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>> Welcome to University Place

Presents.

I'm Norman Gilliland.

Whether it's a tiny piece of

land somewhere in Wisconsin

that's been restored or somehow

saved in its original form, or

something as big and monumental

as Yosemite National Park, there

is a tribute behind them to a

single man who spent a good deal

of time in Wisconsin, in fact

some formative years.

His name: John Muir.

He was one of the co-founders

of the Sierra Club.

For that matter, he has many big

firsts to his credit when it

comes to our relationship with

the land.

And what was it about his early

years in Wisconsin that shaped

the thinking and the actions of

John Muir?

We'll find out from somebody who

has spent a good time studying

the life and work and even the

artifacts of John Muir.

He's Daniel Einstein.

He's the manager of historic and

cultural resources at the

University of Wisconsin-Madison.

Welcome to University Place

Presents.

>> Glad to be here.

>> What got you interested in

John Muir?

>> Well, John Muir has been a

figure in my life for many

years.

I actually grew up in the

Midwest and moved to California,

and one of my first places that

I visited was Muir Woods just

north of San Francisco.

And I went on to work at Redwood

National Park and fall in love

with Yosemite and the Sierras

and Redwood National Park.

John Muir's imprint is all over

California.

Later, I came to Wisconsin to go

to the Nelson Institute for

Environmental Studies and

discovered that there was a

Wisconsin connection to Muir,

and I've had a chance to pursue

that connection over the last

few years.

>> I was not too long ago in

Scotland, and lo and behold

there is a tribute to John Muir

there, not surprising since he

came from Scotland, and what was

his life like there?

>> Well, he was in a large

family, eight children.

A fairly prosperous family in

the town of Dunbar, Scotland.

>> Not too far from Edinburgh.

>> From Edinburgh, right.

And his father was a successful

merchant.

But he was constrained in his

ability to practice his

religious interests in Scotland

and decided that he would take

his family to America.

So here was a boy, 11 years old,

who very much scampers about the

countryside, an urban lifestyle,

who's yanked out of school

one day and boards a boat,

comes to America.

>> Was their intention to come

originally to America?

I mean, these are British

citizens.

>> Well, that's interesting.

As I say, the father was looking

for religious freedom, and as a

British citizen his initial

thought was he would go to

Canada, that that might be the

easiest route for him.

But on the boat over, he's

talking it over with some fellow

emigrants and he's told that,

no, Canada is much too difficult

a place to make a living.

>> They weren't trying to sell

him land, were they?

>> No, there were just too many

trees.

But there was this place in the

Midwest called Wisconsin, where

in a short while you could clear

the land and plant your first

crop of wheat.

And, more importantly, in this

area of southern Wisconsin you

could access the two great

watersheds of the continent:

the Mississippi basin

and the Great Lakes basin.

Only separated by a mile between

the two watersheds and the town

of Portage.

And as someone who was looking

to become a farmer and to grow

wheat, he thought being able to

access the waterways and export

through the Gulf of Mexico or

out through the Atlantic, this

would be the place to go.

So he changes his plans

midway across the Atlantic.

>> And this would have been,

what, about 1849 or so?

>> 1849.

The story goes that it was quite

an abrupt departure.

That he didn't really announce

this to the family.

He comes home one day and he

says forget about your studies

tonight, tomorrow we're going to

America.

And John, of course, is 10 years

old at the time, is delighted,

and he runs out into the streets

and screams I'm going to America

in a Scottish brogue of course.

Every time I've tried Scottish

brogue it comes out a hybrid

between Italian and Yiddish, so

I'm going to spare you that.

He goes with his sister and

brother, and they board a ship,

a six-week passage across the

Atlantic.

They arrive in America.

They get another boat, travel up

the Hudson, travel across on the

Erie Canal, another boat from

Buffalo, land in Milwaukee, and

get on an oxcart, and they head

towards Marquette County.

>> And so they have bought or

are soon to buy this piece of

land?

>> They buy the land once they

arrive.

>> Sight unseen.

>> Sight unseen.

They use their Scottish clan

connections, and they hear about

this place near Montello,

Wisconsin.

It's about 50 miles north

of Madison, where there's a

combination of grasslands and

widely scattered open oak

openings.

And wheat, at the time, was the

primary crop in Wisconsin.

A lot of folks are unaware

because of our dairy heritage

that dairying was not the first

crop, but wheat was.

>> They weren't even using wheat

for beer at that point, were

they?

>> I don't know.

>> And does, well, farming of

any kind, but in the mid-19th

century in a place that's never

been farmed before has got to be

notoriously difficult.

>> Well, it was backbreaking

work.

In Muir's autobiography, he

writes a little bit about what

it was like to arrive in this

wilderness of Wisconsin.

And let me read to you about his

first impressions as he arrives

at what they would later name

Fountain Lake.

He said: To this charming hut,

in the sunny woods, overlooking

a flowery glacier meadow and a

lake rimmed with white

water-lilies, we were hauled by

an ox team across trackless

carex swamps and low-rolling

hills, sparsely dotted with

round-headed oaks.

This sudden plash into pure

wildness, baptism in nature's

warm heart, how utterly happy

it made us.

Nature streaming into us,

wooingly teaching her wonderful

glowing lessons.

Here, without knowing it,

we still were at school.

Every wild lesson a love

lesson, not whipped,

but charmed into us.

Oh, that glorious Wisconsin

wilderness.

You get a sense for his writing

style, but this was, in many

ways, a spiritual awakening for

this young boy.

>> It makes me wonder if he had

been reading Thoreau.

>> Well, he didn't have access

to books as a young boy.

His father was, well, to be

generous, a religious zealot who

insisted that all of his family

read the one good book, the

bible.

And they were required to

memorize it.

And Muir writes quite critically

of the teaching technique that

his father imposed.

He said something to the effect

that what the mind forgets the

flesh remembers.

Which is to say he was whipped

quite brutally on a regular

basis if he did not mind his

father, if he did not tend to

his biblical lessons.

>> It must have been difficult

for him, and we have a view here

of the place that he came to.

It must have been difficult for

him as such a lover of the

outdoors to be so strictly

controlled by his father.

He seemed to have right away the

impulse to just go running off

into the woods and meadows.

>> Well, he was, what, 12 years

old before his father put him to

the plow.

And he would work on this farm

and another farm for the next

11-12 years, sometimes 17 hours

a day, from sun-up to sundown.

Meanwhile, his father was a

preacher and would leave the

farm on a regular basis to work

the circuit, leaving his

children to work the fields.

>> Was this the proverbial log

cabin American boyhood story?

>> Well, initially there was a

shanty, a burr oak shanty that

they created.

We saw the view from that shanty

out across Fountain Lake.

This combination of sedge meadow

and bog and prairie.

And eventually they did build a

fairly substantial home at

Fountain Lake, and it was there

that they raised animals and

raised their wheat.

>> Those look like a pretty

substantial and, if the picture

is right, a fairly trim family

home for the Muirs.

>> They were fairly prosperous,

but, remember, he had all the

children working for him.

They worked the land pretty

hard.

And wheat is a kind of crop that

exhausts the soil fairly

rapidly.

>> Presumably, they just have to

move pretty soon.

>> They lived there for about

seven years before the father

decides to pick up and move

away.

And this was heartbreaking to

John because of all the work

they had put in to building this

place, and, yet, here they were

moving on to the next farm.

>> Which, I assume, was at least

fairly nearby.

>> Yeah.

The farm was about five to six

miles down the road.

But this Fountain Lake farm had

this unique combination of

different habitats and water,

water in particular.

>> And we get a view of the lake

here.

>> The lake plays an important

role in his understanding of the

landscape because we have these

different ecosystems.

We have the sedge meadow.

We have the prairie.

We have the bog.

The farm they moved to, Hickory

Hill, is on a hill and no water

to be found there.

The lake plays an interesting

role in one of his early

adventures, which he writes

about in his autobiography,

"The Story

of My Boyhood and Youth."

He didn't know how to swim, and

he's out on the lake one day and

he's about to scare a friend of

his who's on a boat.

He approaches the boat, but

instead of being able to grab

the boat, he's drawn underwater,

and he doesn't know how to swim.

And he falls lower and lower

into the lake, and he thinks

he's about to die.

And he has this epiphany that he

has to swim, that he must find

the courage to drive himself

back up to the top.

And he's able to do this,

gasping for breath, nearly

drowning.

But he's terribly embarrassed by

this experience, and he wills

himself to swim yet again the

next day and the day after.

>> That's a real exercise in

overcoming fear.

>> Here is a man whose exploits

later in life are well

documented that he would go off

into the wilderness for weeks at

a time all by himself with but a

crust of bread and a pouch of

tea.

And he would just will himself

to survive in these very trying

situations.

>> Is this, what we're seeing

here, a look at Fountain Lake

today?

>> Fountain Lake today has been

preserved.

>> And is there water in there?

>> There is water.

That's a 30-acre lake which is

just over the horizon of this

view of the former home site.

The property has been preserved

as a county park and a state

natural area.

And then the original homestead,

the home 80, has been purchased

by someone who is helping to

preserve the site and has been

able to get the home site

designated as a national

landmark.

>> Did he bond as well with the

Hickory Hill property as he had

with the Fountain Lake?

>> Well, Hickory Hill, as I

said, was the second farm, a

different landscape, a dry,

sandy landscape.

And he talks about that

transition to the new farm.

He writes: After eight years

of dreary work of clearing the

Fountain Lake farm, fencing it

and getting it in perfect

order, building a frame house

and the necessary outbuildings

for the cattle and horses,

after all this had been

victoriously accomplished and

we had made out to escape with

life, father bought a half

section of wild land about

four or five miles to the

southeast and began all over

again to clear and fence and

breakup the fields for a new

farm, doubling all the

stunting, heartbreaking

chopping, grubbing,

stump-digging, rail-splitting,

fence-building, barn-building,

house-building.

We called our second farm

Hickory Hill Farm for its many

fine hickory trees and the

long, gentle slope leading

up to it.

The land was better for

farming, but it had no living

water, no spring, or stream,

or meadow.

So, clearly, his association

with the Fountain Lake property

was much stronger,

but he did as he was told.

They built this fine house, fine

brick house, and it was here,

from the time he was, oh, let's

see, 17 to about 22, where he

lived.

>> Now, this is starting to look

like a classic 19th century

Wisconsin farmhouse.

>> It's a substantial house and

barn that they built there.

One of the iconic stories from

his time on Hickory Hill Farm

was digging the well.

As he says, there's no water.

They're at the top of the hill,

and one of the first assignments

that his father gives him is to

dig the well through the solid

sandstone rock.

And each morning he would go out

with a hammer and a stone

chisel, and he would literally

chip away at the solid stone.

And he worked at this for weeks

each morning.

>> Without knowing how far down

the water would be.

>> It's down there somewhere.

>> Could be 50 feet; could be

250 feet.

>> They had no way of knowing.

It was close to the house.

You want the well close to the

house.

But, no, he had no way of

knowing.

They set up a tripod with a

pulley and a bucket and rope

system so that midday John would

load the little chips of rock

into the bucket and his father

would haul them up to the

surface and they would empty the

bucket and then have his lunch,

he'd go back down into the hole

and work by himself in this

three-foot diameter shaft.

>> Three feet, and he's 40, 50,

60 feet down?

>> He got to 80 feet, and one

morning his father is lowering

him down into this dark, narrow

shaft and he's immediately

overcome by what is referred to

as choke damp, which is an

accumulation of carbon dioxide

gases.

And, for some reason, they knew

nothing of this threat.

He immediately losses

consciousness, and right before

he goes blank, he calls out to

his father and his father

instructs him to grab hold of

the bucket.

And clinging to the bucket, his

father hauls him 80 feet to the

surface, unconscious, near

death.

Well, what they learned from

their neighbors who were miners,

this accumulation of gas in the

mine can be cleared away.

It can be stirred up, and you

can return to the shaft.

After just a few days of

recovery, what does his father

do?

He sends him back down to finish

the job.

>> So just as he has overcome

his fear of drowning, he has to

overcome this fear of

suffocating at the bottom of a

mine.

>> I can't imagine after being

that close to death to being

told this is what we do.

You have no choice.

Go back down and finish.

Apparently it was only another

10 feet before they struck

water.

And that well is still present

on the farm.

They've built a windmill over

the top of it.

>> We saw that.

>> Of the well head.

The farm is privately owned by

the same family that bought it

from the Muirs.

>> Oh, really.

>> Back in the 1870s.

>> Well, it must be a good spot

then.

Well, as John Muir gets into his

teens, he faces a decision as to

whether to stay on the family

farm or strike out on his own.

>> You know, he stays on the

farm until he's 22 years old,

which is longer than most young

men would have stuck around.

But he's very attached to his

family and his brothers and his

sisters.

But he hungers for something

more.

Now, I said that he had no books

as a young boy, but through his

teen years he is able to find

books that he borrows from

neighbors.

Sometimes surreptitiously,

sneaking them into the house.

>> Is he home-schooled through

these years, or does he actually

go to a local school?

>> The only record we have is

that he might have attended

school for a couple of months

between the time he is 11,

leaving Scotland, and the time

he leaves to go to Madison.

So he's teaching himself.

He's home-schooled in a sense,

but he has no formal

instruction.

He teaches himself algebra and

trigonometry and physics, and he

starts reading the great poets

and the classics, teaching

himself Latin and Greek.

>> Does his father approve of

this learning?

>> His father initially is

restricting his education

because the bible has all the

truth that one might need to

live a good life.

There are stories of him taking

time in the middle of the day to

scribble out math problems in

the dirt in between the harvest

and the planting season.

He begs his father to allow him

to study, allow him to work on

some of his inventions.

He becomes very interested in

mechanical contrivances.

>> Is he starting to invent

things on the farm then?

>> Pardon me?

>> Is he starting to invent

things on the farm?

>> He does come up with some

inventions that help feed the

animals, but his primary

inventions seem to be centered

around clocks.

He doesn't have, I think there

may have been one clock in the

household, but mostly he learns

about clocks and time from these

books that he's able to borrow.

>> Here's one of these devices

that he has put together.

Something called a scythe clock.

>> A scythe clock, right.

It's a whimsical contraption

that he invents.

A scythe is a tool that one uses

in the fields to cut wheat.

That implement that father time

and The Grim Reaper carry around

with them.

And he uses just a whittling

knife to carve gears and cogs

which he assembles on the blade

of his scythe, and suspended

from the blade is a pendulum

which he makes out of arrows

that are counterweighted with

old copper pennies that he

pounds out into arrowheads.

And this arrowhead pendulum

drives the gears that provide

both the seconds, minutes, the

hours on his scythe clock.

>> What is the actual function,

a purpose for this scythe clock?

>> To tell time.

>> To tell time.

>> And what's, I think,

fascinating about this very

early invention of his, he

carves on the handle, the

re-curved handle, the biblical

verse all flesh is grass, which

I think can be interpreted many

different ways.

>> Yes.

>> Don't be so vain, you may be

flesh today but tomorrow you're

grass, that life is fleeting.

But I also think it portends

some of his thinking about

immortality.

That flesh is grass

and grass is flesh.

>> This cycle.

>> This cycle of life,

this carbon cycle, this

interconnectedness of all

things, which is an important

theme in his later writings.

>> And he would be very aware of

that as being on the farm over a

period of time where he could

see this annual cycle or

lifetime cycles taking place.

>> Absolutely.

His connection to farm animals

but as well as the birds and the

animals that live in and among

the fields where he is working.

He's very aware of both the

animals and the trees and the

flowers.

Fascinated from his very

youngest days.

>> How does it come about then

that he leaves the farm at the

age of 22?

>> Well, he's inventing.

Let me just tell you about one

of his earlier inventions that

he creates.

It's a self-setting sawmill.

>> There it is there.

>> The self-setting sawmill, say

that 10 times, is a model that

he creates in his early teens.

At the time, sawmills had a

single blade and you would drive

the log through the sawmill.

>> A circular blade.

>> A circular blade.

But each time the log goes

through the sawmill, you'd have

to reset the spacing so that you

would get a standard dimension

lumber.

>> Right.

>> And so he sees that there's

an opportunity to create a

carriage that will allow a

standard offset to be created

each time the log passes the

blade and so you get a standard

board.

>> A standard board each time.

>> Right.

So he takes this model, and I

think this is a wonderful story,

he takes this model down to a

stream, he's still living at

Fountain Lake, and he dams the

stream to create the water power

to drive this model sawmill.

And he sees that it is good.

Almost biblical sounding.

>> Yeah, I was going to say,

right.

>> He sees that it is good, and

he decides that that's enough.

That his concept for this

machine is good and it works and

he moves on.

Of course, later in life, the

irony here is that he works

tirelessly against damming

projects throughout the west.

And his ire is often raised

against the clear-cutting of

trees.

But here he is building a

sawmill in his youth.

Well, he is known in the

neighborhood for inventions.

He builds clocks.

He builds the sawmill.

And one day he meets a friend on

the road, and the friend says,

you know, down in Madison

they're about to have the State

Fair.

I bet that if you gather some of

your inventions, go to the State

Fair, put them on display that

many people will approach you

and offer you a job as an

engineer or someone to work in

their factory.

And this is the opportunity that

he's looking for.

So he announces that he's going

to Madison.

His parents are not necessarily

enthused about losing their son,

but they realize that he must

go.

So he bundles up his inventions,

and he heads to Pardeeville.

>> Sort of the train line ends.

>> That's where the train is.

It's about nine miles away.

And the interesting thing about

this is that here he has been in

Wisconsin now for 11 years, and

he's never traveled more than a

few miles away from the home

farm.

>> Yeah, probably not at all

unusual back then.

>> In fact, his father only

allowed him Sundays off and two

days of vacation throughout this

11-year period.

New Years and the 4th of July.

Those are his only days off.

>> Not even Christmas.

Too lavish, too garish a

celebration.

>> I don't know.

But here he is, he's been

cloistered on this farm for 11

years.

He remembers the trains from

Scotland, but he has not seen a

train.

He has not traveled more than a

few miles from home.

He attracts attention

immediately in Pardeeville.

They say, who is this boy, and

what are you doing with this

strange bundle of inventions?

And when the trains arrives, the

stationmaster asks the engineer

if this boy, who's going to

Madison to exhibit at the State

Fair, could travel up in the

engine.

And, reluctantly, the engineer

allows him to climb up onto the

locomotive, and they head south

to Madison.

Well, it wasn't good enough to

be traveling with the engineer.

He asks if he can climb out onto

the engine to get closer to the

wheels and the drive mechanisms.

>> This is before liability

laws.

>> Yeah.

And, again, reluctantly the

engineer says sure.

He climbs out and that's not

good enough.

He climbs out onto the

cowcatcher on the front of the

train, and this is how he rides

into Madison.

>> That's how he comes into

Madison.

>> He comes into Madison.

>> This is some idea of what

he'll see there.

He'll see this view of Madison

at about that time.

>> So, it's September 1860, and

he goes to the fairgrounds.

On the hill is the Fine Arts

Hall.

The Fine Arts Hall is where all

of the exhibits are being held.

The Fine Arts Hall is roughly

where the west stands of the

Camp Randall Football Stadium is

along Breese Terrace, the

largest structure at the

fairgrounds.

And he's met there, again, all

according to his unbiased

autobiography, he's met with

with intrigue and excitement.

What is this that you have?

And he says, well, I've got some

inventions.

And the professor who's minding

the hall says, pick any place

for your exhibit, I'll get you a

carpenter and we'll build you a

shelf.

And he sets up his scythe clock

and he sets up one of his other

clocks which he attaches to

something called his early

rising bed.

>> Ah, the early rising bed.

>> The early rising bed is at

the exhibit.

And this is a great sensation.

In fact, the Wisconsin State

Journal writes and article about

this man, this man-boy from the

hinterlands who's come to

Madison, the ingenuous whittler

and his early rising bed.

>> How was it supposed to work?

>> How is it supposed to work?

It's a clock again.

It's a series of cogs and wheels

that are attached to a

counterweight.

It's a three-legged bed.

Two legs are at the head of the

bed and a third leg in the

center.

And that third leg has an elbow.

The elbow joint is held in place

with a peg, and attached to that

peg is a cord.

And so he sets the clock for a

few minutes and asks one of the

young boys in the audience to

come and lay on his bed, and

after a few minutes the pendulum

drives the gears which trips the

escapement which allows the

counterweight to drop, pulling

the cord, yanking the peg out of

the elbowed joint, and the

bottom of the bed falls to the

ground, and the unsuspecting

occupant falls in a heap.

People loved this.

In fact, he writes later that he

tries to patent this idea, and

several of these beds he

fabricates and sells as a

student trying to make a little

extra money.

I'm still looking for that bed.

I'm persuaded there's one of

them sitting in someone's attic.

>> If not their dorm room.

[LAUGHTER]

>> In their dorm room.

Well, this experience at the

fair is successful in as much as

the other great attraction at

the fair is a man who brings an

iceboat.

This is a boat that would allow

someone to traverse the frozen

rivers of Wisconsin.

And this man invites him to come

to his shop in Prairie du Chien,

and he will mentor him and he

will teach him the mechanical

trades.

And so he leaves Madison after

the fair and heads out to

Prairie du Chien.

Well, it turns out that this

ice-breaking steam-driven boat

is a technological failure,

and it sinks.

>> We'd call that a failure for

any boat.

>> Yep.

>> Except maybe a submarine.

>> And so he makes his way back

to Madison.

I imagine him, without

projecting too much, like so

many young men who are lost.

He doesn't know what to do.

He knows he has to leave his

family.

His first venture into the

working world is a failure, and

he wanders over to the campus.

And of course he's enthralled by

what he sees there.

Here's what he writes about

seeing the university campus.

He says: No University,

it seemed to me, could be more

admirably situated, and as I

sauntered about it, charmed

with its fine lawns and trees

and beautiful lakes, and saw

the students going and coming

with their books, and

occasionally practicing with

a theodolite in measuring

distances, I thought that

if I could only join them

it would be the greatest joy

of life.

I was desperately hungry and

thirsty for knowledge and

willing to endure anything to

get it.

And he chances upon a student

who'd seen him at the fair,

said aren't you that John Muir?

And he said, yeah, yeah, I would

love to come study here,

but I don't know how to get in.

>> Don't have the tuition

either, perhaps.

>> I don't have the tuition.

I've never gone to school.

I haven't been to school since I

was 11 years old.

He says, no problem.

Go and talk to Professor

Sterling, who was the acting

chancellor of the university,

and plead your case.

And he said, but I don't have

any money.

He says, no problem.

He says, very little is

required.

I'm presume you're able to enter

the freshman class and you can

board yourself as quite a number

of us do at a cost of about a

dollar a week.

The baker and milkman come every

day, and you can live on bread

and milk.

This is the 1860s version of a

student diet based on Ramen.

>> There you go.

>> In fact, there are stories of

students chipping in and buying

a barrel of crackers and cooking

a potato on the furnace and

getting by with very little.

So, Professor Sterling asks him

to recite a little Latin, a

little Greek, and has him do a

few problems.

He says, you know, I think you

have what it takes.

And he goes to what is called

the preparatory school to bring

him up to speed.

Apparently, he only needed a few

weeks and he enters the freshman

class.

He moves into North Hall,

North Hall at the time.

>> And here's what it looks like

pretty much today and then.

>> It hasn't changed that much.

The exterior of the building

hasn't changed.

Unfortunately, the interior of

the building has been modified

pretty significantly.

>> Is his room there, I haven't

been in, but I imagine one of

those velvet cords and a little

plaque on the wall and maybe

some Victorian furniture.

>> No, not quite so glamorous.

Although, as we can see in the

picture here, his room was in

the first floor northeast

corner.

And it was just recently in the

last year that, in conjunction

with the local Sierra Club's

50th anniversary, we were able

to get into the room and they

cleared the furniture out for

us, and we were able to kind of

reconstruct the space to imagine

what it looked like back when

John Muir was a student.

His bedroom was about nine feet

by nine feet.

There was an adjacent study

room, and he shared a second

bedroom.

So it was kind of a suite.

So he had two windows in his

bedroom, one which could look

out across the lake, one which

looked out towards town.

By the way, in the 1860s there

were only three buildings on

campus.

There was North Hall,

South Hall, and the main edifice

which we now refer to as Bascom.

>> Right.

>> So campus is quite small.

There are 80 students.

Most of them are living

in North Hall.

Some of the classes occur in

Bascom Hall, but there is a

recitation hall in North Hall

as well.

>> And what about the proverbial

student desk?

You have a bed.

We've got that figured out.

And then the only other thing

you need as a student is a desk,

right?

>> Well, the student desk is, I

think, one of the more wonderful

inventions.

He, of course, continues to

whittle.

And there are descriptions of

his dorm room being something of

a museum, and in the corner was

this student study desk.

And a pile of wood shavings in

the corner and bottles and vials

on the window sill and buckets

of botanical specimens.

So keep up with his studies,

because he's an easily

distracted young man, I can

imagine he might have a

diagnosis as ADD because he's

just so fascinated and so

brilliant but easily distracted.

He builds himself another clock.

There's always a clock involved.

Time is a theme that plays out

in so much of his writing and

his thinking.

And, of course, these gears and,

again, this theme of revolution

and cycles.

Well, this clock is attached to

a tabletop which has a slot in

it.

And below the slot in the

tabletop is a book rack.

And he would set his clock at

15-minute intervals, and every

15 minutes a counterweight would

drive a piston which was below

the book rack and drive a book

up through the slot in the

tabletop and it would flop open.

>> The book, for that 15

minutes.

>> That 15 minutes.

And he would study for 15

minutes, the gears would rotate,

the piston would retreat, the

book would drop through the

hole.

The bookcase was on a carriage,

it would move over a slot kind

of like the self-setting

sawmill.

It would move over.

The piston would drive the next

book up on the table, and he

would have 15 minutes for his

next lesson.

>> A fascinating idea.

I suspect not really that

practical given the way most

people study.

>> Well, we did some research

recently to try and find in the

UW Archives references to his

time here, and there were only a

few catalogs.

They actually printed the

catalog after the term.

So they would have the names of

the students who had attended in

that term and the coursework.

And although Muir spends the

equivalent of two and a half

years in study at UW, he never

advances beyond being a first

year student.

And he's categorized in the

catalog as an irregular gent.

[LAUGHTER]

Which I think is a wonderful

term.

He was not normal in the sense

that he had any particular

notion about how he was going to

navigate his time on campus.

>> As he's doing all this

inventing, do we have any sense

that he still has this inner

glow of fascination for things

natural?

>> Well, his studies were

standardized, in some sense,

where in the 1860s you learned

the classics.

You learned Greek.

You learned Latin.

You learned mathematics.

And natural history, as a

discipline, was relatively new.

His main instructor was Ezra

Carr, who taught chemistry but

also natural history.

And this is where he starts to

pick up some of his ideas about

glaciation and geology and the

natural world.

But much of his studies were in

that classical mode.

>> So a good complement to his

what might intuitive studies.

>> He does have an epiphanic

experience.

Probably occurring in his first

or second year on campus.

A fellow student meets him

outside of North Hall, and this

student has a reputation for

being a little full of himself

and wants to share his

knowledge.

And he asks Muir if he knows

anything about trees.

Well, he writes about it in his

autobiography.

Let me just read this.

One memorable day in June,

when I was standing on

the stone steps of the north

dormitory, Mr. Griswold

joined me and at once

began to teach.

He reached up, plucked

a flower from an overspreading

branch of a locust tree, and,

handing it to me, said,

"Muir, do you know what family

this tree belongs to?"

"No," I said, "I don't know

anything about botany."

"Well, no matter," said he,

"what is it like?"

"It's like a pea flower,"

I replied.

"That's right," he said, "it

belongs to the Pea Family."

"But how can that be,"

I objected, "when the pea

is a weak, clinging,

straggling herb,

and the locust a big,

thorny hardwood tree?"

Now, of course, this is written

50 years after this experience.

And Muir is a wonderful

storyteller, and these stories

change over time.

Was there a locust tree?

Yes.

Did he have an epiphanic botany

lesson?

Well, he'd always loved flowers.

He was always aware of the

natural world, but what Griswold

introduced to him was the plant

science, the taxonomy, which,

for someone who has these

mechanistic views of the world,

genus species.

>> Yes.

You have to have the

organization that goes with the

knowledge.

>> So now he's learning about

the reproductive parts of a

flower and how they're similar

and dissimilar and how you can

group these together.

He writes: This fine lesson

charmed me and sent me flying

to the woods and meadows

in wild enthusiasm.

I can imagine him literally

being off the ground a few feet.

He writes about his botanizing

expeditions.

He would traverse the lake

shore, Lake Mendota, gathering

flowers, gathering plants that

he would bring back to his dorm

room to identify.

By the way, there are some

accounts of him swimming along

the Lake Mendota shoreline out

to University Bay and back.

>> As long as you stay near the

shoreline.

>> As long as you stay near the

shoreline.

This is where he's really

awakened to this natural world.

>> And what becomes of that

legendary Muir locust?

>> Well, the book, his

autobiography comes out in 1914.

And by that time, they're not

sure where this Muir locust is.

During an alumni parade they

walk around North Hall and they

look for the biggest black

locust they can find and they

declare that that would be the

black locust that John Muir

received his first botany lesson

under.

>> I don't recall there being a

locust there now.

>> It was cut in 1953.

And that's a picture of it on

the front page of our tree walk

brochure.

>> That's what became of the

locust.

Some wood products.

>> The locust had to be cut

down, but because it was a

revered tree, President EB Fred

worked with others to have

mementos crafted from the tree.

They made gavels and they made

letter openers out of these

gavels which then were

distributed to benefactors

across the country and people

who loved or knew John Muir.

And there was a wonderful

collection of these letters of

acceptance.

Oh, thank you, President Fred,

for remembering me and

remembering John Muir with this

gavel.

>> So he was having the time of

his life at the University of

Wisconsin circa 1860-1861.

It's a time in which a lot of

young men are going over to Camp

Randall for processing to the

front during the Civil War.

What about John Muir?

>> Well, John does not

volunteer.

In fact, he arrives on campus

February of 1860.

It's only a couple of months

later that the shot

at Fort Sumter is heard.

Immediately, many of his

classmates drop out of school

and join the Union forces.

They head over to what used to

be the fairgrounds, now

converted to a Civil War

training ground.

And he's torn.

He doesn't want to go to war.

It's not in his constitution to

do that.

He visits Camp Randall, and he

writes that he was absolutely

appalled by these young men.

Some of them students that he

knew, some of them neighbors

from up in the Montello area.

They are drinking.

They are swearing.

They are visiting the local

bordellos.

>> I'm tell you, it's the

beginning of the end for

Madison.

It all ended with the 1861.

>> It was a rough stretch.

But what distresses him the most

is sitting around the fire at

Camp Randall with these young

recruits, and they're talking

about how glorious a time they

will have killing the

southerners.

And he ministers to them, and he

tries to calm their nerves

because they're scared, they're

frightened, their hubris is

beyond what one might expect

from a reverent person heading

off to war.

Later in the war, he visits Camp

Randall again at a time when the

wounded and the sick are being

brought back to the hospital,

and he tends to the sick and

wounded and it's at that time

that he imagines that he might

become a medical doctor.

That might be his path in life.

>> Not far fetched given his

ability to improvise devices

and, of course, his

understanding of the organic.

His reputation as the best

chemist on campus certainly sets

him well for a career as a

physician.

There are stories about Muir

being a draft dodger, that he

avoided service.

He leaves campus in 1863.

And he returns to the family

farm, and he's waiting out the

draft.

At this stage in the war,

no more volunteers are coming

forward, and they need new

recruits.

>> They do, yes.

They have repeated calls.

>> They have repeated calls,

in 1863 in particular.

So he's thinking maybe I want to

go to the University of

Michigan.

They have a medical school

there.

But perhaps he decides that his

chances are better if he stays

in Wisconsin when the draft

comes up that his number will

not be as high, and his chances

will be better.

So he waits in Wisconsin until

the draft is satisfied, the

local draft is satisfied.

And he pledges to leave

Wisconsin when the first flower

emerges that following spring.

>> An interesting way of

thinking of the time.

>> And come early February, late

February of 1864 the flower

blooms in his yard, and the next

day he takes off for Canada.

Now, his younger brother had

already, in the parlance of the

time, skedaddled across the

border to Canada.

He, it appears, was dodging the

draft, but Muir seems to have

stuck around long enough to know

what his chances were and was

not so much avoiding the draft

as sidestepping it.

>> And is this the point at

which he leaves Wisconsin?

>> He leaves Wisconsin, heads to

Ontario where he works for a

while, then makes his way down

to Indianapolis, Indiana, where

he gets a job working in a

carriage factory.

And he's well liked in his job

because, of course, he's coming

up with new ways of

manufacturing and time studies

that he's doing to improve the

efficiency of this operation.

But he has an industrial

accident.

A tool flies up and catches him

in the eye, and he's blinded.

And he spends the next month

recuperating, not knowing if he

will regain his sight, and it's

at this time that he vows that

if he should regain his sight,

he will look towards nature and

leave this industrial world

behind.

And he does regain his sight,

and, from there, he leaves on

his first great adventure, what

he later calls his thousand-mile

walk to the Gulf.

>> Down to Cedar Key, Florida.

>> Right.

>> This is, I think, 1867.

>> Right, right.

So he makes his way down,

eventually arriving in Cuba.

He contracts malaria.

It's not such a great trip.

Then finds his way back to

New York where he boards a ship

and makes his way to California.

And, of course, California is

where he spends his adult life

and is most closely associated.

But he's, what, 28, I believe,

by the time he gets to

California.

>> And, of course, by this time

his formative years, well in

terms of Wisconsin, are behind

him.

Does he ever go back to

Wisconsin?

>> He makes his way back on

several occasions.

Once, he's hoping to buy back

the Fountain Lake farm.

And his brother-in-law has

purchased it.

And he recalls, many, many years

later of course, that his

brother-in-law would not sell

him the farm.

He wanted to preserve the farm,

and his brother-in-law tells him

that it's folly.

That you can't stand in the way

of progress.

That you can't fence off this

place.

That it's inevitable that it

will be a farm forever.

Fortunately, many, many years

later, the farm is purchased, as

I mentioned, by Marquette

County, and through the work of

many volunteers conducting

ecological restoration, the

sedge meadows and the prairie

has been restored.

And it's a beautiful time of

year to go and visit the old

Fountain Lake Farm, now known as

the John Muir Memorial Park.

>> He's really best known, isn't

he, for his work out west,

though, with Yosemite and then

starting the Sierra Club, which

is a concept which must have

been foreign to a lot of people

when he did it.

>> Well, John Muir is, for many

people, the foremost iconic

figure in the early conservation

movement.

He was an early advocate for

forest reservations which become

our national forests.

He advocated for the

establishment of national parks.

He writes hundreds of articles

in what at the time was the

equivalent of the major

networks.

Atlantic Magazine,

Century Magazine.

He was appearing on all of

those.

>> Talk shows of the time.

>> Talk shows at the time,

right.

And he has a powerful influence

in the establishment of the

Grand Canyon, Petrified Forest,

Mount Rainier, Sequoia National

Park, and of course Yosemite.

And this earns him the title

father of our national parks.

>> Now, in order to do that,

in order to have that much

clout, he had to have some

political connections somewhere.

Where did he get them?

>> Well, this is where his

friendship with Ezra Carr and

his wife Jean Carr becomes so

important.

Ezra Carr was his teacher in

geology and natural history, and

his wife really took a strong

interest in John.

They leave the University of

Wisconsin, move to Berkeley to

teach at the University of

California, and they reunite in

California.

And they are well connected, and

they introduce John to folks

like Emerson.

>> Ralph Waldo Emerson.

>> Yeah.

And other movers and shakers and

magazine editors and political

contacts.

He spends a night

with Teddy Roosevelt.

>> That seems inevitable,

doesn't it?

>> Right.

>> Because Roosevelt was such a

big proponent of parks.

>> Right.

And the Antiquities Act and the

National Park System Organic

Act.

These are all things that Muir

was able to influence through

his writing, through his

politics, through his

relationship with the Sierra

Club.

>> And I think this is, is this

the Carr's house here that we're

seeing?

>> Coming back to Madison, Jean

Carr was one of the people who

was judging the inventions back

at the Fine Arts Hall.

>> Oh, is that right?

From his very first days in

Madison.

>> Very first days.

And her son was one of the kids

that was used to demonstrate the

early rising bed at the fair.

And so they invite him to come

over to his house, and he's the

chore boy and the babysitter for

the Carr children.

And, of course, they have this

remarkable library.

>> Where's the house?

>> It's on West Gilman Street.

>> West Gilman in Madison.

It's still there.

>> It's still there.

It's been converted, like so

many grand houses in Madison,

has been converted to student

housing.

I'd love to go take a look

there.

But wall to wall books and this

wonderful wraparound sun porch.

And that's why I'm persuaded

that early in his Madison career

he must have been learning about

botany because Jean Carr was a

botanist and introduced those

ideas to him.

>> He lives until 1914.

How long before the first

memorials to John Muir start to

show up?

>> Well, here on campus

the first recognition that

he receives is with an honorary

doctorate.

I think it was 1897.

Never graduates but he receives

an honorary doctorate, which,

interestingly, he doesn't come

to Madison to retrieve.

But we do have a letter in

Archives where he very politely

acknowledges his alma mater and

thank you very much for the

diploma.

He receives honorary doctorates

from other universities as well.

So not bad for a dropout.

>> Right.

>> In 1916 the sculptor

CS Pietro sculpts a likeness of

Muir, and, in a dramatic

ceremony held at Music Hall, the

dedication occurs with a special

address from Chancellor

Van Hise, who recalls Muir's

great achievements.

It's important to remember that

during the first 75 years of the

university's existence, John

Muir is the greatest man to have

ever passed through the

university's doors.

That bust, that bronze bust is

over in Birge Hall.

If you enter the main lobby and

go up on the mezzanine, you can

see the Muir bust.

A couple of years later, he was

honored again with the

designation of Muir Knoll.

Muir Knoll being directly across

from North Hall.

And another dedication, I think

we have a picture of the

ceremony.

There it is.

And who is that at the podium?

That's Milton Griswold, the man

who provided John Muir with his

first botany lesson.

>> That's appropriate.

>> Yeah.

And this photo is kind of a

who's who of Madison

dignitaries.

Birge and Van Hise

and Elizabeth Waters.

They're all...

>> Familiar names.

>> All at the podium to

dedicated Muir Knoll.

The adjacent park is also now

named for John Muir.

John Muir Park was designated in

the 1960s, interestingly, as a

result of a controversy on

campus when a social science

building was being constructed

in this woodland, then known as

Bascom Woods.

The compromise was that no more

buildings would be built in

these woods and that they would

be renamed John Muir Woods.

So John Muir Knoll,

John Muir Woods.

>> Which is where we find you

getting inspired by the work of

John Muir, as many have over the

years and continue to be

influenced by John Muir.

Well, Daniel Einstein, it's been

a pleasure walking through the

Wisconsin footsteps of that

great environmentalist and so

many other things he has to his

credit too, John Muir.

>> If I can just close with the

very last lines in John's

autobiography about departing

the university.

From the top of a hill on the

north side of Lake Mendota

I gained a last wistful,

lingering view of the beautiful

university grounds

and buildings where

I had spent so many hungry

and happy and hopeful days.

There with streaming eyes

I bade my blessed alma mater

farewell.

But I was only leaving one

university for another, the

Wisconsin University for the

University of the Wilderness.

>> Well, it's a very poetic

statement of a turning point

in the life of John Muir

by the man himself.

I'm Norman Gilliland.

Thanks for joining me, and I

hope you'll be with me next time

for University Place Presents.