1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:03,466 - [Announcer] tasteMAKERS was funded in part by... 2 00:00:03,466 --> 00:00:06,600 (soft piano music) 3 00:00:15,500 --> 00:00:17,466 - [Narrator] In the hands of those who take pride 4 00:00:17,466 --> 00:00:22,400 in what they do, something unique can be created. 5 00:00:24,566 --> 00:00:27,400 Edward Jones is proud to support the craftspeople 6 00:00:27,400 --> 00:00:30,333 who define the Maker Movement. 7 00:00:34,400 --> 00:00:35,500 (rhythmic upbeat music) 8 00:00:35,500 --> 00:00:37,333 - In this episode of tasteMAKERS, 9 00:00:37,333 --> 00:00:38,633 you are going to meet Yoshi Sako, 10 00:00:38,633 --> 00:00:41,466 a sake brewer in Oakland, California who is 11 00:00:41,466 --> 00:00:45,733 producing small-batch sake using only rice from this field. 12 00:00:45,733 --> 00:00:49,466 (rhythmic upbeat music) 13 00:00:49,466 --> 00:00:52,366 (upbeat music) 14 00:00:52,366 --> 00:00:54,366 I'm Cat Neville, and for the past two decades 15 00:00:54,366 --> 00:00:57,166 I've been telling the story of local food. 16 00:00:57,166 --> 00:00:59,666 In that time, American food culture has exploded 17 00:00:59,666 --> 00:01:03,433 in tiny towns and big cities from coast to coast. 18 00:01:03,433 --> 00:01:06,466 In tasteMAKERS, I explore the Maker Movement 19 00:01:06,466 --> 00:01:08,166 and take you along for the journey 20 00:01:08,166 --> 00:01:10,466 to meet the makers who define the flavor 21 00:01:10,466 --> 00:01:12,166 of American cuisine. 22 00:01:12,166 --> 00:01:15,133 (upbeat music) 23 00:01:27,666 --> 00:01:30,666 Tucked inside a collective of makers here in Oakland, 24 00:01:30,666 --> 00:01:33,466 California, Yoshi Sako is hand brewing sake 25 00:01:33,466 --> 00:01:35,433 that's meant to be food-friendly. 26 00:01:35,433 --> 00:01:37,466 And judging by the incredible array of places 27 00:01:37,466 --> 00:01:41,366 that carry Den Sake on their menus, he is hitting the mark. 28 00:01:41,366 --> 00:01:45,000 (mellow guitar music) 29 00:01:45,466 --> 00:01:48,600 - I was working in the restaurant industry for a long time, 30 00:01:48,600 --> 00:01:52,300 as a sake buyer or sake director, sake sommelier, 31 00:01:52,300 --> 00:01:57,166 and I started to teach sake class, and I was thinking, 32 00:01:57,166 --> 00:02:00,766 how I can gain my knowledge more, 33 00:02:00,766 --> 00:02:03,466 you know, I study about sake. 34 00:02:03,466 --> 00:02:06,466 I visited couple of sake breweries in Japan 35 00:02:06,466 --> 00:02:09,466 and did apprenticeship for one month. 36 00:02:09,466 --> 00:02:12,566 And I came back and, you know, I was like, 37 00:02:12,566 --> 00:02:15,066 "Okay, let's do it here". 38 00:02:15,066 --> 00:02:17,466 That's how I started, like a test brewing. 39 00:02:17,466 --> 00:02:21,200 - He did a couple of test brewings in his friend's backyard 40 00:02:21,200 --> 00:02:23,766 and realized, "Hey, this is actually pretty good". 41 00:02:23,766 --> 00:02:27,466 So that's when it kind of really was born, 42 00:02:27,466 --> 00:02:30,466 this idea of, "Okay, I want my own brewery". 43 00:02:30,466 --> 00:02:33,433 (mellow guitar music) 44 00:02:33,433 --> 00:02:36,466 - Once I started it, little by little, you know, 45 00:02:36,466 --> 00:02:40,066 I kind of realized, "Wow, this is hard. 46 00:02:40,066 --> 00:02:40,566 "This is hard". 47 00:02:40,566 --> 00:02:43,466 But, because I already started it, I have to keep going. 48 00:02:43,466 --> 00:02:47,500 So, just, that's why I'm here now (laughing). 49 00:02:49,433 --> 00:02:52,666 (machines whirring) 50 00:02:54,033 --> 00:02:56,166 For the sake making process, 51 00:02:56,166 --> 00:02:57,366 basically, we make steamed rice. 52 00:02:57,366 --> 00:03:01,033 After that steamed rice is carried into the cold room 53 00:03:01,033 --> 00:03:04,066 to cool down to the ideal temperature 54 00:03:04,066 --> 00:03:08,500 and that steamed rice is carried into the Koji room, 55 00:03:08,500 --> 00:03:10,300 which is little more heated room. 56 00:03:10,300 --> 00:03:16,466 It takes about 50 to 55 hours to cultivate the Koji mold. 57 00:03:16,533 --> 00:03:18,133 So Koji is basically, it's a fungus. 58 00:03:18,133 --> 00:03:24,400 That fungus break down the starch and convert it into sugar. 59 00:03:24,466 --> 00:03:25,533 What kind of Koji you make, 60 00:03:25,533 --> 00:03:29,400 that's directly reflect to the flavor of the sake. 61 00:03:29,400 --> 00:03:30,466 So, it's been one of the most 62 00:03:30,466 --> 00:03:34,166 important process, sake making. 63 00:03:34,433 --> 00:03:36,500 We steam rice for two different purpose. 64 00:03:36,500 --> 00:03:40,233 One is for Koji making, and one is for putting directly 65 00:03:40,233 --> 00:03:41,466 into the fermentation tank. 66 00:03:41,466 --> 00:03:47,466 We add water and together water and the Koji rice 67 00:03:48,000 --> 00:03:51,000 and the steamed rice takes about 25 days to finish 68 00:03:51,000 --> 00:03:56,333 the fermentation and we press the mash and it becomes sake. 69 00:03:57,533 --> 00:04:00,666 That press machine is super old school, 70 00:04:00,666 --> 00:04:02,300 and it requires manual labors, 71 00:04:02,300 --> 00:04:06,466 and it takes, actually, three days to press everything. 72 00:04:06,466 --> 00:04:11,100 So, by pressing using that way, sake becomes a little more 73 00:04:11,100 --> 00:04:17,066 rounder, softer, and tastes good too (laughs). 74 00:04:17,300 --> 00:04:19,700 (upbeat music) 75 00:04:22,466 --> 00:04:25,400 (door clacks) 76 00:04:26,466 --> 00:04:28,266 - I've never seen anything like this. 77 00:04:28,266 --> 00:04:31,333 I've been in breweries, in distilleries and wineries. 78 00:04:31,333 --> 00:04:34,000 This is completely unique. 79 00:04:34,300 --> 00:04:35,600 These tanks are full of water. 80 00:04:35,600 --> 00:04:36,466 - Full of water, yeah. 81 00:04:36,466 --> 00:04:37,466 - And how heavy are they? 82 00:04:37,466 --> 00:04:41,300 - So, one drum is about, like 500 pounds. 83 00:04:41,300 --> 00:04:44,466 So, both together, about 1,000 pounds. 84 00:04:45,000 --> 00:04:47,466 - So, a 1000 pounds are on this side, 85 00:04:47,466 --> 00:04:52,166 and you're gonna leave this hanging for about a day or so. 86 00:04:52,166 --> 00:04:52,566 Correct? 87 00:04:52,566 --> 00:04:54,466 - So, I started yesterday. 88 00:04:54,466 --> 00:04:56,633 I hang only one drum yesterday. 89 00:04:56,633 --> 00:04:59,133 Yesterday was the first day of pressing, 90 00:04:59,133 --> 00:05:00,066 and today is the second day, 91 00:05:00,066 --> 00:05:05,333 I hang two drums after restocking all the sake mash. 92 00:05:05,333 --> 00:05:08,300 Then, leave it til tomorrow. 93 00:05:08,466 --> 00:05:10,500 Then I remove all the sake lees, 94 00:05:10,500 --> 00:05:14,266 leftover rice solids, then start another pressing. 95 00:05:14,266 --> 00:05:18,366 - [Cat] And so you just are using massive amounts 96 00:05:18,366 --> 00:05:24,266 of pressure to get every single drop of liquid 97 00:05:24,466 --> 00:05:26,200 and flavor out of those rice grains. 98 00:05:26,200 --> 00:05:26,700 - [Yoshi] Yeah. 99 00:05:26,700 --> 00:05:28,333 - And so, it's coming out of the bottom. 100 00:05:28,333 --> 00:05:31,400 And then is it going into that other tank back there? 101 00:05:31,400 --> 00:05:32,233 - Yeah, exactly. 102 00:05:32,233 --> 00:05:33,033 - Then what happens? 103 00:05:33,033 --> 00:05:37,200 - So, two tanks was juice, is gonna go into this big tank, 104 00:05:37,200 --> 00:05:39,666 one tank and the other two tanks juice is gonna 105 00:05:39,666 --> 00:05:42,300 go into the other, 1,000 liter tank. 106 00:05:42,300 --> 00:05:46,400 After that, I leave it for about five days. 107 00:05:46,400 --> 00:05:51,033 After five days, all those white, kind of sediment 108 00:05:51,033 --> 00:05:53,300 will stay at the bottom, 109 00:05:53,300 --> 00:05:56,233 so I take out only clear part. 110 00:05:56,233 --> 00:05:56,566 - Okay. 111 00:05:56,566 --> 00:05:59,133 - So, that becomes the product. 112 00:05:59,133 --> 00:06:00,266 We gonna do bottling. 113 00:06:00,266 --> 00:06:02,433 Then, some products will be pasteurized 114 00:06:02,433 --> 00:06:06,466 and some products will be sold as unpasteurized. 115 00:06:06,466 --> 00:06:07,600 It's called Nama. 116 00:06:10,466 --> 00:06:14,000 - Now, my favorite part, we're going to taste the sake 117 00:06:14,000 --> 00:06:15,766 and we're gonna taste the pasteurized 118 00:06:15,766 --> 00:06:17,533 and the unpasteurized, side by side. 119 00:06:17,533 --> 00:06:22,300 - We'll start with unpasteurized, with Nama. 120 00:06:22,300 --> 00:06:25,333 - The aroma of sake is rich. 121 00:06:25,333 --> 00:06:27,533 There's a lot to it and, you know, 122 00:06:27,533 --> 00:06:29,333 the ingredients are so simple. 123 00:06:29,333 --> 00:06:33,366 Oakland tap water, sushi rice, Koji. 124 00:06:33,366 --> 00:06:34,166 - And yeast. 125 00:06:34,166 --> 00:06:35,133 - And the yeast. 126 00:06:35,133 --> 00:06:36,066 - Yeah. 127 00:06:36,066 --> 00:06:39,466 (soft bright music) 128 00:06:42,666 --> 00:06:43,733 - It's delicious. 129 00:06:43,733 --> 00:06:45,000 - Great. 130 00:06:45,000 --> 00:06:47,700 - There is so much depth of flavor, 131 00:06:47,700 --> 00:06:49,600 and it has a round mouth feel. 132 00:06:49,600 --> 00:06:52,466 It coats your tongue, but it really does have, 133 00:06:52,466 --> 00:06:56,233 kind of like, that sense of banana and mango. 134 00:06:56,233 --> 00:06:58,233 - Yeah tropical, a little bit. 135 00:06:58,233 --> 00:06:59,433 - Absolutely. 136 00:07:00,433 --> 00:07:01,466 It's delicious. 137 00:07:01,466 --> 00:07:04,766 (soft bright music) 138 00:07:10,300 --> 00:07:12,400 So this is much more crisp. 139 00:07:12,400 --> 00:07:18,466 It doesn't have that roundness that the other one did. 140 00:07:18,633 --> 00:07:20,000 - It's real sharp. - It's more austere, 141 00:07:20,000 --> 00:07:21,033 I would say. - Yeah, yeah. 142 00:07:21,033 --> 00:07:22,300 I would say Nama is more expressive, 143 00:07:22,300 --> 00:07:25,466 more bold, you know, more vibrant. 144 00:07:27,466 --> 00:07:31,066 (light guitar music) 145 00:07:31,366 --> 00:07:33,300 - Yoshi sources his rice from only one farm 146 00:07:33,300 --> 00:07:36,766 and that is here at Rue & Forsman Ranch near Sacramento. 147 00:07:36,766 --> 00:07:39,700 Not only does Michael Bosworth grow about 10 varieties 148 00:07:39,700 --> 00:07:42,700 of rice, he also uses the farm as a haven 149 00:07:42,700 --> 00:07:44,733 for migratory birds. 150 00:07:44,733 --> 00:07:48,266 (mellow guitar music) 151 00:07:48,266 --> 00:07:51,433 - Growing up on a farm, you're always wanting to see 152 00:07:51,433 --> 00:07:53,533 how you can use what you're growing. 153 00:07:53,533 --> 00:07:55,100 What other applications are there? 154 00:07:55,100 --> 00:07:57,033 I mean, obviously, we can make great sushi, 155 00:07:57,033 --> 00:07:58,433 we can make great Thai food, 156 00:07:58,433 --> 00:08:00,466 but, you know, to make a beverage, 157 00:08:00,466 --> 00:08:04,133 we'd never done anything like that before and so, you know, 158 00:08:04,133 --> 00:08:07,100 I'm always excited to collaborate with people 159 00:08:07,100 --> 00:08:08,233 that are passionate about food. 160 00:08:08,233 --> 00:08:10,566 And Yoshi is definitely one of those people. 161 00:08:10,566 --> 00:08:14,466 And I think he has a great approach to making his sake 162 00:08:14,466 --> 00:08:18,466 and, you know, it's just an exciting collaboration for us. 163 00:08:18,466 --> 00:08:21,666 (pleasant music) 164 00:08:22,266 --> 00:08:25,066 - What variety of rice do you grow for Yoshi? 165 00:08:25,066 --> 00:08:26,466 Cause you have, like, 10 different 166 00:08:26,466 --> 00:08:28,066 varieties under cultivation. 167 00:08:28,066 --> 00:08:28,766 - Yeah, that's right. 168 00:08:28,766 --> 00:08:31,700 So, we grow a variety called Calhikari for Yoshi. 169 00:08:31,700 --> 00:08:32,766 It's a variety that was developed 170 00:08:32,766 --> 00:08:36,100 by the Rice Experiment Station and it's a real great 171 00:08:36,100 --> 00:08:37,633 Japanese type short-grain variety 172 00:08:37,633 --> 00:08:41,100 that can be used for sushi and, obviously, now sake. 173 00:08:41,100 --> 00:08:44,566 Holds up well, it's got great flavor, great texture 174 00:08:44,566 --> 00:08:46,766 in the mouth and, you know, a nice aroma. 175 00:08:46,766 --> 00:08:50,466 It's just, you know, really delicious. 176 00:08:56,033 --> 00:09:00,300 - So, I was really struck by the partnership that you have 177 00:09:00,300 --> 00:09:03,466 with the Nature Conservancy to essentially act 178 00:09:03,466 --> 00:09:07,066 as a weigh station for migratory birds. 179 00:09:07,066 --> 00:09:08,566 How did all of that come about? 180 00:09:08,566 --> 00:09:12,033 - They developed a pilot project, a pilot program 181 00:09:12,033 --> 00:09:13,566 man, it was five or six years ago, 182 00:09:13,566 --> 00:09:16,466 and we participated in it. 183 00:09:16,466 --> 00:09:17,500 It's something that, you know, 184 00:09:17,500 --> 00:09:19,433 we thought had some real potential. 185 00:09:19,433 --> 00:09:22,133 What they did is they looked at, you know, 186 00:09:22,133 --> 00:09:24,466 various timings of flooding a field and depth 187 00:09:24,466 --> 00:09:28,200 and, kind of, cultural practices, what you did after you 188 00:09:28,200 --> 00:09:29,566 harvested it, with the straw and everything 189 00:09:29,566 --> 00:09:32,466 and really looked at that and looked at the bird response 190 00:09:32,466 --> 00:09:34,400 and they tracked that and they were out here every day 191 00:09:34,400 --> 00:09:36,466 counting birds and they came up with a great program 192 00:09:36,466 --> 00:09:39,266 that said, "Well this is the way to it, right. 193 00:09:39,266 --> 00:09:41,000 "This is the timing that's the most important. 194 00:09:41,000 --> 00:09:43,466 "This is the water depth that's the best for the birds 195 00:09:43,466 --> 00:09:45,766 "and this is the management from the farming side 196 00:09:45,766 --> 00:09:48,533 "that's the best", and then they scaled that program up, 197 00:09:48,533 --> 00:09:52,466 and we've been huge supporters of it ever since. 198 00:09:52,466 --> 00:09:54,466 - [Cat] So, what kind of birds do you see here? 199 00:09:54,466 --> 00:09:57,466 - All kind, I mean there's, obviously, you know, 200 00:09:57,466 --> 00:09:59,233 you're gonna have the traditional birds, 201 00:09:59,233 --> 00:10:00,766 ducks and geese and things like that, 202 00:10:00,766 --> 00:10:03,466 but when we started having lower water level 203 00:10:03,466 --> 00:10:06,466 for the migratory birds, you get dowitchers, 204 00:10:06,466 --> 00:10:10,466 you get sandpiper, you get avocets, stilts, 205 00:10:10,466 --> 00:10:14,466 so many different, you know, shore bird species 206 00:10:14,466 --> 00:10:17,066 than, I guess, you would typically see. 207 00:10:17,066 --> 00:10:18,333 - That's so cool. 208 00:10:18,333 --> 00:10:19,100 - Yeah. 209 00:10:19,100 --> 00:10:21,766 (wings fluttering 210 00:10:21,766 --> 00:10:24,466 (bird caws) 211 00:10:28,266 --> 00:10:31,633 (light guitar music) 212 00:10:38,600 --> 00:10:40,766 - A lot of people probably familiar with wine 213 00:10:40,766 --> 00:10:45,166 and so, you know, as alcohol beverage 214 00:10:45,166 --> 00:10:48,366 to pair with food, sake is kind of similar to wine. 215 00:10:48,366 --> 00:10:52,600 You know, sake also, you know, can be drunk with food, 216 00:10:52,600 --> 00:10:53,500 same as wine. 217 00:10:53,500 --> 00:10:56,533 And the biggest difference between wine and sake is 218 00:10:56,533 --> 00:11:00,333 wine's backbone is acidity, 219 00:11:00,333 --> 00:11:02,000 you know, the acid from the foods 220 00:11:02,000 --> 00:11:05,733 and sake's backbone is more amino acid, 221 00:11:05,733 --> 00:11:09,400 that creates more umami flavor, more savory-ness. 222 00:11:09,400 --> 00:11:10,466 That's the biggest difference. 223 00:11:10,466 --> 00:11:14,566 And, especially here, people are used to eating food 224 00:11:14,566 --> 00:11:18,466 with beverage with high acidity, like wine. 225 00:11:18,466 --> 00:11:23,366 So, I decided to raise acidity on my sake, 226 00:11:23,366 --> 00:11:27,233 so that people here, they don't really have 227 00:11:27,233 --> 00:11:33,133 to switch their brain to pair drinks with food. 228 00:11:33,400 --> 00:11:35,466 It's easier for them, I think and also, 229 00:11:35,466 --> 00:11:39,366 the food I eat here is a little bit different from food 230 00:11:39,366 --> 00:11:41,166 that Japanese people eat in Japan. 231 00:11:41,166 --> 00:11:43,466 Here, it's a little bit more protein-rich, 232 00:11:43,466 --> 00:11:46,066 little bit more fattier, so need the acidity 233 00:11:46,066 --> 00:11:47,466 to cut through it too. 234 00:11:47,466 --> 00:11:50,233 So, it's two reasons I kind of like decided 235 00:11:50,233 --> 00:11:53,233 to raise acidity for my sake. 236 00:11:53,233 --> 00:11:56,333 (pleasant music) 237 00:11:57,133 --> 00:12:00,133 (cars whizzing) 238 00:12:04,600 --> 00:12:06,466 - So, I'm standing here in the heart of San Francisco 239 00:12:06,466 --> 00:12:09,766 with Beau Timken, who is the founder of True Sake 240 00:12:09,766 --> 00:12:12,666 and how many years have you been doing this, 17? 241 00:12:12,666 --> 00:12:13,633 - This is the 17th year. 242 00:12:13,633 --> 00:12:17,400 So, we were the first people to open a dedicated sake store 243 00:12:17,400 --> 00:12:18,300 outside of Japan. 244 00:12:18,300 --> 00:12:19,766 - So, how did you get to know Yoshi? 245 00:12:19,766 --> 00:12:23,733 - Yoshi's done sake programs for different restaurants, 246 00:12:23,733 --> 00:12:25,333 and we just know each other through that 247 00:12:25,333 --> 00:12:27,366 and I knew Yoshi was very passionate. 248 00:12:27,366 --> 00:12:31,433 His wife, they're a team and that team is making fantastic 249 00:12:31,433 --> 00:12:34,133 sake right now that I'm very proud of selling, 250 00:12:34,133 --> 00:12:36,466 and I'm very proud of, you know when people come in 251 00:12:36,466 --> 00:12:37,766 and saying, "Let us taste something's 252 00:12:37,766 --> 00:12:39,700 "that's made in America" and Yoshi's done, 253 00:12:39,700 --> 00:12:41,300 just such a great job. 254 00:12:41,300 --> 00:12:42,466 Makes me very happy for him. 255 00:12:42,466 --> 00:12:45,500 - Yoshi, here in the heart, essentially, of wine country, 256 00:12:45,500 --> 00:12:48,733 is making a sake, specifically with a higher level 257 00:12:48,733 --> 00:12:53,300 of acidity, to pair with food and that's kind of what 258 00:12:53,300 --> 00:12:54,200 he's hoping for. 259 00:12:54,200 --> 00:12:56,033 Do you see other brewers, 260 00:12:56,033 --> 00:12:57,466 kind of, taking that approach? 261 00:12:57,466 --> 00:12:59,666 - Sure, I mean, that's the way it is in Japan. 262 00:12:59,666 --> 00:13:01,133 So, you're brewing for your village. 263 00:13:01,133 --> 00:13:03,033 You're brewing for what you eat and what you're made of. 264 00:13:03,033 --> 00:13:05,300 Yoshi, his village is Oakland, California, 265 00:13:05,300 --> 00:13:09,333 but it's also super food centric, food savvy people. 266 00:13:09,333 --> 00:13:11,500 So, he's making sakes that go well with burgers, 267 00:13:11,500 --> 00:13:15,666 go well with pasta, go well with all these alien foods 268 00:13:15,666 --> 00:13:18,300 to the sake world, but they fit. 269 00:13:18,300 --> 00:13:21,166 He makes sake that has body, has acidity, 270 00:13:21,166 --> 00:13:22,466 but it's for everything. 271 00:13:22,466 --> 00:13:23,466 I mean, snack food. 272 00:13:23,466 --> 00:13:25,466 Yoshi's sake with potato chips, 273 00:13:25,466 --> 00:13:27,366 forget about it, I'm not joking. 274 00:13:27,366 --> 00:13:28,466 It's great. 275 00:13:28,466 --> 00:13:31,733 (soft serene music) 276 00:13:32,466 --> 00:13:35,100 - So, Soba Ichi, which is right here on the same property 277 00:13:35,100 --> 00:13:37,266 as us, they were one of our first customers. 278 00:13:37,266 --> 00:13:40,466 They serve the sake and it's great, because people 279 00:13:40,466 --> 00:13:43,433 drink it here, they like it and, you know, 280 00:13:43,433 --> 00:13:45,466 they're able to say, "It's made right over there". 281 00:13:45,466 --> 00:13:49,533 So, people always think that's really interesting and cool. 282 00:13:49,533 --> 00:13:51,666 - Our specialty is soba. 283 00:13:51,666 --> 00:13:56,466 Soba is Japanese buckwheat noodles, 284 00:13:56,466 --> 00:13:59,500 which is very traditional 285 00:13:59,500 --> 00:14:01,366 or popular in Japan. 286 00:14:01,366 --> 00:14:05,466 It's a great collaboration with Den Sake and our food. 287 00:14:07,166 --> 00:14:10,433 - Besides serving the sake as a drink, the chef, Koichi 288 00:14:10,433 --> 00:14:14,033 also uses the sake kasu, which are the pressed lees, 289 00:14:14,033 --> 00:14:17,666 and he uses it to make, actually, a cheese appetizer. 290 00:14:17,666 --> 00:14:20,466 He mixes it with cream cheese and you can really taste, 291 00:14:20,466 --> 00:14:23,433 kind of the sweetness from the sake. 292 00:14:23,600 --> 00:14:26,766 It's kind of neat that the byproduct from making the sake 293 00:14:26,766 --> 00:14:27,566 doesn't go to waste. 294 00:14:27,566 --> 00:14:31,166 Chefs are able to use it in dishes they prepare. 295 00:14:31,166 --> 00:14:34,466 (soft serene music) 296 00:14:41,766 --> 00:14:44,500 - Our next stop is here in Healdsburg, California 297 00:14:44,500 --> 00:14:46,733 at SingleThread Farms, where Japanese ethos 298 00:14:46,733 --> 00:14:51,300 is woven throughout the entire, incredible experience. 299 00:14:51,466 --> 00:14:55,133 (soft serene music) 300 00:14:58,466 --> 00:14:59,600 So, explain the menu here. 301 00:14:59,600 --> 00:15:01,466 I mean, obviously it's rotating with the seasons, 302 00:15:01,466 --> 00:15:03,533 but just, generally, when people come in, 303 00:15:03,533 --> 00:15:06,366 what kind of experience are they going to have? 304 00:15:06,366 --> 00:15:07,200 - So, it's 11 courses. 305 00:15:07,200 --> 00:15:10,333 Ideally in good weather you start with a glass of champagne 306 00:15:10,333 --> 00:15:12,766 on a rooftop, kind of relaxing and watching the sunset. 307 00:15:12,766 --> 00:15:16,466 Then you come down and we have what we internally 308 00:15:16,466 --> 00:15:17,466 refer to as the hassun course, 309 00:15:17,466 --> 00:15:21,133 which is an array of small bites, fresh fish, 310 00:15:21,133 --> 00:15:23,733 fresh produce from the farm and then, you know, 311 00:15:23,733 --> 00:15:27,000 10 courses from there, really all kind of rooted 312 00:15:27,000 --> 00:15:29,466 very closely, thematically with their place, 313 00:15:29,466 --> 00:15:32,466 historically in kaseki cuisine, but of course, 314 00:15:32,466 --> 00:15:33,300 our rendition on it. 315 00:15:33,300 --> 00:15:36,566 - And so, how does sake kind of weave its way 316 00:15:36,566 --> 00:15:38,200 into the wine program? 317 00:15:38,200 --> 00:15:40,000 - It's usually, actually, later on in the menu 318 00:15:40,000 --> 00:15:42,166 with, kind of, more aromatic, more savory dishes. 319 00:15:42,166 --> 00:15:44,300 Often times, pairing with sake can be slightly challenging. 320 00:15:44,300 --> 00:15:48,300 They don't have that same, sort of, high acidity, 321 00:15:48,300 --> 00:15:50,466 mouth-watering, crisp quality to them 322 00:15:50,466 --> 00:15:53,266 that a lot of white wines can give you very naturally. 323 00:15:53,266 --> 00:15:56,466 And so Den Sake, you know, that really gets a little more 324 00:15:56,466 --> 00:15:57,466 total acid to it. 325 00:15:57,466 --> 00:16:00,333 It's really amazing how well I can slot it 326 00:16:00,333 --> 00:16:02,033 into a lot of our different courses. 327 00:16:02,033 --> 00:16:06,166 - You're pairing the Den Sake with a dish here on the menu. 328 00:16:06,166 --> 00:16:07,300 Can you tell me about the dish? 329 00:16:07,300 --> 00:16:10,633 - So, the dish is traditionally a white fish dish. 330 00:16:10,633 --> 00:16:13,466 Often times we're using coastal black cod from here 331 00:16:13,466 --> 00:16:14,466 off the California coast. 332 00:16:14,466 --> 00:16:17,066 It's been smoked over cherry blossom wood 333 00:16:17,066 --> 00:16:18,466 in one of those earthenware vessels. 334 00:16:18,466 --> 00:16:21,700 There's one called an ibushi gin or smoker. 335 00:16:21,700 --> 00:16:24,033 We take the lid off table side and kind of put it 336 00:16:24,033 --> 00:16:25,233 in the center and it wafts all this wonderful 337 00:16:25,233 --> 00:16:28,100 cherry blossom wood smoke, kind of all throughout the table. 338 00:16:28,100 --> 00:16:30,200 And, for tables that haven't quite gotten 339 00:16:30,200 --> 00:16:32,333 that far on the menu, it's also kind of awesome, 340 00:16:32,333 --> 00:16:34,133 because they're like, "Oh my gosh, what is that smell? 341 00:16:34,133 --> 00:16:36,466 "I can't wait to get to that course." 342 00:16:36,466 --> 00:16:37,500 Kind of builds anticipation. 343 00:16:37,500 --> 00:16:40,066 - Well, that's what I love is that it feels like here 344 00:16:40,066 --> 00:16:42,033 there are kind of like these little extremely 345 00:16:42,033 --> 00:16:44,466 thoughtful surprises around every corner. 346 00:16:44,466 --> 00:16:47,266 The idea that you can choose this handmade cup 347 00:16:47,266 --> 00:16:48,466 and it's completely unique. 348 00:16:48,466 --> 00:16:51,466 The fact that you're serving the sake out of vessels truly 349 00:16:51,466 --> 00:16:54,500 made in Japan and it's this very, kind of, hushed 350 00:16:54,500 --> 00:16:59,266 and quiet environment that allows people to fully, 351 00:16:59,266 --> 00:17:01,400 I think experience the flavors 352 00:17:01,400 --> 00:17:03,466 and the sights and the sounds. 353 00:17:03,466 --> 00:17:04,166 - Absolutely. 354 00:17:04,166 --> 00:17:06,000 A lot of people say it's almost like there's a dance going 355 00:17:06,000 --> 00:17:07,433 when you dine here. 356 00:17:07,433 --> 00:17:09,500 Things kind of just come and go and waft by. 357 00:17:09,500 --> 00:17:12,666 We really try to appeal to all the senses and such. 358 00:17:12,666 --> 00:17:16,433 (soft strings music) 359 00:17:22,166 --> 00:17:25,466 - Here at Quince in San Francisco, wine is the major star 360 00:17:25,466 --> 00:17:29,033 of the beverage program and because of its high acidity, 361 00:17:29,033 --> 00:17:30,466 Den Sake has made the list. 362 00:17:30,466 --> 00:17:32,733 Let's check in with their sommelier now. 363 00:17:32,733 --> 00:17:36,066 (pleasant music) 364 00:17:36,600 --> 00:17:39,466 This is a restaurant that is very, very wine-focused 365 00:17:39,466 --> 00:17:45,500 and Yoshi kind of like, got the door open to be included 366 00:17:45,766 --> 00:17:48,033 in your tasting menu, right? 367 00:17:48,033 --> 00:17:49,766 - So, we have one tasting menu for the evening, 368 00:17:49,766 --> 00:17:52,466 and then we offer a wine and sometimes other beverage 369 00:17:52,466 --> 00:17:55,166 pairing, so we kind of came to a dish 370 00:17:55,166 --> 00:17:57,500 that needed something a little different. 371 00:17:57,500 --> 00:17:58,533 So, this dish came out. 372 00:17:58,533 --> 00:17:59,633 It was called wild nettles. 373 00:17:59,633 --> 00:18:03,733 It had potato, oyster, basically, kind of a different 374 00:18:03,733 --> 00:18:05,433 version of a chowder. 375 00:18:05,433 --> 00:18:07,466 So, we were tasting all of these wines with it 376 00:18:07,466 --> 00:18:11,333 and nothing was really working out for us. 377 00:18:11,333 --> 00:18:13,266 - And so when you tasted that Den Sake, 378 00:18:13,266 --> 00:18:16,566 what were the flavors in that sake, in particular, 379 00:18:16,566 --> 00:18:18,566 that worked with this particular dish? 380 00:18:18,566 --> 00:18:22,100 - Oddly enough, there was this banana and tropical note 381 00:18:22,100 --> 00:18:25,166 in this sake that I just kind of fell in love with, 382 00:18:25,166 --> 00:18:27,466 and for me, it was a very textural pairing. 383 00:18:27,466 --> 00:18:31,000 That's what we were missing with wine or other beverages. 384 00:18:31,000 --> 00:18:32,466 It kind of just enveloped the oyster. 385 00:18:32,466 --> 00:18:35,400 It had enough acidity to cut through the creamy aspect 386 00:18:35,400 --> 00:18:38,100 of the dish and that banana note kind of worked 387 00:18:38,100 --> 00:18:41,666 with the wild nettle, which is a notoriously difficult 388 00:18:41,666 --> 00:18:43,166 ingredient to pair with. 389 00:18:43,166 --> 00:18:44,433 - Like, artichokes or something like that. 390 00:18:44,433 --> 00:18:45,466 - It's something like that. 391 00:18:45,466 --> 00:18:47,500 Artichoke, eggplant, those kind of ingredients. 392 00:18:47,500 --> 00:18:50,466 The Den Sake, it came in here. 393 00:18:50,466 --> 00:18:51,433 It was perfect. 394 00:18:51,433 --> 00:18:52,333 It was received well. 395 00:18:52,333 --> 00:18:54,466 That's what makes that sake so unique, 396 00:18:54,466 --> 00:18:57,766 is that it can kind of cut through those richer elements, 397 00:18:57,766 --> 00:19:01,366 which you would normally never be able to do with a sake. 398 00:19:01,366 --> 00:19:05,133 (light pleasant music) 399 00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:19,366 - Here at Rintaro, which is actually one of Yoshi 400 00:19:19,366 --> 00:19:20,466 and Lani's favorite restaurants, 401 00:19:20,466 --> 00:19:22,266 their sake is on the list, but what's more exciting 402 00:19:22,266 --> 00:19:25,300 is that the lees from their sake making process 403 00:19:25,300 --> 00:19:28,433 actually makes an appearance in the kitchen. 404 00:19:34,466 --> 00:19:36,466 So, I'm standing here in Rintaro. 405 00:19:36,466 --> 00:19:39,366 Yoshi and Lani, they said this was kind of like 406 00:19:39,366 --> 00:19:41,566 their favorite place and like, they used to, 407 00:19:41,566 --> 00:19:43,200 when they lived closer to the restaurant, 408 00:19:43,200 --> 00:19:44,366 they would be here every week. 409 00:19:44,366 --> 00:19:47,166 - Yeah, they were just absolutely regular customers 410 00:19:47,166 --> 00:19:49,633 and they would come late and they would drink a lot, 411 00:19:49,633 --> 00:19:51,400 and they would sit at the yakitori grill, 412 00:19:51,400 --> 00:19:54,200 and when he started experimenting with making 413 00:19:54,200 --> 00:19:57,033 his own sake, he would bring us his lees, 414 00:19:57,033 --> 00:19:58,466 like the sake pressings. 415 00:19:58,466 --> 00:20:00,466 They were always really flavorful, 416 00:20:00,466 --> 00:20:03,166 really aromatic and delicious. 417 00:20:03,166 --> 00:20:05,666 So, I've been using them for a long time, actually. 418 00:20:05,666 --> 00:20:07,600 - So, what do you do with the lees? 419 00:20:07,600 --> 00:20:11,300 - The thing that I do mostly is preserve fish. 420 00:20:11,300 --> 00:20:14,233 I use it to cure black cod, sometimes to cure 421 00:20:14,233 --> 00:20:15,466 the local king salmon. 422 00:20:15,466 --> 00:20:18,466 We also occasionally make a soup out of it. 423 00:20:18,466 --> 00:20:19,666 It's kind of like a miso soup 424 00:20:19,666 --> 00:20:23,133 and rather than adding miso, you add the sake lees 425 00:20:23,133 --> 00:20:27,466 and I've got a sake lees pickled wasabi. 426 00:20:27,466 --> 00:20:31,133 (soft serene music) 427 00:20:41,066 --> 00:20:42,566 - Next up, we're stopping by Umami Mart 428 00:20:42,566 --> 00:20:46,666 to chat with Yoko about how best to serve sake. 429 00:20:50,466 --> 00:20:53,166 So, there are an array of glasses 430 00:20:53,166 --> 00:20:55,233 to be able to enjoy your sake. 431 00:20:55,233 --> 00:20:58,533 Kind of explain to me why these are designed 432 00:20:58,533 --> 00:21:01,066 the way that they're designed in order 433 00:21:01,066 --> 00:21:04,766 to enhance the flavor and aroma of the sake. 434 00:21:04,766 --> 00:21:06,000 - Those are meant for hot sake. 435 00:21:06,000 --> 00:21:11,000 One of the reasons why is because they're easier to heat 436 00:21:11,000 --> 00:21:13,533 in a bath of water, or the tokkuri is, 437 00:21:13,533 --> 00:21:18,466 and then the ceramic is easier to hold, if it's warm. 438 00:21:18,466 --> 00:21:20,000 - And then, how about these? These are so fun. 439 00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:22,466 - So, those are wonderful because you have the stem, 440 00:21:22,466 --> 00:21:25,200 so if you're having a chilled sake and you really 441 00:21:25,200 --> 00:21:28,400 don't want the heat from your fingers to transfer 442 00:21:28,400 --> 00:21:30,466 to the sake, this is a nice option. 443 00:21:30,466 --> 00:21:32,766 Just like a wine glass too, for the stem. 444 00:21:32,766 --> 00:21:36,433 - So, there are also wooden boxes that are used 445 00:21:36,433 --> 00:21:37,366 for drinking sake? 446 00:21:37,366 --> 00:21:38,066 - Yes yeah. 447 00:21:38,066 --> 00:21:38,700 They're called masu. 448 00:21:38,700 --> 00:21:39,733 I have one right here. 449 00:21:39,733 --> 00:21:44,000 Masus are wooden boxes made from cedar. 450 00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:47,766 Commonly, you're gonna see a flute like this in the masu, 451 00:21:47,766 --> 00:21:50,466 and then they'll pour the sake into the flute 452 00:21:50,466 --> 00:21:54,733 and then they'll let it overflow. 453 00:21:54,733 --> 00:21:58,500 And this is an expression of plentifulness, 454 00:21:58,500 --> 00:22:02,033 of, you know, being grateful to whoever it is 455 00:22:02,033 --> 00:22:05,466 you're pouring for, like an overflowing of, you know, 456 00:22:05,466 --> 00:22:08,466 of bounty and kind of, you know, gratitude. 457 00:22:08,466 --> 00:22:11,300 - And again, it's like sake is a wonderful beverage. 458 00:22:11,300 --> 00:22:13,300 You can put it in just a straight up wine glass, 459 00:22:13,300 --> 00:22:16,466 but being able to use all these different ways 460 00:22:16,466 --> 00:22:19,766 to consume it, it adds just one more level of, 461 00:22:19,766 --> 00:22:21,100 just kind of, fun to it, 462 00:22:21,100 --> 00:22:22,033 frankly. - Yeah. 463 00:22:22,033 --> 00:22:25,166 (pleasant music) 464 00:22:25,466 --> 00:22:27,133 - Yoko, actually, she does have this bar 465 00:22:27,133 --> 00:22:30,033 and the Den Sake is your biggest seller. 466 00:22:30,033 --> 00:22:31,166 - It is, yeah. 467 00:22:31,166 --> 00:22:32,300 It's delicious. 468 00:22:32,300 --> 00:22:36,400 People really seem to relate to the flavor profile. 469 00:22:36,400 --> 00:22:38,400 Once, you know, you pour it for people, 470 00:22:38,400 --> 00:22:39,733 they really remember it. 471 00:22:39,733 --> 00:22:42,266 There's kind of this, like, you know, distinct 472 00:22:42,266 --> 00:22:46,700 Den aroma that he's cultivated in the past seven batches 473 00:22:46,700 --> 00:22:48,433 at this point. 474 00:22:49,466 --> 00:22:52,533 - Yoshi, he's learned complexity. 475 00:22:52,533 --> 00:22:54,100 Sometimes some Namas are too big. 476 00:22:54,100 --> 00:22:57,566 Yoshi's Namas have great food partner. 477 00:22:57,566 --> 00:22:58,466 It has strength. 478 00:22:58,466 --> 00:22:59,400 It's solid. 479 00:22:59,400 --> 00:23:01,166 He only has limited ingredients, right? 480 00:23:01,166 --> 00:23:02,466 He's got Oakland water man 481 00:23:02,466 --> 00:23:05,133 and he's got rice from up in Sacramento. 482 00:23:05,133 --> 00:23:07,333 And he's working within these confines 483 00:23:07,333 --> 00:23:11,300 and he's making sake that tastes like Japanese sake. 484 00:23:11,300 --> 00:23:13,733 (light bouncy music) 485 00:23:13,733 --> 00:23:17,300 - Having been his friend before he started making sake, 486 00:23:17,300 --> 00:23:18,666 when he still was in the restaurant industry, 487 00:23:18,666 --> 00:23:22,733 what did you think as he was making this transition 488 00:23:22,733 --> 00:23:26,266 to producing a local product? 489 00:23:26,266 --> 00:23:28,600 I mean, that's a huge leap to take. 490 00:23:28,600 --> 00:23:32,066 - It seemed hard, cause I know that, like a lot of really 491 00:23:32,066 --> 00:23:35,466 traditional Japanese products, there's so much technique, 492 00:23:35,466 --> 00:23:37,333 and so much history and culture 493 00:23:37,333 --> 00:23:41,066 and skill that's acquired over, you know, 494 00:23:41,066 --> 00:23:43,700 generations and generations and generations. 495 00:23:43,700 --> 00:23:47,000 But, the fact that he was such a sake devotee, 496 00:23:47,000 --> 00:23:51,466 to begin with and he's got such an enthusiasm. 497 00:23:51,466 --> 00:23:52,266 - It's worked. 498 00:23:52,266 --> 00:23:53,466 - It's worked extremely well, yeah. 499 00:23:53,466 --> 00:23:55,666 - I can't believe he's only been open for, 500 00:23:55,666 --> 00:23:57,500 not even two years. 501 00:23:57,500 --> 00:23:58,466 - Yeah, it's impressive. 502 00:23:58,466 --> 00:24:01,000 It's impressive, because of him and like, 503 00:24:01,000 --> 00:24:04,266 his single-mindedness, which I think 504 00:24:04,266 --> 00:24:05,733 is why it's a good sake. 505 00:24:05,733 --> 00:24:07,766 (pleasant music) 506 00:24:07,766 --> 00:24:11,066 - It's been about a year since he released batch one 507 00:24:11,066 --> 00:24:12,200 and it's been amazing. 508 00:24:12,200 --> 00:24:16,766 It's just taken off more than we ever thought. 509 00:24:16,766 --> 00:24:20,166 The James Beard nomination was humbling. 510 00:24:20,166 --> 00:24:24,433 The first time, ever, a sake producer was nominated. 511 00:24:26,766 --> 00:24:28,566 - Sake making, you know, in the beginning, 512 00:24:28,566 --> 00:24:33,033 I just wanted to see how it's going, how they do it. 513 00:24:33,033 --> 00:24:35,366 Then, little by little, I kind of like, 514 00:24:35,366 --> 00:24:40,066 I started to, having more motivation in the going deeper 515 00:24:40,066 --> 00:24:41,266 to the sake making process. 516 00:24:41,266 --> 00:24:46,266 You know, once I started the test brewing, I realized, 517 00:24:46,266 --> 00:24:49,333 "Wow, this cannot be just a side job. 518 00:24:49,333 --> 00:24:53,566 "I have to fully put myself into it". 519 00:24:54,466 --> 00:24:57,333 I started getting know about the ingredients, 520 00:24:57,333 --> 00:25:03,400 how I can treat them to create my ideal style sake. 521 00:25:03,466 --> 00:25:05,533 I kind of started to having more, you know, 522 00:25:05,533 --> 00:25:08,500 confidence about, you know, what I can make, 523 00:25:08,500 --> 00:25:10,466 but it's never ending. 524 00:25:10,466 --> 00:25:12,633 I'm still learning every day. 525 00:25:14,066 --> 00:25:17,166 Every time I make sake, I learn something new. 526 00:25:17,166 --> 00:25:20,300 (pleasant music) 527 00:25:23,033 --> 00:25:25,333 - For more information on Den Sake Brewery, 528 00:25:25,333 --> 00:25:27,466 as well as all the other incredible makers 529 00:25:27,466 --> 00:25:28,466 we featured in this series, 530 00:25:28,466 --> 00:25:30,500 just head to wearetastemakers.com. 531 00:25:30,500 --> 00:25:33,400 Thanks for joining me here in California 532 00:25:33,400 --> 00:25:35,333 and I'll see you next time. 533 00:25:35,633 --> 00:25:39,133 Connect with us online at wearetastemakers.com 534 00:25:39,133 --> 00:25:42,466 through social media on these handles. 535 00:25:42,466 --> 00:25:46,300 (bright lively music) 536 00:26:04,200 --> 00:26:07,500 - [Announcer] tasteMAKERS was funded in part by... 537 00:26:07,500 --> 00:26:11,166 (soft serene music) 538 00:26:19,533 --> 00:26:21,466 - [Narrator] In the hands of those who take pride 539 00:26:21,466 --> 00:26:26,466 in what they do, something unique can be created. 540 00:26:28,733 --> 00:26:31,466 Edward Jones is proud to support the craftspeople 541 00:26:31,466 --> 00:26:34,500 who define the Maker Movement. 542 00:26:37,766 --> 00:26:40,733 (dreamy music) 543 00:26:43,066 --> 00:26:45,633 (upbeat music)