1 00:00:03,570 --> 00:00:09,209 Peru is home not only to majestic landscapes, 2 00:00:09,209 --> 00:00:14,948 scenic roads, tasty delights, 3 00:00:14,948 --> 00:00:19,586 and the grandfather of all tall cacti, 4 00:00:19,586 --> 00:00:26,893 it also happens to be home of the little known Amazon Desert. 5 00:00:30,597 --> 00:00:32,098 Funding for         The Desert Speaks 6 00:00:32,132 --> 00:00:34,901 was provided by Desert Program Partners, 7 00:00:34,901 --> 00:00:37,570 representing concerned viewers making a financial commitment 8 00:00:37,604 --> 00:00:41,241 to the education about and preservation of deserts. 9 00:00:41,241 --> 00:00:43,476 And by the Stonewall Foundation. 10 00:00:43,510 --> 00:00:46,679 Additional funding provided by The Nature Conservancy. 11 00:00:50,784 --> 00:01:11,104 ♪ music ♪ 12 00:01:18,912 --> 00:01:22,115 The Amazon, the world's largest river system, 13 00:01:22,115 --> 00:01:27,287 begins its journey high in the Andes of Peru. 14 00:01:27,287 --> 00:01:32,192 More than 3,000 miles from its mouth, its main tributary 15 00:01:32,192 --> 00:01:35,662 flows through wild and varied desert, 16 00:01:35,662 --> 00:01:38,598 home to civilizations thousands of years before 17 00:01:38,598 --> 00:01:47,574 the arrival of the Incas. 18 00:01:47,574 --> 00:01:50,243 The geology of the Amazon desert is so convoluted, 19 00:01:50,243 --> 00:01:53,613 twisted, faulted, that I need the help of my brother, 20 00:01:53,613 --> 00:01:57,450 Dick Yetman, a geologist, to make sense of it all. 21 00:01:57,484 --> 00:02:00,120 My Argentine friend, Axel Neilsen, will bring 22 00:02:00,120 --> 00:02:02,922 an international cultural perspective 23 00:02:02,956 --> 00:02:07,861 to the people we meet. 24 00:02:07,861 --> 00:02:11,731 As we wind our way through the mountains east of Cajamarca, 25 00:02:11,731 --> 00:02:15,001 we crown out at a pass over 10,000 feet. 26 00:02:15,001 --> 00:02:21,841 Here we catch our first glimpse of the Amazon. 27 00:02:21,875 --> 00:02:25,979 It lies 7,000 feet below us. 28 00:02:25,979 --> 00:02:30,150 In Peru, it's called the Rio Marañón 29 00:02:30,150 --> 00:02:32,752 and the canyon through which it flows is deeper 30 00:02:32,752 --> 00:02:37,957 than the Grand Canyon. 31 00:02:44,164 --> 00:02:45,532 Buenos dias! 32 00:02:45,532 --> 00:02:46,633 A donde van. 33 00:02:46,633 --> 00:02:47,934 Gracias. 34 00:02:47,934 --> 00:02:49,402 A donde van. 35 00:02:49,402 --> 00:02:51,037 Excellente. 36 00:02:51,037 --> 00:02:53,373 Buena suerte. 37 00:02:53,373 --> 00:02:55,575 How many dollars do you think they spend a year 38 00:02:55,575 --> 00:02:58,211 maintaining this road? 39 00:02:58,211 --> 00:02:59,612 150. 40 00:02:59,646 --> 00:03:01,648 So I suppose that helps. 41 00:03:01,648 --> 00:03:06,085 It also makes it really a rough road. 42 00:03:06,085 --> 00:03:08,154 The circulation of goods 43 00:03:08,154 --> 00:03:10,857 between the eastern slopes of the Andes 44 00:03:10,857 --> 00:03:14,060 and the Andean highlands and the coast, the maritime coast, 45 00:03:14,060 --> 00:03:16,229 was very important throughout Andean history 46 00:03:16,229 --> 00:03:18,398 and I could say that it is 47 00:03:18,398 --> 00:03:21,234 even one of the hallmarks of Andean history 48 00:03:21,234 --> 00:03:25,638 is this intensity of inter-regional trade. 49 00:03:25,672 --> 00:03:27,607 I'd called this country vertical. 50 00:03:27,607 --> 00:03:30,777 Oh, man, that's a long ways down and very slowly now 51 00:03:30,777 --> 00:03:33,880 we will, you'll, we'll get out of the fog zone. 52 00:03:33,880 --> 00:03:37,083 That valley's another 3,000 feet below us, possibly? 53 00:03:37,083 --> 00:03:41,054 Well, it's possibly that much. 54 00:03:41,054 --> 00:03:43,089 We know that at the beginning, 55 00:03:43,089 --> 00:03:45,458 in the time of the hunter-gathers, 56 00:03:45,458 --> 00:03:49,095 this is between 10,000 years ago and about 4,000 years ago, 57 00:03:49,095 --> 00:03:52,465 some of these groups were combining their economies, 58 00:03:52,465 --> 00:03:55,501 resources from the lowlands and from the highlands. 59 00:03:55,501 --> 00:03:58,871 When the economy shifted to agricultural and pastoralism 60 00:03:58,871 --> 00:04:05,578 and therefore these populations settled and became sedentary. 61 00:04:05,612 --> 00:04:12,919 (Spanish speaking woman) Si, hay blanca, roja,... 62 00:04:12,919 --> 00:04:16,923 Y cada uno es diferente? 63 00:04:16,923 --> 00:04:19,959 Es diferente. 64 00:04:19,993 --> 00:04:25,898 So this is sufficient here for, almost for one family 65 00:04:25,898 --> 00:04:30,670 for a year, they need a little more land, 66 00:04:30,670 --> 00:04:32,138 but they don't sell these. 67 00:04:32,138 --> 00:04:34,507 These are raised for the family. 68 00:04:34,507 --> 00:04:36,909 They don't take the time to separate out the varieties. 69 00:04:36,909 --> 00:04:38,711 They come out in various colors 70 00:04:38,745 --> 00:04:40,480 and each color has its own flavor 71 00:04:40,480 --> 00:04:44,050 and own place in the diet. 72 00:04:44,050 --> 00:04:46,786 These fellas use the oxen in tandem, two pairs, 73 00:04:46,786 --> 00:04:49,222 so that they can cover the field more quickly. 74 00:04:49,222 --> 00:04:51,557 They're from the same family or clan 75 00:04:51,557 --> 00:04:53,559 and working working together like this, 76 00:04:53,559 --> 00:04:56,562 they can do a field in about a quarter of the time 77 00:04:56,562 --> 00:04:59,799 as it would be if they were just to do it with one pair of oxen 78 00:04:59,799 --> 00:05:02,001 at a time. 79 00:05:02,035 --> 00:05:03,803 It is hard to settle in this very steep landscape 80 00:05:03,803 --> 00:05:06,172 but this is an ideal place 81 00:05:06,172 --> 00:05:09,542 for economically diversified economies 82 00:05:09,542 --> 00:05:13,313 because you can access resources from very different environments 83 00:05:13,313 --> 00:05:16,783 with a relatively short distance. 84 00:05:16,783 --> 00:05:18,785 Archeologists have always paid too much attention 85 00:05:18,785 --> 00:05:21,888 to the highlands and to the desert 86 00:05:21,888 --> 00:05:25,325 mainly because the archeological sites are easier to find; 87 00:05:25,325 --> 00:05:28,461 those environments and perishable materials, like 88 00:05:28,461 --> 00:05:31,664 textiles and wood, preserve much better, so, what we find is, 89 00:05:31,698 --> 00:05:35,001 archeology is much more impressive. 90 00:05:35,001 --> 00:05:37,904 But we, we know that these eastern slopes of the Andes 91 00:05:37,904 --> 00:05:41,240 and the forest played a major role 92 00:05:41,240 --> 00:05:44,010 in all the history of the Andean highlands. 93 00:05:44,010 --> 00:05:46,012 When we get to the Marañón, 94 00:05:46,012 --> 00:05:51,250 its origin is about 500 miles south of us in, 95 00:05:51,250 --> 00:05:53,853 still in Peru. 96 00:05:53,853 --> 00:05:55,221 So it flows north? 97 00:05:55,221 --> 00:05:57,990 So it's flowing north for 500 miles 98 00:05:57,990 --> 00:06:01,160 and then another 100 after the bridge. 99 00:06:01,194 --> 00:06:04,397 That is, my gosh, that's a long way down. 100 00:06:04,397 --> 00:06:08,167 Look at the strike of that limestone down there. 101 00:06:08,201 --> 00:06:11,104 If we focus on the last 4 or 5,000 years 102 00:06:11,104 --> 00:06:14,640 we see a shift in the direction of influence 103 00:06:14,640 --> 00:06:17,176 between highlands and lowlands 104 00:06:17,210 --> 00:06:19,312 in the eastern side of the Andes. 105 00:06:19,312 --> 00:06:22,248 At the beginning, the lowlands were much more important 106 00:06:22,248 --> 00:06:24,584 because, through the lowlands, 107 00:06:24,584 --> 00:06:27,453 some of the technologies, like ceramics, 108 00:06:27,487 --> 00:06:30,757 and some of the important highland crops, like corn, 109 00:06:30,757 --> 00:06:33,793 were introduced into the rest of the Andean area. 110 00:06:33,793 --> 00:06:37,263 Later on, say a thousand years ago approximately, 111 00:06:37,263 --> 00:06:41,401 we see a reversion in this trend. 112 00:06:41,401 --> 00:06:44,871 Highland civilizations, which were more organized politically, 113 00:06:44,871 --> 00:06:47,540 perhaps technologically more sophisticated, 114 00:06:47,540 --> 00:06:54,213 began to exert an influence on the lowlands. 115 00:07:00,720 --> 00:07:03,856 Just in case some skeptics should question 116 00:07:03,890 --> 00:07:07,126 whether the Amazon really flows through desert or not, 117 00:07:07,160 --> 00:07:10,229 I'd like to present a living proof. 118 00:07:10,263 --> 00:07:15,067 This is the Sonoran Palo Verde, a native of the Sonoran Desert 119 00:07:15,067 --> 00:07:17,537 and for many people, the proto-typical plant 120 00:07:17,537 --> 00:07:19,572 of our great Sonoran Desert 121 00:07:19,572 --> 00:07:25,178 here on the Rio Marañón in Peru. 122 00:07:25,178 --> 00:07:29,782 As an example of evolution here in the Rio Marañón Valley, 123 00:07:29,816 --> 00:07:33,619 this young browningia cactus, this species is found only here, 124 00:07:33,653 --> 00:07:37,924 has these potent spines up to 3 inches long. 125 00:07:37,924 --> 00:07:40,893 These are an effective deterrent against herbivores, 126 00:07:40,927 --> 00:07:45,565 that is, mammals that would eat plants. 127 00:07:45,565 --> 00:07:47,266 By the time the browningias have become adults, 128 00:07:47,300 --> 00:07:49,902 generally about 20 year or so, 129 00:07:49,936 --> 00:07:53,473 they have lost most of those spines so that their exterior 130 00:07:53,473 --> 00:07:56,576 is just as smooth as can be, and I can stroke it 131 00:07:56,576 --> 00:07:59,979 without any fear of being impaled. 132 00:07:59,979 --> 00:08:01,781 They no longer need those spines because they're tough enough 133 00:08:01,781 --> 00:08:05,017 to withstand the attacks of herbivores. 134 00:08:05,051 --> 00:08:11,057 However not all columnar cacti lose their spines. 135 00:08:11,057 --> 00:08:13,826 But this cactus, in addition to maintaining its spines, 136 00:08:13,860 --> 00:08:17,263 develops this felt-y surface that's called a cephalium 137 00:08:17,263 --> 00:08:19,465 and it has an interesting role 138 00:08:19,465 --> 00:08:22,401 of protecting the developing flowers and fruits 139 00:08:22,401 --> 00:08:25,271 so that predators can't get at them and eat them 140 00:08:25,271 --> 00:08:27,006 before they're ripe. 141 00:08:27,006 --> 00:08:28,941 When they ripen, they open up, 142 00:08:28,975 --> 00:08:31,644 the pollinators have an easy way to get at them. 143 00:08:31,644 --> 00:08:33,279 Until that time, 144 00:08:33,279 --> 00:08:38,384 they're protected under that wooly cephalium. 145 00:08:42,088 --> 00:08:44,724 It's surprising to find this bombax tree 146 00:08:44,724 --> 00:08:46,826 growing here in the Amazon desert. 147 00:08:46,826 --> 00:08:49,228 These get grotesquely big 148 00:08:49,262 --> 00:08:51,564 and grow in all sorts of weird contortions. 149 00:08:51,564 --> 00:08:53,733 They're a very tropical tree. 150 00:08:53,733 --> 00:08:55,434 They don't grow in the Sonoran Desert 151 00:08:55,434 --> 00:08:58,137 but right on the margins. 152 00:08:58,137 --> 00:09:00,940 You can find a close relative of this tree growing, 153 00:09:00,940 --> 00:09:07,847 so for my purposes, this is a good desert tree. 154 00:09:19,191 --> 00:09:25,464 This little flower is a close relative of the poinsettia. 155 00:09:25,464 --> 00:09:29,201 It's actually a member of the genus jatropha 156 00:09:29,201 --> 00:09:32,538 and one characteristic of warm New World deserts 157 00:09:32,538 --> 00:09:40,279 is an abundance of plants in this genus. 158 00:09:40,313 --> 00:09:44,817 This cactus is a member of the genus armatocereus 159 00:09:44,817 --> 00:09:47,420 but I call it the sausage cactus. 160 00:09:47,420 --> 00:09:49,689 In addition to looking kind of strange, 161 00:09:49,689 --> 00:09:52,725 it has a very unusual use. 162 00:09:52,725 --> 00:09:56,495 Local people say that if you cut off a piece of an arm 163 00:09:56,495 --> 00:10:00,466 and drop it into a bucket of muddy water 164 00:10:00,466 --> 00:10:04,503 from the Rio Marañón, within two hours all the mud and impurities 165 00:10:04,503 --> 00:10:06,706 will have dropped off into the bottom 166 00:10:06,706 --> 00:10:08,341 and you can drink the water. 167 00:10:08,341 --> 00:10:15,247 It's a natural water purifier. 168 00:10:15,247 --> 00:10:19,885 Five hours later and 8,500 feet below where we first 169 00:10:19,885 --> 00:10:23,756 spied the river, we reach its edge. 170 00:10:23,756 --> 00:10:26,592 Across from us lies the sultry, buggy, 171 00:10:26,592 --> 00:10:33,666 parasite-ridden village of Balsas. 172 00:10:33,666 --> 00:10:38,871 Well, this is a river, this is a large river 173 00:10:38,871 --> 00:10:41,574 and we're in a desert. 174 00:10:41,574 --> 00:10:44,510 Why is it oxymoronic to have a river in the desert? 175 00:10:44,510 --> 00:10:46,479 I don't know, it, it isn't, there's, all over the world, 176 00:10:46,479 --> 00:10:48,614 the Nile is a river in the desert. 177 00:10:48,614 --> 00:10:50,716 But there's something different here. 178 00:10:50,750 --> 00:10:53,152 Now you tell me that this is granite, right, the basement? 179 00:10:53,152 --> 00:10:55,454 This is the basement of the whole complex 180 00:10:55,488 --> 00:10:57,289 which is really wonderful because we've been traveling 181 00:10:57,289 --> 00:10:58,624 through limestone and sandstone for the last two days. 182 00:10:58,624 --> 00:10:59,925 Yeah. 183 00:10:59,925 --> 00:11:02,395 Thousands of feet of it and now 184 00:11:02,395 --> 00:11:05,564 we get into the intrusive bottom which actually came underneath 185 00:11:05,564 --> 00:11:09,735 and melted into the rock that was already there. 186 00:11:09,769 --> 00:11:11,904 And those two huge ranges then, each of them 187 00:11:11,904 --> 00:11:14,840 captures the rain, one coming from the Atlantic, 188 00:11:14,874 --> 00:11:17,076 the other anything coming into the Pacific, 189 00:11:17,076 --> 00:11:19,311 very little of it makes it down here. 190 00:11:19,311 --> 00:11:21,347 So is, is that why it's in the desert? 191 00:11:21,347 --> 00:11:24,050 Maybe when a place doesn't get much rain, 192 00:11:24,050 --> 00:11:28,487 maybe that would be a desert. 193 00:11:28,521 --> 00:11:29,455 Hey, look at the loading in that water. 194 00:11:29,455 --> 00:11:30,723 My gosh. 195 00:11:30,723 --> 00:11:32,692 Look at all the sediments. 196 00:11:32,692 --> 00:11:34,994 You couldn't get a glass of this water 197 00:11:34,994 --> 00:11:36,696 and I bet it would take a day for it to settle out completely. 198 00:11:36,696 --> 00:11:38,864 Yeah, it's real, real fine stuff. 199 00:11:38,898 --> 00:11:40,599 That is a lot of materials being transported. 200 00:11:40,599 --> 00:11:41,434 And it's gotta come from somewhere. 201 00:11:41,434 --> 00:11:42,435 Why? 202 00:11:42,435 --> 00:11:44,003 Well, gravity. 203 00:11:44,003 --> 00:11:46,639 That's, that's the way I was taught gravity works. 204 00:11:46,639 --> 00:11:48,574 So all those, all the Andes are being worn down by rain 205 00:11:48,574 --> 00:11:50,576 and they are being lifted up 206 00:11:50,576 --> 00:11:53,145 by the plate tectonics you described. 207 00:11:53,179 --> 00:11:56,615 It's weird but we are now about 500 miles north of the origin 208 00:11:56,615 --> 00:11:59,719 of the Rio Marañón. 209 00:11:59,719 --> 00:12:02,655 So what's collecting from all that basin, 210 00:12:02,655 --> 00:12:04,690 bringing all that sediment here. 211 00:12:04,690 --> 00:12:07,693 It's got 3500 miles to go to reach the Atlantic. 212 00:12:07,693 --> 00:12:09,228 Cuantos años tiene el puente? 213 00:12:09,228 --> 00:12:13,299 (talking in Spanish) 214 00:12:13,299 --> 00:12:17,036 Oh I thought thought this bridge only was 10 years old 215 00:12:17,036 --> 00:12:20,473 and the bridge operator tells me it's actually forty years old. 216 00:12:20,473 --> 00:12:22,508 So Balsas has not had Balsas operating 217 00:12:22,508 --> 00:12:25,945 for the last 40 years. 218 00:12:25,945 --> 00:12:32,318 Before that, everybody had to cross on rafts. 219 00:12:36,055 --> 00:12:38,157 This great band of sandstone that we see up here, 220 00:12:38,157 --> 00:12:40,359 which is probably a thousand foot thick, 221 00:12:40,359 --> 00:12:43,696 as it gets off to the south, it suddenly just drops 222 00:12:43,696 --> 00:12:46,665 straight off, almost vertical. 223 00:12:46,665 --> 00:12:49,268 And this is one example of the great tectonic movement 224 00:12:49,268 --> 00:12:50,436 that takes place here in the Andes, 225 00:12:50,436 --> 00:12:51,971 the mountain building. 226 00:12:51,971 --> 00:12:54,974 This is one of the examples of how it's done. 227 00:12:54,974 --> 00:12:57,777 The forces that make this mountain building happen 228 00:12:57,777 --> 00:13:02,848 are compression of sediments from one side to the other, 229 00:13:02,882 --> 00:13:06,585 as well as forces within the earth 230 00:13:06,619 --> 00:13:09,822 which are pushing up at the same time. 231 00:13:09,822 --> 00:13:11,624 It's something that happens over such a long period of time, 232 00:13:11,624 --> 00:13:14,326 but it does demonstrate the plasticity 233 00:13:14,360 --> 00:13:19,598 that these rocks have. 234 00:13:19,632 --> 00:13:21,801 Two years ago when I was traveling 235 00:13:21,801 --> 00:13:24,170 in the Rio Marañón region, I noticed up on this hillside 236 00:13:24,170 --> 00:13:26,238 a strange cactus. 237 00:13:26,272 --> 00:13:29,008 I didn't know what it was, and later on, 238 00:13:29,008 --> 00:13:31,443 I was able to identify it and subsequently found that 239 00:13:31,443 --> 00:13:34,747 DNA studies have traced this to a very primitive 240 00:13:34,747 --> 00:13:37,817 cactus that matter of fact, it is the grand-daddy, 241 00:13:37,817 --> 00:13:42,087 the original cactus from which all of our columnar cacti 242 00:13:42,087 --> 00:13:48,627 are evolved, including our beautiful saguaro cactus. 243 00:13:48,661 --> 00:13:51,363 This fits in perfectly with the discovery 244 00:13:51,397 --> 00:13:59,405 that the Rio Marañón is a hot spot of evolution of cacti. 245 00:13:59,405 --> 00:14:26,098 Adelante, vamanos. Tell me if I'm wrong but it seems to me 246 00:14:26,098 --> 00:14:28,467 the people in Chachapoyas are lighter skinned 247 00:14:28,467 --> 00:14:29,568 and certainly look different from elsewhere in the Andes. 248 00:14:29,602 --> 00:14:31,604 Yes. 249 00:14:31,604 --> 00:14:33,672 Tradition has it that the women from Chachapoya were known 250 00:14:33,706 --> 00:14:35,941 for their beauty and that the Incas took some of them 251 00:14:35,975 --> 00:14:38,244 to serve as concubines for the kings 252 00:14:38,244 --> 00:14:40,846 and some of them to serve as acllas, 253 00:14:40,846 --> 00:14:44,483 this is virgins of the sun, the chosen ones, 254 00:14:44,483 --> 00:14:47,519 for sacrifices and, you know for weaving the special clothes 255 00:14:47,519 --> 00:14:51,257 for the Inca and other special chores like that. 256 00:14:51,257 --> 00:14:53,659 I've heard that the Spaniards reported 257 00:14:53,659 --> 00:14:56,128 that Chachapoyans had light colored eyes 258 00:14:56,128 --> 00:14:58,464 in addition to skin? 259 00:14:58,464 --> 00:15:02,134 Yeah, that's, that's a mystery and light hair 260 00:15:02,134 --> 00:15:06,438 and that sort of gave way to all sorts of speculations 261 00:15:06,472 --> 00:15:10,276 about you know, transatlantic contact before Columbus. 262 00:15:10,276 --> 00:15:12,845 Chachapoyas has a different flavor to it, 263 00:15:12,845 --> 00:15:15,414 a different feeling than other places that we've been, 264 00:15:15,414 --> 00:15:18,150 southern, central and northern Peru. 265 00:15:18,150 --> 00:15:19,318 Yes, and very different from the people of the highlands. 266 00:15:19,318 --> 00:15:21,053 Yeah. 267 00:15:21,053 --> 00:15:23,689 Although, look, we're over 8000 feet here 268 00:15:23,689 --> 00:15:26,892 so it's not at sea level by any means. 269 00:15:26,892 --> 00:15:29,328 I see all this forest and I think we're the lowlands 270 00:15:29,328 --> 00:15:33,365 you know but you're right, actually we're quite high. 271 00:15:33,399 --> 00:15:35,534 Look, almost every building around the plaza 272 00:15:35,534 --> 00:15:38,671 is a travel agency or a cyber café. 273 00:15:38,671 --> 00:15:40,839 Yeah, big time attraction for tourists. 274 00:15:40,839 --> 00:15:41,774 They know the two things that tourists need, 275 00:15:41,774 --> 00:15:44,376 tours and internet. 276 00:15:44,410 --> 00:15:46,045 Write home. 277 00:15:46,045 --> 00:15:47,179 Write home, that's right. 278 00:15:47,179 --> 00:15:49,515 Hey, we're in Chachapoyas. 279 00:15:49,515 --> 00:15:51,684 But the reality is that Chachapoyas is the only 280 00:15:51,684 --> 00:15:55,120 colonial town in the cloud forest and I have to 281 00:15:55,154 --> 00:15:58,023 break the news to you that we're going to go back down 282 00:15:58,057 --> 00:15:59,525 to places where there are more cacti. 283 00:15:59,525 --> 00:16:01,994 Oh, okay. 284 00:16:01,994 --> 00:16:04,029 Now I know you should rejoice at that, but I, 285 00:16:04,063 --> 00:16:05,431 I'd like to see you a little bit happier. 286 00:16:05,431 --> 00:16:06,865 Hey, I'll follow you. 287 00:16:06,865 --> 00:16:12,071 Okay. 288 00:16:12,071 --> 00:16:15,674 The water that enters the Amazon is a massive 289 00:16:15,708 --> 00:16:18,677 amount of water from a very complex system. 290 00:16:18,711 --> 00:16:22,114 The Andes have so much limestone in them 291 00:16:22,114 --> 00:16:24,583 that they create such a tremendous aquifer 292 00:16:24,583 --> 00:16:28,087 which holds so much water and to release that water 293 00:16:28,087 --> 00:16:33,859 gradually into these rivers which drain this vast system. 294 00:16:36,362 --> 00:16:40,099 These north-south trending canyons seem to have 295 00:16:40,099 --> 00:16:45,170 formed along faults between these blocks of mountains. 296 00:16:45,204 --> 00:16:48,640 So the mountains dip apart like this and then they 297 00:16:48,640 --> 00:16:51,744 can go up or down depending on the forces 298 00:16:51,744 --> 00:16:54,179 but it creates a weak zone and the rivers seem to be 299 00:16:54,213 --> 00:16:57,583 carving themselves along those zones. 300 00:17:00,319 --> 00:17:02,988 When we see water released, 301 00:17:02,988 --> 00:17:07,226 virtually into the air as this one is, it means that there is 302 00:17:07,226 --> 00:17:11,463 a great amount of hydrostatic pressure on that water 303 00:17:11,497 --> 00:17:19,138 from a great elevation, from a great distance. 304 00:17:19,138 --> 00:17:21,707 2,000 miles downstream we're goin' to be 305 00:17:21,707 --> 00:17:24,076 out of the mountains, like we are now. 306 00:17:24,076 --> 00:17:26,512 We're out of the Sierra, we're in the foothills 307 00:17:26,512 --> 00:17:29,481 and there will be a lot more vegetation so the water 308 00:17:29,515 --> 00:17:32,751 will be flatter but maybe broader, and of course 309 00:17:32,785 --> 00:17:35,020 the volume will have increased tenfold 310 00:17:35,020 --> 00:17:38,991 by the time we reach that point. 311 00:17:40,893 --> 00:17:42,561 Let's cross the Urubamba. 312 00:17:42,561 --> 00:17:45,197 As it's now, it's the dirty Urubamba. 313 00:17:45,197 --> 00:17:46,865 Yeah, it was clear. 314 00:17:46,899 --> 00:17:48,567 Buenos dias, señora. 315 00:17:48,567 --> 00:17:50,569 (talking in Spanish) 316 00:17:50,569 --> 00:17:57,443 So this cart is the main, 317 00:17:57,443 --> 00:18:06,151 the transportation for the entire village here. 318 00:18:06,185 --> 00:18:08,387 This is looking like a sediment river now. 319 00:18:08,387 --> 00:18:10,122 Yeah, yeah. 320 00:18:10,122 --> 00:18:11,757 So the bottom would be sandy here, right? 321 00:18:11,757 --> 00:18:14,093 It's not cutting anymore, it's carrying. 322 00:18:14,093 --> 00:18:21,467 It's carrying its load on down. 323 00:18:21,467 --> 00:18:24,103 This woman is exceptionally strong, too. 324 00:18:24,103 --> 00:18:25,637 Dang. 325 00:18:25,671 --> 00:18:29,908 (talking Spanish) Ah. 326 00:18:29,942 --> 00:18:32,778 So she does this whenever anybody wants to cross 327 00:18:32,778 --> 00:18:35,247 and basically it's just for families here. 328 00:18:35,247 --> 00:18:37,049 But I get the feeling she only does it when she goes. 329 00:18:37,049 --> 00:18:43,689 She never does it when she stays here. 330 00:18:43,689 --> 00:18:45,190 I wonder if I can get one of these at home? 331 00:18:45,224 --> 00:18:46,692 Right. 332 00:18:46,692 --> 00:18:48,093 To across Granite Creek in Prescott? 333 00:18:48,093 --> 00:18:50,295 No, to cross my carport. 334 00:18:50,329 --> 00:18:51,897 You don't suppose she was going to do that 335 00:18:51,897 --> 00:18:53,298 just to take a load of bananas across? 336 00:18:53,332 --> 00:18:55,834 Gracias, señora. 337 00:18:55,868 --> 00:19:01,940 So the Urubamba can be crossed with the proper engineering. 338 00:19:01,974 --> 00:19:04,376 We've been traveling about 4 hours this morning 339 00:19:04,376 --> 00:19:07,379 on a very tough dirt road but we're in the Amazon 340 00:19:07,379 --> 00:19:09,615 so we can take our time and if we have to drive after dark, 341 00:19:09,615 --> 00:19:13,352 what the heck, we're still in Peru. 342 00:19:13,352 --> 00:19:18,891 (music playing) 343 00:20:04,703 --> 00:20:07,472 We've come through desert and cloud forest, 344 00:20:07,472 --> 00:20:10,142 plenty of mud and dust, now it's time to let nature's power 345 00:20:10,142 --> 00:20:20,552 clean our cars, gravity flow hose courtesy of a waterfall. 346 00:20:20,586 --> 00:20:26,858 It's not often that you find the right combination 347 00:20:26,858 --> 00:20:29,628 It's not often that you find the right combination 348 00:20:29,628 --> 00:20:33,999 of a waterfall to give hydropower to move a wheel 349 00:20:33,999 --> 00:20:36,401 which then turns a larger wheel, 350 00:20:36,435 --> 00:20:38,770 they put a belt on and they've got power to operate 351 00:20:38,804 --> 00:20:41,673 all of their tools here, doesn't cost them a thing. 352 00:20:41,707 --> 00:20:43,775 All they have to do is cut the wood, bring it here, 353 00:20:43,809 --> 00:20:52,618 nature takes care of everything else. 354 00:21:00,826 --> 00:21:06,164 (music playing) 355 00:21:06,164 --> 00:21:08,333 We've driven now from 356 00:21:08,367 --> 00:21:12,204 10,000 feet in the cloud forest to about 1500 feet 357 00:21:12,204 --> 00:21:16,308 in the Amazon Desert along the Rio Marañón. 358 00:21:16,308 --> 00:21:19,778 The similarities between this Amazon Desert and the 359 00:21:19,778 --> 00:21:22,447 southern Sonoran Desert are uncanny. 360 00:21:22,481 --> 00:21:25,050 In a Sonoran Desert, as here, you have a lot of 361 00:21:25,050 --> 00:21:28,754 this sort of croton bush which is a toxic member 362 00:21:28,754 --> 00:21:32,891 of the poinsettia family and we see a lot of different members 363 00:21:32,891 --> 00:21:35,227 of the bean family that have all sorts of 364 00:21:35,227 --> 00:21:39,464 thorns and spines on them, but most of all we see 365 00:21:39,498 --> 00:21:42,401 a proliferation of cacti and most of them great cacti 366 00:21:42,401 --> 00:21:44,903 just as in the Sonoran Desert. 367 00:21:44,903 --> 00:21:50,108 I feel like I'm at home but I'm in the Amazon. 368 00:21:50,142 --> 00:21:51,410 In the Sonoran Desert a little cactus called the pincushion 369 00:21:51,410 --> 00:21:54,579 is quite common. 370 00:21:54,579 --> 00:21:56,348 Here, they don't have those along the Amazon, 371 00:21:56,348 --> 00:21:58,383 instead they have this. 372 00:21:58,417 --> 00:22:01,320 It's called the mellow cactus. 373 00:22:01,320 --> 00:22:04,222 When they become adults, the green part quits growing. 374 00:22:04,222 --> 00:22:07,359 This upper part, which is called the cephalium or the head, 375 00:22:07,359 --> 00:22:13,398 continues to grow and grows and grows. 376 00:22:13,432 --> 00:22:15,934 And each year puts out fruits, 377 00:22:15,934 --> 00:22:18,870 these little wonderful pink fruits. 378 00:22:18,904 --> 00:22:25,911 Believe it or not, it tastes like a cherry tomato. 379 00:22:25,911 --> 00:22:28,013 The only cactus fruit I've ever tasted 380 00:22:28,013 --> 00:22:33,118 that has that specific twang. 381 00:22:35,654 --> 00:22:38,056 Before we cross the lower bridge over the Marañón 382 00:22:38,090 --> 00:22:41,493 and begin to wind our way up and out of the Amazon Desert, 383 00:22:41,493 --> 00:22:43,729 it's only appropriate that we stop 384 00:22:43,729 --> 00:22:46,231 and treat ourselves to the sweet juice of a fruit 385 00:22:46,231 --> 00:22:52,003 surprisingly suited to this hot dry climate. 386 00:22:52,003 --> 00:22:56,041 Apparently this region produces, what they claim, 387 00:22:56,041 --> 00:22:59,411 are the sweetest and juiciest pineapples in the world. 388 00:22:59,411 --> 00:23:01,747 And apparently they don't export very well. 389 00:23:01,747 --> 00:23:05,117 They don't travel. 390 00:23:05,117 --> 00:23:07,819 Yeah, they don't travel well; they rot or they damage, 391 00:23:07,853 --> 00:23:09,788 so it's the only place you can get them is right around in here 392 00:23:09,788 --> 00:23:12,758 and I'm glad that we're here. 393 00:23:12,758 --> 00:23:19,498 I gotta have more. 394 00:23:19,498 --> 00:23:20,932 That's good. 395 00:23:20,966 --> 00:23:23,135 That's good bass. 396 00:23:23,135 --> 00:23:25,103 Yeah. 397 00:23:25,137 --> 00:23:29,674 Isn't that wonderful? 398 00:23:29,674 --> 00:23:31,810 Hey, Yetman, do you realize that both times 399 00:23:31,810 --> 00:23:34,413 that we've crossed the Marañón/Amazon on a bridge, 400 00:23:34,413 --> 00:23:37,015 it's been in the desert. 401 00:23:37,015 --> 00:23:40,685 And did you realize it would ever be this dirty in Peru? 402 00:23:40,685 --> 00:23:43,555 I didn't. 403 00:23:43,555 --> 00:23:48,560 That carrying the Andres down to the Atlantic. 404 00:23:48,560 --> 00:23:51,263 If you take all the water that's in the Amazon basin, 405 00:23:51,263 --> 00:23:55,233 that's one-fourth of all the fresh water in the world. 406 00:23:55,267 --> 00:23:58,637 If you were to get in a kayak here at the Marañón Bridge 407 00:23:58,637 --> 00:24:00,672 and do 50 miles a day, how long do you think it would take you 408 00:24:00,672 --> 00:24:03,175 to reach the Atlantic? 409 00:24:03,175 --> 00:24:05,277 I think it would depend on how long 410 00:24:05,277 --> 00:24:06,912 my insect repellant would last. 411 00:24:06,912 --> 00:24:09,247 That's true. 412 00:24:09,281 --> 00:24:11,917 I would, well look, I'll give you an answer. 413 00:24:11,917 --> 00:24:14,319 You couldn't do it in 60 days, 414 00:24:14,319 --> 00:24:20,225 cause it's more than 3,000 miles from here. 415 00:24:29,434 --> 00:24:31,970 Where the Rio Marañón heads to the northeast, 416 00:24:31,970 --> 00:24:34,306 the river has cut a gap through the Andes, 417 00:24:34,306 --> 00:24:36,041 making for the shortest and easiest passage 418 00:24:36,041 --> 00:24:39,311 across the whole range. 419 00:24:39,311 --> 00:24:41,646 This meant the people from the Amazon could trade 420 00:24:41,680 --> 00:24:45,016 with people from the highlands in the desert coast to the west. 421 00:24:45,050 --> 00:24:49,488 It also created a most unusual desert ecosystem. 422 00:24:49,488 --> 00:24:53,158 Where the Marañón has created this unusual habitat 423 00:24:53,158 --> 00:24:56,061 has become a cross roads, making for one of the most important 424 00:24:56,061 --> 00:24:59,598 human historical and natural historical places 425 00:24:59,598 --> 00:25:00,999 in the entire Amazon basin. 426 00:25:05,070 --> 00:25:07,606 The coastal deserts of Peru were home to 427 00:25:07,606 --> 00:25:09,441 elaborate civilizations long before the Incas 428 00:25:09,441 --> 00:25:14,212 arrived. 429 00:25:14,246 --> 00:25:16,181 Oh that would be something, you know if I 430 00:25:16,181 --> 00:25:19,017 found something. Treasures from the colossal to the 431 00:25:19,017 --> 00:25:21,052 minute can still be found as well as ancient 432 00:25:21,086 --> 00:25:25,790 traditions that are still in practice. 433 00:25:25,790 --> 00:25:30,328 Next time on The          Desert Speaks . 434 00:25:32,831 --> 00:25:39,838 (speaking Spanish) 435 00:25:39,838 --> 00:25:48,747 Well, I always wanted to walk 436 00:25:48,747 --> 00:25:55,120 my way to Balsas anyway, bye guys! 437 00:25:55,120 --> 00:25:58,757 (speaking Spanish) 438 00:26:02,827 --> 00:26:04,529 Funding for         The Desert Speaks 439 00:26:04,529 --> 00:26:06,965 was provided by Desert Program Partners, 440 00:26:06,965 --> 00:26:09,868 representing concerned viewers making a financial commitment 441 00:26:09,868 --> 00:26:13,371 to the education about and preservation of deserts. 442 00:26:13,405 --> 00:26:15,507 And by the Stonewall Foundation.