WEBVTT

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LIFE IN THE CITIES AND
ALONG THE COAST OF SONORA,

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MEXICO, IS MODERN BUT IT'S
CROWDED AND OFTEN HECTIC.

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TRAVEL A COUPLE OF HOURS
INLAND TO THE FOOTHILLS OF

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THE SIERRA MADRE AND YOU
CAN LEAVE ALL THAT BEHIND.

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IT'S LIKE TAKING A
TRIP BACK IN TIME.

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FUNDING FOR THE DESERT
SPEAKS IS PROVIDED BY

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DESERT PROGRAM PARTNERS.

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REPRESENTING CONCERNED VIEWERS
MAKING A FINANCIAL COMMITTMENT

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TO THE EDUCATION ABOUT AND
PRESERVATION OF DESERTS

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AND BY THE STONEWALL FOUNDATION.

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[MUSIC]

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IF YOU WANT TO SEE WHAT
THE OLD WAYS WERE LIKE IN

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NORTHWEST MEXICO IN
THE STATE OF SONORA,

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YOU NEED TO GO TO THE
TOWN OF SAHUARIPA

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IN THE VALLEY OF SAHUARIPA.

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THE DESTINATION OF MOST
VISITORS TO SONORA IS THE

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LARGE CITY SUCH AS THE
CAPITOL HERMOSILLO AND

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RESORTS ON THE
SEA OF CORTEZ.

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TODAY 90% OF SONORA'S
POPULATION LIVES IN THE

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WESTERN PART OF THE STATE
AND NEAR THE WATER.

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200 YEARS AGO THE
POPULATION WAS CONCENTRATED

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ALONG THE RIVERS AND
VALLEYS IN THE EASTERN PART

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OF THE STATE IN TOWNS THAT
WERE FORMER INDIAN VILLAGES,

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SOME OF THEM ANCIENT.

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PEOPLE HAVE PROBABLY BEEN
LIVING HERE FOR AT LEAST

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1,000 YEARS AND UNTIL
ABOUT 40 YEARS AGO IT WAS

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ISOLATED FROM THE REST OF
SONORA SO YOU HAD TO GO BY

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HORSEBACK OR VERY, VERY
PRIMITIVE ROAD TO OTHER

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TOWNS AND TO GET TO
THE STATE CAPITOL OF

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HERMOSILLO WAS JUST A
MULTI-DAY EXCURSION.

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IN THE 60S AND 70S THEY
PUNCHED THROUGH A ROAD AND

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THEN A PAVED ROAD AND NOW
IT'S A MATTER OF THREE AND

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A HALF HOURS TO
GET TO HERMOSILLO.

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THAT HAS CHANGED
THE TOWN IMMENSELY.

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IT WAS FOUNDED PROBABLY
ABOUT 1640 BUT EVEN BEFORE

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THEN, LONG BEFORE THEN, IT
WAS AN OPATA TOWN OR AT

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LEAST AN INDIGENOUS TOWN.

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THE LARGEST TOWN
IS SAHUARIPA.

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IT WAS OLD WHEN SPANIARDS
ARRIVED IN THE 16TH CENTURY.

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NEARBY ARE THREE OR FOUR

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PUEBLOS THAT STILL CARRY ON
ANCIENT TRADITIONS.

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ONE OF THEM IS
CALLED SANTO TOMAS.

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[SPANISH] SO IN THIS TOWN
OF SANTA TOMAS IN THE

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SAHUARIPA VALLEY, IT'S THE
ONLY TOWN LEFT SHE'S THE

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ONLY ONE THAT MAKES PINOLE
AND IT'S A BASIC FOOD.

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THE OPATAS WERE USING IT
FOR CENTURIES BEFORE THE

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ARRIVAL OF SPANIARDS SO
THIS IS THE ORIGINAL STUFF.

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[SPANISH] SO THIS IS
ACTUALLY TOASTED POPCORN

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AND SHE PUTS THAT IN THERE
AND THEN THE BURRO PUSHES

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THIS AND YOU CAN SEE THE
GROUND POPCORN COMING OUT

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AND THAT THEN BECOMES
PINOLE AND YOU CAN SEE IT

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COMING OUT AND IT
MAKES THE BEST...

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IT'S LIKE OATMEAL OR CREAM
OF WHEAT BUT IT'S BETTER.

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PINOLE WAS THE ORIGINAL
FOOD THAT SOLDIERS,

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EVEN PRE-COLUMBIAN SOLDIERS,
COULD CARRY IN POUCHES.

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IT WAS DRY.

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THEY'D CARRY IT AND THAT WOULD
BE THEIR SOLE FOOD FOR DAYS.

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MIXED IT WITH WATER AND
NOW THEY MIX IT WITH MILK.

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OH, IT'S COMING OUT GREAT.
OH, THAT'S GOOD. MMM.

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AND IT TASTES VERY MUCH
LIKE A VERY GOOD CREAM OF

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RICE OR CREAM OF
WHEAT OR BETTER YET,

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CREAM OF CORN AND IT'S EXTREMELY
NUTRITIOUS. GOOD STUFF.

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IT TASTES BETTER THAN THE
BEST POPCORN AND BECAUSE

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IT'S FROM THE WHOLE GRAIN OF
THE CORN IT'S VERY NUTRITIOUS.

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THE ONLY QUESTION
I HAVE IS, WOULD I

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USE MORE ENERGY GRINDING IT THAN
I WOULD GAIN FROM EATING IT.

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[SPANISH] I THINK IT WOULD
BE BETTER IF YOU ADD THE

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BURRO BUT THE BURRO IS
ACTUALLY OUT DOING ANOTHER JOB.

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BUT I WANTED SOME PINOLE
AND THAT'S ALMOST ENOUGH

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TO HAVE A SERVING.

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PINOLE HAS BEEN THE
BASIC FOOD FOR BOTH

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INDIANS AND SPANIARDS FOR
CENTURIES.

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IT IS STILL THE FUEL THAT
TARAHUMARA RUNNERS RELY ON

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IN THEIR EPIC RACES
AND FESTIVITIES.

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JUST ABOUT ALL OF THEM HAVE A

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BUNDLE AND IT TURNS
OUT TO BE PINOLE.

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LATER ON WHEN THEY ARE
TIRED OF DANCING AND THEY

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WANT TO EAT, EACH ONE OF
THEM IS ACTUALLY EVEN

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CARRYING A LITTLE CUP OR
LITTLE MUG AND LATER ON

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THEY MIX IT WITH WATER AND
THEY HAVE A LITTLE PINOLE.

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IT GIVES THEM STRENGTH

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TO CONTINUE DANCING
THROUGHOUT THE NIGHT.

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ONCE PINOLE HAS BEEN
GROUND IT STORES WELL.

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THAT'S NOT THE CASE FOR
FRESH GARDEN VEGETABLES.

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[SPANISH] THIS IS HER
GARDEN. MRS. CLACAS

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PLANTS THIS EVERY YEAR.

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[SPANISH] SO THESE ARE
ONIONS, GREEN ONIONS.

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ESO QUE ES? ES AJO.

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SO THAT'S GARLIC AND
WHAT DO WE HAVE HERE?

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CILANTRO, ES CILANTRO.
OH, THIS IS CILANTRO.

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NO GARDEN IS COMPLETE DOWN
HERE...SIN CILANTRO.

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[SPANISH] SO EVERY FOUR OR
FIVE DAYS SHE IRRIGATES.

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SHE'S GOT THE HOSE THAT
SHE CAN MOVE AROUND.

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IN MARCH THE GARLIC WILL
BE READY TO HARVEST.

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[SPANISH] SO SHE
DOESN'T SELL THIS.

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IT'S JUST FOR HER
HOUSEHOLD USE AND THIS

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WILL KEEP FOR
MOST OF THE YEAR.

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[SPANISH] SO THIS IS THE
ORIGINAL WALL OF HER HOUSE

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WITH THE ORIGINAL ADOBE
ON IT MADE OF DIRT.

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[SPANISH] SO THIS IS SAND
WITH LIME IN IT AND THEY

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COVER IT AND IT DOESN'T
CHANGE ANYTHING BUT ALL OF

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A SUDDEN IT'S A DIFFERENT COLOR
AND IT'S MUCH MORE ATTRACTIVE.

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THERE ARE PEOPLE WHO SPECIALIZE

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IN PUTTING THIS
PLASTER ON ADOBE.

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[SPANISH] SO IT'S COOL IN
THE SUMMERTIME AND IT'S

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WARM IN THE WINTERTIME.

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IT IS THE PERFECT MATERIAL
FOR BUILDING HERE IN THE

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SAHURAIPA VALLEY AND JUST
ABOUT EVERYWHERE ELSE IN

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THE SOUTHWEST AND
NORTHWEST MEXICO.

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SAHUARIPA IS JUST A
CLASSIC CASE OF A RANCH

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TOWN IN EASTERN SONORA IN THE
FOOTHILLS OF THE SIERRA MADRE.

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THE TOWN IS OLD AND THE
HOUSES WERE BUILT IN

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CLASSIC COLONIAL
STALL, WALL TO WALL.

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THERE'S NO SET BACKS.

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THE DOORS OPEN INTO THE
STREETS AND PEOPLE HAVE

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PATIOS IN THEIR HOUSES.

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THERE ARE STILL HORSES AND
COWS EVERYWHERE AROUND THE

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TOWN AND YOU SEE THINGS
LIKE PLOWS JUST SITTING

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AROUND IN THE TOWN.

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THAT SHOWS IT'S REALLY
AN AGRARIAN PLACE.

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IN RECENT YEARS PEOPLE
HAVE REALLY GOTTEN INTO

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COLORS SO RATHER THAN HAVE
JUST THE UNIFORM SORT OF

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WHITE OR OFF
WHITE IN ADOBE,

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NOW YOU SEE ALL KINDS
OF DAZZLING COLORS.

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THEY'VE SPRUCED UP THE
PLACE QUITE A BIT.

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THERE'S EVEN SOME STATUES
AND AS MANDATORY IN MOST

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MEXICAN TOWNS THE PORTRAIT
OR A BUST OF BENITO

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JUAREZ, THE GREAT
PRESIDENT OF MEXICO.

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BUT SAHUARIPA IS
MORE THAN ANYTHING

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A PLACE WHERE YOU
SEE LOCAL STUFF.

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RAMON, A COWBOY, IS
WEARING THE CLASSIC

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FOOTWEAR OF THE
SIERRA COWBOY.

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YOU CAN WALK FOREVER IN THEM
AND THEY HAVE A POINTED TOE

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WHICH MAKES IT EASY TO GET
IN AND OUT OF THE STIRRUP.

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THEY'RE ACTUALLY
BETTER THAN BOOTS.

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FEWER AND FEWER COWBOYS
WEAR THEM NOWADAYS BECAUSE

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IT'S MORE STYLISH TO WEAR
BOOTS BUTTEJUASARE THE

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BEST THING YOU CAN GET FOR
WALKING AROUND THE SIERRAS

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IF YOU'RE A COWBOY
AND NEED A HORSE.

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THERE'S ONLY ONE BIG
LEATHER SHOP LEFT IN

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SAHUARIPA, A COUPLE
SMALLER ONES.

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THERE'S NO SIGNS BUT THEY
TOLD ME TO LOOK FOR A

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PLACE THAT HAD FLAGSTONE
AND HERE IT IS.

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LOCALLY CUT FLAGSTONE, BOY,
THAT'S HANDSOME STUFF.

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BUT THAT'S HOW
THEY MARK IT.

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NO SIGN AND HERE'S
BETO PACHECO'S PLACE.

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[SPANISH] SO I'M
GOING TO TRY THEM ON.

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[SPANISH] SO HE
ONLY HAS ONE PAIR. LET'S SEE.

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THESE ARE THE REALTEJUAS.
LOOK AT THIS.

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THESE ARE ONE PIECE OF
LEATHER NAILED DOWN AND

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THE SOLE VERY, VERY
GOOD USED TIRE.

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SO IT'S ALL LOCAL
MATERIALS AND THE

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SHOELACES ARE JUST PIECES OF
RAWHIDE THAT HAVE BEEN CUT OUT.

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WELL, THIS IS A SIZE 8 AND
I'M GOING TO SEE IF I'M LUCKY.

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[SPANISH] SO THESE ARE
REALLY EXPENSIVE HERE.

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THEY'RE A LITTLE BIT LESS
THAN $30. IF I'M LUCKY.

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THE ONE PAIR AND
I THINK THEY FIT.

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THE LEATHER SHOP IN EACH TOWN
IS CALLED ATALABARTERIA.

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IN THE MOUNTAINS OF SONORA
AND SONORAN RANCHING

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TOWNS, EVERYONE, EVERY
TOWN HAD ONE OR TWO OR

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EVEN THREE LEATHER WORKING
SHOPS TO MAKE SADDLES,

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BELTS, TRAPPINGS FOR HORSE
RIDING AND IN THE SIERRAS

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IT WAS THE ONLY SOURCE
OF SHOES BECAUSE THEY

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COULDN'T GET OUT OF THE
TOWN SO PEOPLE LEARNED TO

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MAKE THESETEJUASAND IT
MAY HAVE BEEN THAT THE

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OPATAS WHO LIVED HERE
BEFORE MADE THEM OUT OF DEER.

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AND SO THE DESIGN MAY HAVE
BEEN EVEN INDIGENOUS.

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BU THESE ARE VERY FINE
AND VERY COMFORTABLE.

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[SPANISH] WE'VE GOT
PROBABLY FOUR GENERATIONS

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THAT HAVE BEEN MAKING
THESE HERE IN SAHUARIPA.

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JUAN CARLOS WHO MADE
THESE LEARNED FROM HIS

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GRANDFATHER BETO PACHECO
AND I HAVE TO SAY WHEN I

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CAME HERE IN 1989 I WAS
LOOKING FORTEJUAS.

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EVERYBODY TOLD ME,
IF YOU WANTTEJUAS,

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GO FIND BETO PACHECO IN
SAHUARIPA. HE MAKES THE BEST.

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WELL, I WENT LOOKING FOR
HIM BUT HIS PLACE WAS CLOSED.

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SO HERE I AM OVER 20 YEARS
LATER AND HIS GRANDSON

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JUAN CARLOS IS MAKING
THESETEJUAS

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AND I'M TAKING THEM WITH ME.

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THE TRUE INDIGENOUS CRAFT
FOR WHICH EASTERN SONORAN

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TOWNS HAVE BEEN NOTED FOR
CENTURIES ARETEJUASAND

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WOVEN HATS AND BASKETS
MADE OF PALM AND

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TRADITIONAL CRAFTS ARE
FAST DISAPPEARING.

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THERE'S ONLY ONE WOMAN
LEFT WHO MAKES PALM HATS

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AND BASKETS IN SAHUARIPA.

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I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR HER. HER
NAME IS EMILIANO DOROME.

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IT'S A GREAT OPATA NAME.

12:52.792 --> 12:56.834 align:start
THEY SAID THERE'S A VIRGIN
AND AN ORGAN PIPE SO THIS

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MUST BE THE PLACE.
BUENOS DIAS.

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[SPANISH] SO SHE HAS BEEN MAKING
THESE HATS FOR OVER 60 YEARS.

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SHE WAS 12 YEARS WHEN SHE
STARTED MAKING THEM

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AND SHE'S STILL DOING THEM. SO
SHE LEARNED FROM HER MOTHER

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BUT THEY LEARNED
WATCHING HER, NOT DOING IT.

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[SPANISH] SO SHE HAS CHILDREN
THAT BRING THE PALM FOR HER,

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THE BUNCHES OF PALM LIKE THIS
AND SHE THEN SPLITS IT.

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SHE CAN'T WEAVE RIGHT NOW
BECAUSE IT'S WINTERTIME

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AND IT'S TOO DRY.

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[SPANISH] THIS IS THE
IDEAL BASKET FOR TORTILLAS

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BECAUSE IT HAS A
TOP, THESE FIT IN,

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THEY WON'T BE DAMAGED
IN PUTTING THE TOP ON,

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THEN THEY GET PROTECTED
FROM FLIES AND OTHER DAMAGE.

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[SPANISH] THIS IS FOR
RANCH CHEESE AND IT'S ROUNDISH.

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[SPANISH] WHEN THEY PUT
THE FRESH CHEESE IN HERE

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IT GETS KIND OF HEAVY
SO IT ACTUALLY HAS A

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REINFORCED RIM SO YOU CAN CARRY
IT LIKE THIS AND IT WON'T BREAK.

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[SPANISH] SO IN TWO DAYS
SHE CAN MAKE A BASKET LIKE THIS.

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[SPANISH] SO SHE'LL
SELL THIS 50,

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70 PESOS SO THAT'S NOT
MUCH WORK FOR TWO DAYS.

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WOMEN LIKE TO USE THIS
KIND FOR JEWELRY AND THEN

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CHILDREN CAN KEEP LITTLE
TOYS AND TRINKETS IN IT AS WELL.

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AND IT'S GOT A TOP SO THAT
THINGS DON'T FALL OUT.

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YOU CAN KEEP THEM
MORE OR LESS SECURE.

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SO SHE'S REALLY THE LAST
PERSON WHO MAKES THE HATS.

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SHE HAS A DAUGHTER
WHO'LL MAKE THE BASKETS.

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THERE'S ANOTHER WOMAN
WHO MAKES LITTLE PALM

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MATTRESSES, MATTRESS
PADS BUT WHEN SHE GOES,

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THERE'LL BE NO MORE
OF THESE FINE HATS.

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THIS IS A TRIBUTE TO
MRS. DOROME'S LATE HUSBAND.

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HERE IS HIS PHOTOGRAPH AND
THIS LITTLE SHRINE TO HIM

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BUT SHE MADE THIS SMALL
HAT AS A TRIBUTE TO HIS

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MEMORY AND THIS IS
HER LITTLE SHRINE,

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HER LITTLE ALTAR ON
THE WALL OF HER HOUSE.

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THE SAHUARIPA VALLEY IS
VINTAGE SONORAN RANCH COUNTRY.

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RANCH HEADQUARTERS ARE
ALWAYS LOCATED WHERE WELLS.

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AND RANCHO LA QUIVA
IS NO DIFFERENT. ANOTHER WELL.

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OH, THAT'S DEEP. VERY DEEP.

15:43.999 --> 15:47.918 align:start
THAT ONE MUST BE TEN METERS
DEEP. IT'S WAY DOWN.

15:47.918 --> 15:51.584 align:start
IT'S AT LEAST TEN. DO YOU THINK
THIS BUCKET'S GOING TO WORK?

15:51.584 --> 15:55.459 align:start
IT'S FULL OF HOLES. LET'S FIND
OUT. YEAH, LET'S FIND OUT.

15:55.459 --> 15:57.209 align:start
YOU GOT IT? YEP. ALL RIGHT.

15:57.209 --> 16:02.417 align:start
THIS IS GETTING
WATER THE OLD WAY.

16:02.417 --> 16:07.000 align:start
ALL RIGHT, IT HIT. BOY,
THAT'S A LONG WAY DOWN.

16:07.000 --> 16:08.999 align:start
WHEN YOU'RE PULLING
UP BUCKETS OF WATER,

16:08.999 --> 16:11.501 align:start
IT'S GOOD TO HAVE SOMEBODY
WHO'S REALLY STRONG UNLESS

16:11.501 --> 16:13.999 align:start
YOU WANT TO DEVELOP
UPPER BODY STRENGTH.

16:13.999 --> 16:15.626 align:start
IF YOU HAVE A
USED PAINT BUCKET,

16:15.626 --> 16:18.167 align:start
IT'S THE BEST AND A COUPLE
OF HOLES AERATES THE

16:18.167 --> 16:22.417 align:start
WATER, MAKES IT A LITTLE BIT
COOLER. BUT THERE YOU HAVE IT.

16:22.417 --> 16:24.999 align:start
IF IT WEREN'T FOR
ALL THE LEAVES,

16:24.999 --> 16:28.709 align:start
IT'S PROBABLY PRETTY
GOOD DRINKING WATER.

16:28.709 --> 16:30.250 align:start
SO WHAT DO THESE
BRANDS MEAN?

16:30.250 --> 16:32.999 align:start
THEY'RE MOSTLY SYMBOLS BUT
SOME OF THEM YOU CAN READ THEM.

16:32.999 --> 16:35.999 align:start
LIKE THIS ONE
IS AN S, AN R.

16:35.999 --> 16:37.584 align:start
A BACKWARDS R, UH HUH. UH HUH.

16:37.584 --> 16:39.999 align:start
SO THAT COULD WELL BE THE
SYMBOL OF THE CAVE THEN,

16:39.999 --> 16:41.792 align:start
THIS IS RANCHO LAS
QUIVAS OR THE CAVE

16:41.792 --> 16:44.083 align:start
AND THAT COULD COULD
BE A CAVE POSSIBLY.

16:44.083 --> 16:47.042 align:start
WHEN I'M IN THE MOUNTAINS
AND I HEAR ABOUT CAVES,

16:47.042 --> 16:49.999 align:start
I FEEL COMPELLED
TO CHECK THEM OUT,

16:49.999 --> 16:52.999 align:start
EVEN IF I'M FORCED
TO RIDE ON MULE BACK.

16:52.999 --> 16:56.792 align:start
AFTER ALL, I MIGHT FIND
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES,

16:56.792 --> 17:03.125 align:start
RARE ANIMALS OR
EVEN UNUSUAL BATS.

17:03.125 --> 17:06.918 align:start
SO WE'RE HEADING TO A CAVE
WHICH THE RANCH IS NAMED AFTER.

17:06.918 --> 17:12.083 align:start
THERE'S A PROCESSION OF US AND
I GOT THE GENTLEST ANIMAL.

17:12.083 --> 17:15.167 align:start
OF COURSE, SHE'S A MULE
AND I CALLED HER SAL

17:15.167 --> 17:18.999 align:start
BECAUSE MEXICANS DON'T NAME
THEIR MULES OR THEIR DONKEYS,

17:18.999 --> 17:21.334 align:start
ONLY THEIR HORSES. BUT I GOT A
MULE AND HER NAME IS SAL.

17:21.334 --> 17:25.501 align:start
15 MILES ON THE ERIE CANAL. SO
SAL, LET'S SEE IF WE CAN GO.

17:25.501 --> 17:31.667 align:start
HEY, SAL, HEY, LET'S GO.
ADENANTE.

17:31.667 --> 17:34.999 align:start
YOU CAN EASILY LOSE YOUR
FOOT IF YOU WALK SO IT

17:34.999 --> 17:37.584 align:start
REALLY IS BETTER
TO BE ON HORSEBACK,

17:37.584 --> 17:40.375 align:start
IF YOU CAN'T BE IN
A CAR OR A VEHICLE.

17:40.375 --> 17:43.999 align:start
IF YOU'RE ALSO RIDING,
THERE'S ABOUT 40 DIFFERENT

17:43.999 --> 17:45.999 align:start
KINDS OF TREES AND SHRUBS
THAT HAVE THORNS AND

17:45.999 --> 17:50.999 align:start
SPINES AND STAVES THAT GRAB YOU
AND TRY TO KEEP YOU FROM GOING.

17:50.999 --> 17:54.209 align:start
IT'S REALLY RUGGED,
MEAN COUNTRY.

17:54.209 --> 17:57.959 align:start
AND I'M FOLLOWING TWO
PRETTY SPIRITED HORSES.

17:57.959 --> 18:01.999 align:start
OKAY, THIS WINTER HAS
BEEN REALLY DRY, RIGHT?

18:01.999 --> 18:04.999 align:start
YES BUT THE SUMMER
WAS EVEN WORSE. IT WAS WORSE.

18:04.999 --> 18:08.999 align:start
SO YOU GET A BAD
SUMMER, BAD WINTER,

18:08.999 --> 18:11.250 align:start
WHAT DO THE
RANCHERS DO TO COPE?

18:11.250 --> 18:14.999 align:start
THEY'RE GOING TO HAVE TO
SELL PART OF HIS CATTLE TO

18:14.999 --> 18:18.292 align:start
SUPPORT THE RANCH AND TRY
TO KEEP THE CATTLE THAT

18:18.292 --> 18:20.999 align:start
THEY'RE GOING TO LEAVE
HERE IN GOOD SHAPE.

18:20.999 --> 18:23.999 align:start
IT TAKES A LONG TIME TO
BUILD UP A HERD, RIGHT?

18:23.999 --> 18:25.417 align:start
YES, IT'S GOING
TO TAKE AWHILE.

18:25.417 --> 18:27.959 align:start
IN THIS PART OF THE
SIERRA, RAYNALDO,

18:27.959 --> 18:30.334 align:start
WAS THIS REALLY, THERE
AREN'T ANY ROADS.

18:30.334 --> 18:32.918 align:start
YOU ALMOST HAVE TO
GO BY HORSEBACK

18:32.918 --> 18:33.999 align:start
TO GET INTO THEM, RIGHT?

18:33.999 --> 18:35.375 align:start
YEAH, ACTUALLY THIS ROAD THAT

18:35.375 --> 18:37.125 align:start
WE'VE BEEN DRIVING
IS PRETTY NEW.

18:37.125 --> 18:40.292 align:start
ABOUT 30 YEARS AGO THERE WASN'T
ANY ROAD THAT CAME THROUGH HERE.

18:40.292 --> 18:42.834 align:start
SO THAT ONE ROAD SERVES
THE ENTIRE AREA AND

18:42.834 --> 18:47.083 align:start
OTHERWISE YOU'VE GOT TO
GO ON FOOT OR BY HORSE. YES.

18:47.083 --> 18:48.959 align:start
WELL, I LIKE
BEING ON HORSE.

18:48.959 --> 18:51.626 align:start
ACTUALLY I SHOULD SAY
I LIKE BEING ON MULE.

18:51.626 --> 18:54.000 align:start
YEAH, MULES ARE PRETTY
GOOD FOR RIDING AND

18:54.000 --> 18:56.999 align:start
THEY'RE GOOD FOR PACKING.

18:56.999 --> 19:00.209 align:start
YEAH, THEY CAN CARRY A
LOT OF WEIGHT, RIGHT?

19:00.209 --> 19:01.334 align:start
YEAH, BEFORE THEY
BUILD THE ROAD,

19:01.334 --> 19:03.709 align:start
THE ONLY WAY TO BRING
THEIR SUPPLIERS FOR THE

19:03.709 --> 19:05.417 align:start
RANCHES WAS BY
MULE OR DONKEYS.

19:05.417 --> 19:07.999 align:start
ABOUT TEN YEARS AGO THE
BEST WAY TO BRING THE

19:07.999 --> 19:11.626 align:start
SUPPLIES AND EVERYTHING
WAS BY LITTLE PLANES.

19:11.626 --> 19:13.999 align:start
WELL, YEAH, BUT THAT
COSTS YOU A LOT.

19:13.999 --> 19:16.292 align:start
YOU'VE GOT TO BE FAIRLY
WELL OFF TO DO THAT.

19:16.292 --> 19:19.918 align:start
YEAH, WELL, THE RANCHES USED TO
DO PRETTY WELL 20 YEARS AGO.

19:19.918 --> 19:22.709 align:start
WHAT IS THIS CAVE LIKE
THAT THE RANCH IS NAMED

19:22.709 --> 19:23.834 align:start
AFTER THAT WE'RE GOING TO?

19:23.834 --> 19:25.417 align:start
WELL, I THINK
THEY USED TO STAY,

19:25.417 --> 19:27.542 align:start
SPEND THE NIGHTS
IN THERE...

19:27.542 --> 19:30.375 align:start
OH, REALLY. ...IF THERE'D BE
TROUBLE AROUND RANCHES.

19:30.375 --> 19:33.334 align:start
OKAY, IT'S A... A COVER FOR
RAIN AND THE COLD.

19:33.334 --> 19:35.959 align:start
ON A SUMMER'S DAY IT
PROBABLY WOULD BE

19:35.959 --> 19:37.042 align:start
A GOOD TIME TO COME UP HERE.

19:37.042 --> 19:39.209 align:start
THE TEMPERATURE DOWN AT
THE RANCH IN AUGUST IS

19:39.209 --> 19:42.542 align:start
GOING TO BE 105 AND UP
HERE IT WOULD ONLY BE 95.

19:42.542 --> 19:48.292 align:start
LUCO TELLS ME THEY CALL
THIS THESIERRA DE GUANO. SI.

19:48.292 --> 19:50.292 align:start
AND IT'S THE
CUEVO DE GUANO,

19:50.292 --> 19:55.999 align:start
THEY LEAVE THE BAT MANURE
BEHIND OR THEGUANO. UH HUH.

19:55.999 --> 19:59.876 align:start
AND THE WHOLE RANGE GETS
ITS NAME FROM THAT.

19:59.876 --> 20:03.125 align:start
OKAY, I GIVE UP. OKAY, SAL,
YOU WIN. I'M GETTING OFF.

20:03.125 --> 20:07.999 align:start
I DON'T THINK I WAS MADE
TO SIT MORE THAN

20:07.999 --> 20:14.709 align:start
15 MINUTES ON TOP OF A HORSE.
WHOA, LOOK AT THAT.

20:14.709 --> 20:20.834 align:start
SO THIS IS THE FAMED "BAT
CAVE",CUEVO DE GUANO.

20:20.834 --> 20:24.209 align:start
THIS ISLA CUEVA DE GUANO.

20:24.209 --> 20:26.999 align:start
YOU KNOW I CAN ALREADY
SMELL THEGUANO.

20:26.999 --> 20:29.999 align:start
IT'S CLEARLY
OCCUPIED BY BATS.

20:29.999 --> 20:32.584 align:start
DO PEOPLE TAKE THIS STUFF
OUT FOR FERTILIZER?

20:32.584 --> 20:34.292 align:start
NO, I DON'T THINK SO.

20:34.292 --> 20:37.083 align:start
IT'S KIND OF FAR AWAY TO
HERE. IT IS A LONG WAY

20:37.083 --> 20:39.459 align:start
BUT BOY A BAG OF IT COULD MAKE
YOUR GARDEN GROW.

20:39.459 --> 20:42.999 align:start
WELL, IT'S A BIG ENOUGH CAVE.
IT IS. IT GOES PRETTY DEEP.

20:42.999 --> 20:44.834 align:start
YEAH, IT GOES WAY UP THERE
BUT I THINK THE AIR IS SO

20:44.834 --> 20:47.999 align:start
FULL OF THE AMMONIA
THAT THE ORDER FROM THE
GUANO...

20:47.999 --> 20:51.584 align:start
YEAH, THEREFORE IT IS NOT
A PLACE TO STAY FOR A LONG TIME.

20:51.584 --> 20:56.000 align:start
NO, GET OUT OF THE RAIN AND WHEN
IT STOPS, DO WHAT I'M DOING.

20:56.000 --> 21:00.209 align:start
GET OUT AND MOVE ON TO SOMEWHERE
WHERE THE AIR IS A LITTLE PURER.

21:00.209 --> 21:02.626 align:start
WE'VE GOT OTHER
PLACES TO GO ANYWAY.

21:02.626 --> 21:15.083 align:start
A RANCH BUILDING MADE OF
PALM TRUNKS GOES UP A LOT

21:15.083 --> 21:19.542 align:start
FASTER THAN ONE
MADE OF ADOBE.

21:19.542 --> 21:22.542 align:start
WHEN YOU LIVE ON A RANCH
THAT'S EIGHT OR NINE HOURS

21:22.542 --> 21:26.292 align:start
BY HORSEBACK FROM
THE NEAREST TOWN,

21:26.292 --> 21:29.459 align:start
YOU'VE GOT TO USE THE MATERIALS
THAT YOU HAVE AVAILABLE.

21:29.459 --> 21:30.999 align:start
IN THIS CASE
THERE ARE MANY,

21:30.999 --> 21:33.999 align:start
MANY PALMS AND SO THE
BUILDER HERE HAS SPLIT THE

21:33.999 --> 21:36.334 align:start
PALM LOGS AND MADE THE
SIDING AND PALM THATCHING

21:36.334 --> 21:39.999 align:start
FOR THE TOP WITH A LITTLE
HELP OF MORE OR LESS

21:39.999 --> 21:41.375 align:start
MODERN GALVANIZED ROOFING.

21:41.375 --> 21:44.834 align:start
AND THEN ON THE TOP THEY
USE MESQUITE LOGS TO HOLD

21:44.834 --> 21:45.834 align:start
EVERYTHING DOWN.

21:45.834 --> 21:47.626 align:start
IT'S VERY LOCAL
CONSTRUCTION,

21:47.626 --> 21:54.834 align:start
CHEAP AND COOL INSIDE.

21:54.834 --> 21:57.918 align:start
[DOG BARKS] LIFE ON A
RANCH IN CENTRAL SONORA

21:57.918 --> 21:59.125 align:start
CAN BE VERY, VERY TOUGH.

21:59.125 --> 22:02.292 align:start
A MAN'S WORK IS NEVER DONE
AND SO WHEN RELAXATION IS

22:02.292 --> 22:08.375 align:start
AVAILABLE, EVEN IF IT'S ON AN
OLD TIRE, YOU'VE GOT TO USE IT.

22:08.375 --> 22:17.292 align:start
YOU'VE GOT TO GO FOR ALL
THE RELAXATION YOU CAN GET.

22:17.292 --> 22:21.209 align:start
THE SAHUARIPA VALLEY LIES
EAST OF THE RIO YAQUI

22:21.209 --> 22:24.042 align:start
WHICH ISOLATED IT FROM
THE REST OF THE STATE OF

22:24.042 --> 22:27.459 align:start
SONORA UNTIL A
BRIDGE WAS BUILT.

22:27.459 --> 22:31.584 align:start
THAT ISOLATION
HAS PROVEN IDEAL

22:31.584 --> 22:47.959 align:start
FOR THE SOUTHERNMOST
NESTING BALD EAGLES.

22:47.959 --> 22:51.999 align:start
THE ARROYO SAHUARIPA FLOWS
NORTH OUT OF THE SIERRA MADRE

22:51.999 --> 22:54.999 align:start
UP INTO THE RIO YAQUI. WHEN
THE EUROPEANS ARRIVED HERE,

22:54.999 --> 22:58.083 align:start
THERE WERE A NUMBER OF
INDIAN TOWNS ALREADY HERE.

22:58.083 --> 23:01.375 align:start
SAHUARIPA WAS AN
OPATA INDIAN TOWN.

23:01.375 --> 23:02.667 align:start
A COUPLE OF OTHER
SMALL TOWNS,

23:02.667 --> 23:05.250 align:start
ARIVECHI AND TACUPETO,
WERE THERE AND ARE STILL THERE.

23:05.250 --> 23:07.959 align:start
SAHUARIPA IS DOING OKAY BUT
THE OTHER TWO TOWNS

23:07.959 --> 23:10.083 align:start
WEREN'T REAL THRIVING.

23:10.083 --> 23:12.999 align:start
BUT ARIVECHI HAS THE
DISTINCTION OF HAVING

23:12.999 --> 23:16.167 align:start
SOMETHING IN IT THAT
BRINGS PEOPLE HERE FROM

23:16.167 --> 23:18.334 align:start
ALL OVER THE
REPUBLIC TO SEE.

23:18.334 --> 23:20.999 align:start
THERE YOU CAN SEE THE
STEEPLES OF THAT VERY

23:20.999 --> 23:27.083 align:start
NEW AND DIFFERENT CHURCH. IT'S
ORIGIN IS VERY INTERESTING.

23:27.083 --> 23:29.667 align:start
THERE'S A TRADITION IN
SONORAN POLITICS THAT THE

23:29.667 --> 23:32.292 align:start
GOVERNOR LAVISHES
MONEY ON HIS COMMUNITY.

23:32.292 --> 23:36.000 align:start
IN THE 1980S THE GOVERNOR
OF SONORA, GOVERNOR OCAÑA,

23:36.000 --> 23:38.999 align:start
WAS FROM ARIVECHI AND HE
DECIDED THAT HIS TOWN,

23:38.999 --> 23:42.417 align:start
ARIVECHI, SHOULD HAVE
THE BEST KIOSK IN ALL OF

23:42.417 --> 23:47.250 align:start
MEXICOANDA BEAUTIFUL CHURCH
AND THE TOWN GOT WHAT HE WANTED.

23:47.250 --> 23:52.167 align:start
IF YOU LOOK UP INTO
THE TILES IN THE DOME,

23:52.167 --> 23:55.584 align:start
THEY'RE TRANSLUCENT AND
THE THEMES THERE ARE ALL

23:55.584 --> 23:56.999 align:start
DESERT AND LOCAL THEMES.

23:56.999 --> 23:59.999 align:start
YOU SEE THEHECHOCACTUS
WHICH GIVES ITS GREAT FRUIT,

23:59.999 --> 24:04.667 align:start
AGAVESFROM WHICH THEBACA
 DORA, THE LOCAL LIQUOR IS
MADE.

24:04.667 --> 24:07.999 align:start
YOU SEE DEER AND YOU SEE
ALMOST ABOVE ALL OF IT,

24:07.999 --> 24:10.584 align:start
PALMS, THE DATE PALMS
WHICH EUROPEANS BROUGHT

24:10.584 --> 24:14.375 align:start
AND THE PALMS FROM WHICH
LOCAL MAKE BASKETS AND HATS.

24:14.375 --> 24:15.999 align:start
IT'S A COMBINATION
OF DESERT,

24:15.999 --> 24:22.501 align:start
INDIGENOUS THEMES WITH
MOORISH ARCHITECTURE.

24:22.501 --> 24:25.751 align:start
THE THEME AND THE STYLE OF
THE KIOSK MAY BE SPANISH

24:25.751 --> 24:31.417 align:start
AND MOORISH IN ORIGIN BUT THE
COLORS ARE DISTINCTLY MEXICAN.

24:31.417 --> 24:35.125 align:start
THE RED, GREEN AND WHITE
OF THE MEXICAN FLAG

24:35.125 --> 24:39.083 align:start
MAKES IT A PATRIOTIC PLACE.

24:39.083 --> 24:42.417 align:start
THE TOWN OF SAHUARIPA IS
ONE OF THE FEW PLACES LEFT

24:42.417 --> 24:46.459 align:start
IN NORTHWEST MEXICO WHERE
YOU CAN FIND A MIXTURE OF

24:46.459 --> 24:49.000 align:start
THE OLD WAYS AND
THE NEW WAYS.

24:49.000 --> 24:50.999 align:start
THE ANCIENT ARTS
OF LEATHER MAKING,

24:50.999 --> 24:54.459 align:start
WEAVING PALM BASKETS AND
HATS AND GRINDING POPCORN

24:54.459 --> 25:03.459 align:start
UP TO MAKE PINOLE ARE STILL HERE
IN SAHUARIPA, SONORA, MEXICO.

25:05.167 --> 25:07.959 align:start
A HOST OF RIVERS, CREEKS,
STREAMS AND AN EVEN

25:07.959 --> 25:11.375 align:start
GREATER ARRAY
OF CANYONS...

25:11.375 --> 25:14.417 align:start
IT GETS A LITTLE
NARROWER...

25:14.417 --> 25:17.501 align:start
CREATE THE MAN-MADE MARVEL
KNOWN AS LAKE POWELL.

25:17.501 --> 25:20.709 align:start
SO THERE'S
LABYRINTHIAN CANYON...

25:20.709 --> 25:22.999 align:start
NOW IMMERSED BELOW THE
PLACID SURFACE LIES SOME

25:22.999 --> 25:25.334 align:start
OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR
CANYON COUNTRY ON EARTH.

25:25.334 --> 25:27.459 align:start
COUNTRY THE DENAI OR
NAVAJOS ONCE CALLED HOME.

25:27.459 --> 25:30.042 align:start
SOMETHING DRASTIC CAUSES
THE SAND DUNE TO SHIFT...

25:30.042 --> 25:32.999 align:start
NEXT TIME ON THE
DESERT SPEAKS.

25:32.999 --> 25:35.751 align:start
THIS IS A TRADITIONAL
KITCHEN IN THE OUTSKIRTS

25:35.751 --> 25:38.000 align:start
OF SAHUARIPA AND THE FOOD
IS TRADITIONAL FOOD.

25:38.000 --> 25:40.292 align:start
GREEN CHILES AND GREEN
ONIONS AND THERE IS

25:40.292 --> 25:47.584 align:start
NOTHING IN THE WORLD THAT
COULD BE MUCH BETTER.

25:47.584 --> 25:51.667 align:start
I'M GOING TO STIR THEM
SO THAT THEY DON'T BURN.

25:51.667 --> 25:55.709 align:start
AND THEY WON'T BE FOR ME
BUT I ENVY WHOEVER GETS

25:55.709 --> 25:58.999 align:start
THE PRIVILEGE
OF EATING THEM.

26:00.167 --> 26:04.959 align:start
FUNDING FOR THE DESERT
SPEAKS IS PROVIDED BY

26:04.959 --> 26:06.667 align:start
DESERT PROGRAM PARTNERS.

26:06.667 --> 26:09.417 align:start
REPRESENTING CONCERNED VIEWERS
MAKING A FINANCIAL COMMITTMENT

26:09.417 --> 26:14.292 align:start
TO THE EDUCATION ABOUT AND
PRESERVATION OF DESERTS

26:14.292 --> 26:18.542 align:start
AND BY THE STONEWALL FOUNDATION.