WEBVTT 00:04.634 --> 00:07.467 align:start MAJOR FUNDING FOR THE DESERT SPEAKS HAS BEEN PROVIDED BY 00:07.567 --> 00:11.567 align:start ASARCO, INC., AN INTEGRATED PRODUCER OF OF NONFERROUS METALS 00:11.667 --> 00:14.133 align:start AND OTHER INDUSTRIAL MINERALS AND PRODUCTS. 00:14.234 --> 00:19.067 align:start ASARCO, INC., ADDING VALUE TO NATURE'S RESOURCES. 00:19.167 --> 00:54.534 align:start [MUSIC/NATURE SOUNDS] 00:54.634 --> 00:57.400 align:start A LOT OF WHAT THE SONORAN DESERT HAS TO SAY WHEN IT SPEAKS 00:57.501 --> 01:00.334 align:start REPEATS THE POINT THAT THIS ISN'T EXACTLY 01:00.434 --> 01:02.701 align:start MOST FOLKS' NOTION OF A DESERT. 01:02.801 --> 01:05.367 align:start IT'S FULL OF LIFE WHEN YOU TAKE A GOOD LOOK. 01:05.467 --> 01:07.133 align:start A LOT OF US WHEN WE HEAR THE WORD DESERT 01:07.234 --> 01:10.701 align:start IMAGINE THE MOVIE DESERTS OF NORTH AFRICA. 01:10.801 --> 01:14.167 align:start WELL, THERE IS A LITTLE BAKED CORNER OF THE SONORAN DESERT 01:14.267 --> 01:17.200 align:start THAT COMES SOMEWHAT CLOSER TO THOSE CAMEL-TESTING AREAS, 01:17.300 --> 01:20.133 align:start THE SIERRA DEL PINACATE. 01:20.234 --> 01:29.000 align:start HOWEVER, THE PINACATE IS NOT DESERTED. IT'S ALIVE. 01:29.100 --> 01:31.200 align:start THIS PLACE GETS TO YOU. 01:31.300 --> 01:33.601 align:start I THINK EVEN THE MOST DEDICATED CITY SLICKER 01:33.701 --> 01:36.100 align:start WOULD FEEL A LITTLE OF THAT KICK THE FIRST TRAVELERS DID HERE, 01:36.200 --> 01:39.200 align:start THAT EXCITEMENT OF DISCOVERY. 01:39.300 --> 01:41.701 align:start THE FEELING ENDURES FOR A FEW, 01:41.801 --> 01:45.968 align:start LIKE THE RESEARCHERS WHO STUDY THE PINACATE. 01:46.067 --> 01:49.834 align:start [SPEAKING SPANISH] 01:49.934 --> 01:53.734 align:start THE VALLEY AND THE BEAUTY OF EL PINACATE DATES BACK 01:53.834 --> 01:56.467 align:start TO THE ARRIVAL OF THE SPANISH EXPLORERS THAT VISITED THE AREA. 01:56.567 --> 02:06.934 align:start IN THE WRITTEN NARRATIVES, THEY TALK ABOUT 02:07.033 --> 02:10.567 align:start THE IMPRESSIVE SCENIC BEAUTY OF THE AREA. 02:10.667 --> 02:17.434 align:start EL PINACATE IS A RELATIVELY NEW VOLCANO WITH ITS OWN 02:17.534 --> 02:21.367 align:start UNIQUE CHARACTERISTICS ON THE WHOLE CONTINENT. 02:21.467 --> 02:26.934 align:start [SPEAKING SPANISH] 02:27.033 --> 02:30.667 align:start WE CONSIDER EL PINACATE THE HEART OF THE SONORAN DESERT. 02:30.767 --> 02:33.434 align:start IT IS A REGION EMINENTLY REPRESENTATIVE OF THE 02:33.534 --> 02:39.234 align:start SONORAN DESERT, SHARED BY THE STATES OF SONORA AND ARIZONA. 02:39.334 --> 02:41.968 align:start THE LITTLE NECK OF LAND BETWEEN THE INTERNATIONAL BORDER 02:42.067 --> 02:44.334 align:start AND THE TOP OF THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA 02:44.434 --> 02:47.000 align:start IS JUST ABOUT FIFTY MILES WIDE, 02:47.100 --> 02:54.300 align:start WITH THE PINACATE RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE. 02:54.400 --> 02:56.734 align:start WITH VERY FEW MEN AND MACHINES AROUND, 02:56.834 --> 02:58.868 align:start IT CAN GET PRETTY QUIET HERE. 02:58.968 --> 03:05.534 align:start BUT VISUALLY THERE'S A LOT THAT SUGGESTS ANYTHING BUT SERENITY. 03:05.634 --> 03:08.701 align:start A FEW THOUSAND YEARS AGO, 03:08.801 --> 03:11.367 align:start THIS WAS THE SCENE OF SOME EARTHSHAKING VIOLENCE. 03:11.467 --> 03:42.334 align:start [SOUNDS OF ERUPTIONS] 03:42.434 --> 03:44.567 align:start THIS SURE MAKES FOR TOUGH WALKING, DAVE. 03:44.667 --> 03:46.834 align:start YEAH, I THINK ALL THIS LOOSE CLINKER LAVA'S 03:46.934 --> 03:49.934 align:start JUST ABOUT LIKE IT WAS WHEN IT FIRST CAME OUT OF THE VOLCANO. 03:50.033 --> 03:53.033 align:start WHAT MUST THIS HAVE LOOKED LIKE DURING AN ERUPTION? 03:53.133 --> 03:55.701 align:start WELL, IT WOULD HAVE BEEN REALLY GIGANTIC AND LOUD. 03:55.801 --> 03:58.033 align:start THERE WOULD HAVE BEEN A LOT OF NOISE FROM THE FIRE FOUNTAIN 03:58.133 --> 04:00.634 align:start IN THE BACKGROUND AS THE VOLCANO ERUPTED. 04:00.734 --> 04:02.234 align:start THEN THERE ALSO WOULD HAVE BEEN A LOT OF NOISE FROM 04:02.334 --> 04:09.067 align:start THIS CLINKERY SOUND THAT WE'RE MAKING AS OUR FEET GO ACROSS IT. 04:09.167 --> 04:11.267 align:start WHEN I TRY TO MULTIPLY THIS BY THE WHOLE SIZE OF THIS 04:11.367 --> 04:14.434 align:start LAVA FIELD, AND YOU CAN IMAGINE THE SOUND THAT IT WOULD HAVE. 04:14.534 --> 04:16.367 align:start A DEAFENING ROAR. YEAH. 04:16.467 --> 04:18.667 align:start WELL, THE LAVA WOULD HAVE FLOWED DOWN THE MOUNTAIN 04:18.767 --> 04:21.000 align:start AND SORT OF GONE AROUND LITTLE HILLS AND MESAS 04:21.100 --> 04:24.234 align:start AND GONE BACK INTO ITSELF AND SO ON AND JUST MADE LIKE A RIVER. 04:24.334 --> 04:26.033 align:start YOU WOULD HAVE SEEN THE RED, TOO, 04:26.133 --> 04:28.434 align:start SHOWING HERE AND THERE WHERE THE CLINKER AND THE CINDERS 04:28.534 --> 04:31.267 align:start MOVED ASIDE AND SPLIT OPEN AND CROSSED OVER 04:31.367 --> 04:33.868 align:start AND GET BLACK AGAIN. 04:33.968 --> 04:36.234 align:start HOW HOT WOULD THIS LAVA HAVE BEEN, DAVE? 04:36.334 --> 04:37.734 align:start WELL, IT WOULD HAVE COME OUT OF THE VOLCANO 04:37.834 --> 04:39.767 align:start AT ABOUT TWO THOUSAND DEGREES FAHRENHEIT. 04:39.868 --> 04:41.467 align:start THEN, OF COURSE, IT COOLS FROM THERE ON ITS WAY 04:41.567 --> 04:44.167 align:start DOWN THE MOUNTAIN, UNTIL BY THE TIME IT'S DOWN TO HERE 04:44.267 --> 04:47.234 align:start YOU MIGHT HAVE PICKED ONE OF THESE UP WITH A PAIR OF GLOVES 04:47.334 --> 04:51.834 align:start AND HELD IT. 04:51.934 --> 04:54.834 align:start YEAH, THE OTHER CORRECT NAME FOR THIS STUFF IS ACTUALLY "'A 'A" 04:54.934 --> 04:57.934 align:start WHICH IS THE HAWAIIAN WORD FOR WHAT THEY SAY 04:58.033 --> 05:00.234 align:start WHEN THEY WALK IT ACROSS WITH THEIR BARE FEET. 05:00.334 --> 05:07.033 align:start AND THAT'S REALLY HOW THIS STUFF WAS NAMED. 05:07.133 --> 05:09.667 align:start I GUESS RIGHT HERE, DAVE, WE'RE IN THE HEART 05:09.767 --> 05:11.434 align:start OF THE SONORAN DESERT, AREN'T WE? 05:11.534 --> 05:13.267 align:start YOU COULD CERTAINLY SAY THAT, YES. 05:13.367 --> 05:16.434 align:start AND I CALL THIS BIG VOLCANO THAT WE'RE WALKING UP 05:16.534 --> 05:19.000 align:start THE HEARTBEAT OF THIS DESERT. 05:19.100 --> 05:25.634 align:start AND THE REASON I DO THAT IS BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, 05:25.734 --> 05:27.100 align:start WHEN THE EARTH FIRST FORMED ABOUT FOUR BILLION YEARS AGO, 05:27.200 --> 05:28.501 align:start THERE WAS THING THAT HAPPENED CALLED "THE IRON CATASTROPHE" 05:28.601 --> 05:30.067 align:start WHERE MOST OF THE IRON OF THE EARTH SUNK DOWN 05:30.167 --> 05:33.033 align:start TO THE EARTH'S CORE, LIKE THE YOLK OF AN EGG. YEAH. 05:33.133 --> 05:35.634 align:start WHAT WAS LEFT IN THE CRUST WASN'T TOO MUCH. 05:35.734 --> 05:39.267 align:start AND NOW IF WE WANT TO GET AN APPRECIABLE AMOUNT OF IRON 05:39.367 --> 05:41.601 align:start UP HERE IN THE CRUST OF THE EARTH, THE WAY IT COMES OUT 05:41.701 --> 05:45.234 align:start IS IN THE FORM OF ALL THIS LAVA RIGHT HERE. 05:45.334 --> 05:48.501 align:start DAVE, IS THERE A RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THIS BARREN LOOKING LAVA 05:48.601 --> 05:51.901 align:start AND LIVING THINGS, PLANTS AND ANIMALS? 05:52.000 --> 05:53.300 align:start WELL, THERE SURE IS. 05:53.400 --> 05:57.634 align:start WHEN YOU THINK ABOUT THE LAVA PROVIDING THE IRON, 05:57.734 --> 06:01.801 align:start IT PUTS IT IN THE SOIL AND THEN THE PLANTS CAN GROW IN THE SOIL 06:01.901 --> 06:03.133 align:start AND THEY'LL PICK UP SOME OF THAT IRON. 06:03.234 --> 06:04.934 align:start YOU KNOW, A LOT OF PLANTS ARE IRON RICH 06:05.033 --> 06:08.601 align:start AND PEOPLE LIKE TO EAT 'EM, SPINACH AND SO ON. 06:08.701 --> 06:13.601 align:start AND WHAT HAPPENS THEN IS THE IRON CAN GET INTO YOUR BLOOD 06:13.701 --> 06:15.467 align:start AND AGAIN GIVE YOU THE HEMOGLOBIN THAT YOU NEED 06:15.567 --> 06:17.167 align:start IN ORDER TO CARRY OXYGEN TO THE CELLS OF YOUR BODY. 06:17.267 --> 06:20.767 align:start YOU WOULDN'T BE NEEDING TO CARRY THAT OXYGEN TO YOUR BODY, 06:20.868 --> 06:22.767 align:start THOUGH, IF THERE WASN'T ANY OXYGEN HERE, 06:22.868 --> 06:25.968 align:start AND IT'S THE PLANTS THAT PUT THE OXYGEN 06:26.067 --> 06:28.267 align:start INTO THE ATMOSPHERE OF THE EARTH IN THE FIRST PLACE. 06:28.367 --> 06:31.801 align:start THERE WAS NO OXYGEN HERE PRIOR TO PLANTS PHOTOSYNTHESIZING 06:31.901 --> 06:33.868 align:start AND PUTTING OXYGEN INTO THE ATMOSPHERE. 06:33.968 --> 06:35.968 align:start ONCE THAT OXYGEN WAS HERE, IT WAS AVAILABLE 06:36.067 --> 06:38.400 align:start FOR AN ANIMAL THEORETICALLY TO BREATHE, 06:38.501 --> 06:40.100 align:start BUT IT WOULDN'T HAVE DONE AN ANIMAL ANY GOOD 06:40.200 --> 06:44.000 align:start TO DO THAT WITHOUT IRON FROM, ESSENTIALLY FROM A VOLCANO 06:44.100 --> 06:45.634 align:start OR FROM THE HEART OF THE EARTH. 06:45.734 --> 06:49.100 align:start IN SPITE OF ITS DEAD LOOKING APPEARANCE IT SUSTAINS LIFE. 06:49.200 --> 06:50.067 align:start ABSOLUTELY. 06:50.167 --> 06:52.767 align:start AND IT HELPS IT IN MANY DIFFERENT WAYS. 06:52.868 --> 06:56.100 align:start WE SAID THIS PLACE WAS ALIVE AND AT THIS POINT 06:56.200 --> 06:58.734 align:start IT MAY NOT SEEM VERY HOSPITABLE. 06:58.834 --> 07:00.701 align:start NOT WHEN THE GROUND WE'RE WALKING ON ACTS 07:00.801 --> 07:03.367 align:start LIKE BIG CHUNKS OF BROKEN CHINA. 07:03.467 --> 07:05.567 align:start BUT THAT'S JUST FOR PEOPLE WALKING 07:05.667 --> 07:07.434 align:start AND THERE AREN'T MANY PEOPLE HERE. 07:07.534 --> 07:13.601 align:start FOR SOME LIVING THINGS, THIS TERRITORY IS JUST DANDY. 07:13.701 --> 07:17.601 align:start MARK, WHAT KIND OF PLANTS ARE UNIQUE TO THIS AREA? 07:17.701 --> 07:19.200 align:start BOTANICALLY SPEAKING, THERE'S NOT REALLY MUCH 07:19.300 --> 07:21.400 align:start UNIQUE ABOUT THE PLANTS THEMSELVES. 07:21.501 --> 07:23.634 align:start THE VEGETATION TELLS AN INTERESTING STORY, THOUGH. 07:23.734 --> 07:26.200 align:start PRIMARILY BECAUSE WE ARE HERE IN THE CENTER OF THE SONORAN DESERT 07:26.300 --> 07:30.100 align:start AND MORE IMPORTANTLY AT THE VERY DRIEST SECTION OF THE 07:30.200 --> 07:33.000 align:start SONORAN DESERT IN THE LOWER COLORADO VALLEY SUBDIVISION. 07:33.100 --> 07:34.200 align:start UH-HUH. 07:34.300 --> 07:35.968 align:start SO THE VEGETATION THAT GROWS HERE ARE THE SPECIES 07:36.067 --> 07:38.601 align:start THAT ARE THE TOLERANT OF THE MOST DROUGHT. 07:38.701 --> 07:41.868 align:start THERE'S AN AWFUL LOT OF THESE GRAY LOOKING PLANTS AROUND HERE. 07:41.968 --> 07:44.367 align:start THE GRAY MOUNDS ARE BRITTLE BUSH. 07:44.467 --> 07:47.634 align:start AND THEY'RE COMMON THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE SONORAN DESERT, 07:47.734 --> 07:50.200 align:start BUT THE DRYER THE HABITAT THE MORE ABUNDANT THEY ARE. 07:50.300 --> 07:52.901 align:start PROBABLY BECAUSE THE COMPETITION DROPS OUT. 07:53.000 --> 07:57.133 align:start AND HERE IT'S DEFINITELY THE MOST ABUNDANT PLANT. 07:57.234 --> 08:00.300 align:start THIS LOOKS A LOT LIKE AN ORGAN PIPE CACTUS, MARK. 08:00.400 --> 08:03.200 align:start YES, IT DOES. IT HAS THE SAME GROWTH FORM IN THAT IT BRANCHES 08:03.300 --> 08:06.067 align:start FROM THE BASE AND DOESN'T BRANCH MUCH ABOVE GROUND. 08:06.167 --> 08:09.033 align:start BUT IT'S ANOTHER SPECIES CALLED SENITA. 08:09.133 --> 08:11.467 align:start AND SENITA BASICALLY TRANSLATES "LITTLE OLD LADY" 08:11.567 --> 08:12.734 align:start OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. 08:12.834 --> 08:14.033 align:start IT'S CALLED THAT BECAUSE THE UPPER STEMS, 08:14.133 --> 08:16.701 align:start WHEN THEY MATURE, DEVELOP A LONG BRISTLY SPINE. 08:16.801 --> 08:19.601 align:start PRESUMABLY THAT FUNCTION IS TO KEEP ANIMALS 08:19.701 --> 08:21.767 align:start FROM CRAWLING UP THE STEM AND EATING THE FLOWERS 08:21.868 --> 08:23.734 align:start WHICH OCCUR ONLY ON THAT BRISTLY PART. 08:23.834 --> 08:25.467 align:start BOY, THAT'S A LOT OF PROTECTION. 08:25.567 --> 08:26.567 align:start IT LOOKS PRETTY AFFECTIVE TO ME. 08:26.667 --> 08:28.868 align:start ONLY FLYING ANIMALS CAN GET AT THOSE FLOWERS. 08:28.968 --> 08:31.367 align:start BATS AND MOTHS PROBABLY POLLINATE IT. 08:31.467 --> 08:34.133 align:start WHAT OTHER KIND OF PLANTS DO WE SEE AROUND HERE? 08:34.234 --> 08:36.067 align:start CREOSOTE IS PROBABLY THE MOST INTERESTING PLANT 08:36.167 --> 08:37.968 align:start IN THE WHOLE SONORAN DESERT. 08:38.100 --> 08:41.367 align:start A LOT OF PEOPLE THINK ME CRAZY TO HEAR ME SAY THAT, 08:41.467 --> 08:43.167 align:start BECAUSE IT'S SO ABUNDANT PEOPLE DON'T THINK ABOUT IT. 08:43.267 --> 08:45.667 align:start IT'S THE MOST COMMON PLANT IN THE SONORAN DESERT. 08:45.767 --> 08:47.634 align:start IT'S ALSO THE MOST COMMON PLANT IN THE CHIHUAHUA 08:47.734 --> 08:49.634 align:start AND MOJAVE DESERTS, SO IT'S ABUNDANT IN THREE 08:49.734 --> 08:51.501 align:start OF THE FOUR NORTH AMERICAN DESERTS. 08:51.601 --> 08:54.234 align:start IT'S NOT EVEN NATIVE TO THIS AREA, HOWEVER. 08:54.334 --> 08:55.667 align:start IT AROSE IN ARGENTINA. 08:55.767 --> 08:57.868 align:start AND SOMEHOW IT GOT UP HERE TO NORTH AMERICAN 08:57.968 --> 08:59.200 align:start MILLIONS OF YEARS AGO. 08:59.300 --> 09:02.634 align:start BUT IT GOT UP HERE ON ITS OWN FROM A SOUTH AMERICAN ORIGIN. 09:02.734 --> 09:04.934 align:start I'VE HEARD THESE PLANTS ARE REALLY OLD, MARK. 09:05.033 --> 09:06.767 align:start IS THAT TRUE? APPARENTLY IT IS. 09:06.868 --> 09:09.534 align:start YOU CAN'T DATE THESE DIRECTLY BY TREE RING COUNTING 09:09.634 --> 09:11.834 align:start AS YOU CAN WITH THINGS WITH BIG TRUNKS OR BY 09:11.934 --> 09:16.467 align:start DIRECT CARBON DATING OF REMNANT STEMS BECAUSE THEY DISAPPEAR. 09:16.567 --> 09:18.200 align:start BUT THERE ARE OTHER WAYS OF ESTIMATING THE AGE 09:18.300 --> 09:20.300 align:start OF THESE THINGS AND THEY'RE OBVIOUSLY CAPABLE 09:20.400 --> 09:22.400 align:start OF LIVING THOUSANDS OF YEARS. 09:22.501 --> 09:25.434 align:start AND SOME OF THE OLDEST ONES IN THE MOJAVE DESERT 09:25.534 --> 09:30.667 align:start ARE APPARENTLY AS MUCH AS TEN OR EVEN ELEVEN THOUSAND YEARS OLD. 09:30.767 --> 09:33.234 align:start IF THIS LITTLE BUSH IS THOUSANDS OF YEARS OLD, 09:33.334 --> 09:35.100 align:start HOW OLD ARE SOME OF THESE TREES? 09:35.200 --> 09:36.834 align:start WELL, THE ANSWERS KIND OF ANTI-CLIMACTIC, 09:36.934 --> 09:38.234 align:start BECAUSE MOST OF THE TREES APPARENTLY 09:38.334 --> 09:39.801 align:start DON'T LIVE NEARLY THAT LONG. 09:39.901 --> 09:41.567 align:start FIRST OF ALL, MANY OF THE TREES IN OUR REGION 09:41.667 --> 09:43.100 align:start HAVE NEVER BEEN DATED. 09:43.200 --> 09:45.267 align:start AND A NUMBER OF THEM, LIKE THIS ELEPHANT TREE HERE, 09:45.367 --> 09:46.834 align:start CAN'T BE DATED. 09:46.934 --> 09:49.534 align:start IT DOESN'T HAVE NORMAL GROWTH RINGS. 09:49.634 --> 09:51.734 align:start WHEN IT DIES, IT'S MOSTLY WATER STORAGE TISSUE. 09:51.834 --> 09:55.334 align:start WHEN THIS TREE DIES, IT VIRTUALLY ROTS AWAY INTO NOTHING 09:55.434 --> 09:57.834 align:start AND PAPERY STUFF IN A COUPLE OF YEARS. 09:57.934 --> 10:00.000 align:start AND WE HAVE NO IDEA HOW OLD IT IS. 10:00.100 --> 10:01.334 align:start THERE'S NO WAY TO TELL. 10:01.434 --> 10:03.267 align:start YOU KNOW, MARK, I'VE LIVED IN THE DESERT FOR YEARS 10:03.367 --> 10:04.734 align:start AND I'VE NEVER SEEN AN ELEPHANT HERE, 10:04.834 --> 10:07.767 align:start SO WHY DO THEY CALL THAT AN ELEPHANT TREE? 10:07.868 --> 10:09.767 align:start THERE HAVEN'T BEEN ANY HERE SINCE THE ICE AGE ANYWAY. 10:09.868 --> 10:13.701 align:start IT'S CALLED AN ELEPHANT TREE BECAUSE OF ITS THICK STEMS. 10:13.801 --> 10:14.868 align:start IT'S A SUCCULENT PLANT. 10:14.968 --> 10:17.067 align:start IT'S STORING WATER IN THOSE STEMS AND THAT WATER 10:17.167 --> 10:19.567 align:start STORAGE TISSUE MAKES THE TRUNK AND THE MAJOR STEMS 10:19.667 --> 10:21.334 align:start MUCH LARGER THAN YOU WOULD EXPECT THEM TO BE 10:21.434 --> 10:25.634 align:start FOR A TREE OF THIS SIZE. 10:25.734 --> 10:26.701 align:start SO IT HAS, TO SOME PEOPLE APPARENTLY 10:26.801 --> 10:28.534 align:start IT LOOKS LIKE AN ELEPHANT'S LEGS OR TRUNKS. 10:28.634 --> 10:30.434 align:start ELEPHANT TREES ARE ANOTHER TROPICAL MEMBER 10:30.534 --> 10:32.000 align:start OF THE SONORAN DESERT FLORA, 10:32.100 --> 10:34.567 align:start OF WHICH ALMOST ALL OF OUR PERENNIAL PLANTS ARE. 10:34.667 --> 10:36.400 align:start THIS IS A PRETTY GOOD SIZE TREE 10:36.501 --> 10:38.767 align:start FOR FIVE OR SIX INCHES OF RAIN A YEAR. 10:38.868 --> 10:40.534 align:start WHAT LIMITS IS THAT JUST ABOUT FIFTY MILES NORTH OF HERE 10:40.634 --> 10:41.701 align:start THERE'S TOO MUCH FROST. 10:41.801 --> 10:44.434 align:start AND TROPICAL PLANTS JUST CANNOT TOLERATE FROST. 10:44.534 --> 10:47.400 align:start WHEN I THINK OF DESERT, I DON'T EXPECT TO SEE TREES. 10:47.501 --> 10:49.868 align:start IT'S BECAUSE MOST DESERTS ARE IN FACT TREELESS 10:49.968 --> 10:51.367 align:start OR VIRTUALLY TREELESS. 10:51.467 --> 10:52.667 align:start THERE ARE ALMOST NO TREES IN THE OTHER 10:52.767 --> 10:54.868 align:start THREE OF THE FOUR NORTH AMERICAN DESERTS. 10:54.968 --> 10:56.801 align:start HERE, WE'RE IN A TROPICAL DESERT. 10:56.901 --> 11:00.667 align:start ITS ORIGIN IS IN SOUTHERN SONORA AND A DECIDUOUS TROPICAL FOREST. 11:00.767 --> 11:03.434 align:start AND, IN FACT, MOST OF THE AREA THAT WE CALL THE SONORAN DESERT, 11:03.534 --> 11:05.801 align:start MOST PEOPLE DON'T REALLY CONSIDER A TRUE DESERT. 11:05.901 --> 11:07.567 align:start IT'S JUST TOO WET AND TOO LUSH. 11:07.667 --> 11:10.501 align:start HERE IN THE PINACATE, THE FIVE OR SIX INCHES OF RAINFALL, 11:10.601 --> 11:13.067 align:start AND EVEN DOWN TO TWO INCHES IN SOME OF THE DRIER AREAS, 11:13.167 --> 11:15.067 align:start MOST PEOPLE WILL AGREE IS REALLY A DESERT. 11:15.167 --> 11:16.801 align:start BUT SOME OF THE TREES CAN STILL TOLERATE THAT 11:16.901 --> 11:22.267 align:start AS LONG AS THEY DON'T GET TOO MUCH FROST. 11:22.367 --> 11:25.801 align:start FROST-FREE WOULD BE THE MAIN SELLING POINT TO ANIMALS, TOO, 11:25.901 --> 11:28.534 align:start IF THERE WERE BROCHURES PROMOTING THIS DESERT. 11:28.634 --> 11:32.534 align:start HOWEVER, I'D ADVISE SMALL ANIMALS CONSIDERING A MOVE HERE, 11:32.634 --> 11:34.634 align:start TO THROW OUT ALL THEIR LIGHT COLORED CLOTHES 11:34.734 --> 11:36.133 align:start EVEN THOUGH IT'S HOT. 11:36.234 --> 11:38.167 align:start AS WE'LL SEE, THE DARKER STYLES 11:38.267 --> 11:40.968 align:start CAN BE A SERIOUS, PRACTICAL MATTER. 11:41.067 --> 11:45.200 align:start HOWARD, RIGHT HERE IN THE HEART OF THE PINACATE, 11:45.300 --> 11:48.000 align:start WHAT KIND OF REPTILES CAN WE FIND? 11:48.100 --> 11:50.334 align:start WELL, THE REPTILES OCCURRING HERE ARE FAIRLY TYPICAL 11:50.434 --> 11:53.234 align:start THROUGHOUT THE LOWER COLORADO RIVER VALLEY 11:53.334 --> 11:55.300 align:start SUBDIVISION OF THE SONORAN DESERT. 11:55.400 --> 11:59.834 align:start AND IN THIS SUBDIVISION WE HAVE BROAD, FLAT VALLEYS, 11:59.934 --> 12:03.467 align:start WE HAVE DUNES, AND WE HAVE THESE ROCKY, 12:03.567 --> 12:07.734 align:start VERY DRY MOUNTAINS COMPRISED CHIEFLY OF GRANITE 12:07.834 --> 12:10.033 align:start OR, AS WE SEE HERE IN THE PINACATE, 12:10.133 --> 12:13.467 align:start OFTEN COMPOSED OF LAVA. 12:13.567 --> 12:19.868 align:start GENERALLY, THESE REPTILES WHICH OCCUPY THESE ROCKY HABITATS 12:19.968 --> 12:23.734 align:start VERY NICELY DEMONSTRATE THIS CONCEPT OF BACKGROUND MATCHING, 12:23.834 --> 12:25.634 align:start WHICH IS A FUNCTION OF NATURAL SELECTION 12:25.734 --> 12:29.701 align:start WHERE THOSE OVER TIME WHICH STAND OUT IN CONTRAST 12:29.801 --> 12:33.534 align:start TO THE COLOR OF THE ROCKS, ARE PICKED OFF BY PREDATORS, 12:33.634 --> 12:36.267 align:start LEAVING THOSE WHICH HAVE DARKER COLORATION 12:36.367 --> 12:37.501 align:start WHICH BLEND MORE EFFECTIVELY. 12:37.601 --> 12:41.901 align:start AND OVER TIME THE ENTIRE POPULATIONS TAKE ON A VERY DARK 12:42.000 --> 12:46.267 align:start APPEARANCE WHICH RENDERS THEM MUCH MORE DIFFICULT TO SEE. 12:46.367 --> 12:48.868 align:start THERE'S NOT MUCH THEN THAT'S UNIQUE TO THE PINACATE. 12:48.968 --> 12:50.968 align:start IT'S JUST THE COLORATIONS AND ADAPTATIONS? 12:51.067 --> 12:52.167 align:start THAT'S RIGHT. 12:52.267 --> 12:54.834 align:start AND THAT, OF COURSE, IS DIRECTLY RELATED TO THIS 12:54.934 --> 13:00.000 align:start DYNAMIC GEOLOGIC ACTIVITY HERE THROUGH VOLCANISM. 13:00.100 --> 13:04.534 align:start HOW ABOUT ANIMALS IN THIS AREA, DO WE SEE COYOTES AND BOBCATS? 13:04.634 --> 13:08.200 align:start COYOTES ARE QUITE PREVALENT HERE, 13:08.300 --> 13:13.234 align:start FEEDING OF COURSE ON SMALL MAMMALS, RABBITS, SMALL RODENTS. 13:13.334 --> 13:16.634 align:start KANGAROO MICE? PACKRATS, THAT TYPE OF THING. 13:16.734 --> 13:18.367 align:start THEY ALSO EAT REPTILES. 13:18.467 --> 13:20.501 align:start AND WHEN THEY CAN CATCH A SNAKE OR A LIZARD, 13:20.601 --> 13:24.734 align:start THEY'RE VERY HAPPY TO DO SO. SURE. 13:24.834 --> 13:27.634 align:start AROUND THE EDGES EDGES OF THE PINACATE, 13:27.734 --> 13:33.667 align:start WE FIND A VAST DUNES AREA CALLED IN MEXICO THE GRANDE CIERTO. 13:33.767 --> 13:36.367 align:start AND IT EXTENDS INTO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA AND THERE 13:36.467 --> 13:40.567 align:start IT'S CALLED THE ALGODONES DUNES OR COTTON DUNES. 13:40.667 --> 13:44.567 align:start BUT IT'S AN EXTENSIVE LOOSE SHIFTING DUNES FORMATION 13:44.667 --> 13:47.467 align:start THAT GRADUALLY GRADES INTO DESERT PAVEMENT 13:47.567 --> 13:48.667 align:start AROUND THE EDGES. 13:48.767 --> 13:51.200 align:start AND HERE WE HAVE A VERY UNIQUE 13:51.300 --> 13:55.734 align:start AND HIGHLY SPECIALIZED REPTILIAN FAUNA. 13:55.834 --> 13:58.767 align:start THERE ARE SOME SPECIES WHICH LIVE ENTIRELY ON THE DUNES, 13:58.868 --> 14:00.734 align:start LIKE THE FRINGE TOED LIZARD, 14:00.834 --> 14:04.000 align:start WHICH IS UNIQUELY ADAPTED FOR THIS TYPE OF HABITAT. 14:04.100 --> 14:05.367 align:start WE DON'T SEE HIM UP HERE, THEN? 14:05.467 --> 14:06.834 align:start WE'RE NOT GOING TO SEE HIM IN THE ROCKY AREA, 14:06.934 --> 14:09.801 align:start OR EVEN VERY COMMONLY ON THE DESERT PAVEMENT 14:09.901 --> 14:11.834 align:start SURROUNDING THE DUNES. 14:11.934 --> 14:15.934 align:start BUT THEY'RE LARGELY RESTRICTED TO THIS LOOSE SHIFTING SAND, 14:16.033 --> 14:20.234 align:start WHERE THESE LONG FRINGE LIKE SCALES 14:20.334 --> 14:24.734 align:start ON THEIR TOES FUNCTION VERY MUCH LIKE SAND SHOES, IF YOU WILL, 14:24.834 --> 14:27.667 align:start OR SNOW SHOES IN THE SAND. 14:27.767 --> 14:29.067 align:start AND IT HELPS THEM GET BOTH TRACTION AND KEEP FROM 14:29.167 --> 14:32.334 align:start GETTING MIRED DOWN IN THE LOOSE SAND. 14:32.434 --> 14:35.601 align:start THE FRINGE TOED LIZARD ALSO HAS A COUNTERSUNK LOWER JAW, 14:35.701 --> 14:36.734 align:start A WEDGE SHAPED HEAD, 14:36.834 --> 14:38.300 align:start SO THAT WHEN IT'S PURSUED BY PREDATORS, 14:38.400 --> 14:41.634 align:start OR IT SIMPLY WANTS TO GET AWAY FROM THE HEAT ON THE SURFACE, 14:41.734 --> 14:44.534 align:start THEY CAN RUN ALONG AND DIVE RIGHT INTO THE SAND 14:44.634 --> 14:46.400 align:start AND THEN THEY'LL SHIMMY ALONG AND LITERALLY SWIM 14:46.501 --> 14:48.200 align:start BENEATH THE SURFACE SOME DISTANCE 14:48.300 --> 14:50.067 align:start FROM THE POINT WHERE THEY ENTER IT. YEAH. 14:50.167 --> 14:51.634 align:start SO, IF THEY'RE BEING PURSUED BY A PREDATOR, 14:51.734 --> 14:53.334 align:start THE PREDATOR'S LIKELY TO START DIGGING AROUND 14:53.434 --> 14:55.534 align:start WHERE THEY SAW THE LIZARD DISAPPEAR IN THE SAND 14:55.634 --> 15:00.400 align:start AND THE LIZARD'S SEVERAL FEET AWAY BY THEN. 15:00.501 --> 15:03.534 align:start THE SIDEWINDERS OCCUR IN THE DUNES AND ALSO ON THE FLATS 15:03.634 --> 15:05.100 align:start HAVE A RATHER WIDE DISTRIBUTION THROUGHOUT 15:05.200 --> 15:10.234 align:start THE LOWER COLORADO RIVER VALLEY SUBDIVISION. 15:10.334 --> 15:13.701 align:start THE SIDEWINDERS ARE UNIQUELY ADAPTED FOR MOVING ON SAND. 15:13.801 --> 15:16.901 align:start IN FACT, THAT'S WHERE THE SIDE WINDING LOCOMOTION 15:17.000 --> 15:18.734 align:start ACTUALLY EVOLVED. 15:18.834 --> 15:25.701 align:start AND IT'S ESSENTIALLY A METHOD OF WALKING ACROSS THE SAND 15:25.801 --> 15:27.534 align:start WITH ONLY TWO POINTS OF THE SNAKE'S BODY 15:27.634 --> 15:30.067 align:start IN CONTACT WITH THE SURFACE AT ANY GIVEN TIME. 15:30.167 --> 15:33.067 align:start AND, IF YOU'VE EVER SEEN THE TRACKS OF A SIDEWINDER, 15:33.167 --> 15:36.868 align:start YOU NOTICE THAT IT'S A SERIES OF TRANSVERSE 15:36.968 --> 15:40.501 align:start J SHAPED MARKS THAT AREN'T CONNECTED TO EACH OTHER. 15:40.601 --> 15:42.334 align:start THERE'S A LITTLE SPACE BETWEEN 'EM. 15:42.434 --> 15:44.300 align:start AND THAT TELLS US RIGHT THERE THAT THE SNAKE 15:44.400 --> 15:46.434 align:start HAS ACTUALLY ELEVATED THE BODY AND PLANTED IT 15:46.534 --> 15:50.100 align:start AND THEN ROLLED THE COIL FORWARD AND REPEATED THAT PROCESS 15:50.200 --> 15:52.601 align:start AS IT MOVES ACROSS THE SAND, 15:52.701 --> 15:54.734 align:start LITERALLY WALKING ON THESE TWO CONTACT POINTS. 15:54.834 --> 15:56.868 align:start THAT'S HIS METHOD OF TIPTOEING THROUGH THAT HOT SAND? 15:56.968 --> 15:57.968 align:start THAT'S EXACTLY RIGHT. 15:58.067 --> 16:01.000 align:start BY KEEPING, PROBABLY NINETY PERCENT OF THE BODY 16:01.100 --> 16:02.901 align:start OFF THE SURFACE AT ANY GIVEN TIME, 16:03.000 --> 16:07.000 align:start THAT REDUCES THE RATE OF BODY HEATING FROM THE SURFACE. 16:07.100 --> 16:12.767 align:start AND IN CERTAIN SITUATIONS THAT EXTENDS THE OPPORTUNITY 16:12.868 --> 16:14.701 align:start FOR ACTIVITY FOR THE SIDEWINDER. 16:14.801 --> 16:16.467 align:start SURPRISINGLY, DESERT SNAKES, 16:16.567 --> 16:18.334 align:start EVEN THOSE OCCURRING IN THE HOTTEST PARTS 16:18.434 --> 16:22.267 align:start OF THE SONORAN DESERT, WILL DIE VERY QUICKLY 16:22.367 --> 16:25.067 align:start IF THEIR BODY TEMPERATURES EXCEED ABOUT NINETY-FIVE DEGREES 16:25.167 --> 16:30.167 align:start FAHRENHEIT FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME. 16:30.267 --> 16:33.234 align:start IS THERE ANY OTHER SNAKE THAT'S ACTIVE IN THE SAND? 16:33.334 --> 16:35.234 align:start WELL, ANOTHER ONE THAT COMES TO MIND, 16:35.334 --> 16:39.167 align:start USING A LITTLE DIFFERENT ADAPTIVE STRATEGY TO COPE 16:39.267 --> 16:41.634 align:start WITH THE LOOSE SAND IN THE DUNES, 16:41.734 --> 16:44.267 align:start IS THE SHOVEL NOSE SNAKE. 16:44.367 --> 16:46.667 align:start NOW THAT'S A SNAKE THAT HAS DEVELOPED 16:46.767 --> 16:52.300 align:start THE SAME PHYSICAL TRAITS THAT WE SEE IN THE FRINGE TOED LIZARD 16:52.400 --> 16:54.400 align:start WITH REGARD TO THE HEAD SHAPE, 16:54.501 --> 16:58.400 align:start THE WEDGE SHAPED HEAD, COUNTERSUNK LOWER JAW, LITTLE 16:58.501 --> 17:01.968 align:start NASAL VALVES THAT CAN CLOSE TO KEEP THE SAND GRAINS OUT. 17:02.067 --> 17:05.267 align:start AND THESE LITTLE SNAKES ARE VERY ADEPT AT SWIMMING 17:05.367 --> 17:06.968 align:start BENEATH THE SURFACE OF THE SAND. 17:07.067 --> 17:09.534 align:start NOW, THEY DO COME TO THE SURFACE UNDER THE RIGHT CONDITIONS. 17:09.634 --> 17:11.834 align:start SOMETIMES WE'LL SEE THEIR TRACKS ON THE SURFACE OF THE DUNES 17:11.934 --> 17:16.067 align:start IN THE MORNING BEFORE THE WIND OBSCURES THEM. 17:16.167 --> 17:17.067 align:start THEY DON'T SIDEWIND, DO THEY? 17:17.167 --> 17:19.200 align:start THEY DON'T SIDEWIND, THEY GENERALLY CRAWL 17:19.300 --> 17:21.968 align:start IN MORE OR LESS TYPICAL SERPENTINE FASHION. 17:22.067 --> 17:25.334 align:start BUT THEY GENERALLY DO IT BENEATH THE SURFACE OF THE SAND. 17:25.434 --> 17:27.767 align:start BECAUSE THERE'S NO SURFACE COVER IN THE DUNES, 17:27.868 --> 17:29.234 align:start OR AT LEAST IT'S VERY SPARSE. 17:29.334 --> 17:30.801 align:start THERE ARE SCATTERED SHRUBS AND PLANTS, 17:30.901 --> 17:33.934 align:start BUT IT'S A VERY OPEN HABITAT. 17:34.033 --> 17:39.634 align:start SO THEY HAVE TO USE THE SUBSTRATE ITSELF AS THE COVER. 17:39.734 --> 17:44.133 align:start HOWARD, IT SEEMS TO ME LIKE ANIMALS HERE HAVE ADAPTED 17:44.234 --> 17:45.300 align:start PERFECTLY TO WHAT WE WOULD CONSIDER 17:45.400 --> 17:46.868 align:start EXTREMELY HARD CONDITIONS. 17:46.968 --> 17:48.234 align:start WELL, IT'S VERY TRUE. 17:48.334 --> 17:50.767 align:start IN FACT, IF WE TOOK MOST OF THESE ANIMALS WE'VE TALKED ABOUT 17:50.868 --> 17:55.300 align:start OUT OF THE LOWER COLORADO RIVER VALLEY SUBDIVISION, 17:55.400 --> 17:56.634 align:start PUT 'EM SOMEWHERE ELSE, 17:56.734 --> 17:58.234 align:start THEY WOULDN'T FARE NEARLY AS WELL, 17:58.334 --> 17:59.968 align:start IN FACT IN MOST CASES THEY WOULDN'T SURVIVE AT ALL. 18:00.067 --> 18:14.601 align:start [BIRDS SINGING] 18:14.701 --> 18:16.033 align:start AS DRY AS IT IS, 18:16.133 --> 18:20.100 align:start NONE OF THE LIVING THINGS WOULD BE HERE WITHOUT SOME WATER. 18:20.200 --> 18:22.100 align:start AND THE SUBJECT OF WATER, SURPRISINGLY, 18:22.200 --> 18:28.634 align:start TAKES US BACK TO THE FIERY VOLCANOES. 18:28.734 --> 18:31.367 align:start IN ADDITION TO LAVA, THERE MUST HAVE BEEN GASES AND STEAM 18:31.467 --> 18:32.801 align:start POURING OUT OF THAT VOLCANO? 18:32.901 --> 18:34.400 align:start YEAH, THERE WERE, ACTUALLY. 18:34.501 --> 18:36.434 align:start MOST BIG VOLCANOES, WHEN YOU SEE 'EM ERUPT, 18:36.534 --> 18:38.501 align:start HAVE A GIANT KIND OF CAULIFLOWER SHAPED CLOUD 18:38.601 --> 18:39.868 align:start COMING UP TO THE TOP OF IT. 18:39.968 --> 18:42.400 align:start AND USUALLY THAT'S MORE STEAM THAN ANYTHING ELSE. 18:42.501 --> 18:44.467 align:start IN FACT, AN ACTIVE VOLCANO CAN ERUPT MORE STEAM 18:44.567 --> 18:45.701 align:start THAN ANY OTHER SUBSTANCE, EVEN MORE THAN LAVA. 18:45.801 --> 18:49.767 align:start AND IT'S THOUGHT NOW THAT, THAT THE STEAM 18:49.868 --> 18:52.000 align:start THAT COMES OUT OF VOLCANOES IS WHAT ORIGINALLY PROVIDED 18:52.100 --> 18:53.767 align:start ALL THE WATER ON THE SURFACE OF THE EARTH 18:53.868 --> 18:55.701 align:start INCLUDING THE RIVERS AND LAKES AND THE WHOLE OCEAN. 18:55.801 --> 19:02.534 align:start IT ALL CAME OUT OF VOLCANOES IN THE FORM OF WATER. 19:02.634 --> 19:06.968 align:start THERE'S SOME AMAZING SHAPES TO THESE ROCKS OUT HERE. 19:07.067 --> 19:09.534 align:start YEAH, THEY FORM A LOT OF UNIQUE FEATURES, 19:09.634 --> 19:14.367 align:start LAND FORMS AND SO ON, THAT ARE UNIQUE TO A LAVA FIELD. 19:14.467 --> 19:17.868 align:start A REAL GOOD EXAMPLE OF THAT IS THE 'A 'A LAVA THAT 19:17.968 --> 19:20.200 align:start WE WERE TALKING ABOUT EARLIER THAT'S REAL ROUGH AND JAGGED. 19:20.300 --> 19:22.334 align:start THERE'S ANOTHER HAWAIIAN WORD, 19:22.434 --> 19:24.200 align:start THIS ONE'S CALLED "PAHOEHOE." 19:24.300 --> 19:27.634 align:start AND PAHOEHOE IN HAWAIIAN MEANS ROPY. 19:27.734 --> 19:30.501 align:start AND IT'S A LAVA SURFACE THAT LOOKS REAL ROPY 19:30.601 --> 19:32.767 align:start AND KIND OF LIKE IT WAS REAL WET. 19:32.868 --> 19:34.734 align:start AND INDEED, IT DOES COME FROM LAVA THAT WAS VERY HOT 19:34.834 --> 19:36.434 align:start AND VERY RUNNY WHEN IT FORMED, 19:36.534 --> 19:39.234 align:start SO IT FORMS A SLICK, ROPY LOOKING SURFACE. 19:39.334 --> 19:40.934 align:start ANOTHER INTERESTING THING THAT CAN HAPPEN 19:41.033 --> 19:44.400 align:start IS LAVA CAN BE FLOWING DOWN A FLOW AND THE SURFACE 19:44.501 --> 19:48.300 align:start CAN CRUST OVER BUT THE INTERIOR CAN CONTINUE TO FLOW ON THROUGH. 19:48.400 --> 19:50.234 align:start AND WHEN IT FLOWS RIGHT ON OUT THE BOTTOM END, 19:50.334 --> 19:52.834 align:start YOU HAVE A HOLLOW TUBE CALLED A LAVA TUBE. 19:52.934 --> 19:54.000 align:start YOU MEAN IT JUST EMPTIES RIGHT OUT? 19:54.100 --> 19:55.868 align:start IT EMPTIES RIGHT OUT AND YOU HAVE A CAVE IN THE LAVA. 19:55.968 --> 19:57.734 align:start THOSE THINGS CAN BE HUGE, BIG ENOUGH TO RUN 19:57.834 --> 19:59.501 align:start RAILROAD CARS THROUGH OR THEY CAN BE JUST SMALL ENOUGH 19:59.601 --> 20:05.701 align:start TO CRAWL THROUGH LIKE MOST OF THE ONES IN THIS LAVA FIELD. 20:05.801 --> 20:07.667 align:start LAVA BUBBLES CAN FORM WHERE THE SURFACE OF THE LAVA 20:07.767 --> 20:10.501 align:start WHICH IS KIND OF TACKY CAN JUST BE LIFTED UP BY A GAS, 20:10.601 --> 20:12.634 align:start THE GAS PRESSURE INSIDE AND THEN THE ROCK CAN HARDEN 20:12.734 --> 20:14.534 align:start OVER THE TOP AND FORM A BIG BUBBLE BIG ENOUGH 20:14.634 --> 20:17.067 align:start TO JUST SIT ON LIKE A LITTLE CUSHION. 20:17.167 --> 20:19.200 align:start LAVA LEVEES ARE A FEATURE THAT FORMS 20:19.300 --> 20:21.667 align:start AT THE EDGES OF THESE LAVA FLOWS. 20:21.767 --> 20:25.667 align:start WHEN LAVA FLOWS DOWN THE MOUNTAIN, 20:25.767 --> 20:27.634 align:start THE EDGES OF THE LAVA FLOW WOULD COOL FIRST. 20:27.734 --> 20:29.367 align:start AND WHEN THEY COOL, THEY HARDEN AND FORM A HARD KIND OF, 20:29.467 --> 20:33.000 align:start KIND OF A WALL OF ROCK DOWN BOTH SIDES 20:33.100 --> 20:34.868 align:start JUST LIKE A REGULAR LEVEE ON A RIVER. 20:34.968 --> 20:36.767 align:start AND THEN WHEN THE LAVA FLOW SINKS DOWN LATER, 20:36.868 --> 20:39.868 align:start IT LEAVES THOSE HARD EDGES STANDING UP AS A RIDGE 20:39.968 --> 20:46.801 align:start THAT GOES DOWN EITHER SIDE OF THE LAVA FLOW. 20:46.901 --> 20:48.834 align:start THE LIGHT COLORED SAND FOUND AROUND THE PINACATE HERE 20:48.934 --> 20:52.200 align:start REALLY DOES CONTRAST WITH THE DARK COLOR OF THE LAVA. 20:52.300 --> 20:53.167 align:start IT CERTAINLY DOES. 20:53.267 --> 20:55.267 align:start IT COMES FROM A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SOURCE. 20:55.367 --> 20:57.634 align:start THE LAVA OF COURSE IF A VERY FINE GRAINED ROCK 20:57.734 --> 21:00.067 align:start THAT WE CALL BASALT AND WHEN IT WEATHERS AWAY, 21:00.167 --> 21:03.834 align:start THE GRAINS OF IT ARE SO TINY THAT THEY DON'T TURN INTO SAND. 21:03.934 --> 21:05.834 align:start THE SAND THAT'S FOUND AROUND HERE ACTUALLY 21:05.934 --> 21:07.701 align:start CAME DOWN THE COLORADO RIVER AND WAS DUMPED 21:07.801 --> 21:10.834 align:start ON THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA ON THE BEACHES, 21:10.934 --> 21:12.534 align:start AND IT CAME ORIGINALLY FROM, 21:12.634 --> 21:14.667 align:start MOSTLY FROM GRANITE ROCKS THAT WERE FOUND UPSTREAM 21:14.767 --> 21:18.267 align:start UP THE COLORADO RIVER ANYWHERE IN THE REALLY VAST AREA 21:18.367 --> 21:21.934 align:start THAT'S DRAINED BY THE COLORADO, INCLUDING TUCSON, ARIZONA, 21:22.033 --> 21:23.934 align:start AND INCLUDING CLEAR UP IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 21:24.033 --> 21:24.968 align:start WOW, THAT CUT A LONG TRIP. 21:25.100 --> 21:26.267 align:start YEAH, IT'S A LONG TRIP. 21:26.367 --> 21:29.634 align:start AND ALONG THE WAY THE RIVERS AND STREAMS BEAT UP 21:29.734 --> 21:31.534 align:start ALL THE GRANITE AND THE OTHER ROCKS AND 21:31.634 --> 21:35.200 align:start ABOUT THE ONLY THING THAT LASTS THROUGH ALL THIS IS THE QUARTZ. 21:35.300 --> 21:37.734 align:start AND SO BY THE TIME GRAINS MAKE IT DOWN TO A BEACH SOMEWHERE, 21:37.834 --> 21:40.501 align:start THERE'S JUST ABOUT NOTHING LEFT EXCEPT QUARTZ 21:40.601 --> 21:42.000 align:start 'CAUSE THAT'S THE HARDEST MATERIAL. 21:42.100 --> 21:44.267 align:start SO THE BEACH IS ALMOST ENTIRELY MADE OUT OF QUARTZ 21:44.367 --> 21:45.734 align:start DERIVED FROM GRANITE MOUNTAINS WAY, 21:45.834 --> 21:53.567 align:start WAY FAR FROM THE PINACATE VOLCANIC FIELD. 21:53.667 --> 21:56.734 align:start THE CRATERS FORMED BY THE VOLCANO HERE ARE SPECTACULAR. 21:56.834 --> 21:58.334 align:start NOW HOW DID THEY FORM? 21:58.434 --> 22:01.033 align:start WELL, THEY'RE REALLY AMAZING FEATURE IN THAT THESE ARE 22:01.133 --> 22:04.434 align:start THE LARGEST CRATERS FORMED ON THE NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT. 22:04.534 --> 22:06.634 align:start AND THESE ARE CALLED HYDRO VOLCANIC FEATURES. 22:06.734 --> 22:09.767 align:start WHAT YOU HAVE HERE IS A SITUATION WHERE WATER, 22:09.868 --> 22:12.434 align:start GROUND WATER PROBABLY THAT WAS IN THE GROUND ANYWAY, 22:12.534 --> 22:15.868 align:start PERCOLATED DOWN NEAR AN ACTIVE MAGMA CHAMBER 22:15.968 --> 22:18.701 align:start WHERE THE MOLTEN ROCK WAS AT SOME DEPTH IN THE GROUND. 22:18.801 --> 22:21.000 align:start AND THEN THAT WATER WOULD FLASH INTO STEAM LIKE 22:21.100 --> 22:24.467 align:start A BOILER EXPLOSION AND JUST BLOW THE TOP RIGHT OUT OF THE LAND. 22:24.567 --> 22:27.234 align:start AND YOU'LL GET THESE CRATERS THAT ARE A MILE ACROSS 22:27.334 --> 22:29.534 align:start AND FIVE HUNDRED TO EIGHT HUNDRED FEET DEEP, 22:29.634 --> 22:31.467 align:start JUST AS EXPLOSION CRATERS. 22:31.567 --> 22:34.968 align:start THE DEBRIS JUST GOES UP INTO THE AIR AND FALLS OUT 22:35.067 --> 22:37.567 align:start AS AN EJECTED BLANKET, THEY CALL IT, 22:37.667 --> 22:41.601 align:start THAT GOES FOR MILES OUT FROM THE CRATER IN ALL DIRECTIONS. 22:41.701 --> 22:44.734 align:start ANOTHER NOTICEABLE FEATURE OF THESE BIG CRATERS, 22:44.834 --> 22:46.734 align:start WHICH ARE CALLED MAAR CRATERS, 22:46.834 --> 22:50.601 align:start IS THAT THEY HAVE THIS LITTLE PILE OF DEBRIS 22:50.701 --> 22:52.634 align:start ALL THE WAY AROUND THE RING ON THE TOP. 22:52.734 --> 22:54.234 align:start AND THIS IS CALLED A TOUGH RING. 22:54.334 --> 22:56.968 align:start AND ON SOME CRATERS IT'S BIG AND SOME IT'S VERY SMALL. 22:57.067 --> 23:00.267 align:start USUALLY IT'S KIND OF YELLOW AND A SLOPING MOUND 23:00.367 --> 23:01.501 align:start ALL THE WAY AROUND. 23:01.601 --> 23:03.767 align:start AND THIS IS THE LITTLE BIT OF VOLCANIC MATERIAL 23:03.868 --> 23:06.200 align:start THAT WAS EJECTED OUT OF THIS CRATER AT THE SAME TIME 23:06.300 --> 23:12.000 align:start THAT THE EXPLOSION OCCURRED. 23:12.100 --> 23:13.934 align:start THE PINACATE HAS HAS VOLCANO WRITTEN ALL OVER IT. 23:14.033 --> 23:15.133 align:start IT CERTAINLY DOES. THERE'S JUST ABOUT 23:15.234 --> 23:16.868 align:start EVERYTHING VOLCANIC HERE THAT YOU CAN IMAGINE. 23:16.968 --> 23:20.133 align:start WE'VE GOT LAVA FLOWS, CINDER CONES, 23:20.234 --> 23:22.300 align:start ABOUT FOUR HUNDRED OF 'EM. 23:22.400 --> 23:23.934 align:start WE'VE GOT A GREAT BIG CENTRAL MOUNTAIN AND WE'VE GOT 23:24.033 --> 23:27.300 align:start THE BIGGEST EXPLOSION CRATERS ON THE NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT, 23:27.400 --> 23:28.934 align:start THINGS AS BIG AS A METEOR CRATER, 23:29.033 --> 23:30.934 align:start A MILE ACROSS AND HUNDREDS OF FEET DEEP. 23:31.033 --> 23:33.634 align:start WOW. HOW OLD ARE THESE VOLCANOES? 23:33.734 --> 23:36.767 align:start WELL, THEY COME IN MANY DIFFERENT AGES. 23:36.868 --> 23:39.868 align:start THE OLDEST ONE IS REALLY YOUNG BY GEOLOGICAL STANDARDS 23:39.968 --> 23:41.901 align:start BUT OLD BY HUMAN STANDARDS. 23:42.000 --> 23:43.801 align:start THE BIG VOLCANO IN THE CENTER IS PROBABLY 23:43.901 --> 23:45.868 align:start ABOUT THREE MILLION YEARS OLD. 23:45.968 --> 23:47.667 align:start THE BIG EXPLOSION CRATERS ARE PROBABLY 23:47.767 --> 23:51.467 align:start MORE LIKE A HUNDRED THOUSAND OR SO YEARS OLD. 23:51.567 --> 23:53.567 align:start AND ALL OF THE CINDER CONES THAT ARE DOTTED ALL AROUND 23:53.667 --> 23:55.634 align:start STARTED PROBABLY A MILLION YEARS AGO 23:55.734 --> 24:01.033 align:start AND LEAD RIGHT UP TO THE PRESENT. 24:01.133 --> 24:04.167 align:start IT'S PROBABLY THE VOLCANOES THAT CONTRIBUTE MOST 24:04.267 --> 24:07.868 align:start TO THE EXOTIC ASPECT OF THIS PART OF THE DESERT. 24:07.968 --> 24:10.534 align:start IN ANY CASE, THERE'S NOTHING LIKE IT ANYWHERE. 24:10.634 --> 24:13.634 align:start AND THAT ASPECT HAS SET A NUMBER OF FORCES IN MOTION 24:13.734 --> 24:18.667 align:start TO SEE THAT IT STAYS EXOTIC. 24:18.767 --> 24:20.367 align:start THE CENTRO ECOLOGICO DE SONORA, 24:20.467 --> 24:22.400 align:start OUR SISTER INSTITUTION IN HERMOSILLO, 24:22.501 --> 24:24.934 align:start HAS WRITTEN AN ACTION PLAN TO THE STATE GOVERNMENT, 24:25.033 --> 24:26.868 align:start OR TO THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT OF MEXICO, 24:26.968 --> 24:29.100 align:start REQUESTING THAT THE PINACATE 24:29.200 --> 24:32.601 align:start BE DECREED AS A MILLION ACRE BIOSPHERE RESERVE. 24:32.701 --> 24:35.734 align:start THE NATURE CONSERVANCY HAS AGREED TO BACK CENTRO ECOLOGICO 24:35.834 --> 24:38.334 align:start WITH FUNDING, WITH TRAINING, 24:38.434 --> 24:41.400 align:start WITH ANYTHING THEY NEED TO PROTECT THAT REGION. 24:41.501 --> 24:44.267 align:start IT'S ONE OF THE MOST DRAMATIC LANDSCAPES 24:44.367 --> 24:46.734 align:start IN NORTH AMERICA, I THINK. 24:46.834 --> 24:49.667 align:start IT'S ALSO ONE OF THE LEAST IMPACTED LANDSCAPES 24:49.767 --> 24:51.200 align:start IN NORTH AMERICA. 24:51.300 --> 24:54.067 align:start THERE HASN'T BEEN VERY, THERE HASN'T BEEN MUCH IN THE WAY 24:54.167 --> 24:56.133 align:start OF DEVELOPMENT, THERE'S BEEN VERY LITTLE GRAZING. 24:56.234 --> 24:59.200 align:start AND THE AREA THAT THE CENTRO WANTS TO PRESERVE IS HUGE; 24:59.300 --> 25:01.200 align:start IT'S OVER A MILLION ACRES. 25:01.300 --> 25:06.501 align:start THEY'LL BE PROTECTING BOTH BIOLOGICAL AND CULTURAL SITES 25:06.601 --> 25:09.934 align:start WITHIN THE PINACATE. 25:10.033 --> 25:13.133 align:start I LOVE THE CONTRAST OF THE RED CINDER CONES, 25:13.234 --> 25:16.701 align:start THE BLACK LAVA, AND THE WHITE SAND DUNES. 25:16.801 --> 25:19.033 align:start AND THEN WITHIN THE SAND DUNES THERE'S A WHOLE SUITE 25:19.133 --> 25:20.567 align:start OF RARE PLANTS SPECIES. 25:20.667 --> 25:25.667 align:start AND IT'S JUST MOVING FROM ONE HABITAT 25:25.767 --> 25:26.501 align:start TO ANOTHER IS REALLY EXCITING. 25:26.601 --> 25:30.067 align:start DEFINITELY WORTH PROTECTING. 25:30.167 --> 25:32.467 align:start [SPEAKING SPANISH] 25:32.567 --> 25:36.701 align:start EL PINACATE AND THE DEATH VALLEY REGION 25:36.801 --> 25:43.534 align:start ARE TWO OF THE DRIEST PLACES IN NORTH AMERICA. 25:43.634 --> 25:45.300 align:start IN SPITE OF THE DRY CLIMATE, 25:45.400 --> 25:49.701 align:start THESE REGIONS HAVE A GREAT BIOLOGICAL DIVERSITY. 25:49.801 --> 25:51.801 align:start THE CONDITIONS FOUND IN THESE DESERT LANDS 25:51.901 --> 25:56.300 align:start HAVEN'T BEEN DISTURBED TOO MUCH BY MEN. 25:56.400 --> 26:01.100 align:start WE ARE TALKING ABOUT ONE OF THE MOST PRISTINE PLACES 26:01.200 --> 26:04.601 align:start IN THE WHOLE STATE OF SONORA. 26:04.701 --> 26:06.901 align:start AND IF WE MAINTAIN THIS SENSIBILITY WITH THE PEOPLE 26:07.000 --> 26:08.834 align:start THAT VISIT THE AREA, 26:08.934 --> 26:12.934 align:start I THINK EL PINACATE HAS A FUTURE. 26:13.033 --> 26:14.901 align:start I'M TOLD THAT THE ERUPTIONS THAT CREATED 26:15.000 --> 26:17.634 align:start ALL THESE CRATERS AND CINDER CONES OUT HERE 26:17.734 --> 26:20.501 align:start OCCUR EVERY THREE THOUSANDS YEARS OR SO. 26:20.601 --> 26:21.868 align:start NOW IF THAT'S CORRECT, 26:21.968 --> 26:25.033 align:start IT'S PROBABLY TIME FOR US TO RUN ALONG. 26:25.133 --> 26:26.701 align:start WELL, WE SURE HAVE ENJOYED YOUR COMPANY 26:26.801 --> 26:28.200 align:start IN THIS OUT OF THE WAY PLACE. 26:28.300 --> 26:32.501 align:start THANK YOU, AND JOIN US AGAIN FOR THE DESERT SPEAKS . 26:32.601 --> 27:29.334 align:start [MUSIC] 27:29.434 --> 27:31.100 align:start MAJOR FUNDING FOR THE DESERT SPEAKS 27:31.200 --> 27:33.801 align:start HAS BEEN PROVIDED BY ASARCO, INC., 27:33.901 --> 27:36.300 align:start AN INTEGRATED PRODUCER OF NONFERROUS METALS 27:36.400 --> 27:38.801 align:start AND OTHER INDUSTRIAL MINERALS AND PRODUCTS. 27:38.901 --> 27:43.033 align:start ASARCO, INC., ADDING VALUE TO NATURE'S RESOURCES.