- [surfer] It takes a lot of practice.
It takes a lot of observation.
- [Paul Schonfeld] You see the wave coming, you kind of feel it approach your feet.
Maybe you get one or two strong paddles in and within a second, you pop up onto your board.
(intense music plays) (music quickens) (waves crash) - [surfer] When I first started it, it was more scary, and, you know, I would worry that I was going to have to hold my breath for a super long time.
Now that's still the case, you still have to hold your breath, but you just learn to relax and wait for the wave to pass over, and then you come up and rest and recuperate before the next wave comes.
(quick music plays) - [Paul] And then, there are days when the waves get really big and you kind of push your limits and see, I don't know, how big of a wave you can catch.
And those are the days when, yeah, the adrenaline gets going.
(fast music plays) (music fades) - [narrator] The Slice from WDSE WRPT.