WEBVTT 00:00.333 --> 00:02.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Hi, I'm Rick Steves, exploring a city that in many 00:02.533 --> 00:05.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ways is the capital of our Western civilization. 00:05.333 --> 00:09.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For the next hour we'll enjoy eternally entertaining and 00:09.333 --> 00:13.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% endlessly inspiring Rome. Thanks for joining us. 00:13.733 --> 00:23.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ♫ 00:23.533 --> 00:30.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ♫ 00:30.133 --> 00:36.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ♫ 00:36.133 --> 00:43.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ♫ 00:45.333 --> 00:48.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We'll marvel at the biggies: the Forum, the Colosseum, 00:49.366 --> 00:52.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the Pantheon, and the empire's exquisite art. 00:53.166 --> 00:54.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We'll also wander into some 00:54.366 --> 00:56.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of Rome's oldest and most colorful 00:56.366 --> 00:58.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% neighborhoods. After visiting some of 00:58.366 --> 01:00.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% early Christianity's holiest shrines, 01:00.400 --> 01:02.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% we'll enjoy a walking tour of some of 01:02.566 --> 01:04.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome's many offbeat churches housing 01:04.566 --> 01:08.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% artistic gems. Rome is the birthplace 01:08.366 --> 01:11.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of the Baroque and we'll see masterpieces 01:11.366 --> 01:13.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% by the movement's father, Bernini. 01:13.566 --> 01:15.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We'll cross the border into the Vatican 01:15.766 --> 01:18.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and ponder sunbeams in St. Peter's. 01:19.166 --> 01:20.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And we'll dine really well 01:20.766 --> 01:23.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% before going local after dark and 01:23.366 --> 01:24.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% lacing together some of the 01:24.566 --> 01:27.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Eternal City's most romantic night spots. 01:28.166 --> 01:30.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We'll start where it all began: 01:30.166 --> 01:34.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in this little valley amongst the fabled Seven Hills. 01:34.766 --> 01:36.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In a nutshell, classical Rome lasted about 01:36.766 --> 01:40.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a thousand years, roughly 500 BC to 500 AD. 01:40.366 --> 01:43.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome grew for 500 years, peaked for 200 years, 01:43.566 --> 01:45.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and fell for 300 years. 01:45.166 --> 01:48.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The first half was the republic, ruled by elected senators. 01:48.766 --> 01:52.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The last half was the empire, ruled by unelected emperors. 01:53.766 --> 01:56.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In its glory days, the word "Rome" meant 01:56.366 --> 01:59.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% not just the city, but what Romans considered 01:59.366 --> 02:01.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the entire civilized world. 02:01.566 --> 02:04.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Everyone was either Roman or barbarian. 02:04.233 --> 02:06.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% People who spoke Latin or Greek were 02:06.033 --> 02:08.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% considered civilized, part of the empire. 02:08.033 --> 02:09.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Everyone else, barbarian. 02:10.433 --> 02:12.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% According to legend, Rome was founded 02:12.200 --> 02:14.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% by two brothers, Romulus and Remus. 02:14.666 --> 02:17.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Abandoned in the wild and suckled by a she-wolf, 02:17.633 --> 02:20.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% they grew up to establish the city. 02:21.300 --> 02:24.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In actuality, the first Romans mixed and mingled here, 02:24.300 --> 02:27.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in the valley between the famous Seven Hills of Rome. 02:27.633 --> 02:30.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This became the Roman Forum. 02:30.633 --> 02:35.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ♪ 02:37.433 --> 02:39.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In 509, they tossed out their king 02:40.033 --> 02:42.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and established the relatively democratic Roman Republic. 02:42.600 --> 02:44.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% That began perhaps history's greatest success story -- 02:44.633 --> 02:45.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the rise of Rome. 02:48.266 --> 02:51.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% From the start, Romans were expert builders, 02:51.233 --> 02:53.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and they had a knack for effective government. 02:53.166 --> 02:54.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This simple brick building 02:54.433 --> 02:56.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was once richly veneered with marble 02:56.533 --> 02:58.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and fronted by a grand portico. 02:59.066 --> 03:01.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It's the Curia. 03:01.500 --> 03:03.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The senate met here and set the legal standards 03:03.700 --> 03:06.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that still guide Western civilization. 03:08.633 --> 03:10.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The reign of Julius Caesar, who ruled around 03:10.466 --> 03:12.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the time of Christ, marked the turning point 03:12.333 --> 03:14.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% between the republic and the empire. 03:14.433 --> 03:16.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The republic, designed to rule 03:16.633 --> 03:18.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a small city-state, found itself trying 03:18.466 --> 03:20.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to rule most of Europe. 03:20.366 --> 03:21.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Something new and stronger was needed. 03:21.733 --> 03:23.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Caesar established a no-nonsense, 03:24.033 --> 03:26.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% more disciplined government, became dictator for life, 03:26.300 --> 03:27.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and, for good measure, 03:28.033 --> 03:29.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% had a month named in his honor...July. 03:32.566 --> 03:34.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The powerful elites of the republic 03:34.433 --> 03:36.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% found all this change just too radical. 03:36.566 --> 03:38.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In an attempt to save the republic 03:38.533 --> 03:40.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and their political power, 03:40.533 --> 03:44.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a faction of Roman senators assassinated Caesar. 03:44.066 --> 03:47.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% His body was burned on this spot in 44 BC. 03:51.700 --> 03:54.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The citizens of Rome gathered here in the heart of the Forum 03:54.233 --> 03:56.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to hear Mark Antony say, in Shakespeare's words, 03:56.400 --> 03:58.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% "Friends, Romans, countrymen, 03:58.300 --> 04:01.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% lend me your ears. 04:01.266 --> 04:04.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I've come to bury Caesar, not to praise him." 04:04.100 --> 04:06.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% But the republic was finished, and Rome became 04:06.400 --> 04:08.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the grand capital of a grand empire. 04:12.033 --> 04:13.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Via Sacra, or "Sacred Way," 04:13.566 --> 04:16.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was the main street of ancient Rome. 04:16.366 --> 04:18.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It stretched from the Arch of Septimius Severus 04:18.133 --> 04:20.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to the Arch of Titus. 04:20.166 --> 04:21.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome's various triumphal arches, 04:21.366 --> 04:23.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% named after the emperors who built them, 04:23.200 --> 04:26.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% functioned as public-relations tools. 04:26.433 --> 04:28.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Reliefs decorating the various arches 04:29.033 --> 04:31.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% show how war and expansion were the business of state. 04:33.066 --> 04:34.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome's thriving economy was fueled by 04:35.033 --> 04:37.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% plunder and slaves won in distant wars. 04:39.633 --> 04:40.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Ancient Rome had a population of 04:40.766 --> 04:42.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% over a million at its peak, 04:42.633 --> 04:44.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and anywhere you dig in the modern city, 04:44.766 --> 04:46.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% you'll find remains of the ancient one. 04:48.266 --> 04:50.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Largo Argentina is a modern transportation hub, 04:50.633 --> 04:52.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with traffic roaring all around 04:52.666 --> 04:54.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% some of Rome's oldest temples. 04:55.166 --> 04:56.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Capitoline Hill, 04:56.666 --> 04:59.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% which rises majestically from the busy streets, 04:59.200 --> 05:01.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% has long been the home of Rome's city government. 05:01.700 --> 05:03.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% During the Renaissance, 05:03.733 --> 05:05.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Michelangelo designed this regal staircase. 05:07.633 --> 05:10.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% He gave the square its famously harmonious proportions 05:10.633 --> 05:13.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and its majestic centerpiece... 05:13.300 --> 05:15.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% An ancient statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. 05:17.266 --> 05:19.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This is a copy. 05:19.066 --> 05:20.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The second-century original, 05:20.600 --> 05:23.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the greatest equestrian statue of antiquity, 05:23.133 --> 05:25.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is showcased in the adjacent Capitoline Museum. 05:25.600 --> 05:28.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This, like the other great statues of antiquity, 05:28.466 --> 05:30.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is now safely out of the elements. 05:34.166 --> 05:35.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The museum helps you imagine life 05:35.766 --> 05:37.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% before the fall of Rome. 05:38.666 --> 05:40.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These reliefs show Marcus Aurelius 05:40.733 --> 05:44.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% performing the various duties of an emperor. 05:44.500 --> 05:46.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Here, as the chief priest, or "pontifex maximus," 05:47.000 --> 05:48.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% he prepares to sacrifice a bull. 05:49.566 --> 05:50.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Here, on the battlefield, 05:50.766 --> 05:53.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% he grants clemency to vanquished barbarian leaders. 05:55.533 --> 05:57.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And this one puts you curbside at 05:57.533 --> 05:59.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a victory parade with the emperor, 05:59.266 --> 06:01.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the Eisenhower of his day, on a chariot, 06:01.700 --> 06:03.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Winged Victory on his shoulder, 06:03.433 --> 06:05.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and trumpets proclaiming his glory. 06:08.533 --> 06:14.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ♪ 06:14.233 --> 06:17.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The art of imperial Rome almost always carried a message. 06:17.233 --> 06:20.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This "Dying Gaul," a Roman copy of 06:20.033 --> 06:21.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a Greek original, was part of a monument 06:21.633 --> 06:25.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% celebrating another victory over the barbarians. 06:25.066 --> 06:26.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Like any propaganda art, 06:26.600 --> 06:28.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% battle scenes stoked imperial pride. 06:33.133 --> 06:34.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% You can wander among 06:34.433 --> 06:37.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% heroic statues in grand halls 06:37.066 --> 06:40.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and look into the eyes of long-forgotten emperors. 06:43.600 --> 06:45.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And the museum also shows a more peaceful 06:45.733 --> 06:48.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and intimate side of Roman life. 06:48.133 --> 06:50.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Here, a boy quietly pulls a thorn from his foot. 06:56.233 --> 06:57.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% At first glance, these look like paintings, 06:57.666 --> 06:59.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% but they're actually 06:59.066 --> 07:01.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% micro-mosaics, made of thousands of tiny chips. 07:04.666 --> 07:06.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This mosaic hung in Emperor Hadrian's villa. 07:12.666 --> 07:15.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Romans emulated the high culture of the Greeks, 07:15.266 --> 07:17.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and when it came to capturing beauty, 07:17.066 --> 07:21.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% their forte was making excellent copies of Greek originals. 07:24.066 --> 07:26.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The "Capitoline Venus" is one of the truest representations 07:26.666 --> 07:29.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of the concept of feminine beauty from ancient times. 07:31.133 --> 07:33.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Like so many classical statues, 07:33.100 --> 07:35.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% this is a 2,000-year-old Roman copy of 07:35.133 --> 07:37.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a 2,500-year-old Greek original. 07:40.200 --> 07:42.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And this statue, called the "Drunken Faun," 07:42.500 --> 07:44.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is a playful reminder that a trait of ancient Rome 07:44.466 --> 07:46.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that survives to this day 07:46.200 --> 07:49.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is a fondness for good food and fine wine. 07:54.400 --> 07:56.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Part of your Roman experience, regardless of your budget, 07:57.000 --> 07:59.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% should be experiencing a fine meal, 07:59.766 --> 08:02.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and we're doing that "al fresco" on Piazza Farnese. 08:04.300 --> 08:07.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We're starting with a great spread of "antipasti"... 08:07.300 --> 08:08.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% prosciutto, 08:09.333 --> 08:11.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% porcini mushrooms, 08:11.700 --> 08:13.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% "puntarelle," a local salad, 08:13.700 --> 08:16.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and fresh mozzarella. 08:16.500 --> 08:18.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% As everywhere, eat with the season. 08:19.066 --> 08:22.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Tonight we said, "Bring on whatever's fresh." 08:22.733 --> 08:26.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Travelers can enjoy better restaurants without going broke 08:26.366 --> 08:28.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% by sharing an array of smaller dishes. 08:29.400 --> 08:31.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And now the pasta. 08:31.733 --> 08:33.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I often find 08:33.333 --> 08:34.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the "antipasti" and pasta dishes 08:34.733 --> 08:36.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% more varied and interesting 08:36.333 --> 08:39.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% than the more expensive "secondi," or main courses. 08:39.133 --> 08:42.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Even in early May, it's plenty warm to dine outside. 08:43.300 --> 08:46.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Dinner within splashing distance of a tub from 08:46.133 --> 08:50.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the ancient Baths of Caracalla caps a perfectly Roman day. 08:53.266 --> 08:55.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome's a big city, too big to walk everywhere. 08:55.466 --> 08:58.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Take advantage of public transport. 08:58.233 --> 09:00.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I like a hotel in a convenient neighborhood, 09:00.333 --> 09:02.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% near a subway stop. 09:02.500 --> 09:03.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome's subway system, 09:03.733 --> 09:06.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% while not extensive, is easy to use. 09:06.633 --> 09:08.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% From our hotel, 09:08.200 --> 09:10.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it's a straight shot to the Colosseum. 09:10.466 --> 09:12.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Colosseo. That's our stop. 09:14.000 --> 09:17.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Colosseum was -- and still is -- colossal. 09:18.566 --> 09:20.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It's the great example of ancient Roman engineering. 09:20.766 --> 09:23.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It was begun in 72 AD, 09:23.666 --> 09:25.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% during the reign of Emperor Vespasian, 09:25.333 --> 09:26.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% when the empire was nearing its peak. 09:27.566 --> 09:29.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Using Roman-pioneered concrete, 09:29.466 --> 09:32.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% brick, and their trademark round arches, 09:32.633 --> 09:36.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Romans constructed much larger buildings than the Greeks. 09:36.366 --> 09:38.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% But it seems they still respected 09:38.300 --> 09:40.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the fine points of Greek culture. 09:40.666 --> 09:42.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% They decorated their no-nonsense mega-structure 09:42.666 --> 09:45.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with all three Greek orders of columns... 09:45.266 --> 09:48.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. 09:50.100 --> 09:51.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Stepping inside, you can almost hear 09:51.700 --> 09:52.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the roar of ancient Rome. 09:54.300 --> 09:57.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Take a moment to imagine the place in action. 09:57.400 --> 10:00.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Romans filled and emptied the Colosseum's 50,000 seats 10:00.233 --> 10:02.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as quickly and efficiently 10:02.400 --> 10:04.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as we do our super-stadiums today. 10:08.233 --> 10:10.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It's built with two theaters facing each other -- 10:11.033 --> 10:12.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that's what an amphitheater is -- 10:12.633 --> 10:15.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% so twice as many people could enjoy the entertainment. 10:16.200 --> 10:18.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Canvas awnings were hoisted over the stadium 10:18.533 --> 10:19.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to give protection from the sun. 10:21.266 --> 10:23.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These passageways underneath the arena 10:23.066 --> 10:25.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% were covered by a wooden floor. 10:25.166 --> 10:27.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Between acts, animals and gladiators 10:27.133 --> 10:28.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% were shuffled around out of sight. 10:31.733 --> 10:33.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Ancient Romans, whose taste for violence 10:33.733 --> 10:37.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% exceeded even modern America's, came to the Colosseum to unwind. 10:37.433 --> 10:40.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Gladiators, criminals, and wild animals 10:40.333 --> 10:42.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% fought to the death, 10:42.066 --> 10:44.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% providing the public with a festival of gore. 10:44.333 --> 10:46.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% To celebrate the Colosseum's grand opening, 10:46.433 --> 10:48.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Romans were treated to the slaughter of 5,000 animals. 10:51.433 --> 10:55.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Nearby, Trajan's column trumpets the glories of Emperor Trajan, 10:55.433 --> 10:57.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% who ruled Rome in its heyday. 10:57.433 --> 11:00.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This is a textbook example of continuous narration. 11:00.633 --> 11:05.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Like a 200-yard-long scroll, it winds all the way to the top. 11:09.266 --> 11:11.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The purpose? More P.R., 11:11.066 --> 11:14.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% telling the story of yet another military victory. 11:15.466 --> 11:17.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Trajan extended the boundaries of the empire 11:17.466 --> 11:19.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to its greatest size ever, 11:19.666 --> 11:22.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% from the Nile to the north of Britain. 11:22.266 --> 11:23.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Controlling its entire coastline, 11:23.766 --> 11:25.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Romans called the Mediterranean 11:25.333 --> 11:29.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% simply "Mare Nostrum"... "Our Sea." 11:30.700 --> 11:34.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Downtown Rome is a kind of architectural time warp. 11:34.200 --> 11:37.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% You'll see almost nothing built post-World War II. 11:37.200 --> 11:39.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% A striking exception is this contemporary building 11:39.400 --> 11:42.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% showcasing the Ara Pacis. 11:42.466 --> 11:45.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This "Altar of Peace" offers a stirring glimpse at the pride 11:45.500 --> 11:49.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and power of the Roman Empire at its peak. 11:52.666 --> 11:54.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Nine years before Christ, Emperor Augustus 11:54.666 --> 11:56.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% led a procession of priests up these steps 11:57.000 --> 11:59.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to the newly built "Altar of Peace." 11:59.666 --> 12:01.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% They sacrificed an animal on the top 12:01.466 --> 12:03.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and thanked the gods. 12:03.066 --> 12:05.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The last of the serious barbarian resistance 12:05.200 --> 12:07.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% had been quelled, and now there could be peace. 12:07.500 --> 12:09.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The empire was established, 12:09.433 --> 12:12.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and this marked the start of the Pax Romana. 12:15.433 --> 12:18.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Pax Romana, or "Roman Peace," 12:18.266 --> 12:19.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was a Golden Age of good living, 12:19.633 --> 12:22.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% relative stability, and military dominance 12:22.266 --> 12:23.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that lasted from the time of Christ 12:23.566 --> 12:25.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% for about two centuries. 12:27.466 --> 12:29.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The altar's exquisite reliefs 12:29.266 --> 12:32.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% celebrate Rome's success and prosperity. 12:33.066 --> 12:35.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This goddess of fertility is surrounded 12:35.266 --> 12:36.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% by symbols of abundance, 12:37.033 --> 12:39.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and this procession shows a populace 12:39.066 --> 12:41.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% thankful for its emperor. 12:42.266 --> 12:44.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The stability and relative prosperity that characterized 12:44.566 --> 12:47.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the two centuries of the Roman Peace 12:47.066 --> 12:48.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was due in part 12:48.300 --> 12:50.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to a steady succession of capable rulers. 12:57.000 --> 12:58.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% As visitors, it's our challenge to 12:59.000 --> 13:00.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% appreciate the grandeur of this incredible city 13:00.566 --> 13:02.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% built on the scale of giants. 13:03.400 --> 13:05.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For instance, when Rome went to the races, 13:05.433 --> 13:08.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it came here, the Circus Maximus. 13:09.500 --> 13:11.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Imagine a quarter of a million Romans 13:12.033 --> 13:14.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% cheering on careening chariots, and overlooking it all, 13:15.033 --> 13:18.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the Palatine Hill, filled with towering palaces. 13:19.233 --> 13:21.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And a visit to the National Museum 13:21.300 --> 13:24.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% at the Palazzo Massimo helps to humanize the empire. 13:24.733 --> 13:27.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% While ancient Rome's architecture was monumental, 13:27.066 --> 13:29.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% its citizens were just people 13:29.400 --> 13:32.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% like you and me without electricity. 13:35.000 --> 13:37.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These frescoes, a rare surviving example 13:37.666 --> 13:40.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of Roman painting, bring color to our image 13:40.266 --> 13:42.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of daily life back then. 13:46.766 --> 13:48.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Romans liked to think of themselves 13:48.333 --> 13:51.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as somehow living parallel with the gods. 13:51.333 --> 13:54.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These domestic scenes come with a twist of mythology. 13:59.133 --> 14:02.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And this painted garden, wallpapering a Roman villa, 14:02.100 --> 14:04.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% showed an appreciation for nature while creating 14:05.033 --> 14:07.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% an atmosphere of serenity. 14:10.566 --> 14:13.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Admiring the artifacts of Rome's elite, 14:13.200 --> 14:16.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% from exquisite jewelry to this delicate golden hair net, 14:16.266 --> 14:17.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% we can only marvel at 14:17.333 --> 14:20.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% "lifestyles of the rich and Roman." 14:24.433 --> 14:27.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Many aspects of Roman life are represented. 14:27.200 --> 14:29.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Roman artists excelled in realism. 14:29.233 --> 14:31.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This boxer is a picture of exhaustion, 14:31.366 --> 14:33.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with a roughed-up face and tired hands 14:33.600 --> 14:36.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% complete with brass knuckles. 14:37.633 --> 14:40.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The museum's collection tells the empire's story through art. 14:40.466 --> 14:43.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Caesar Augustus was the nephew of Julius Caesar 14:43.666 --> 14:46.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and the first great emperor of the Pax Romana. 14:46.266 --> 14:48.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Looking into the eyes of the man who called himself 14:48.666 --> 14:51.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% "the first among equals," you get the feeling that 14:51.566 --> 14:54.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the ship of state was in good hands. 14:56.300 --> 14:58.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% But by the time this statue was carved, 14:58.200 --> 15:00.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it's clear: the Pax Romana was finished, 15:00.066 --> 15:01.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and Rome was falling. 15:02.700 --> 15:05.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This boy is about to become head of state. 15:05.300 --> 15:07.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It was a chaotic and unstable time. 15:07.766 --> 15:10.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In fact, in the third century, 15:10.100 --> 15:14.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% 16 emperors were assassinated in a 50-year period. 15:14.533 --> 15:17.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Surrounded by nervous senators, 15:17.100 --> 15:20.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% this child emperor is no picture of confidence. 15:26.466 --> 15:27.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Throughout the ages, people mined 15:28.000 --> 15:30.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% once-glorious buildings as quarries. 15:30.433 --> 15:33.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Imagine... They were stacked with pre-cut stones, 15:33.066 --> 15:34.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% free for the taking. 15:34.066 --> 15:36.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Block by block, they carted away 15:36.066 --> 15:38.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% most of this temple and then incorporated 15:38.066 --> 15:39.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% what was still standing, like these columns, 15:39.466 --> 15:41.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% into a modern building. 15:41.666 --> 15:43.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Thankfully, no one cannibalized 15:43.700 --> 15:46.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the magnificent Pantheon, the best-preserved temple 15:46.533 --> 15:48.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% from ancient Rome. 15:48.466 --> 15:50.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The portico, with its stately pediment, 15:50.700 --> 15:54.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% has symbolized Roman greatness ever since antiquity. 15:54.300 --> 15:55.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Like the obelisks, its massive, 15:56.033 --> 15:58.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% one-piece granite columns were shipped from Egypt. 15:58.666 --> 16:00.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% They're huge. 16:00.200 --> 16:02.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It takes four tourists to hug one. 16:05.266 --> 16:07.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Step inside to enjoy the finest look anywhere 16:07.633 --> 16:09.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% at the splendor of ancient Rome. 16:09.633 --> 16:11.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Its dimensions are classic, 16:11.733 --> 16:15.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% based on a perfect circle as wide as it is tall: 16:15.266 --> 16:16.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% 140 feet. 16:17.400 --> 16:20.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The oculus is the only source of light. 16:21.366 --> 16:23.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Pantheon survived so well because it's been 16:23.600 --> 16:26.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in continuous use for over 2,000 years. 16:26.566 --> 16:29.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It went almost directly from being a pagan temple 16:29.600 --> 16:32.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to being a Christian church. 16:32.266 --> 16:33.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The beauty of the Pantheon 16:33.700 --> 16:35.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and the brilliance of its construction has 16:35.433 --> 16:37.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% inspired architects through the ages. 16:37.566 --> 16:40.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The dome is made of poured concrete, 16:40.133 --> 16:41.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% which gets thinner and lighter with height. 16:42.033 --> 16:43.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The highest part is made with pumice, 16:43.366 --> 16:45.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% an airy volcanic stone. 16:45.600 --> 16:48.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% "Pan-theon" means "all the gods." 16:48.066 --> 16:50.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It was a spiritual menagerie 16:50.466 --> 16:52.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% where the many gods of the empire were worshipped. 17:00.233 --> 17:02.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% There was a kind of religious freedom back then. 17:02.433 --> 17:04.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% If you were conquered, 17:04.066 --> 17:05.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% you were welcome to keep your own gods, 17:05.300 --> 17:07.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as long as you worshipped Caesar, too. 17:07.333 --> 17:09.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This was generally no problem. 17:09.266 --> 17:11.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% But the Christians, who had a single 17:11.400 --> 17:13.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and very jealous god, were the exception. 17:13.366 --> 17:15.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Because they refused to worship the emperor, 17:15.166 --> 17:17.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% early Christians were persecuted. 17:18.633 --> 17:20.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For a little early Christian history, 17:20.433 --> 17:23.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% we're heading outside the city for a look at the catacombs. 17:23.500 --> 17:26.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome's ancient wall stretches eleven miles. 17:26.500 --> 17:30.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It protected the city until Italy was united in 1870. 17:32.233 --> 17:34.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% From gates like this, grand roads fanned out 17:34.566 --> 17:36.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to connect the city with its empire. 17:37.766 --> 17:40.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Appian Way, Rome's gateway to the East, 17:40.566 --> 17:42.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is fun to explore on a rented bike. 17:42.733 --> 17:44.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It was the grandest and fastest road yet, 17:45.033 --> 17:46.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the wonder of its day. 17:46.633 --> 17:48.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Very straight, 17:48.066 --> 17:49.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as Roman engineers were fond of designing, 17:50.000 --> 17:54.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it stretched 400 miles to Naples and then on to Brindisi, 17:54.566 --> 17:57.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% from where Roman ships sailed to Greece and Egypt. 17:57.600 --> 18:00.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These are the original stones. 18:01.033 --> 18:02.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Tombs of ancient big-shots 18:02.266 --> 18:05.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% lined the Appian Way like billboards. 18:06.066 --> 18:08.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% While pagans didn't enjoy the promise of salvation, 18:08.633 --> 18:11.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% those who could afford it purchased a kind of immortality 18:11.566 --> 18:13.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% by building themselves big and glitzy memorials. 18:13.733 --> 18:16.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These line the main roads out of town. 18:17.100 --> 18:19.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Judging by their elegant togas, 18:19.233 --> 18:22.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% these brothers were from a fine family. 18:22.133 --> 18:25.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This is the mausoleum of Caecilia Metella, 18:25.300 --> 18:27.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% whose father-in-law was extremely wealthy. 18:27.766 --> 18:30.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% While it dates from the first century BC, 18:30.533 --> 18:33.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% we still remember her to this day, 18:33.066 --> 18:35.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% so apparently the investment paid off. 18:38.700 --> 18:40.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% But of course, early Christians didn't have 18:40.666 --> 18:42.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that kind of money, so they buried their dead 18:42.700 --> 18:46.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in mass underground "necropoli," or catacombs, 18:46.066 --> 18:47.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% dug beneath the property of 18:47.600 --> 18:50.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the few fellow Christians who did own land. 18:51.066 --> 18:52.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These catacombs are scattered all around the city 18:52.766 --> 18:54.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% just outside the walls, 18:54.633 --> 18:55.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and several are open to the public. 18:59.533 --> 19:01.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The tomb-lined tunnels of the catacombs stretch for miles 19:02.033 --> 19:03.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and are many layers deep. 19:05.333 --> 19:07.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Many of the first Christians buried here 19:07.400 --> 19:09.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% were later recognized as martyrs and saints. 19:10.200 --> 19:12.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Others then carved out niches nearby 19:12.566 --> 19:16.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to bury their loved ones close to these early Christian heroes. 19:18.166 --> 19:19.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% By the Middle Ages, 19:19.500 --> 19:21.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the catacombs were abandoned and forgotten. 19:21.466 --> 19:23.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Centuries later, they were rediscovered. 19:23.700 --> 19:26.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Romantic Age tourists on the "Grand Tour" 19:26.633 --> 19:29.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% visited by candlelight, and legends grew 19:29.500 --> 19:31.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% about Christians hiding out to escape persecution. 19:31.700 --> 19:34.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% But the catacombs were not hideouts. 19:34.133 --> 19:37.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% They were simply budget underground cemeteries. 19:39.533 --> 19:42.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Further along the Appian Way is Rome's Aqueduct Park, 19:42.566 --> 19:45.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% offering a chance to see how the ancient city got its water. 19:45.466 --> 19:48.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% With its million people, Rome needed lots of water. 19:49.466 --> 19:52.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These ingenious aqueducts carried a steady stream 19:52.066 --> 19:53.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% from distant mountains into the city, 19:53.666 --> 19:57.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and they still seem to gallop, as they did 2,000 years ago, 19:57.666 --> 19:59.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% into Rome. 20:01.100 --> 20:03.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These aqueducts were the Achille's heel of Rome. 20:03.066 --> 20:04.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% If you wanted to bring down the city, 20:04.700 --> 20:07.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% all you had to do was take down one of the arches. 20:07.100 --> 20:09.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In fact, in the sixth century, the barbarians did just that. 20:09.500 --> 20:12.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Without water, Rome basically shriveled up. 20:14.433 --> 20:16.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Today, the park's a favorite with locals for 20:16.666 --> 20:19.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% walking the dog or burning off some of that pasta. 20:20.233 --> 20:34.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ♪ 20:34.266 --> 20:36.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% With its imperial might and those stories about 20:37.033 --> 20:39.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% persecutions and hungry lions in the Colosseum, 20:39.233 --> 20:41.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it's easy to forget that the last century 20:41.266 --> 20:43.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of the Roman Empire was Christian. 20:44.033 --> 20:47.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In 312, the general Constantine, following a vision that 20:47.233 --> 20:49.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% he would triumph under the sign of the cross, 20:49.133 --> 20:51.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% beat his rival, Maxentius. 20:52.300 --> 20:54.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Taking power, Emperor Constantine 20:54.433 --> 20:57.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% then legalized Christianity. 20:57.633 --> 20:59.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This obscure, outlawed Jewish sect 21:00.000 --> 21:02.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ultimately became the religion of the empire. 21:05.366 --> 21:07.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In the year 300, you could be killed for being a Christian. 21:07.433 --> 21:09.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In the year 400, 21:09.266 --> 21:11.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% you could be killed for not being a Christian. 21:11.466 --> 21:14.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Church attendance boomed and Emperor Constantine built 21:14.400 --> 21:16.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the first great Christian church right here... 21:16.733 --> 21:19.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% San Giovanni in Laterano... St. John's. 21:21.300 --> 21:23.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It opened as a kind of "first Vatican." 21:23.566 --> 21:26.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% St. John's, which has been rebuilt over the ages, 21:26.466 --> 21:29.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was the original home of the bishop of Rome, or "Pope." 21:30.766 --> 21:32.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% High atop the canopy over the altar, 21:32.466 --> 21:34.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a box supposedly contains 21:34.466 --> 21:37.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% bits of the skulls of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. 21:37.466 --> 21:39.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The church is filled with symbols of 21:39.433 --> 21:42.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Christianity's triumph over pagan Rome. 21:42.600 --> 21:45.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For instance, tradition says these gilded bronze columns 21:45.633 --> 21:48.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% once stood in pagan Rome's holiest temple. 21:51.233 --> 21:53.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And what better doors for this first grand church 21:53.666 --> 21:57.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% than those which once hung in ancient Rome's Senate House? 22:01.266 --> 22:03.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The adjacent Holy Stairs are a major stop 22:03.500 --> 22:05.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% on Rome's pilgrimage trail. 22:06.400 --> 22:08.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Many credit Emperor Constantine's mother, 22:08.466 --> 22:11.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Saint Helena, for her son's conversion. 22:11.233 --> 22:13.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% She brought home wagon-loads of relics, 22:13.366 --> 22:15.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% including these stairs, believed to be 22:15.366 --> 22:17.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% from the palace of Pontius Pilate. 22:18.433 --> 22:21.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For 1,700 years, pilgrims, believing Jesus 22:21.466 --> 22:24.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% climbed these stairs on the day he was condemned, 22:24.600 --> 22:27.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% have scaled the Scala Santa on their knees. 22:34.200 --> 22:36.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The importance of Rome is due in part to its 22:36.600 --> 22:40.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% location. The city was born about 2,500 years here 22:40.200 --> 22:42.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% along the Tiber River. 22:42.200 --> 22:45.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This was as far upstream as boats could sail 22:45.500 --> 22:50.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and the first place the river could be crossed by bridge. 22:50.766 --> 22:53.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% As a center of river trade, Rome connected 22:53.166 --> 22:55.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the interior of the Italian peninsula 22:55.200 --> 22:56.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with the Mediterranean. 22:56.033 --> 22:59.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This riverbank would have been bustling in ancient times. 22:59.433 --> 23:01.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Imagine -- busy docks, ramshackle boats, 23:01.666 --> 23:04.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% water mills, and platforms for fishing. 23:04.433 --> 23:05.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Until modern times, 23:05.600 --> 23:08.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome's river was part of its economy. 23:08.433 --> 23:11.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Then, in the 1870s, in order to protect 23:11.033 --> 23:14.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the city from flooding, the Romans walled off the Tiber. 23:14.566 --> 23:17.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% They built these tall, anonymous embankments that 23:17.200 --> 23:20.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% continue to isolate the river from the city to this day. 23:20.700 --> 23:22.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% While Rome was born on the Tiber, 23:22.700 --> 23:25.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% today the town seems to ignore its river, 23:25.166 --> 23:29.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% but the city's graceful bridges connect thriving neighborhoods. 23:29.200 --> 23:31.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Just over the Tiber from here 23:31.466 --> 23:34.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is one of Rome's most colorful districts. 23:34.733 --> 23:38.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Trastevere is the place to immerse yourself 23:38.400 --> 23:39.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in the crustier side of Rome. 23:39.633 --> 23:44.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The name "Trastevere" actually means "across the Tiber River." 23:44.566 --> 23:48.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Wandering here offers a chance to hone your senses 23:48.500 --> 23:50.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to see Rome more intimately. 23:50.200 --> 23:52.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% You'll discover a world of artisans 23:52.433 --> 23:54.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% who've found their niche and love it. 23:54.600 --> 23:58.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The people here, "Trasteverini," are proud. 23:58.200 --> 24:01.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Old-timers once bragged of never setting foot 24:01.200 --> 24:03.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% on the opposite side of the river. 24:03.033 --> 24:07.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% As we explore and observe, the big city seems worlds away. 24:07.600 --> 24:11.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For maximum Trastevere fun and insight, 24:11.200 --> 24:14.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I'm joined by my friend and Roman tour guide, 24:14.200 --> 24:17.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Francesca Caruso. 24:17.700 --> 24:19.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Especially here in Trastevere, 24:19.166 --> 24:21.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% you get this sense of the many layers of Rome. 24:21.166 --> 24:24.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Certainly, that is really the key to understanding Rome. 24:24.100 --> 24:26.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This city has almost 3,000 years of history. 24:26.200 --> 24:28.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It was never abandoned, so people have just 24:28.200 --> 24:31.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% built on top and around of what was already there. 24:31.200 --> 24:33.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Like a layer cake, isn't it? 24:33.133 --> 24:35.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Boy, there's a beautiful roof garden. 24:35.633 --> 24:37.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Yeah. Most of us in Rome 24:37.566 --> 24:39.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% live in apartments, so no gardens, 24:39.666 --> 24:41.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% no back yards, so we all dream 24:41.666 --> 24:43.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of the attico con terrazzo. 24:43.200 --> 24:46.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Attico con terrazzo, an attic with a terrace. 24:46.566 --> 24:48.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Yes, so the skyline of Rome is full of 24:48.766 --> 24:51.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% these little jungles on the rooftops. 24:51.200 --> 24:52.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Everything is so intimate. 24:52.033 --> 24:54.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It's like we're walking through somebody's laundry room. 24:54.166 --> 24:56.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Well, we've always lived very close together here. 24:56.200 --> 24:58.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Sharing space is really not a problem. 24:58.433 --> 25:02.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We don't even have the word for "privacy" in Italian. 25:02.133 --> 25:03.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We use the English word instead. 25:03.766 --> 25:07.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We simply roll the "r," so we say privacy. 25:07.200 --> 25:08.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Privacy. 25:08.033 --> 25:10.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I know one more Italian word now. 25:10.166 --> 25:11.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% [ Laughs ] 25:11.166 --> 25:14.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% [ Conversing in Italian ] 25:14.200 --> 25:15.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% So why are so many of the oldest 25:15.633 --> 25:17.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% churches in Rome on this side of the river? 25:17.700 --> 25:21.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Because Trastevere was the neighborhood of foreigners, 25:21.066 --> 25:24.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% often Christian, who brought their faith with them. 25:24.200 --> 25:26.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For the whole period of the persecutions, 25:26.633 --> 25:27.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% they could not build churches, 25:27.533 --> 25:30.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% so mass would be celebrated in the homes of wealthy converts 25:30.733 --> 25:32.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% who offered their homes for mass. 25:32.200 --> 25:35.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% So then this is one of those kind of churches. 25:35.133 --> 25:37.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Yes, it was the house of Cecilia, 25:37.200 --> 25:38.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and in later times 25:38.100 --> 25:40.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% they built a church dedicated to her. 25:40.100 --> 25:41.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And today, the name of the church? 25:41.700 --> 25:42.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Santa Cecilia. 25:42.466 --> 25:45.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Steves: Now, what happened to Saint Cecilia? 25:45.200 --> 25:48.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Saint Cecilia and her husband were killed 25:48.200 --> 25:49.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% because of their faith. 25:49.200 --> 25:52.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Romans tried to stane her to death for three days in 25:52.466 --> 25:56.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% her own home, and after that, they beheaded her. 25:56.200 --> 25:58.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This is a beautiful statue. It's just peaceful. 25:58.766 --> 26:00.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Yes, it's very quiet. There's something 26:00.366 --> 26:02.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% very tender about it and also very sad, 26:02.566 --> 26:04.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% about a young woman who was killed so brutally 26:04.766 --> 26:06.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% for her faith. 26:07.600 --> 26:10.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Fronting another early Christian church -- 26:10.200 --> 26:13.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Santa Maria in Trastevere -- is an inviting piazza. 26:14.166 --> 26:17.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The concept of a piazza serving as a community center 26:17.366 --> 26:19.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% goes back to ancient times. 26:19.166 --> 26:22.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere still functions as 26:22.766 --> 26:24.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the beating heart of this neighborhood. 26:25.000 --> 26:26.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Great part of exploring a neighborhood 26:26.400 --> 26:28.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is just sitting on the main square. 26:28.066 --> 26:29.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I think it's really in our DNA. 26:29.766 --> 26:32.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We've been living in our piazzas as common living rooms 26:32.600 --> 26:35.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% since ancient Roman times, so it's always been this way, 26:35.400 --> 26:38.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and let's hope it will always be this way in the future, too. 26:38.400 --> 26:41.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For dinner we're venturing into a different neighborhood. 26:41.433 --> 26:43.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% One of my favorite restaurants 26:43.400 --> 26:44.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is a short cab ride away, 26:44.600 --> 26:46.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% back on the other side of the river. 26:46.600 --> 26:49.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Ristorante il Gabriello provides a peaceful 26:49.533 --> 26:54.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and local-feeling respite from the intensity of the big city. 26:54.333 --> 26:56.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Claudio serves with charisma, 26:56.500 --> 27:00.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% while his brother, Gabriello, cooks Roman cuisine 27:00.166 --> 27:01.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with a creative twist, 27:01.033 --> 27:04.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% using fresh, organic products from the market 27:04.333 --> 27:06.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and from his wife's farm. 27:06.500 --> 27:09.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Sometimes Italians like to ignore the menu, 27:09.300 --> 27:10.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% just trust the restaurateur, 27:10.566 --> 27:12.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and go with the meal he suggests. 27:12.266 --> 27:16.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Whenever possible, so do I, and that's the plan tonight. 27:16.166 --> 27:19.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% First up, fresh scampi, oysters, and shrimp, 27:19.600 --> 27:24.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and they're served the way Romans like it -- crudo, or raw. 27:24.433 --> 27:26.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Oh, yes, that's nice. 27:26.133 --> 27:30.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Next, Claudio switches us from a white to a red wine 27:30.133 --> 27:34.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in anticipation of the pasta dishes. 27:34.333 --> 27:36.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Claudio: Ravioli, "si," 27:36.300 --> 27:40.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% stuffed with ricotta, ricotta cheese, and spinach. 27:40.300 --> 27:40.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Okay. 27:40.600 --> 27:45.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% First, a ravioli with a delicate cream sauce and a pinch of sage. 27:45.133 --> 27:49.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% That's a nice lead-in to our second pasta -- 27:49.366 --> 27:51.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% "spaghetti alla carbonara." 27:51.166 --> 27:54.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Carbonara is eggs, pancetta, some pecorino, 27:54.600 --> 27:57.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and a little bit of parmigiano and pepper. 27:57.166 --> 28:00.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Very simple and very Roman. 28:00.166 --> 28:04.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Claudio recommends a wine change to a super Tuscan. 28:04.000 --> 28:05.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Super? Super. 28:05.566 --> 28:06.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% [ Laughs ] 28:06.166 --> 28:09.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This will be super with a dish of rare beef 28:09.233 --> 28:10.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% topped with thin strips of lard. 28:10.600 --> 28:15.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% As an extra treat, he's prepared a special local white fish. 28:15.600 --> 28:18.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And finally, the "dolce." 28:19.000 --> 28:23.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Sorry, but these desserts taste even better than they look. 28:23.466 --> 28:25.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% What a meal! 28:28.266 --> 28:30.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% While much of Rome is splendid and grandiose, 28:30.700 --> 28:32.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it can be intimate as well. 28:32.500 --> 28:34.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Regardless of your sightseeing agenda, 28:34.500 --> 28:37.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% getting out early lets you enjoy some of 28:37.100 --> 28:40.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the world's great public spaces while they're just waking up. 28:40.633 --> 28:44.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Early birds can even enjoy the generally packed Pantheon 28:44.100 --> 28:46.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% nearly all to themselves. 28:46.300 --> 28:50.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% A morning spent wandering is filled with surprises. 28:51.500 --> 28:54.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Playful fountains decorate squares. 28:55.500 --> 28:56.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Poke around. 28:56.700 --> 28:58.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Explore. 29:00.300 --> 29:02.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In the back streets, it's clear -- 29:02.300 --> 29:05.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% this city is a collection of real neighborhoods 29:05.033 --> 29:09.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% artfully living well in a rustic and ancient shell. 29:09.500 --> 29:12.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% As the rhythm of daily life hits its stride, 29:12.100 --> 29:15.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the famous Spanish Steps, today adorned with azaleas, 29:15.700 --> 29:16.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% fill with people. 29:16.366 --> 29:19.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For over 200 years, romantics have gathered here 29:19.700 --> 29:24.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to enjoy a little "dolce vita" with their sightseeing, 29:24.100 --> 29:27.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and it remains a popular place to savor the joy 29:27.466 --> 29:30.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of simply being in Rome. 29:32.533 --> 29:34.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Another characteristic and interesting 29:34.566 --> 29:36.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% old neighborhood, and a delight to explore, 29:36.566 --> 29:39.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is the ghetto, or Jewish Quarter. 29:39.566 --> 29:42.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In ancient times, this bridge was called Jews' Bridge, 29:42.700 --> 29:44.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% because Jews and other foreigners 29:44.566 --> 29:47.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% who weren't allowed to live in central Rome 29:47.100 --> 29:49.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% would commute from Trastevere over there 29:49.366 --> 29:51.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% across this bridge to get into town. 29:51.366 --> 29:54.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% To understand the Jewish chapter of Rome's story, 29:54.600 --> 29:55.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% we're joining my friend 29:55.566 --> 29:58.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and fellow tour guide Michaela Pavoncello. 29:58.166 --> 30:00.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Michaela's family goes all the way back to 30:00.733 --> 30:04.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the Jewish community living here before Christ, 30:04.166 --> 30:05.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and the family line continues. 30:05.700 --> 30:08.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Her baby's due in just a few months. 30:08.066 --> 30:11.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% So what's unique about the Roman Jewish community? 30:11.700 --> 30:14.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Well, first of all, we're not Ashkenazi 30:14.500 --> 30:15.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and we're not Sephardi. 30:15.166 --> 30:18.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% You know, the Ashkenazi went to Germany and Poland 30:18.566 --> 30:20.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and the Sephardi went to Spain. 30:20.166 --> 30:22.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Roman Jews came straight from Jerusalem 30:22.766 --> 30:25.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% before the destruction of the temple, 30:25.066 --> 30:26.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% so we were here since before the Diaspora. 30:26.533 --> 30:29.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Ah. So when you think Ashkenazi or Sephardic, 30:29.533 --> 30:31.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that's after the Diaspora. 30:31.166 --> 30:31.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% So you can say this is 30:31.700 --> 30:33.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the oldest Jewish community in Europe. 30:33.566 --> 30:35.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Yes, one of the oldest outside of Israel. 30:35.366 --> 30:37.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% So if the Roman Jews came before the Diaspora, 30:37.633 --> 30:39.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% why did they come here in the first place? 30:39.633 --> 30:42.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Because they were diplomats and businessmen, 30:42.133 --> 30:44.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and during the centuries, we had to live 30:44.433 --> 30:47.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with emperors and popes, and we were tolerated 30:47.166 --> 30:49.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% because we were good for the business 30:49.066 --> 30:52.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and we were not pushing our religions to the others 30:52.166 --> 30:54.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and we were keeping it for ourselves. 30:54.166 --> 30:55.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Steves: So then what happened? 30:55.166 --> 30:57.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Then, we're in 1500, the Reformation came 30:57.466 --> 31:00.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and the church had to fight any alternative religion, 31:00.766 --> 31:03.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and so the ghetto was established in Rome to... 31:03.700 --> 31:06.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Okay, so the church is fighting the Protestants 31:06.766 --> 31:09.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and at the same time fighting the Jews. 31:09.166 --> 31:12.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Yeah, and to avoid any contamination between 31:12.566 --> 31:15.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Jews and Christians, Jews were segregated 31:15.733 --> 31:18.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in a walled area in Rome in 1555. 31:18.166 --> 31:20.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% So what was the life like in the ghetto? 31:20.400 --> 31:23.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Well, you have to imagine 9,000 people squeezed in 31:23.166 --> 31:26.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a four-blocks area, flooded every single winter 31:26.033 --> 31:28.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% because the Tiber would flood every winter. 31:28.433 --> 31:31.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% So it was squalid, muddy, disgusting -- 31:31.433 --> 31:34.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it was the worst real estate of Rome. 31:34.133 --> 31:36.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Steves: The synagogue was the community center. 31:36.400 --> 31:39.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It looks like a church because back when it was built 31:39.433 --> 31:41.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% there were no Jewish architects handy, 31:41.166 --> 31:44.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and that's what Christian builders knew how to make. 31:44.166 --> 31:49.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It's Art Nouveau with a dash of Tiffany. 31:51.666 --> 31:54.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The dome was painted with the colors of the rainbow, 31:54.700 --> 31:58.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% symbolic of God's promise to Noah that 31:58.166 --> 32:00.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% there would be no more floods. 32:00.166 --> 32:04.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The stars symbolized that the Jewish people would be 32:04.166 --> 32:07.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as many as the stars in the sky. 32:11.666 --> 32:14.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Back in previous centuries, when the ghetto 32:14.466 --> 32:18.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was a walled-in town, Christian Romans built churches 32:18.166 --> 32:20.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% at each gate, and each of these churches 32:20.166 --> 32:23.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% came complete with an attempt in Hebrew script 32:23.633 --> 32:27.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to convert the Jews. 32:27.466 --> 32:30.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% While most of the squalid ghetto was demolished 32:30.433 --> 32:32.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with Italian unification in 1870, 32:32.166 --> 32:34.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the buildings facing the main drag survive. 32:34.666 --> 32:38.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Shops sell fine, locally produced Judaica, 32:38.100 --> 32:41.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and kosher restaurants proudly serve traditional dishes, 32:41.566 --> 32:44.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% like those with artichokes. 32:44.166 --> 32:47.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% While the Jewish community now lives all over town, 32:47.166 --> 32:49.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% many Roman Jews still enjoy gathering here 32:49.400 --> 32:54.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in the neighborhood where they have such deep roots. 32:54.466 --> 32:56.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Pavoncello: So I'll take you to the Jewish bakery. 32:56.566 --> 32:59.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The same family has been running the same business 32:59.166 --> 33:00.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% for 200 years. 33:00.766 --> 33:03.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% They only offer five or six recipes, 33:03.666 --> 33:06.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% so don't ask for weird things. 33:06.066 --> 33:08.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% They only have cheesecake with chocolate, 33:08.166 --> 33:12.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% cinnamon biscotti with almonds, 33:12.066 --> 33:13.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% macaroons, 33:13.633 --> 33:14.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and the pizza. 33:14.166 --> 33:16.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% That's called a Jewish pizza. 33:16.166 --> 33:17.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% What's in a Jewish pizza? 33:17.166 --> 33:19.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It's like a -- almost like a fruit cake, 33:19.566 --> 33:21.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with pine nuts, almond, candies. 33:21.566 --> 33:23.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Tell me about the challah bread. 33:23.766 --> 33:27.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Ah, the challah bread, it's what we serve 33:27.166 --> 33:28.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% when a baby boy's born 33:28.100 --> 33:33.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% or when a couple gets married or when you have a bar mitzvah. 33:33.766 --> 33:36.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% So this is to celebrate a new baby. 33:36.033 --> 33:38.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Yeah, it's to celebrate new babies, or -- 33:38.166 --> 33:39.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% well, that's very appropriate today. 33:39.733 --> 33:41.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Yeah. [ Laughs ] 33:41.500 --> 33:44.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Very nice. 33:44.500 --> 33:47.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome is a city of magnificent art. 33:47.366 --> 33:48.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It's everywhere you look, 33:48.400 --> 33:51.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and most of it was paid for by the church. 33:51.166 --> 33:53.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Public squares like Piazza Navona, 33:53.066 --> 33:55.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with Bernini's much-loved Four Rivers fountain, 33:55.700 --> 33:59.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% are decorated with church-sponsored art. 33:59.400 --> 34:01.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Until modern times, it was the church that had 34:01.700 --> 34:04.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the power, the money, and the need for great art, 34:04.500 --> 34:06.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and going to church offered the masses, 34:06.700 --> 34:09.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% whose lives were so dreary otherwise, 34:09.133 --> 34:10.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a promising glimpse of the glory 34:10.433 --> 34:12.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that awaited them in the next life. 34:12.733 --> 34:16.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The importance of the church in Rome is obvious. 34:16.366 --> 34:19.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Around every corner, there seems to be another little 34:19.166 --> 34:21.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% nondescript church, hiding sumptuous art treasures. 34:21.766 --> 34:24.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The wonderful thing about seeing art in churches 34:24.266 --> 34:28.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is that it's "in situ," not hanging on museum walls, 34:28.366 --> 34:31.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% but exactly where the art was designed to be enjoyed. 34:31.766 --> 34:34.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These churches span many different eras: 34:34.166 --> 34:36.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Byantine, medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, 34:36.766 --> 34:38.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and beyond. 34:41.400 --> 34:43.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Thoughtfully stringing together a series of 34:43.766 --> 34:45.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% lesser-known churches 34:45.000 --> 34:47.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% can be an art lover's delight. 34:47.766 --> 34:50.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% When visiting historic churches, like 34:50.400 --> 34:52.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Santa Maria sopra Minerva, 34:52.400 --> 34:54.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% our challenge is to appreciate the art 34:54.400 --> 34:57.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with the mindset of a medieval churchgoer. 34:58.600 --> 35:01.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Here we find a glorious Gothic interior 35:01.400 --> 35:03.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% laden with great art. 35:03.600 --> 35:06.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The altar sits upon the tomb of Saint Catherine 35:06.200 --> 35:11.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with the ornate tombs of two Medici popes looking down. 35:13.033 --> 35:15.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For generations, pilgrims have marveled at 35:15.500 --> 35:20.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% this Michelangelo statue of Christ carrying the cross. 35:21.633 --> 35:23.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And, in the side chapel, 35:23.033 --> 35:26.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is a lovely series of frescos by Filippo Lippi 35:26.033 --> 35:28.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% showing the good works of Saint Thomas Aquinas 35:28.433 --> 35:32.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% accompanied by a celestial serenade. 35:34.233 --> 35:36.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And, popping into one of Rome's many 35:36.433 --> 35:38.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Baroque churches, 35:38.033 --> 35:40.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% you hardly know where to look. 35:42.033 --> 35:46.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Every inch is slathered with ornamentation -- 35:46.366 --> 35:52.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% oh-wow spiral columns framing scenes that almost come to life; 35:52.633 --> 35:55.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% cupids doing flip flops; 35:55.233 --> 35:58.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and ceilings opening up into the heavens. 36:01.633 --> 36:03.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% After the intellectual nature of the Renaissance, 36:03.633 --> 36:05.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Baroque, which followed, was emotional. 36:05.633 --> 36:07.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% By the year 1500, 36:07.266 --> 36:09.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Renaissance artists had mastered realism. 36:09.666 --> 36:13.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Now, in 1600, Baroque went beyond realism 36:13.266 --> 36:15.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to wow its viewers with exuberance. 36:15.633 --> 36:17.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Baroque art was propaganda. 36:17.666 --> 36:19.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It served the needs of 36:19.233 --> 36:21.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the divine monarchs and of the Church. 36:21.066 --> 36:25.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% By pulling emotional strings, it convinced people to obey. 36:27.033 --> 36:29.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome is the birthplace of the Baroque style, 36:29.066 --> 36:32.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who lived and worked here 36:32.066 --> 36:34.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in the 17th century, is considered its father. 36:35.266 --> 36:39.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Seemingly insignificant churches like Santa Maria della Vittoria 36:39.066 --> 36:42.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% come with lavish interiors, and, if you know where to look, 36:42.466 --> 36:45.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% important Baroque treasures hide out. 36:45.666 --> 36:48.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Bernini designed this side chapel like a theater, 36:48.466 --> 36:50.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with members of the family who paid for the art 36:50.666 --> 36:53.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% looking on from their box seats. 36:53.066 --> 36:56.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The master Bernini invigorates reality with emotion. 36:56.666 --> 37:01.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Center stage is "The Ecstasy of Saint Theresa." 37:01.666 --> 37:04.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Bernini captures the feeling Theresa described when 37:04.666 --> 37:06.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the angel pierced her heart with a heavenly arrow. 37:06.666 --> 37:10.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% She said, "The pain was so sharp that I cried aloud, 37:10.066 --> 37:14.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% but at the same time, I experienced such delight 37:14.066 --> 37:17.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that I wished it would last forever." 37:21.700 --> 37:23.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rick: "Scusi signora, dove Campo de' Fiori?" 37:23.500 --> 37:26.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Woman: "È là." Rick: "Grazie." 37:26.700 --> 37:28.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Woman: "Prego." 37:28.100 --> 37:30.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For a break from all that art, head to 37:30.133 --> 37:32.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Campo de' Fiori. 37:32.700 --> 37:34.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Literally, the "field of flowers," 37:34.300 --> 37:37.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% this has long been a fragrant and vibrant market. 37:37.766 --> 37:39.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The market thrives in the morning. 37:39.533 --> 37:42.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% What's seasonal during your visit will be favored 37:42.500 --> 37:45.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% by local chefs and featured on their daily menus. 37:45.566 --> 37:48.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We're here in May, and it's "puntarelle," 37:48.300 --> 37:52.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% asparagus, and artichokes. 37:52.700 --> 37:56.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Whether you come for the produce or just for a stroll, 37:56.300 --> 38:01.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Campo de' Fiori is one of Rome's beloved public spaces. 38:02.133 --> 38:04.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome is notorious for noisy traffic, 38:04.733 --> 38:07.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and until recently, that plagued many of 38:07.533 --> 38:09.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome's fine public spaces. 38:08.300 --> 38:12.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% But the notorious Roman traffic is being tamed. 38:12.166 --> 38:15.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Like cities all over Europe, more and more of its old center 38:15.166 --> 38:17.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% has become traffic-free and pedestrian-friendly. 38:17.700 --> 38:20.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Still, watch out for the scooters. 38:24.766 --> 38:27.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% After years of searching out my favorite European restaurants, 38:27.300 --> 38:29.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I've found a few universal indicators 38:29.700 --> 38:30.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% for a great eating value, 38:31.333 --> 38:33.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and a place like this has them all. 38:35.366 --> 38:37.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The best eateries are little family-run places 38:37.566 --> 38:39.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that cater to locals. 38:39.433 --> 38:41.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This one's open weekday lunches only. 38:41.600 --> 38:45.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% At a glance, you know this place is really a find -- 38:45.433 --> 38:46.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% limited selection, 38:46.733 --> 38:49.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% hand-written menu in one language, 38:49.733 --> 38:53.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% packed with the neighborhood gang. 38:54.566 --> 38:57.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Each day there's a special. 38:57.400 --> 38:59.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Today it's spaghetti carbonara. 38:59.533 --> 39:02.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Simple, tasty "cucina casalinga" -- 39:02.233 --> 39:05.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that's home-cooking Roman style. 39:09.733 --> 39:12.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For a breezy escape from the big-city noise 39:12.700 --> 39:15.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and intensity, head for the Borghese Gardens, 39:15.200 --> 39:17.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome's "Central Park." 39:17.466 --> 39:21.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Romans are proud of their generous green spaces. 39:21.166 --> 39:23.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This sprawling park has long offered 39:23.333 --> 39:25.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% people here a place to relax, unwind, 39:25.200 --> 39:28.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and let the kids run wild. 39:29.600 --> 39:32.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The park's centerpiece is the Borghese Gallery. 39:32.400 --> 39:34.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Once a cardinal's lavish mansion, 39:34.400 --> 39:37.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% today it welcomes the public. 39:37.333 --> 39:39.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% As is the case with many of Europe's top sights, 39:39.733 --> 39:41.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% admission requires a reservation. 39:41.433 --> 39:43.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Getting one's easy -- just a quick phone call 39:43.700 --> 39:46.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% or visit the web site and you get an entry time. 39:46.400 --> 39:49.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Good guidebooks have all the details. 39:53.566 --> 39:56.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The wealthy Borghese family filled their 39:56.700 --> 39:58.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% 17th-century villa with art. 39:58.300 --> 40:00.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This was the age when the rich and powerful 40:00.733 --> 40:03.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% not only collected beautiful art but actually employed 40:03.033 --> 40:07.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% leading artists to spiff up their homes. 40:07.166 --> 40:09.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Cardinal Borghese was the pope's nephew 40:09.733 --> 40:12.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and one of the wealthiest people in Rome. 40:12.733 --> 40:15.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% With unlimited money, his palace dazzled 40:15.700 --> 40:17.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with both fine art of the past, 40:17.633 --> 40:22.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% such as Raphael's exquisite "Deposition," 40:22.700 --> 40:26.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and with the best art of the day. 40:28.433 --> 40:30.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Each room has a masterpiece at its center, 40:30.666 --> 40:33.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% like this intriguing look at Napoleon's sister, 40:33.666 --> 40:36.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Pauline, by Canova. 40:36.433 --> 40:41.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The polished marble is lifelike, even sensuous. 40:41.600 --> 40:44.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Bernini's "David" is textbook Baroque. 40:44.600 --> 40:45.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Bursting with life, 40:45.566 --> 40:47.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% David's body, wound like a spring 40:47.666 --> 40:51.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and lips pursed as he prepares to slay the giant, 40:51.233 --> 40:53.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% shows the determination of the age. 40:53.533 --> 40:57.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Bernini was just 25 when he sculpted this, 40:57.533 --> 41:00.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and the face of David is his. 41:03.500 --> 41:08.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Caravaggio tackled the same topic on canvas. 41:08.366 --> 41:11.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Grabbing an opportunity to shock his viewers, 41:11.133 --> 41:14.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the artist Caravaggio also sneaks in a self-portrait, 41:14.566 --> 41:17.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% this time as the head of Goliath. 41:20.733 --> 41:22.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In keeping with the Baroque age, 41:22.366 --> 41:25.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Bernini's "Rape of Persephone" packs an emotional punch. 41:25.566 --> 41:29.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Persephone's entire body seems to scream for help 41:29.133 --> 41:33.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as Pluto drags his catch into the underworld. 41:36.500 --> 41:41.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% His three-headed dog howls triumphantly. 41:43.133 --> 41:45.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Bernini's "Apollo Chasing Daphne" 41:45.333 --> 41:47.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is a highlight. 41:47.733 --> 41:50.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Apollo, happily wounded by Cupid's arrow, 41:50.733 --> 41:55.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% chases Daphne, who's saved by turning into a tree. 41:55.266 --> 41:56.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In typical Baroque style, 41:56.666 --> 41:58.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Bernini captures the instant when, 41:58.733 --> 42:01.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% just as Apollo's about to catch Daphne, 42:01.733 --> 42:04.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% her fingers turn to leaves... 42:07.300 --> 42:09.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Her toes sprout roots, 42:09.300 --> 42:13.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and Apollo's in for one rude surprise. 42:13.733 --> 42:16.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The statue, as much air as stone, 42:16.433 --> 42:19.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% makes a supernatural event seem real. 42:19.166 --> 42:22.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This classical scene, while plenty fleshy, 42:22.166 --> 42:24.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% comes with a church-pleasing moral -- 42:24.433 --> 42:30.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% chasing earthly pleasures leads only to frustration. 42:31.733 --> 42:36.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The place to contemplate that thought is at the Vatican. 42:36.500 --> 42:40.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Here's a case where crossing a street is crossing a border. 42:40.533 --> 42:41.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I just left Italy. 42:41.233 --> 42:44.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Vatican City may be the world's smallest independent country, 42:44.333 --> 42:47.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with just 1,000 inhabitants, but it's the spiritual capital 42:47.700 --> 42:50.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of hundreds of millions of Roman Catholics. 42:50.700 --> 42:51.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Vatican is built upon 42:51.366 --> 42:53.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the memory and grave of the first pope, 42:53.766 --> 42:55.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% St. Peter, 42:55.366 --> 42:58.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% its centerpiece: St. Peter's Basilica. 42:58.733 --> 43:01.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Even though the Vatican City occupies 43:01.233 --> 43:03.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% less than a square mile, this country has 43:03.433 --> 43:06.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% its own radio station, newspaper, post office, 43:06.500 --> 43:08.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and a cute little train station. 43:08.700 --> 43:11.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Along with the grandest church on Earth, 43:11.166 --> 43:13.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it has a massive museum. 43:13.700 --> 43:16.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Vatican is ruled both politically 43:16.300 --> 43:17.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and religiously by the pope. 43:17.466 --> 43:21.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Vatican City is embedded in the city of Rome. 43:21.233 --> 43:23.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It's surrounded by a mighty medieval wall 43:23.466 --> 43:27.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% that evokes a less-than-peaceful history. 43:27.200 --> 43:29.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% After the fall of Rome in the fifth century, 43:29.233 --> 43:31.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the city of Rome eventually came under control of the pope. 43:31.600 --> 43:32.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In fact, for centuries, 43:32.600 --> 43:35.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the pope was called the "King Pope." 43:35.000 --> 43:36.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Little by little, 43:36.000 --> 43:38.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the "King Pope" established his own empire. 43:38.000 --> 43:41.000 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% At its peak in the 1600s, these "Papal States," 43:41.000 --> 43:41.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as they were called, 43:41.600 --> 43:43.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% encompassed much of the Italian peninsula. 43:43.433 --> 43:47.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% When the modern nation of Italy unified in the late 1800s, 43:47.200 --> 43:49.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it absorbed most of the Papal States, 43:49.400 --> 43:53.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% including the city of Rome, but the pope held out. 43:53.200 --> 43:56.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For 60 years, the pope was holed up here, 43:56.033 --> 43:58.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% behind the Vatican walls. 43:58.033 --> 44:00.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Finally, in 1929, the pope 44:00.233 --> 44:03.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and Mussolini signed the Lateran Treaty, 44:03.033 --> 44:06.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% establishing the Vatican as its own nation. 44:06.466 --> 44:08.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The garden-like core of the country, 44:08.233 --> 44:10.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% where serious administration takes place, 44:10.233 --> 44:12.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is closed to the public. 44:12.566 --> 44:16.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Vatican military is made up of the Swiss guard. 44:16.566 --> 44:20.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In 1506, the pope imported mercenaries from Switzerland 44:20.500 --> 44:23.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% who were known for their loyalty and their courage. 44:23.033 --> 44:25.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Today, about a hundred Swiss soldiers, 44:25.433 --> 44:28.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% clad in their flamboyant Renaissance-style uniforms, 44:28.666 --> 44:29.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% still protect the pope, 44:29.733 --> 44:33.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% keep the crush of visitors as orderly as possible, 44:33.366 --> 44:38.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and patiently answer tourists' questions. 44:38.133 --> 44:40.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Piazza San Pietro sits on what was the site 44:40.466 --> 44:42.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of an ancient Roman racetrack. 44:42.466 --> 44:45.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Imagine chariots making their hairpin turns 44:45.266 --> 44:46.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% around that obelisk. 44:46.733 --> 44:50.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For added entertainment during the games, 44:50.233 --> 44:52.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Christians were executed here. 44:52.266 --> 44:54.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In about 65 A.D., the Apostle Peter 44:54.633 --> 44:57.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was crucified within sight of this obelisk. 44:57.633 --> 45:00.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Peter's friends buried him in a nearby graveyard 45:00.733 --> 45:04.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% on what pagan Romans called the Vatican Hill. 45:04.466 --> 45:06.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% For 250 years, 45:06.233 --> 45:08.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Christians worshipped quietly at his tomb. 45:08.700 --> 45:10.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Then, in 313 A.D. 45:10.100 --> 45:12.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Emperor Constantine legalized Christianity 45:12.400 --> 45:14.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and changed the course of history. 45:14.433 --> 45:17.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% A basilica was built here, and this became 45:17.133 --> 45:19.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the head of the Roman Catholic Church. 45:19.433 --> 45:21.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% 1,200 years later, the original St. Peter's 45:21.700 --> 45:25.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was replaced by this most glorious church in Christendom. 45:26.300 --> 45:29.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Upon entering, your first impression is 45:29.500 --> 45:31.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it's huge. 45:31.500 --> 45:35.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% 600 feet long, bathed in sunbeams. 45:35.733 --> 45:39.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It can accommodate thousands of worshippers. 45:39.166 --> 45:43.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The ornamental cherubs dwarf a large man. 45:43.266 --> 45:48.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% As a tour guide, I've lost entire groups in here. 45:48.466 --> 45:51.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Visitors marvel at grand paintings 45:51.266 --> 45:52.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% decorating the many chapels, 45:52.733 --> 45:54.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% but they're not paintings at all. 45:54.700 --> 45:58.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Because oil on canvas would soon be covered by candle soot, 45:58.700 --> 46:01.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% you won't find actual paintings in St. Peter's, 46:01.633 --> 46:05.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% just the magnificent work of the Vatican School of Mosaics, 46:05.133 --> 46:07.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with thousands of different colors 46:07.133 --> 46:09.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in their arsenal of chips. 46:09.133 --> 46:13.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This scene, showing Peter looking after early Christians, 46:13.633 --> 46:16.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% while centuries old, looks almost new. 46:16.133 --> 46:20.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Michelangelo's "Pieta" is adored by pilgrims and tourists alike. 46:20.700 --> 46:23.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Here the 25-year-old Michelangelo makes 46:23.633 --> 46:26.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the theological message very clear -- 46:26.600 --> 46:29.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Jesus, once alive but now dead, 46:29.166 --> 46:31.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% gave his life for our salvation. 46:31.666 --> 46:35.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The contrast provided by Mary's rough robe 46:35.166 --> 46:36.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% makes his body, even though carved 46:36.633 --> 46:40.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% in hard marble, feel soft and believable. 46:41.166 --> 46:43.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The high altar, 46:43.166 --> 46:46.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% like so much of the art decorating the Vatican, 46:46.400 --> 46:48.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is another masterpiece by Bernini. 46:48.700 --> 46:50.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% With sunlight illuminating its alabaster window, 46:50.766 --> 46:53.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as if powering the Holy Spirit, 46:53.166 --> 46:56.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it encrusts the legendary throne of St. Peter 46:56.166 --> 46:59.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with a starburst of Baroque praise. 46:59.566 --> 47:03.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Directly above the altar which marks the tomb of St. Peter 47:03.166 --> 47:05.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% stands Bernini's bronze canopy, 47:05.366 --> 47:07.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and above that, Michelangelo's dome, 47:07.166 --> 47:09.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% taller than a football field on end. 47:11.766 --> 47:15.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The inscription declares, in Latin, "Tu es Petrus" -- 47:15.600 --> 47:18.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% "You are Peter, and upon this rock 47:18.400 --> 47:20.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I will build my church." 47:20.600 --> 47:22.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This is the scriptural basis 47:22.600 --> 47:26.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% for the primacy of Rome in the Catholic Church. 47:27.400 --> 47:30.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Climb Michelangelo's dome to the cupola 47:30.400 --> 47:31.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% for an unrivaled view of 47:31.400 --> 47:35.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% both Rome in general and the Vatican grounds. 47:35.600 --> 47:38.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The long rectangular building is the Vatican Museum, 47:38.600 --> 47:43.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% with one of the greatest collections of Western art anywhere. 47:44.000 --> 47:46.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Over the centuries, the popes have amassed 47:46.200 --> 47:49.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% enough art to fill eleven miles of museum hallways, 47:49.600 --> 47:53.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% sumptuously decorated with precious tapestries, 47:53.200 --> 47:57.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% dramatic frescoes, and ancient statues. 47:58.033 --> 48:01.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The museum features art from every age. 48:01.466 --> 48:03.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Its exquisite painting gallery includes 48:03.500 --> 48:07.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Raphael's much-loved "Transfiguration." 48:07.433 --> 48:09.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Halls and courtyards are littered with 48:09.766 --> 48:13.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ancient Greek and Roman masterpieces 48:13.033 --> 48:14.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% like the "Laocoön," 48:14.233 --> 48:19.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% so inspirational to the great masters of the Renaissance. 48:19.566 --> 48:22.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And the pope's apartments tell Christian history. 48:22.566 --> 48:26.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This is the battle in which Emperor Constantine 48:26.033 --> 48:28.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was led by angels and a holy cross 48:28.366 --> 48:30.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% both to a key military victory 48:30.100 --> 48:32.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and to his own religious conversion. 48:32.466 --> 48:36.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And these rooms celebrate pre-Christian philosophy. 48:36.400 --> 48:39.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Here Raphael paints "The School of Athens," 48:39.100 --> 48:42.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a who's who of ancient Greek intellectual heroes, 48:42.766 --> 48:44.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% many painted with the features 48:44.700 --> 48:47.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of Renaissance greats -- Leonardo, 48:47.500 --> 48:48.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Michelangelo, 48:48.700 --> 48:51.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and a self-portrait of Raphael himself. 48:51.466 --> 48:53.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Of course, there's much more, as we've just 48:53.633 --> 48:57.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% scratched the surface of this vast collection. 48:57.033 --> 48:59.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% If you're pondering eternity, 48:59.033 --> 49:03.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% try covering the Vatican Museum thoroughly. 49:05.333 --> 49:06.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Busy and big as Rome is, 49:06.666 --> 49:09.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% getting around is relatively easy. 49:09.666 --> 49:11.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% If your time's limited, 49:11.066 --> 49:13.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% catching a cab can be a good budget tip. 49:13.033 --> 49:15.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It's sweat-free and it's the quickest way 49:15.066 --> 49:15.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% from point to point. 49:15.600 --> 49:19.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Especially for a small group, it can be a fine value, 49:19.100 --> 49:20.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and from the window of the cab, 49:20.766 --> 49:23.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% we enjoy another lively look at the city. 49:23.033 --> 49:25.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I find Roman cabbies generally honest, 49:25.633 --> 49:27.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% but still, count your change. 49:27.500 --> 49:31.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In Rome, you simply round up whatever's on the meter. 49:31.100 --> 49:32.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% [ Speaks Italian ] 49:32.100 --> 49:34.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% -"Grazie." -"Grazie." 49:34.100 --> 49:35.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% "Ciao, grazie." 49:35.033 --> 49:37.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In 1870, Rome became the capital 49:37.100 --> 49:40.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of a newly united modern state of Italy. 49:40.500 --> 49:41.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Shortly after that, 49:41.500 --> 49:43.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the thunderous Victor Emmanuel Monument 49:43.300 --> 49:45.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% was built to honor Italy's first king. 49:45.466 --> 49:47.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% That's him on the huge horse. 49:47.400 --> 49:50.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The monument, built to stoke the spirit 49:50.100 --> 49:52.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of a new and struggling nation, 49:52.100 --> 49:55.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% harkens back to the glories of ancient Rome. 49:55.100 --> 49:57.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% In fact, if you want to envision 49:57.466 --> 49:59.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ancient Rome in its pomposity today, 49:59.766 --> 50:03.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% imagine a vast city made of buildings like this. 50:03.366 --> 50:06.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The square fronting it is where, in the 1930s, 50:06.700 --> 50:09.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Mussolini whipped up Italy's nationalistic fervor, 50:09.500 --> 50:12.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% ultimately sending a generation of Italian men off to 50:12.500 --> 50:15.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a catastrophic war, and to this day, 50:15.300 --> 50:16.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% here on the national altar burns 50:16.700 --> 50:20.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the eternal flame, remembering Italy's Unknown Soldier. 50:24.100 --> 50:26.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Riding the elevator to the top of the monument, 50:26.066 --> 50:31.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% we enjoy a sweeping view of the Eternal City. 50:31.500 --> 50:33.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Many locals love this perch, 50:33.700 --> 50:35.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% because from here, they can see 50:35.433 --> 50:38.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% nearly all of their beloved Rome. 50:45.666 --> 50:47.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Another towering Egyptian obelisk 50:47.566 --> 50:51.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% dramatically marks Piazza del Popolo. 50:51.300 --> 50:54.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This is the starting point of a ritual in Rome -- 50:54.600 --> 50:57.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the evening stroll, or "passeggiata." 50:57.433 --> 50:58.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% We're meeting my friend 50:58.600 --> 51:01.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and Roman tour guide, Francesca Caruso, 51:01.633 --> 51:03.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% to join in the fun. 51:03.333 --> 51:04.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% -Been working? -Yes, I have. 51:04.400 --> 51:06.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% -Let's go for a walk. I think it's a great time. 51:06.566 --> 51:07.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% -Yes, it's a perfect evening. 51:07.366 --> 51:12.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Steves: As the sun goes down, the people come out. 51:12.633 --> 51:14.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Downtown Rome's main street, 51:14.100 --> 51:16.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the Via del Corso, is pedestrianized, 51:16.500 --> 51:18.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and strollers just love it. 51:18.100 --> 51:25.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It offers some of the best people-watching anywhere. 51:26.533 --> 51:27.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Caruso: I think in the end, 51:27.566 --> 51:30.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% what I really like about the Italian way of life 51:30.300 --> 51:31.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and I really enjoy it here in Rome 51:31.733 --> 51:34.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is the fact that all I have to do is step outside 51:34.100 --> 51:36.433 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and I'm surrounded by people. I never feel lonely. 51:36.433 --> 51:39.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I always feel connected with a sense of community. 51:39.100 --> 51:40.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I think the "passeggiata" 51:40.100 --> 51:42.400 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is a wonderful way of living the city. 51:42.400 --> 51:44.366 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% So this is just sort of an inclination, 51:44.366 --> 51:46.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% early evening, cool of the day... 51:46.300 --> 51:46.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Oh, yes. 51:46.666 --> 51:48.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% You just go outside, meet your friends, 51:48.533 --> 51:50.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% have a gelato, an "aperitivo," 51:50.500 --> 51:51.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and just enjoy your city. 51:51.500 --> 51:53.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Check out who's with who, who's wearing what. 51:53.700 --> 51:55.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Oh, yes, that always, you know, the Italians 51:55.500 --> 51:58.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% are so aware of themselves and they like to be looked at 51:58.300 --> 52:00.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and they like to look at each other. 52:01.633 --> 52:03.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Steves: After dark, Rome takes on 52:03.700 --> 52:06.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% yet another personality, and a short walk 52:06.233 --> 52:09.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% laces together its top nightspots. 52:11.433 --> 52:12.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Back at Campo de' Fiori, 52:12.600 --> 52:15.466 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% the artichokes and tomatoes are packed away 52:15.466 --> 52:20.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and the social street lamps are turned on. 52:22.200 --> 52:23.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% These characteristic lanes, 52:23.266 --> 52:25.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% even late at night, feel safe and friendly. 52:25.666 --> 52:32.166 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The nearby Piazza Navona is a carnival 365 nights a year. 52:32.166 --> 52:34.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% While this oblong square got its shape 52:34.266 --> 52:36.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% from a long-gone ancient stadium, 52:36.266 --> 52:38.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% today the games are limited to 52:38.133 --> 52:43.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% browsing and flirting around its famous Bernini fountain. 52:45.233 --> 52:48.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Just down the street is the floodlit Pantheon. 52:48.533 --> 52:51.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% It looms high above our 21st century, 52:51.233 --> 52:53.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% as if aching to tell its story -- 52:53.600 --> 52:55.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% 2,000 years of Roman history. 52:55.600 --> 52:57.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% And at the same time, 52:57.033 --> 53:02.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% it provides a venerable backdrop for "al fresco" diners. 53:04.233 --> 53:08.200 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% There's too much life in the streets to go home yet. 53:08.200 --> 53:09.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Trevi Fountain's close by. 53:09.600 --> 53:12.233 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% This bubbly Baroque avalanche, dating from the 1700s, 53:12.233 --> 53:17.633 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% seems purpose-built for today's Roman embrace of life. 53:17.633 --> 53:20.766 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% With history, art, and people perpetually partying 53:20.766 --> 53:23.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% under the stars, it's no wonder people 53:23.133 --> 53:25.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% come here in droves for the promise that 53:25.066 --> 53:26.666 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% a coin tossed over the shoulder 53:26.666 --> 53:31.066 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% will assure their return to this Eternal City. 53:32.066 --> 53:33.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% That may sound silly, 53:33.266 --> 53:36.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% but every year, I go through the ritual, 53:36.266 --> 53:37.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and it works. 53:37.600 --> 53:38.600 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Whoa! 53:38.600 --> 53:39.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% But we're not done yet. 53:39.700 --> 53:42.300 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The final stop on our floodlit walk 53:42.300 --> 53:45.500 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% is the ever-popular Spanish Steps. 53:47.700 --> 53:50.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% The Piazza di Spagna has been the hangout 53:50.100 --> 53:52.100 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% of countless romantics over the years, 53:52.100 --> 53:56.700 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and I hope someday soon that includes you, too. 54:06.700 --> 54:07.733 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Rome. 54:07.733 --> 54:10.266 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Of course it's the city of Caesars, popes, 54:10.266 --> 54:12.566 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% and floodlit fountains, but for over 54:12.566 --> 54:16.033 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% three million people, it's also simply home. 54:16.033 --> 54:17.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Thanks for joining us. 54:17.133 --> 54:18.333 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% I'm Rick Steves. 54:18.333 --> 54:20.533 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% Until next time, keep on travelin'. 54:20.533 --> 54:22.133 align:start position:80% line:80% size:10% "Ciao."