WEBVTT 00:00.500 --> 00:03.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% - Today we are pleased to introduce, Lynne Diebel, 00:03.333 --> 00:05.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% as part of the Wisconsin Historical Museum's 00:05.000 --> 00:07.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% History Sandwiched In  lecture series. 00:07.200 --> 00:08.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% The opinions expressed today, 00:08.766 --> 00:11.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:70% are those of the presenters, and are not necessarily 00:11.200 --> 00:13.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% those of the Wisconsin Historical Society, 00:13.633 --> 00:15.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% or the museum's employees. 00:15.733 --> 00:17.766 align:start position:10% line:10% size:50% Lynne Diebel grew up in southern Minnesota, 00:17.766 --> 00:21.066 align:start position:10% line:10% size:67.5% and has lived in Stoughton, Wisconsin since 1974, 00:21.066 --> 00:23.800 align:start position:10% line:10% size:55% with her husband, Bob, and their four children. 00:23.800 --> 00:25.966 align:start position:10% line:10% size:47.5% Her many books, are centered on the landscapes, 00:25.966 --> 00:28.800 align:start position:10% line:10% size:50% and natural world of Wisconsin and Minnesota. 00:28.800 --> 00:30.966 align:start position:10% line:10% size:57.5% Lynne has been canoeing lakes since childhood, 00:30.966 --> 00:33.066 align:start position:10% line:10% size:67.5% and as an adult she learned to canoe whitewater 00:33.066 --> 00:34.500 align:start position:10% line:10% size:40% rivers with Bob. 00:34.500 --> 00:35.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% Together, they've peddled almost 00:35.866 --> 00:38.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% 3,000 miles on the rivers of Minnesota, 00:38.600 --> 00:41.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% while researching their two guide books. 00:41.033 --> 00:43.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5% Here today to discuss her book, "Crossing the Driftless" 00:43.900 --> 00:46.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% please join me in welcoming Lynne Diebel. 00:46.500 --> 00:50.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience applause) 00:52.766 --> 00:53.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% - Well, hi everybody, 00:53.966 --> 00:56.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% and thanks so much for being here. 00:56.266 --> 00:58.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% I'm honored to be part of this program, 00:58.266 --> 01:01.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:67.5% it's a really cool program. As Katie mentioned, 01:01.633 --> 01:04.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% I did grow up in southeastern Minnesota, 01:04.366 --> 01:06.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:15% and... 01:06.300 --> 01:10.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% then living most of my adult life near Madison, 01:10.300 --> 01:12.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% I always spent a lot of time traveling, 01:12.733 --> 01:16.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% back to visit my very large extended family, 01:16.133 --> 01:19.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:32.5% who stayed in southeastern Minnesota. 01:19.433 --> 01:22.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% Which means that, we traveled occasionally 01:22.566 --> 01:25.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% by train or bus, but nearly always by car. 01:25.733 --> 01:29.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% 285 miles, four point five hours to Faribault. 01:29.333 --> 01:30.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% (audience laughs) 01:30.733 --> 01:34.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% 220 miles, three point three hours to Rochester. 01:34.333 --> 01:36.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% And then there was that one bike trip. 01:36.766 --> 01:39.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:20% (laughs) The land that lies between 01:39.900 --> 01:41.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% these two homes of mine, 01:41.533 --> 01:44.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% is known as The Driftless Area. 01:44.033 --> 01:45.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:15% And... 01:45.600 --> 01:49.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% This gives you a visual of what The Driftless, 01:49.100 --> 01:50.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:37.5% is composed of. 01:50.366 --> 01:53.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% Now, some people say that the Driftless 01:53.666 --> 01:58.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:32.5% is partly in, southeastern Minnesota, 01:58.966 --> 02:02.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% but officially, according to Carrie Jennings, 02:02.600 --> 02:06.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% who's the, Wisconsin, or Minnesota 02:06.033 --> 02:11.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% glacial geologist, that area was glaciated. 02:11.100 --> 02:13.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% So we're gonna confine The Driftless 02:13.166 --> 02:15.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% to southwestern Wisconsin, 02:15.666 --> 02:19.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% a teeny bit of northwestern Illinois. 02:19.933 --> 02:21.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:30% But you can, 02:21.166 --> 02:24.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% You'll note, you can see that you are here, 02:24.733 --> 02:27.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% and all the lakes that extend above 02:27.300 --> 02:28.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% the, you are here, 02:28.600 --> 02:30.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% and then look at the Driftless Area, 02:30.333 --> 02:32.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% the rugged land there. 02:32.166 --> 02:34.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% No lakes. Just rivers. 02:34.900 --> 02:36.466 align:start position:10% line:10% size:12.5% So... 02:36.466 --> 02:39.833 align:start position:10% line:10% size:67.5% That's a geological reality 02:39.833 --> 02:45.433 align:start position:10% line:10% size:62.5% that, comes from the fact that, all of this land, 02:45.433 --> 02:49.366 align:start position:10% line:10% size:35% was an ancient Paleozoic Plateau. 02:49.366 --> 02:51.100 align:start position:10% line:10% size:62.5% That's how it was formed. 02:51.100 --> 02:53.033 align:start position:10% line:10% size:47.5% Layers of limestone and sandstone 02:53.033 --> 02:55.033 align:start position:10% line:10% size:75% that were once a vast sea bed, 02:55.033 --> 02:57.866 align:start position:10% line:10% size:40% covering much of the Upper Midwest. 02:57.866 --> 03:02.200 align:start position:10% line:10% size:50% And since that time, the rivers have, 03:02.200 --> 03:05.000 align:start position:10% line:10% size:70% in the Driftless Area, only, 03:05.000 --> 03:07.533 align:start position:10% line:10% size:60% dissected the landscape, 03:07.533 --> 03:09.100 align:start position:10% line:10% size:70% creating those deep valleys, 03:09.100 --> 03:11.966 align:start position:10% line:10% size:45% and those coulée's that are so beautiful 03:11.966 --> 03:13.800 align:start position:10% line:10% size:32.5% in that land. 03:13.800 --> 03:16.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:27.5% They've had millennia to do that, 03:16.766 --> 03:20.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% in the glaciated area, by contrast, 03:20.400 --> 03:23.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% you find lakes, marshes, drumlands, 03:23.500 --> 03:25.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% eskers and post glacial rivers. 03:25.966 --> 03:28.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% So, we have the contrast 03:28.033 --> 03:29.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% between those landscapes. 03:29.366 --> 03:33.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% Now I'll show you where we traveled, 03:33.066 --> 03:35.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:50% and why we traveled. 03:36.566 --> 03:40.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5% How many times has an adventure been launched by a map? 03:40.200 --> 03:43.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% It was in small history center in Minnesota, 03:43.900 --> 03:45.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% that we first thought of traveling back 03:45.866 --> 03:48.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% to our Wisconsin home by canoe. 03:48.400 --> 03:51.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% The center stands near Traverse des Sioux, 03:51.433 --> 03:52.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% a shallow river crossing 03:52.733 --> 03:54.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% on the lower Minnesota river. 03:54.966 --> 03:56.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% And it was a Frenchman who drew the map 03:56.833 --> 03:59.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% that so intrigued us on that hot summer day 03:59.066 --> 04:01.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% that we visited the center. 04:01.133 --> 04:03.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% From 1836 to 1840, 04:03.366 --> 04:05.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% commissioned by the newly created 04:05.033 --> 04:08.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% U.S. Army Corps of Topographical Engineers, 04:08.233 --> 04:11.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:70% astronomer and cartographer, Joseph N. Nicollet, 04:11.800 --> 04:14.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% traveled the rivers and prairies by canoe, 04:14.533 --> 04:17.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% and ox cart to survey the land 04:17.000 --> 04:20.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% that would become Minnesota territory. 04:20.000 --> 04:22.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% Wisconsin territory was surveyed 04:22.900 --> 04:25.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% in the early 1830's, and thus, 04:25.466 --> 04:27.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% Nicollet used that data as well 04:27.666 --> 04:30.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% to create this map, which the war department 04:30.733 --> 04:33.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% published in 1843. 04:33.200 --> 04:36.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% This map became somewhat of a real estate map, 04:36.366 --> 04:38.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% for settlers who were looking 04:38.166 --> 04:41.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% to move into the Minnesota territory. 04:41.033 --> 04:43.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% Because he had not only done the map, 04:43.500 --> 04:46.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% but he did notes on fertility of soil, 04:46.366 --> 04:50.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% on existence of arable land. 04:50.133 --> 04:51.866 align:start position:10% line:10% size:57.5% There's a ton of praire 04:51.866 --> 04:54.266 align:start position:10% line:10% size:65% in southwestern Minnesota. 04:54.266 --> 04:55.866 align:start position:10% line:10% size:67.5% So he observed all of that. 04:55.866 --> 04:57.433 align:start position:10% line:10% size:15% And... 04:57.433 --> 04:58.766 align:start position:10% line:10% size:12.5% He... 04:58.766 --> 05:03.000 align:start position:10% line:10% size:67.5% This map, there's a digital copy I got from here 05:03.000 --> 05:04.866 align:start position:10% line:10% size:65% at the Historical Society. 05:04.866 --> 05:07.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% It was seeing this map that made us decide 05:07.633 --> 05:09.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% to paddle from Faribault, Minnesota, 05:09.866 --> 05:12.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% where my family has a house on Cedar Lake, 05:12.666 --> 05:15.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% and the house is a settler cabin 05:15.333 --> 05:18.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65% that my great grandparents bought in 1883, 05:18.366 --> 05:21.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% back to our Stoughton, Wisconsin home. 05:21.166 --> 05:22.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% There are no roads on Nicollet's map, 05:22.966 --> 05:25.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% as you can see, just rivers. 05:25.733 --> 05:27.333 align:start position:10% line:10% size:37.5% And the Madison Lakes are perched 05:27.333 --> 05:29.166 align:start position:10% line:10% size:47.5% on the very eastern edge of the map. 05:29.166 --> 05:31.766 align:start position:10% line:10% size:42.5% You can see these little dots along 05:31.766 --> 05:35.300 align:start position:10% line:10% size:55% the very eastern edge, at the, you are here. 05:35.300 --> 05:37.766 align:start position:10% line:10% size:55% Some portages required for the trip, of course, 05:37.766 --> 05:38.966 align:start position:10% line:10% size:75% but, people had been traveling 05:38.966 --> 05:40.933 align:start position:10% line:10% size:47.5% paddle-ported style for millennia, 05:40.933 --> 05:43.666 align:start position:10% line:10% size:77.5% and this had long intrigued us. 05:43.666 --> 05:46.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% Bob and I like paddling rivers. 05:46.200 --> 05:50.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80% We wanted to, know what paddling upstream would be like. 05:50.566 --> 05:54.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 05:54.566 --> 05:57.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80% It's one thing to go downstream, quite another to go up. 05:57.433 --> 06:00.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% So he's looking at the map, and he's saying, 06:00.733 --> 06:05.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% "Well, look if we went down the canon, 06:05.166 --> 06:07.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% and then we went down the Mississipi, 06:07.500 --> 06:10.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% the Wyalusing, then we went up the Wisconsin 06:10.866 --> 06:15.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% to Arena, and then up cross the Black Earth Creek 06:15.500 --> 06:17.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% to Cross Plains, portage over 06:17.766 --> 06:20.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% into the Madison Lakes, we could get home." 06:20.600 --> 06:21.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% We live in Stoughton, 06:21.800 --> 06:23.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% which is right on the Yahara River. 06:23.733 --> 06:26.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% So, I said, so what are you suggesting? 06:26.366 --> 06:28.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 06:28.733 --> 06:30.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:30% And he said, 06:30.133 --> 06:33.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% "We can do this! Come on! This is an adventure". 06:33.066 --> 06:35.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% And we had always gone for adventures. 06:36.966 --> 06:40.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% The trip in the end, totaled 359 miles, 06:40.533 --> 06:42.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% that took us 12 days, 06:42.200 --> 06:46.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% and it didn't come out exactly as we had planned, 06:46.566 --> 06:49.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% but, trips on rivers rarely do. 06:51.133 --> 06:54.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% So those are the guidebooks that we did 06:54.533 --> 06:57.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% for Paddling Minnesota, there's a series also 06:57.366 --> 07:00.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% for Paddling Wisconsin done by a fellow named, 07:00.200 --> 07:03.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% Mike Svob, published by Trails Books. 07:03.700 --> 07:08.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% So here's our route, on the Nicollet map. 07:08.000 --> 07:09.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% You can see the... 07:11.400 --> 07:13.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% ...wide part that's Lake Pepin, 07:13.466 --> 07:15.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% that was an exciting part of the trip. 07:16.833 --> 07:19.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% And here's one of the first of the maps 07:19.866 --> 07:22.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% that Bob drew, for the book. 07:22.366 --> 07:25.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% And these are very precise, 07:25.433 --> 07:27.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% he's an engineer, by profession. 07:27.800 --> 07:29.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% But he also is kind of playful, 07:29.766 --> 07:32.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% so he's got all these interesting 07:32.433 --> 07:34.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% little details on the maps. 07:34.500 --> 07:37.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% And each, little drawing tells a story 07:37.933 --> 07:40.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% about that particular episode. 07:40.533 --> 07:42.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% So Faribault to Stoughton. 07:42.766 --> 07:46.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% And this is the first, day of the trip, 07:46.500 --> 07:48.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% we went down the canon, 07:48.066 --> 07:50.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% just about the Mississippi. 07:50.233 --> 07:53.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% To back track just a bit to Cedar Lake, 07:53.466 --> 07:55.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% where we had planned to start, 07:55.800 --> 07:58.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% we didn't end up starting exactly at Cedar Lake; 07:58.200 --> 07:59.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% we started in the town of Faribault 07:59.833 --> 08:01.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% about five miles away. 08:01.333 --> 08:04.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% This is my grandmother in 1898, 08:04.900 --> 08:10.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% and that's an Ojibwa canoe, a birch bark canoe. 08:10.900 --> 08:13.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% And here's the same canoe, 08:13.400 --> 08:18.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% in 2012, Bob renovated it with the help of fellow 08:18.166 --> 08:21.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% up in Woodruff, Ferdie Goode, 08:21.966 --> 08:24.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% who's an expert at these things, 08:24.766 --> 08:26.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% and how to dig the spruce roots 08:26.200 --> 08:28.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% out of the marshes. 08:28.366 --> 08:30.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% This is the canoe we took. 08:30.233 --> 08:33.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% We did not paddle my grandmother's canoe. 08:33.233 --> 08:35.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 08:35.233 --> 08:40.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% This is a Wenonah Jensen hull, Kevlar, 08:40.466 --> 08:43.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% light weight, not very much freeboard though, 08:43.033 --> 08:45.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% so, that's why Lake Pepin got exciting. 08:45.933 --> 08:47.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% And, that's all of our stuff, 08:47.866 --> 08:49.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% please note the portage wheels, 08:49.500 --> 08:50.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% they're important. 08:50.566 --> 08:52.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% (audience member laughs) 08:52.133 --> 08:56.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% Here's a cropped version of the map, 08:56.000 --> 08:58.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% this is following the canon, 08:58.466 --> 09:01.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% this is Nicollet's research. 09:01.000 --> 09:04.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% He also called it the Lahontan River. 09:06.633 --> 09:09.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% The word canon comes from 09:09.300 --> 09:11.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% bastardization of the French, 09:11.800 --> 09:15.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% which was, riviere de cano, 09:15.700 --> 09:18.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% and that's, or o cano. 09:18.600 --> 09:20.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% It's river of canoes, 09:20.600 --> 09:23.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% because there a lot of canoes on the river. 09:23.400 --> 09:26.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% And, it got changed to canon and lots of people 09:26.266 --> 09:28.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% think that it has to do with warfare, 09:28.233 --> 09:29.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:37.5% but it doesn't. 09:31.633 --> 09:34.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% On our way down the canon, 09:34.166 --> 09:37.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% the portage wheels are in the front there. 09:38.433 --> 09:41.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% If you look at the bluff along the canon, 09:41.200 --> 09:44.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% you see a cross section of the Paleozoic Plateau. 09:44.666 --> 09:47.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% At the bottom, St. Peter Sandstone, 09:47.500 --> 09:50.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% and then a thin layer of Glendwood's Shale, 09:50.166 --> 09:53.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:67.5% topped off with Platteville Limestone at this point. 09:53.366 --> 09:55.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% There are other layers in other areas, 09:55.600 --> 09:58.833 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% but this is what was left there. 09:59.800 --> 10:01.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% During settlement times, 10:01.433 --> 10:04.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% a southern Minnesota wheat boom led to numerous 10:04.200 --> 10:07.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% water powered mills to grind the grain. 10:07.066 --> 10:10.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% Local historians say that at least 17 gristmill's 10:10.700 --> 10:13.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% operated on the canon in the 19th century. 10:13.833 --> 10:15.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% It's not that long a river. 10:15.666 --> 10:18.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% Leaving behind ruins like the Archibald Mill 10:18.566 --> 10:20.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% at Dundas, which is a really 10:20.800 --> 10:23.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% cool looking old building. 10:23.200 --> 10:26.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% Nothing's being done to it. 10:26.000 --> 10:29.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% Here's a little cross section of history. 10:29.100 --> 10:30.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% At the sight of Scotts Mill, 10:30.900 --> 10:34.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% does anybody recognize what that's the shape of? 10:34.300 --> 10:36.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% - That Goddess, I can't remember... 10:36.800 --> 10:38.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:20% - Shiva. - [Lynne] Shiva! Thank you! 10:38.666 --> 10:40.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:37.5% Thank you, yea. 10:41.566 --> 10:42.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% Nearby are the remains 10:42.800 --> 10:45.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% of a dry laid, of bridge abutments. 10:45.400 --> 10:48.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% But, In the 1970's, a St. Olaf College, 10:48.333 --> 10:51.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% art student carved this carving of Shiva 10:51.633 --> 10:55.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% on the bluff face, merging several layers 10:55.033 --> 10:56.833 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% of prehistory and history, 10:56.833 --> 11:00.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% the Paleozoic era stone, that was his material, 11:00.333 --> 11:05.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% Glacial era erosion, 19th century industry, 11:05.233 --> 11:09.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% and ancient eastern religious iconography. 11:09.266 --> 11:13.366 align:start position:10% line:10% size:52.5% So, it's also a great sight for young people 11:13.366 --> 11:14.900 align:start position:10% line:10% size:42.5% to try to deface. 11:17.633 --> 11:19.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% Early 20th century bridges, 11:19.300 --> 11:20.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% add another layer of history, 11:20.900 --> 11:23.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% I'm very fond of these bridges, 11:23.266 --> 11:25.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% these truss bridges, because, 11:25.733 --> 11:29.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% my childhood was spent driving over those. 11:30.933 --> 11:33.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% The waters of the canon river, 11:33.266 --> 11:35.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% flowing over a dam at the site 11:35.300 --> 11:37.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:32.5% in Northfield Minnesota once powered 11:37.233 --> 11:40.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% the 1856 Ames Mill. 11:40.500 --> 11:41.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% This current structure, 11:41.700 --> 11:43.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% which is almost 100 years old, 11:43.333 --> 11:45.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% now serves no practical purpose, 11:45.866 --> 11:48.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% except to block the passage of fish. 11:48.966 --> 11:50.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% Today the Multi Mill company, 11:50.966 --> 11:53.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% which has owned Ames Mill since 1927, 11:53.966 --> 11:56.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% produces cereals like Chocolate Malt-O-Meal, 11:56.633 --> 11:59.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% and Coco Roos, in the vintage mill building, 11:59.166 --> 12:01.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% the original, vintage mill building, 12:01.200 --> 12:03.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% but not with water power. 12:03.100 --> 12:05.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% Post Holdings recently bought the company 12:05.966 --> 12:08.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% for 1.15 billion. 12:08.333 --> 12:10.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% So, it may change. They may tear it down. 12:13.366 --> 12:17.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:32.5% Now this is a hyro-dam on the canon, 12:17.600 --> 12:19.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% a 60 foot high, hydro-dam, 12:19.600 --> 12:20.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% that was quite a portage, 12:20.700 --> 12:22.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% 'cause you go straight down. 12:24.633 --> 12:28.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% It impounds a lake called, Lake Byllesby. 12:28.766 --> 12:29.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% And this is the beginning 12:29.866 --> 12:31.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% of the portage wheel story. 12:32.966 --> 12:35.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% At the downstream end of Byllesby, 12:35.133 --> 12:37.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% we float quietly for a moment to watch laughing, 12:37.800 --> 12:39.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% shouting teenagers jump from a bluff 12:39.766 --> 12:41.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% into the water far below. 12:41.600 --> 12:43.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% And then we land a portage. 12:43.466 --> 12:44.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:50% Once again the canoe 12:44.666 --> 12:46.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% makes the overland journey on it's wheels, 12:46.600 --> 12:50.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% which wobble ominously across the parking lot, 12:50.400 --> 12:51.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% and stubbornly refused to roll 12:51.933 --> 12:54.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% when reached the grass. 12:54.133 --> 12:55.966 align:start position:10% line:10% size:40% A few years ago, Bob tried to sell 12:55.966 --> 12:57.833 align:start position:10% line:10% size:50% these portage wheels on Craigslist, 12:57.833 --> 12:59.100 align:start position:10% line:10% size:42.5% (audience laughs) 12:59.100 --> 13:01.900 align:start position:10% line:10% size:62.5% He was asking 15 dollars. 13:01.900 --> 13:04.866 align:start position:10% line:10% size:50% A young man drove 25 miles to look at them, 13:04.866 --> 13:06.333 align:start position:10% line:10% size:57.5% and offered 10 dollars. 13:06.333 --> 13:07.833 align:start position:10% line:10% size:42.5% (audience laughs) 13:07.833 --> 13:10.266 align:start position:10% line:10% size:80% Bob was adamant about his price. 13:10.266 --> 13:11.933 align:start position:10% line:10% size:32.5% The young man wouldn't budge either, 13:11.933 --> 13:14.033 align:start position:10% line:10% size:42.5% and he drove away without buying. 13:14.033 --> 13:15.666 align:start position:10% line:10% size:37.5% Which is why we don't have a better 13:15.666 --> 13:17.300 align:start position:10% line:10% size:70% set of portage wheels today. 13:17.300 --> 13:20.900 align:start position:10% line:10% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 13:20.900 --> 13:25.000 align:start position:10% line:10% size:70% So, moving on to Lake Pepin! 13:25.000 --> 13:26.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% And you'll have to read the book, 13:26.533 --> 13:28.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% if you want to know the story that's associated 13:28.600 --> 13:30.833 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% with this particular drawing. 13:30.833 --> 13:36.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65% This is a bird's eye-view, well sorta bird's eye, 13:36.133 --> 13:40.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% it's from, Great River Bluff State Park, 13:40.100 --> 13:42.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% of the Mississippi. 13:42.000 --> 13:43.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% And it gives you a sense of how 13:43.600 --> 13:46.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% the Mississippi has changed since the 1930's 13:46.300 --> 13:51.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% when it was, they attempted to corral it 13:51.166 --> 13:53.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% with the lock and dam system. 13:53.433 --> 13:55.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% So, what you see in the foreground 13:55.200 --> 13:58.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% is the, channel, the main channel, 13:58.200 --> 14:01.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% that's officially called the 9-Foot Channel, 14:01.366 --> 14:05.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% but is also dredged to twelve feet in some areas. 14:05.533 --> 14:07.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% And behind that, the backwaters, 14:07.466 --> 14:09.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% and that gives you a sense 14:09.400 --> 14:11.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% of what the river looked like before 14:11.366 --> 14:15.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% it was impounded and before it was dredged. 14:15.233 --> 14:17.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% It was a very complex system 14:17.033 --> 14:20.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:67.5% and it got really confusing for early explorers. 14:23.533 --> 14:25.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% This one's another story. 14:25.400 --> 14:28.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% You can see in the foreground we have a truck. 14:28.766 --> 14:31.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% That one we won't go into either. 14:31.766 --> 14:33.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 14:33.566 --> 14:35.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% So we had, this was in 2009, 14:35.700 --> 14:36.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% that we did the trip. 14:36.966 --> 14:41.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% And, we had a cellphone, it wasn't a smart phone, 14:41.433 --> 14:43.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% we didn't have internet access, 14:43.400 --> 14:45.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% and we decided that on the Mississippi, 14:45.833 --> 14:48.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% that we had traveled so many times by road, 14:48.366 --> 14:49.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% it would be fun to stay 14:49.633 --> 14:51.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% at some of the little places along the way, 14:51.533 --> 14:53.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% that were right in the river towns. 14:54.566 --> 14:57.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% But we were able to reach our son, Greg, 14:57.366 --> 15:01.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% who was dubbed our river concierge, 15:01.000 --> 15:03.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% and he would check, we'd say, 15:03.300 --> 15:05.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% "Ah, we're gonna get to Alma tonight", 15:05.800 --> 15:08.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% and he'd call back and say, 15:08.133 --> 15:11.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% well the Alma Hotel, can put you up, 15:11.433 --> 15:14.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:30% and I made a reservation for you. 15:14.000 --> 15:17.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% And so, we went to Alma. 15:17.566 --> 15:20.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% And, this is the second chapter 15:20.500 --> 15:22.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% of the portage wheel story. 15:22.866 --> 15:26.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% Half way down mainstreet to our night's lodging, 15:26.233 --> 15:27.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% and soon after we dropped the canoe rig 15:27.966 --> 15:29.833 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% over a steep curb cut, 15:29.833 --> 15:31.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% our portage wheels being wobbling 15:31.500 --> 15:33.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% in a dramatically new fashion, 15:33.433 --> 15:35.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% not a good thing. 15:35.000 --> 15:36.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% At the Alma Hotel, 15:36.466 --> 15:38.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% we park the canoe on the sidewalk. 15:38.633 --> 15:40.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% Still wearing his lifejacket, 15:40.100 --> 15:42.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% Bob walks up to the bar, 15:42.433 --> 15:44.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% where five patrons in various stages 15:44.666 --> 15:46.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% of Sunday afternoon inebriation 15:46.633 --> 15:48.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% are seated on barstools. 15:48.900 --> 15:52.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% "Our son called about us getting a room tonight", 15:52.100 --> 15:54.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% Bob says to the barkeep, 15:54.000 --> 15:56.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% "You don't need a lifejacket in here," 15:56.500 --> 15:59.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65% offers one of the patrons. (Lynn and audience laugh) 15:59.800 --> 16:01.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% "I don't know about that, 16:01.133 --> 16:03.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% our canoe's right outside on the sidewalk." 16:03.633 --> 16:05.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:12.5% "Oh!" 16:05.066 --> 16:06.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% Everyone including the barkeep, 16:06.466 --> 16:08.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% hurries out the door to see the canoe. 16:08.100 --> 16:10.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience laughing) 16:10.500 --> 16:11.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% "You ought to get a motor," 16:11.966 --> 16:13.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% suggests one thoughtfully... 16:13.900 --> 16:15.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 16:15.233 --> 16:17.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% ...adding that he works on a dredging rig. 16:17.766 --> 16:19.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% We chat for a bit about the hazards 16:19.566 --> 16:21.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% of canoeing the big river. 16:21.333 --> 16:24.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% "So, about the room?" Bob asks the barkeep. 16:24.333 --> 16:26.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% "You should probably see it first." 16:26.966 --> 16:28.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% Up the stairs from the bar, 16:28.400 --> 16:31.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% we see why she said that, as the place is being renovated. 16:31.466 --> 16:33.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% There's no light in the upstairs hall, 16:33.000 --> 16:34.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% paint is peeling from the walls, 16:34.900 --> 16:36.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% and there's one shared bathroom. 16:36.733 --> 16:38.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% But the room and bed are clean and comfortable. 16:38.966 --> 16:42.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% We say yes and follow her downstairs to the bar. 16:42.100 --> 16:44.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% "How much do we owe you for the room?" I ask. 16:44.400 --> 16:48.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% "Oh, it's very expensive, about 297 dollars," 16:48.366 --> 16:50.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% interjects the dredger. 16:50.200 --> 16:52.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% " 22 dollars and and 16 cents; 16:52.600 --> 16:53.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% that includes the tax," 16:53.733 --> 16:55.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% the barkeep concludes with a grin. 16:55.600 --> 16:57.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% "It's just a sleeping room." 16:57.433 --> 16:58.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% When we lock the canoe 16:58.600 --> 17:00.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% to the dumpster behind the hotel, 17:00.366 --> 17:03.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% Bob inspects the recalcitrant portage wheels. 17:03.766 --> 17:05.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% One metal support has buckled so much 17:05.800 --> 17:07.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% that another bounce down a curb 17:07.300 --> 17:08.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% will render the wheels useless 17:08.766 --> 17:10.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:32.5% and the other support is twisted. 17:10.866 --> 17:12.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% "So what'll we do about the portage 17:12.866 --> 17:15.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% from Black Earth Creek?" I ask. 17:15.066 --> 17:16.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% "We'll figure that out when we get there. 17:16.733 --> 17:17.833 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% Let's get dinner." 17:17.833 --> 17:19.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience laughing) 17:19.633 --> 17:21.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% On our evening walking tour of Alma, 17:21.466 --> 17:22.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:50% we have a tasty meal 17:22.566 --> 17:24.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% at Kate and Gracie's restaurant, 17:24.366 --> 17:26.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% which is no longer there, sadly. 17:26.733 --> 17:27.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% A session at the laundromat, 17:27.933 --> 17:29.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% and a trip to the pier downstream 17:29.833 --> 17:32.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% to scout tomorrow's exit route. 17:32.500 --> 17:33.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% As an afterthought, 17:33.766 --> 17:35.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% we carry the wheels to a municipal trash can 17:35.933 --> 17:37.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% and drop them in. (audience laughs) 17:37.566 --> 17:39.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% He should have taken the 10 dollars. 17:39.600 --> 17:42.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% (Lynn and audience laugh) 17:44.833 --> 17:46.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:20% Ah, yes! 17:46.633 --> 17:48.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% Alright, so, this is a dredging rig. 17:48.666 --> 17:50.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% And this is what they used to scoop out, 17:50.666 --> 17:52.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% and then they have an adjoining barge 17:52.666 --> 17:54.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% that they pile the sand, 17:54.700 --> 17:57.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:75% and then they move it to other places on the river. 17:57.300 --> 18:00.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% And they pile it in huge mounds 18:00.100 --> 18:01.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% in various places. 18:01.633 --> 18:03.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% They build islands with it, 18:03.033 --> 18:04.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% they do all sorts of stuff, 18:04.400 --> 18:07.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% because the sand is always moving downstream, 18:07.233 --> 18:09.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% and refilling the channel. 18:09.600 --> 18:10.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% So this is where our dredger 18:10.933 --> 18:14.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% was bound to be working. 18:16.000 --> 18:18.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% Just on that note, on the river 18:18.366 --> 18:20.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% there's a continual tension between nature 18:20.633 --> 18:22.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:40% and man's works. 18:22.000 --> 18:24.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% The river's power, reminds us that the things 18:24.400 --> 18:26.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% we build in it's floodplain, 18:26.300 --> 18:29.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% the towns, the levees, the farms, etcetera, 18:29.233 --> 18:32.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% are there only as long as the river permits. 18:32.366 --> 18:34.366 align:start position:10% line:10% size:45% Congress built the lock and dam system 18:34.366 --> 18:37.266 align:start position:10% line:10% size:35% for commercial navigation in the 1930's, 18:37.266 --> 18:38.900 align:start position:10% line:10% size:55% not for flood control, 18:38.900 --> 18:42.333 align:start position:10% line:10% size:50% but the Army Corp of Enginners River Commission, 18:42.333 --> 18:45.066 align:start position:10% line:10% size:52.5% has been messing with the Mississippi's flow 18:45.066 --> 18:47.766 align:start position:10% line:10% size:80% and floodplains for much longer, 18:47.766 --> 18:49.933 align:start position:10% line:10% size:75% building levees and wing dams. 18:49.933 --> 18:52.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% In 1883, Mark Twain wrote, 18:52.900 --> 18:54.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% "One who knows the Mississippi, 18:54.800 --> 18:58.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% will promptly aver, not aloud but to himself, 18:58.033 --> 19:00.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% that if thousand River Commissions, 19:00.333 --> 19:03.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% with all the mines of the world at their back, 19:03.200 --> 19:05.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% cannot tame that lawless stream, 19:05.500 --> 19:07.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% cannot curb it, or confine it, 19:07.366 --> 19:10.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% cannot say to it, go here, or go there, 19:10.266 --> 19:11.833 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% and make it obey; 19:11.833 --> 19:15.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% cannot save a shore which it has sentenced; 19:15.533 --> 19:18.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% cannot bar its path with an obstruction 19:18.166 --> 19:19.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% which it will not tear down, 19:19.566 --> 19:22.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% dance over, and laugh at." 19:22.366 --> 19:24.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% That was from, Life on the Mississippi. 19:24.800 --> 19:26.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% Fortunately there were those, 19:26.433 --> 19:28.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% who understood this truth. 19:28.566 --> 19:32.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% And in 1924, under heavy pressure, 19:32.066 --> 19:35.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% from the newly formed, Izaak Walton League, 19:35.300 --> 19:37.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% Congress had established the upper Mississippi, 19:37.900 --> 19:40.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% National Wildlife and Fish refuge. 19:40.866 --> 19:43.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% And that's 261 miles of river, 19:43.533 --> 19:45.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% between the foot of Lake Pepin 19:45.100 --> 19:47.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% and Rock Island, Illinois. 19:47.766 --> 19:51.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% No new levees there from now on. 19:51.066 --> 19:53.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% The flood of 1965, however, 19:53.600 --> 19:55.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% crusted at about 20 feet, 19:55.300 --> 19:58.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% mocking most existing levees anyway. 20:00.766 --> 20:04.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% Our fourth day, was a four dam day, 20:04.700 --> 20:07.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% Alma, Whitman, Winona and Trempealeau. 20:07.533 --> 20:10.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% We portaged two of them, locked through two. 20:10.800 --> 20:15.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% We passed the confluences of the Zumbro, 20:15.266 --> 20:16.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:32.5% and the White Water, those are two 20:16.966 --> 20:19.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% lovely paddling streams in Minnesota, 20:19.400 --> 20:20.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% and the quirky boat houses 20:20.733 --> 20:22.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% on Winona's, Latsch Island. 20:24.300 --> 20:26.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:12.5% We... (Lynn and audience laugh) 20:26.300 --> 20:28.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% Bob likes to take a nap in the canoe. 20:28.433 --> 20:30.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% And he'll have me paddle 20:30.300 --> 20:32.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% so that he can kind of stretch out. 20:32.300 --> 20:34.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% That's him napping. 20:35.500 --> 20:40.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% So we ended the next day, at Genoa, 20:40.566 --> 20:43.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% taking us past the mouth of the Trempealeau, 20:43.866 --> 20:47.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% the Black, the La Cross, the Root and Coon Creek, 20:47.333 --> 20:51.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% as well as visiting glorious flocks of Pelicans, 20:51.766 --> 20:53.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% to spend the night at Genoa, 20:53.333 --> 20:55.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% in another riverside in. 20:55.500 --> 20:57.633 align:start position:10% line:10% size:37.5% We were getting spoiled at this point. 20:57.633 --> 21:01.933 align:start position:10% line:10% size:55% And at Genoa, this was the sweetest thing, 21:01.933 --> 21:04.066 align:start position:10% line:10% size:75% the innkeeper, whose name was, 21:04.066 --> 21:06.100 align:start position:10% line:10% size:52.5% Ann Zebolio Meerhead, 21:06.100 --> 21:09.000 align:start position:10% line:10% size:47.5% was standing on the side of the river, 21:09.000 --> 21:12.033 align:start position:10% line:10% size:70% on the riprapped river bank, 21:12.033 --> 21:14.366 align:start position:10% line:10% size:42.5% where, just below where the train tracks 21:14.366 --> 21:17.100 align:start position:10% line:10% size:62.5% go along the river there. 21:17.100 --> 21:20.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% She was waving a dishtowel, to signal, 21:20.100 --> 21:23.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% where we should go under the tracks. 21:23.066 --> 21:25.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% We could see her from really far away, 21:25.533 --> 21:27.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% she's standing there waving the dishtowel, 21:27.866 --> 21:30.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% and saying, "Ok, you go through there." 21:30.300 --> 21:32.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% And then she and her husband met us 21:32.300 --> 21:33.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% at the landing that was underneath 21:33.800 --> 21:35.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:50% the railroad tracks, 21:35.266 --> 21:40.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% and helped us carry our stuff to the motel. 21:40.066 --> 21:42.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% And that was one of the pluses 21:42.800 --> 21:44.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% of having a river concierge. 21:44.566 --> 21:46.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience laughing) 21:46.533 --> 21:49.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% Next day we passed the Bad Axe, the Upper Iowa, 21:49.433 --> 21:51.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% and the elegant Black Hawk Bridge 21:51.333 --> 21:53.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% at Lansing, Iowa. 21:53.366 --> 21:58.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% And camped on an island, number-- 21:58.300 --> 22:00.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% We're going through the barge traffic, 22:00.800 --> 22:03.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% which I don't recommend hanging out with. 22:03.533 --> 22:06.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% Camped on island number 166, 22:06.100 --> 22:09.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% just upstream of Prairie Dasheen, Wisconsin. 22:09.366 --> 22:11.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% Just to back up for a moment. 22:11.866 --> 22:13.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:37.5% That is a lock. 22:13.533 --> 22:15.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% And you can see that they will lock 22:15.633 --> 22:17.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% through any one canoe, 22:17.900 --> 22:20.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% if the one canoe is the only one 22:20.000 --> 22:21.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% that wants to get in. 22:21.733 --> 22:23.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% One canoe gets to lock through. 22:23.200 --> 22:26.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% It's big enough to hold an enormous barge. 22:26.800 --> 22:28.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% And so we're sitting there, you know, 22:28.700 --> 22:30.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% you just hold on to the rope, 22:30.233 --> 22:32.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% you don't tie up because you drop, 22:32.100 --> 22:34.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% (laughs) as you're going down. 22:34.166 --> 22:35.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% And so you just let the rope 22:35.633 --> 22:37.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% slide through your hands. 22:38.266 --> 22:39.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% So there's all the barge traffic 22:39.866 --> 22:41.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% and there was plenty of it. 22:41.166 --> 22:46.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% Here we are, at island number 166. 22:49.566 --> 22:51.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% And on the seventh day, 22:51.300 --> 22:53.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% and that sounds a little biblical, 22:53.300 --> 22:54.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 22:54.766 --> 22:56.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:25% it wasn't. 22:56.000 --> 22:58.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% After floating past Praire Dasheen, 22:58.233 --> 23:01.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% we turned left and head up to Wisconsin. 23:01.300 --> 23:03.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% Now, has anyone here heard 23:03.133 --> 23:05.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% of the Wyalusing River? 23:06.300 --> 23:08.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:10% Yes. 23:08.066 --> 23:11.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% - Yea, we camp at Wyalusing State Park. 23:11.133 --> 23:12.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% - Wyalusing State Park. 23:12.333 --> 23:15.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% Well there's a made up Wyalusing River, 23:15.000 --> 23:17.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% it's actually a historic river. 23:17.533 --> 23:20.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% What direction does the Wisconsin River flow? 23:21.533 --> 23:23.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:30% - Southwest. 23:23.066 --> 23:24.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% - Southwest. Right. 23:24.933 --> 23:27.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% Has it always? This is a trick question. 23:29.166 --> 23:31.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% (audience chattering and laughing) 23:31.100 --> 23:34.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:75% That's the right answer is no! (Lynne and audience laugh) 23:35.033 --> 23:36.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% Go back almost a million years 23:36.900 --> 23:39.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% before the most recent glaciación, 23:39.800 --> 23:43.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% which ended about 12,000 years ago. 23:43.333 --> 23:46.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% The evidence lies along Wisconsin highway 16, 23:46.900 --> 23:48.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:40% near Bridgeport. 23:48.066 --> 23:51.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% And you can see Bridgeport on this map. 23:51.066 --> 23:54.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% Where the highway rides the high bedrock bench 23:54.166 --> 23:56.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% called the Bridgeport Terrace. 23:56.500 --> 23:58.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% And this is once place 23:58.466 --> 24:01.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% where there is glaciación in the Driftless Area. 24:01.766 --> 24:03.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:37.5% Evidence of it. 24:03.166 --> 24:06.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% According to Wisconsin geologist, Eric Seacarson, 24:06.200 --> 24:09.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% the eastward tilt of that Bridgeport Terrace, 24:09.266 --> 24:11.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% plus the narrowing of the river valley, 24:11.566 --> 24:14.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:67.5% as it nears it's confluence with the Mississippi, 24:14.633 --> 24:16.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% and the shape of the valley wall 24:16.166 --> 24:17.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% at the confluence, suggests 24:17.966 --> 24:20.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% that as recently as 800,000 year ago, 24:20.966 --> 24:25.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% the Wisconsin flowed east, probably all the way 24:25.000 --> 24:27.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% to the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. 24:27.200 --> 24:29.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% And, there's a lot of geological research 24:29.533 --> 24:31.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% being done on that right now. 24:31.266 --> 24:32.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:50% Finding the markers, 24:32.900 --> 24:37.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% the geological markers of Wisconsin's path east. 24:40.833 --> 24:43.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% Paddling upstream around the sinuous sandbars 24:43.900 --> 24:46.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% of the lower Wisconsin took some learning. 24:46.466 --> 24:52.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% And, this our route on the next day between 24:52.233 --> 24:55.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% that sandbar near the Kickapoo, 24:55.066 --> 24:58.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% the mouth of the Kickapoo in Coumbe island. 24:58.233 --> 25:00.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% This is one of the techniques 25:00.333 --> 25:03.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:67.5% we used for going upstream. (Lynne and audience laugh) 25:03.300 --> 25:05.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% And it was actually a nice thing, 25:05.133 --> 25:06.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:30% because, you probably also notice 25:06.700 --> 25:09.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% that I wear the same thing, in every picture, 25:09.566 --> 25:11.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% and that is true, 25:11.266 --> 25:14.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% I wore the same clothes for 12 days. 25:14.166 --> 25:17.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% But going upstream is quite possible, 25:17.233 --> 25:19.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% we were able to go about two miles an hour, 25:19.433 --> 25:22.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% upstream, against about a two to three 25:22.100 --> 25:23.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% mile an hour current. 25:23.700 --> 25:26.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% And, yea we got tired of sitting, 25:26.666 --> 25:28.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% because we'd be paddling 12 hours a day. 25:28.966 --> 25:31.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% And so, we periodically towed the thing, 25:31.700 --> 25:32.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:37.5% in the shallow. 25:32.800 --> 25:35.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% The water was kinda low that year. 25:35.133 --> 25:39.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% This is the bridge near Lone Rock. 25:39.233 --> 25:42.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% And, that, it's a steel through truss bridge. 25:42.866 --> 25:45.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% And that means that, the trusses form a box 25:45.833 --> 25:48.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% through which the traffic drives. 25:48.033 --> 25:50.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% It's another one of those shapes 25:50.600 --> 25:52.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% that I find so appealing, 25:52.166 --> 25:53.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% and I think it echoes the shapes 25:53.866 --> 25:55.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% of the hill of The Driftless. 25:56.766 --> 25:58.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% And all of those bridges 25:58.566 --> 26:02.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% have that lovely curved arch on top. 26:05.866 --> 26:08.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% This is the route between 26:08.000 --> 26:11.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% Coumbe Island and Lone Rock. 26:11.100 --> 26:14.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65% Notice the drawing because you'll see that again. 26:14.900 --> 26:16.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% (audience member laughs) 26:16.066 --> 26:18.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% Okay not everyone floats in canoes 26:18.533 --> 26:20.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% down on the Wisconsin. (Lynne and audience laugh) 26:20.566 --> 26:22.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% It was the fourth of July weekend, 26:22.866 --> 26:25.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% and we noted that all the way 26:25.566 --> 26:26.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% down the Mississippi, 26:26.800 --> 26:29.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% we hadn't seen a single other canoe. 26:29.166 --> 26:30.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% Everybody we met and talked with, 26:30.666 --> 26:32.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% and that was a lot of people, 26:32.100 --> 26:33.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% they were all on dry land. 26:33.966 --> 26:35.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% But in the four days it took us 26:35.800 --> 26:37.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% to reach the Arena landing, we met hundreds 26:37.966 --> 26:39.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% of people floating down the Wisconsin 26:39.666 --> 26:41.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% on the July fourth weekend. 26:41.733 --> 26:43.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% And most told us, 26:43.266 --> 26:44.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% we were going the wrong way. 26:44.700 --> 26:47.233 align:start position:10% line:10% size:47.5% (audience laughing) 26:47.233 --> 26:50.600 align:start position:10% line:10% size:57.5% Be a lot easier people! (Lynne and audience laugh) 26:50.600 --> 26:52.866 align:start position:10% line:10% size:50% So here's where that sketch came from. 26:52.866 --> 26:54.900 align:start position:10% line:10% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 26:54.900 --> 26:56.100 align:start position:10% line:10% size:75% They weren't given any advice, 26:56.100 --> 26:57.833 align:start position:10% line:10% size:35% they were just having a great time. 26:57.833 --> 27:00.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% They had actually built that raft in the morning. 27:00.633 --> 27:03.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 27:03.933 --> 27:05.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% So we paddled in place for awhile 27:05.766 --> 27:07.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% chatting with them and they were just, 27:07.266 --> 27:10.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% they were great kids. They were really funny. 27:10.233 --> 27:12.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% I know, the couch is a great touch. 27:12.600 --> 27:14.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience laughing) 27:14.333 --> 27:16.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% So, day four on the Wisconsin 27:16.566 --> 27:20.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% took us to just down stream of Arena. 27:20.833 --> 27:22.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:15% And... 27:22.500 --> 27:24.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:27.5% That was... 27:24.700 --> 27:26.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% Passing the highway 23 bridge 27:26.800 --> 27:28.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% over to Spring Green. 27:28.433 --> 27:31.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% and, this is Frank Lloyd Wright territory, 27:31.466 --> 27:33.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% as many of you, I'm sure know. 27:36.133 --> 27:39.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% Wrightson Taliesin is in the hills 27:39.233 --> 27:41.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% just south of the river here, 27:41.400 --> 27:43.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% and it's architectural style deeply rooted 27:43.700 --> 27:45.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% in the landscape of The Driftless, 27:45.466 --> 27:48.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% echoes the shapes and forms of these bluff faces, 27:48.800 --> 27:51.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% their outcroppings, and the low rounded hills 27:51.833 --> 27:53.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% that rise above them. 27:53.333 --> 27:55.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% An organic expression of this land 27:55.166 --> 27:56.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% where the architect grew up. 27:56.900 --> 27:58.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% The materials and shapes derived 27:58.700 --> 27:59.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% from the landscape, 27:59.966 --> 28:02.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% and at times from the riverscape, 28:02.533 --> 28:04.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% Wright built with Cambrian sandstones, 28:04.966 --> 28:06.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% and dolomites quarried from the hills 28:06.933 --> 28:10.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% of the Driftless and he mixed Wisconsin River 28:10.233 --> 28:13.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% sand into his plaster. 28:13.200 --> 28:15.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% Which is a nice connection. 28:15.000 --> 28:16.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% This photograph was taken from Bobs, 28:16.900 --> 28:18.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% it used to be called Bob's Riverside, 28:18.533 --> 28:21.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% now it's just Riverside Landing, 28:21.166 --> 28:23.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% which is a, they have really great burgers, 28:23.633 --> 28:25.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% so we stopped for a burger there 28:25.033 --> 28:26.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% and went up on the deck 28:26.966 --> 28:32.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% and I love this view of the Wisconsin. 28:32.333 --> 28:34.133 align:start position:10% line:10% size:60% It is my favorite river. 28:35.233 --> 28:37.266 align:start position:10% line:10% size:75% Another view of the Wisconsin, 28:37.266 --> 28:40.333 align:start position:10% line:10% size:52.5% it's taken from Ferry Bluff and Cactus Bluff, 28:40.333 --> 28:43.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% so that you can see off in the distance, 28:43.766 --> 28:45.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% the highest point in the Driftless, 28:45.466 --> 28:46.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:50% which is Blue Mound. 28:46.900 --> 28:50.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% Can you see it on the horizon? 28:50.100 --> 28:51.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:7.5% Ok. 28:51.600 --> 28:53.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:30% This is a... 28:53.800 --> 28:58.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% A point that's about six miles upstream 28:58.266 --> 29:01.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% of where we took out at Arena. 29:03.233 --> 29:07.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% So, which brings us to the final chapter 29:07.200 --> 29:10.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% of the portage wheel story. 29:10.200 --> 29:12.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% And, at this point we had reached 29:12.333 --> 29:14.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% the Arena landing, but we were trying to find, 29:14.966 --> 29:16.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% there are about three different outlets 29:16.966 --> 29:18.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% for Blue Mound Creek, 29:18.733 --> 29:21.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% which Black Earth feeds. 29:21.100 --> 29:23.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% And we were trying to find 29:23.066 --> 29:26.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% the mouth of that creek. 29:26.100 --> 29:28.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% It wasn't easy the water was low. 29:28.533 --> 29:30.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% Today it isn't easy to find the mouth 29:30.200 --> 29:31.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% of that cold creek again. 29:31.933 --> 29:34.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% The chameleon shape of the Wisconsin sandbar 29:34.466 --> 29:36.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% may be the reason, as the sandbar 29:36.866 --> 29:39.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% is always, always changing. 29:39.100 --> 29:41.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% So instead of searching for the confluence, 29:41.166 --> 29:43.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% we look for a proper place to camp, 29:43.766 --> 29:45.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% choosing a spot on a high sandbar, 29:45.900 --> 29:48.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% facing the back channel with scattered thickets 29:48.433 --> 29:52.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% of willow on vast expanses of open sand, 29:52.033 --> 29:54.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% so hot in the afternoon sun that it is hard 29:54.833 --> 29:56.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% to walk barefoot. 29:56.533 --> 29:58.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% That we cannot see the main channel from here 29:58.900 --> 30:02.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% makes our camp feel secluded, somehow wilder 30:02.300 --> 30:04.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% than our wide-open tenting grounds 30:04.133 --> 30:06.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% of the last few days. 30:06.133 --> 30:08.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% On the wet mud flats that abut the sandbar 30:08.833 --> 30:10.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% on the shore side, 30:10.266 --> 30:12.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% trails of sandhill crane tracks, 30:12.366 --> 30:15.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% each footprint shaped like the letter T, 30:15.500 --> 30:18.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% form intricate patterns of line and curves, 30:18.700 --> 30:20.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% and loops, frequently punctuated 30:20.800 --> 30:23.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% by dried droppings. 30:23.000 --> 30:25.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% As it turns out, we are indeed camped 30:25.266 --> 30:27.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% at the confluence, or perhaps more accurately, 30:27.933 --> 30:30.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% at one of several points where Blue Mounds Creek 30:30.233 --> 30:32.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% drains into the Wisconsin. 30:32.500 --> 30:34.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% By studying the shoreline, Bob concludes, 30:34.633 --> 30:36.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% that one branch of Blue Mounds Creek 30:36.400 --> 30:38.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% flows into Wisconsin, under a tangle 30:38.533 --> 30:40.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% of undergrowth that is just across 30:40.166 --> 30:42.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% the back channel from our camp. 30:42.800 --> 30:44.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% To confirm this, we paddle across 30:44.566 --> 30:46.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% the narrow channel, and step out of the canoe 30:46.700 --> 30:47.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:37.5% into the water. 30:47.966 --> 30:49.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:50% It is clear and icy. 30:49.566 --> 30:52.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% We have discovered Blue Mounds Creek. 30:52.233 --> 30:55.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% Back in camp, we bathed in the Wisconsin, 30:55.033 --> 30:56.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% lying full length on our backs 30:56.266 --> 30:58.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% on the sandy bottom of the shallows. 30:58.466 --> 31:00.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% My hair floats on the surface, Medusa-like, 31:00.933 --> 31:02.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% I had longer hair then, 31:02.533 --> 31:05.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% as I slowly cool off and relax. 31:05.433 --> 31:08.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% Later we dine on oranges, bananas, gouda cheese 31:08.333 --> 31:11.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% and Wasabrod and toast our arrival 31:11.033 --> 31:13.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% at the confluence with cups of ice water 31:13.066 --> 31:14.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% from the bottom of the cooler 31:14.966 --> 31:16.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% and the last of the Oreos. 31:16.600 --> 31:18.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience laughing) 31:18.166 --> 31:20.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% Bob suggests that when we get back to the Madison 31:20.100 --> 31:22.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% in two days, that we spend the night at 31:22.066 --> 31:24.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% at the Edgewater Hotel on Lake Mendota.(laughs) 31:24.000 --> 31:25.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% (audience laughs) 31:25.433 --> 31:28.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65% "We can paddle right up to the dock," he says.(laughs) 31:28.566 --> 31:30.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% I agree, delighted with his somewhat outrageous 31:30.733 --> 31:34.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% idea of staying at a posh hotel on a canoe trip. 31:34.466 --> 31:37.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% Two sandhill cranes cross the mouth of the creek 31:37.166 --> 31:38.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% pausing to look our way, 31:38.966 --> 31:41.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% a few quick running steps and their launched. 31:41.666 --> 31:43.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% They depart over the trees, 31:43.000 --> 31:45.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% bodies glowing softly golden 31:45.533 --> 31:49.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% in the evening light, long wings silhouetted 31:49.533 --> 31:52.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% against the sky, and that distinctive 31:52.433 --> 31:56.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% wingbeat tempo, slow on the downstroke, quick up, 31:56.166 --> 31:59.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% then another long, slow roll and quick snap, 31:59.300 --> 32:00.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% and then they're gone. 32:00.800 --> 32:03.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% Sun drops behind the bluffs and the world 32:03.166 --> 32:04.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:32.5% slowly cools. 32:04.600 --> 32:07.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% I listen to the distant cranes call to each other 32:07.133 --> 32:09.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% intermittently through the evening, 32:09.200 --> 32:11.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% not thinking of anything in particular. 32:11.566 --> 32:13.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% Then out of the blue, I recall our long -ago 32:13.966 --> 32:16.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% abandoned portage wheels and feel 32:16.600 --> 32:18.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% a mild sense of dread. 32:18.433 --> 32:20.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience laughing) 32:20.800 --> 32:22.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% It was justified. 32:22.333 --> 32:24.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% (Lynne and audience laugh) 32:24.333 --> 32:27.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% We made it only two miles up Blue Mounds Creek 32:27.033 --> 32:28.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% before turning around and back tracking 32:28.866 --> 32:30.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% to the Wisconsin. 32:30.200 --> 32:31.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% The water was too low. 32:31.900 --> 32:34.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% Too many deadfalls cross the narrow stream. 32:34.133 --> 32:37.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% Too many sick blankets, they were this thick, 32:37.500 --> 32:40.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% of filamentous algae blocked our passage. 32:40.666 --> 32:43.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% We became crabby paddlers. 32:43.666 --> 32:45.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% The portage wheels were back in that trash can 32:45.866 --> 32:47.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% in Alma, or we could have portaged 32:47.500 --> 32:49.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% the three miles from the Arena landing 32:49.433 --> 32:52.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% to where the Black Earth is relatively open. 32:52.300 --> 32:54.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% But with no wheels we sure weren't 32:54.100 --> 32:56.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% going to be able to do the ten mile portage 32:56.233 --> 32:58.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% from Cross Plains to Middleton as we had planned. 32:58.900 --> 33:02.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% Luckily, we were voyagers with cellphones. 33:02.866 --> 33:05.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% Our son Matt, this is a different son, 33:05.900 --> 33:07.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% drove to the Arena landing, 33:07.400 --> 33:09.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% and gave his crabby parents a ride 33:09.100 --> 33:10.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% to Lake Mendota in Middleton. 33:10.733 --> 33:13.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience laughing) 33:13.900 --> 33:16.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:57.5% It was a role reversal. 33:16.433 --> 33:20.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience laughing) 33:20.333 --> 33:21.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% This is Black Earth Creek, 33:21.633 --> 33:23.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% beloved of trout fisherman. 33:23.300 --> 33:24.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:37.5% It runs through agricultural land 33:24.833 --> 33:26.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% and thus has it's share of obstacles 33:26.533 --> 33:27.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:40% for the paddler. 33:27.933 --> 33:30.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% Fenced in cattle crossing, low bridges, 33:30.000 --> 33:31.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% and deadfalls abound. 33:31.800 --> 33:33.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% But the good news is, it's the only dam 33:33.733 --> 33:36.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% that impounded the creek for 150 years, 33:36.300 --> 33:39.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% to create Lake Marion was recently removed. 33:39.366 --> 33:42.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% And a mile of stream bed, banks, and floodplain 33:42.600 --> 33:44.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% restored to their former contours. 33:44.900 --> 33:47.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% Floodplain restoration is going on all over 33:47.333 --> 33:48.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:35% the Driftless. 33:48.566 --> 33:50.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% Mile by mile, stream banks are being reshaped 33:50.733 --> 33:52.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% into their natural contours. 33:52.666 --> 33:55.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% On the east branch of the Pecatonica, 33:55.766 --> 33:58.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% timber cooly, Sees Branch, the north fork 33:58.366 --> 34:00.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% of the bed acts warm and cooly, 34:00.900 --> 34:03.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% with thousands of stream miles in the Driftless, 34:03.433 --> 34:05.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% it's slow but important work, 34:05.566 --> 34:08.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% the best hope for Driftless streams. 34:08.100 --> 34:10.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% Just to show you in contrast, 34:10.200 --> 34:12.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:60% if you look at this one, 34:12.266 --> 34:17.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% see how the floodplain goes level with the water. 34:17.133 --> 34:19.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% And here we have the banks, 34:19.566 --> 34:22.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65% sediment from agricultural fields upstream 34:22.200 --> 34:25.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% is deposited as steep, highly erodible banks 34:25.900 --> 34:27.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% in the canon river bottoms, 34:27.433 --> 34:29.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% eliminating the floodplain. 34:29.166 --> 34:31.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:70% And so, instead of spreading into the floodplain, 34:31.800 --> 34:33.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% when the water rises, 34:33.233 --> 34:36.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% the water rips off more and more soil 34:36.166 --> 34:39.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% and carries it down to the Gulf of Mexico. 34:39.433 --> 34:41.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:27.5% Home again! 34:41.600 --> 34:43.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% Alright, leaving Black Earth Creek, 34:43.466 --> 34:45.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:55% we left the Driftless. 34:45.333 --> 34:48.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% The lakes of Madison strung together 34:48.433 --> 34:50.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:32.5% by the Yahara River lie just over 34:50.133 --> 34:51.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% the Johnstown moraine 34:51.466 --> 34:53.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% into the glaciated landscape, 34:53.600 --> 34:55.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% the land that isn't the Driftless. 34:55.300 --> 34:57.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:30% Almost home. 34:57.400 --> 34:59.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% Ok, glacial lake, Yahara. 34:59.900 --> 35:02.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% When the last glacier moved in, 35:02.433 --> 35:04.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% it covered the land that is now Madison 35:04.333 --> 35:06.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% in the Yahara River valley 35:06.000 --> 35:08.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% with ice more than 1,000 feet deep. 35:08.766 --> 35:11.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5% Imagine that. We'd be under it. 35:11.366 --> 35:13.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% As the ice melted off the land 35:13.266 --> 35:14.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% where the lakes of Madison now lie, 35:14.933 --> 35:17.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% glacial lake, Yahara took its place, 35:17.533 --> 35:19.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% draining first of the southwest and west 35:19.933 --> 35:22.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% through the Sugar River and Black Earth Creek. 35:22.600 --> 35:25.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% Glacial lake Yahara shrank until it filled 35:25.100 --> 35:27.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% only a basin bounded by the moraine 35:27.533 --> 35:29.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% that now divides the Yahara River 35:29.366 --> 35:31.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% and Black Earth water sheds to the west, 35:31.666 --> 35:35.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% and by the retreating glacier to the northeast. 35:35.133 --> 35:37.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:52.5% The lake then found a new outlet to the south, 35:37.700 --> 35:39.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% through the glacial debris covering 35:39.433 --> 35:41.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% what is now the River Valley. 35:41.266 --> 35:43.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:75% As the water moved downstream, 35:43.133 --> 35:45.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:67.5% and the lake level dropped, 35:45.066 --> 35:48.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% a chain of smaller river linked lakes appeared, 35:48.700 --> 35:51.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:42.5% the Yahara lakes. 35:51.266 --> 35:57.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% So this is a place that has been formed 35:57.400 --> 35:59.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% in large part by the glacier, I mean, 35:59.366 --> 36:01.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:72.5% it was the Paleozoic Plateau, 36:01.100 --> 36:03.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:52.5% but that's long gone. 36:03.233 --> 36:05.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:65% Our last day on the water, 36:05.633 --> 36:07.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80% deeply familiar lakes and river, 36:07.666 --> 36:08.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% we landed the canoe 36:08.800 --> 36:10.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:35% at Stoughton's Division Street Park, 36:10.966 --> 36:13.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% and walked up the hill to our home. 36:13.233 --> 36:15.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:30% (chattering) 36:15.566 --> 36:19.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% I have just one last paragraph to read. 36:19.133 --> 36:20.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:15% And... 36:22.466 --> 36:25.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:42.5% This is kind of a retrospective on it. 36:25.633 --> 36:27.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% "Sifting through the many mental images 36:27.500 --> 36:30.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% "I gathered over the past 12 days, 36:30.266 --> 36:32.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% "I'm surprised by some that linger vividly 36:32.800 --> 36:34.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% "in my mind's eye. 36:34.533 --> 36:37.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% "The long, low line of a lock and dam ahead, 36:37.400 --> 36:40.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% "slowly coming into focus as we close the distance. 36:40.700 --> 36:44.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% "The flash of a goldfinch in a riverside willow thicket. 36:44.600 --> 36:48.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:67.5% "The bleakness of a bermed, and rock-clad river bank. 36:48.333 --> 36:50.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% "The startling beauty of a white steeple rising 36:50.800 --> 36:54.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5% "from the greenrey of a Mississippi River town. 36:54.133 --> 36:57.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% "The intimidating stoney hulk of burned bluff, 36:57.866 --> 37:00.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:62.5% "Frontenac and Wyalusing, 37:00.266 --> 37:03.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% "Our first glimpse of each secretive 37:03.166 --> 37:06.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% "wooded confluence, the wild overwhelming 37:06.000 --> 37:09.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5% "tumult that is a train roaring down the River Valley. 37:09.700 --> 37:12.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:40% "There are about ten of them a day. 37:12.533 --> 37:15.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:45% "The ominous power of a barge tow. 37:15.433 --> 37:18.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5% "I recall with lasting fineness the riffles of the canon, 37:18.933 --> 37:20.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:70% "the flight of the Pelicans, 37:20.700 --> 37:23.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% "the grand movie that is the Mississippi River 37:23.166 --> 37:28.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:75% "Valley Bluffs, and the golden soft sand of the Wisconsin. 37:28.233 --> 37:32.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:72.5% "In the end I realized that I felt, rather than observed. 37:32.233 --> 37:33.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% "The sudden absence of the Driftless 37:33.833 --> 37:35.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60% "following our departure from that compellingly 37:35.966 --> 37:37.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:45% "rugged landscape, 37:37.800 --> 37:40.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:62.5% "a passage we had so many times over the years, 37:40.633 --> 37:43.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:55% "but which I had never experienced with such clarity, 37:43.933 --> 37:46.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:50% "and such a powerful sense of connection." 37:46.866 --> 37:50.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:47.5% And, thank you very much for being here. 37:50.233 --> 37:53.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:47.5% (audience applause)