-Hi, I'm Rick Steves.

I've spent the last 30 years

exploring Europe

from every conceivable angle,

and now it's time

to check it out

the way millions of people are.

Yep, we're on a cruise ship,

and we're sailing

the Mediterranean.

Welcome aboard.

♪♪

♪♪

♪♪

Cruising is really popular

these days.

In this special, I'd like to

explore the ins and outs

and pros and cons

of this travel option.

Sailing from Barcelona to Athens

with stops all along the way,

I'll toggle

from a floating resort

to exciting days on shore,

nearly each day

in a different country.

Massive cruise ships serve

as both transportation

and a floating hotel.

From our ship, we'll visit

some of the great ports

of the Mediterranean

and venture inland to

some of Europe's iconic sights.

We'll savor

romantic island getaways

and some lazy time

on the beach.

We'll learn how to make the most

of the cruising experience --

avoiding lines,

eating quick but local --

while exercising independence

to get the most out

of limited time on shore.

Along with the efficiencies

of cruising,

we'll show the downsides --

the inevitable congestion

and commercialization

that comes with mass tourism.

And as we sail

from port to port,

we'll enjoy our time

on board the ship --

a virtual playground at sea.

The Mediterranean Sea is bounded

by North Africa,

Europe, and the Middle East.

The typical cruise itinerary

covers the great European ports.

While most cruises focus

on either the West or the East,

we'll do a little of both.

Stopping in Barcelona,

Nice for the French Riviera,

La Spezia for Florence,

Civitavecchia for Rome,

Naples, Malta,

Athens, Mykonos,

and Santorini.

I'm not here to promote

or put down cruising.

For some people,

it's a great choice.

And for others it's not.

Cruising can be economical,

with your transportation,

room, and meals all included

at one price.

It can be ideal for those who

want everything taken care of

for their vacation,

and it can also be

an efficient platform

for independent types who want

to shape their own adventures

each day.

While there may be a lot

of things to enjoy on the ship,

the reason I cruise

the Mediterranean

is to experience

the Mediterranean.

The Mediterranean world

is filled with wonder

and richly rewards

the well-organized traveler.

The cultural variety

seems endless

and it shows itself

in traditions, cuisines,

and a distinctive love of life.

For thousands of years,

this was the center

of Western Civilization.

Exploring the Mediterranean,

you'll enjoy the sweep

of art history --

from ancient treasures

to the dazzling accomplishments

of the Renaissance

to modern wonders.

And it's just flat-out

beautiful.

No wonder the rich and fabulous

have built

their palaces and villas here

since ancient times.

The cruiser's challenge

is to decide

how to best experience

all these attractions.

Your goal:

to get the most out

of your vacation time

and money,

enjoy the best experiences,

and have fun.

Before we sight-see the greatest

hits of the Mediterranean,

let's get an overview

of cruising in general.

Ships can be huge.

Ours has about 3,000 passengers

with 1,500 crew

scrambling to keep everyone

well-served, safe, and happy.

Is it good travel?

That's up to you.

The way I see it,

of the guests on this ship,

a third of them

are just looking for

a floating alternative

to Las Vegas.

A third of them

are "bucket list" tourists

just checking things

off their list,

and a third of them

are independent-minded travelers

well-prepared and eager

to hit the ground running

as soon as that gangway

hits the pier.

Cruising originated as

an activity for the wealthy --

it was expensive and formal.

The joke was it was for

"the newlyweds, over-fed,

and nearly dead."

But, as ships get bigger

and bigger,

able to offer comforts

unimaginable in decades past,

cruising has changed

its image.

Today, it's younger,

more active,

and more affordable.

Most Mediterranean cruises

start and end in Venice, Rome,

or Barcelona.

Wherever you start,

you'll need to be patient.

This is your first peek

at the necessary efficiency

of the cruise industry.

It's a big logistical challenge

to get several thousand people

and their bags into their

staterooms on the first day.

Pack a little extra patience

and leave yourself

plenty of time

for the red tape

and orientation.

Once on board, I do one thing

right off the bat:

move in thoroughly.

Staterooms, while thoughtfully

designed, are tight,

so make things shipshape.

If you use all

your available storage space

and are constantly on guard

against clutter,

there's plenty of room.

I rarely use drawers

in hotel rooms,

but this is my home

for my entire vacation.

You just move in once,

so do it right away,

move in fully, and establish

your ship-shape standards.

On a cruise, you can get away

with packing heavier.

I bring more clothes than usual.

How dressy you need to be

is a matter of which

cruise line you choose

and your personal style.

As cruising has become

accessible to the middle class,

it's also become more casual.

This is as dressy as I get.

Most people pack

three kinds of outfits:

smart casual for evenings,

leisure wear for poolside

and relaxing on the ship,

and practical travel clothing

for time on shore.

Okay, I've moved in

and we're on our way.

We'll be in the French Riviera

in the morning.

We're settling into the rhythm

of a Mediterranean cruise --

sail at night and explore

a different port each day.

By the way, have some fun

with the key nautical terms.

I'm standing near the front --

that's the bow.

The back? It's the stern.

Left: port,

and right is starboard.

And remember,

it's not a "boat,"

it's a "ship."

For me, just "being at sea"

is a travel destination.

After our first departure,

or "sail-away,"

I find myself thinking

of the Mediterranean

as a sight in itself.

Make a point on departure day

to get to know

your floating home.

Take advantage of the signage

to understand the layout.

Modern ships are

smartly designed.

This ship has 1,500 staterooms

on 12 decks

gathered around

a central atrium

where you'll find places to

shop, hang out, eat, and drink.

♪♪

Explore the ship on

a good orientation walk.

The library

is generally quiet and empty.

The gym comes

with amazing views.

You'll discover places --

like tucked-away lounges --

that others may miss.

In this floating resort,

the top deck --

with its swimming pool --

is the equivalent of the beach.

When it comes to fun-in-the-sun,

poolside seems to be

the center of the universe.

But if you crave

the tranquility of a park,

this ship has actual grass.

I don't know what happened

to shuffleboard,

but a little bocce ball

will do just fine.

Each morning, the deck

is busy with walkers --

eight laps and it's a mile.

Being confined on a ship,

it's important to stay active.

I make a pact:

anticipating lots of eating,

I shall avoid the elevators

and use the stairs instead.

They say the average cruise

passenger gains a pound a day,

but not me.

Cruising can work well

for families

and for groups

traveling together.

Each person can pick and choose

how much to see and do

both on land and at sea,

and still get together

for dinner every evening.

And cruising also works

for people who can't walk well

or who are less active --

the entire ship is as accessible

as any modern resort.

Along with the advantages,

cruising has its downsides.

Many would say it can insulate

you from the "real Europe."

You're going to

the most famous places

and seeing them at the same time

with thousands

of other tourists.

That's just the nature

of cruising.

Those who don't make a concerted

effort at minimizing the crowds

may come home with memories

of congestion

and lots of wasted time.

Cruise ships drop large numbers

of people in the same place

at the same time.

Small ports

can be overwhelmed by crowds

when the ship's in port,

even worse when several ships

are there on the same day.

And then,

when the ships sail away,

the port suddenly becomes less

crowded and more romantic --

something cruisers

won't experience

because they're back on the ship

heading to the next port.

Many cruisers are not

very energetic sightseers.

If you are,

get out early as possible

and come back late as you can.

Doing this,

you'll enjoy fewer crowds

and more unforgettable moments.

With each port, you've got

sightseeing options:

You can take

the organized bus tour

and be on their time table,

or you can hire a private guide.

You can use a guidebook

and be your own guide,

or you can just hang out

and be thoroughly on vacation.

There's no right or wrong --

it depends on your mood

and your style.

Many cruise travelers

invest in the cruise line's

shore excursions.

Excursions can be

active or easy,

fully guided,

or just providing transportation

and free time.

While pricey,

they can also be

a time- and cost-effective way

to cover those must-see

sights and experiences.

And there's usually

a bus tour option

designed for people

with limited mobility.

But as these tours

target the touristy clichés

and many buses hit

the same sites at the same time,

you'll often be right

in the thick of the crowds.

If you're not purchasing the

cruise ship sightseeing package,

you've got an array

of fine alternatives.

Mediterranean ports

seem to be designed

as springboards

for independent travelers.

In most port terminals, you'll

find reputable local companies

offering essentially the same

tours as the cruise lines

for a fraction of the cost.

Another option:

book a private guide in advance.

It's a comfort

to be met at the port

with a warm, personal welcome.

Legions of private guides

earn their living

serving cruisers directly.

You can book a guide

and share the cost --

four people

hiring a guide with a car

costs about the same

as four people

taking the cruise excursion.

And with a guide, you get

your own private teacher,

you're sure to know

the way to the summit,

and you enjoy the freedom

to go at your own pace.

And you can simply be

your own guide.

You'll find helpful

tourist offices.

And, most ports are

well-served by public transit.

Independent types and those

on a tight budget

can use a guidebook.

There are handy guidebooks

designed to help you get the

most out of your time in port.

And, taking advantage of apps

featuring self-guided walks

on your smartphone

empowers

the independent traveler

with plenty of

good touring information.

In many big cities,

hop-on, hop-off companies offer

do-it-yourselfers

economic and efficient

transportation.

Buses meet the cruise ships

at the port

and offer big loop tours

connecting major sights,

letting you hop off and on

all day long,

and dropping you

back at the port.

And finally,

you're on vacation.

You have the option

to do nothing.

Anyone can simply walk or catch

a ride in to the town center

and just delight

in a free day --

shopping, browsing,

sipping a local drink,

or soaking up some sun

on the beach.

♪♪

[ Laughter ]

Because ships sail at night,

you rarely enjoy

a characteristic dinner on shore

or the romance

of a town after dark.

Having said that,

I enjoy the evenings

on the ship --

hanging out with new friends

and thinking about

tomorrow's destination.

So, tomorrow,

it's the French Riviera.

The cruise line sells a

selection of excursions

for every port.

Early on, it's good to review

what's offered,

decide which tours --

if any -- are right for you,

and book them.

The excursion desk is dedicated

to explaining

and selling the many

onshore tours and activities.

For the eager students,

some ships offer

a talk each evening

to preview the next day's

sightseeing options

and to promote their tours.

-Our mission --

that you enjoy every port of

call to the maximum. Yes?

-Arriving at our first port,

with its blue or azure waters,

it's clear why France's Riviera

is nicknamed the Cote d'Azur.

Cruise ships stop in one

of three ports --

Nice...

Monaco...

or Villefranche.

Each is a delight to explore,

a short ride apart by train --

and today, we'll see them all.

Villefranche

has a fine harbor,

but it doesn't have a dock

big enough for a cruise ship.

So, we're dropping the hook

and getting ashore

in a small boat

called a "tender."

♪♪

Be sure you understand

exactly what time

the last tender shuttles

back to the ship.

Today, it's 4:30.

The French Riviera lends

itself to independent touring.

I love Villefranche,

but to be sure we don't

miss our ship,

we'll enjoy this port

at the end of the day.

While the ship's

information desk

is designed to sell the

cruise line's shore excursions,

tourist offices on shore

are a service

designed to help

independent travelers.

Okay,

I've got maps for each town

and a train schedule --

there's one leaving

in 10 minutes.

Trains along the Riviera

leave a couple times an hour.

And towns here are

about 20 minutes apart.

Today we'll enjoy

a couple hours in Nice,

a couple hours

in Monte Carlo,

and then run out the clock

back here in Villefranche.

We're starting in Nice

while the market's still lively.

The well-organized traveler

can do a lot

during an eight-hour stop.

Using a good guidebook

and public transportation,

exploring the French Riviera

is a snap.

It's fun and economical to

take advantage of public transit

in the bigger cities.

Nice has a single tramline

that glides from

the train station

right to the old center.

This is pure France.

As I like to say, Nice is nice,

and the market is thriving.

Une socca, s'il vous plaît.

Here, you can savor

the distinct flavor

of this southeastern corner

of France.

-Beautiful.

Socca, the local chickpea bread,

is delicious hot off

the griddle

and just right

for a bite on the go.

-Thank you very much.

-Thank you.

-Merci bien. Au revoir.

Mediterranean towns make their

promenades people-friendly

and Nice's Promenade des Anglais

is a fine example.

While I could rent a bike,

a lazy stroll

and some beach time

feels just about right.

I'll be on the train to Monaco

or Monte Carlo

in about an hour,

but right now?

Ohh, yeah.

Back on the train,

I'm enjoying my independence,

my baguette avec fromage ,

and amazing Riviera scenery.

In half an hour,

we'll be in Monaco.

It's a tiny country

about the size of Manhattan.

Monaco is dominated

by its harbor,

and its harbor is filled

with the massive yachts

of massively wealthy tycoons.

The city is small enough

that you can walk

to all of its main sights

in a couple of hours.

I have time for two stops:

the famous casino --

imagine all the fortunes won

and lost here,

mostly lost --

and the cute little

royal palace.

We're here just in time for

the changing of the guard.

[ Band playing ]

And a visit to the palace is

capped with a commanding view.

Riding the train back

to our port, Villefranche,

it's comforting

to see our ship at anchor.

The sleepy town of Villefranche

feels made for relaxation.

The beach is inviting.

And the harbor-front

is the perfect place

to enjoy a final drink

on the Riviera.

We've got 45 minutes before the

last tender back to our ship.

There's no way we're going

to miss our connection,

and that means plenty of time

to enjoy a relaxing pastis.

We've caught the last tender.

Security on board

is taken very seriously

and it's efficiently organized.

Because everyone

swipes in and out

with their identity cards,

at any given moment,

the staff knows exactly

who's on the ship

and who's still on shore.

With everyone back on board,

it's time to haul anchor

and sail away.

This is one of the pleasures

of cruising.

Until you get to the next port,

you're free to relax

any way you want.

You can read a book on deck,

head to the spa,

exercise,

or enjoy one of the

numerous bars all over the ship.

I'm into the rhythm now.

After a full day of sightseeing,

I'm ready to relax:

stowed my wallet in the room,

got comfortable,

and I'm looking forward

to dinner

and an evening at sea.

By the way, even with

so many people on board,

I'm impressed by

how it rarely feels crowded.

If you want quiet,

you can find it.

Do you have kids?

-Mm-hmm. One son.

-One son. How old is he?

-34.

-See, my son is 30.

-30!

-Can you believe you've got

a 34-year-old son?

-No way.

[ Laughter ]

-If you're in the mood

to socialize,

you can enjoy

an impromptu balcony party

with friends

you've made on board.

And if you want more action,

there is always lots going on.

[ Lively music plays ]

It seems any excuse for a party

is good enough.

Full moon tonight --

yep, it's the full moon party.

♪♪

One thing I like about cruising

is how easy it is

to meet people.

♪♪

People who are young at heart.

♪♪

♪♪

Many major cruise destinations

are actually landlocked

and far from the sea.

For example, Florence.

Our ship docks in La Spezia,

a couple hours away

by bus or train.

Like in many cruise ports,

we arrive in a gritty world of

shipping containers and cranes.

And from this springboard,

lots of eager travelers

are up and out early

to catch their tour buses.

Like thousands of

other travelers,

today we're heading

into Florence --

and most of us have the same

great sights in mind:

Michelangelo's David

and the Uffizi Gallery.

Taking the cruise line's tour,

I know I'll get a quick blitz of

the great sights of Florence.

The tour includes

transportation,

reservations

for the big attractions,

a professional guide,

and the assurance that

we'll make it

back to the ship on time.

Florence is one of those places

everybody wants to see,

and almost everybody wants

to see the same sights.

You won't be alone.

While those without reservations

will waste lots of precious time

in lines,

with a tour,

you'll be more efficient --

certain to see the glories

of the Florentine Renaissance:

Brunelleschi's

magnificent dome...

Botticelli's Birth of Venus ...

and Michelangelo's David .

♪♪

As we make our way toward Rome,

let's consider how to stay

within your budget

while on the ship.

Cruise ships are businesses.

They need to make money,

and there's not much profit

in the base cost of a trip.

So they need to make more money

from land excursions

and from extras you buy

while on board --

things like gambling,

photography,

shopping, and alcohol.

As smart consumers,

it's important

to understand the game plan.

It's possible, technically,

to do the entire cruise

with no extra expenses on board,

but extras are enticing.

They're cleverly sold,

and your purchases

can really add up.

It's a cashless world

on the ship.

Along with getting you

into your stateroom,

your handy ID card

is how you buy things.

Onboard, there's lots of

temptations,

and purchases feel painless --

like it's almost free...

until you check out and get the

grand total for your final bill.

Our next port serves Rome,

another inland city.

Like for Florence,

the ship docks

in an industrial

container port.

Here, in Civitavecchia,

the cruise line provides

a shuttle bus

to the end of the port

from where we sort through

our transportation options.

In this case, most independent

cruisers just hop on the train.

Within an hour, we're in Rome.

While Rome may be

"The Eternal City,"

our cruise schedule

gives it just a single day.

You'll need to be smart

and selective.

Do it with a thoughtful plan --

with reservations

or a guided tour

to minimize your time in lines.

Rome has two main

sightseeing zones.

The ancient city includes

the awe-inspiring Colosseum,

the Forum with the magnificence

of the empire apparent

even in its ruins,

and the glorious Pantheon.

Amazingly preserved,

this building gives us a sense

of the splendor of ancient Rome

better than any other.

And across the Tiber River

stands Vatican City

with the towering

St. Peter's Basilica,

the exhilarating treasures

of the Vatican Museum,

and Michelangelo's

beloved Sistine Chapel.

♪♪

♪♪

-Welcome to the tour.

We're going to head down the

main corridor right over here.

So, everyone, follow me.

-Back on board, we got tickets

for a behind-the-scenes tour

of our ship.

Modern cruise ships

are engineering

and technical marvels.

We start on the bridge,

where the captain and his crew

enjoy the ultimate vantage point

and state-of-the-art

navigational tools

to be sure we're on track.

In the control room,

we learn how the ship

is like

a sophisticated organism --

making its own fresh water

from the sea,

monitoring its vast power,

and making sure

all systems are go.

Passing through the living

quarters of the crew,

we're reminded that

1,500 hard-working people

live in a parallel world

under the care-free vacation

decks above.

-All the fruit that we have

here is coming from Italy,

from Poland, and from Spain.

-The officer in charge of the

ship's inventory of food

explains how the produce

necessary

to feed thousands of people

is managed.

And we finish our tour

with a look at the bustling

and well-coordinated

kitchen, or galley.

Our next stop is Naples.

I love coming into port.

If you're up early,

you can enjoy the approach:

sunrise over Mount Vesuvius.

And here comes one of Europe's

most intense

yet rewarding cities.

Here in Naples, the cruise

terminal is right down town.

Along with the conventional

cruise line tour buses,

you'll find budget alternatives

for do-it-yourself travelers.

In ports like Naples,

the scene can feel aggressive.

Stepping through

the port security gate,

you may find yourself

in an assertive

scrum of cabbies and tour guides

eager to take you for a ride.

While we could make a deal

here on the spot

for our sightseeing needs,

I've made arrangements

in advance.

If you're leaving the ship

as an independent traveler,

remember: cruise ports attract

hustlers and con-artists --

people looking to over-charge

na ï ve tourists

for their services.

Look for fixed

and regulated prices.

Also, be smart

about your valuables.

I leave my passport on the ship.

- Buongiorno !

- Buongiorno ! I am Rafael...

Using my guidebook, I've booked

a private tour guide with a car.

In moments, we're zipping

under Mount Vesuvius

and heading for a quick

look at Pompeii.

While pricey for a solo

traveler,

we're beating the crowds

and I've got the luxury

of my own guide

here at one of Europe's

great ancient sights.

It's amazing to think

that Pompeii

was a thriving Roman city

and then, in AD 79,

Mount Vesuvius blew its top,

and the city was buried

in a flood of hot ash and mud.

The excavations give us a look

at life in ancient Rome

like none other.

♪♪

♪♪

With my driver and guide,

I'm nimble and independent.

By mid-day,

we're back in Naples,

free to see things far

from the cruise crowds.

This old quarry

is the Fontanelle Ossuary.

It's been filled with

human bones for centuries --

a sight I bet no one

from our ship is visiting today.

But it's on my list

and perfectly doable.

The quarry is filled with bones

from emptied church cemeteries.

I learned that

in the 19th century,

Neapolitans would actually

adopt a skull,

build it a little house,

and count on the skull's soul

in heaven to advocate

for them in times of need.

♪♪

I love exploring

the characteristic

neighborhoods of Naples,

and the most crazy

and vivid is Sanitá.

Just wandering through

this district

is a cultural carnival.

For me, the back streets

of Naples

offer the gritty reality

of urban Italy.

Now within easy striking

distance of our ship,

I say goodbye to our guide

and grab a characteristic lunch

in the city famous

as the birthplace of pizza.

The food on the ship is good

but generally ignores

the cuisine of whatever port

we're visiting.

So, for lunch,

rather than fast food

or some forgettable sandwich,

choose authentic local food

designed to be eaten quickly.

And here in Naples,

it's got to be pizza.

Each country has its quick

and easy go-to meal.

It's tapas in Spain.

My favorite Barcelona tapas

bars are Basque style --

you just grab what looks good

and then count the toothpicks

on your plate

to figure out how much you owe.

In France, I love a good

salade niçoise .

What better lunch in Nice?

In Greece, a souvlaki pita

is fast, tasty, and cheap.

And in Istanbul, it's fresh fish

right off the big, tipsy dingy.

[ Conversation

in native language ]

This is Istanbul fast food.

Tonight, as we sail for Malta,

the grand foyer

is put to good use

for the cruise ritual

of meeting the ship's officers.

-Your captain,

from Greece as well,

Captain [indistinct],

ladies and gentlemen!

[ Cheers and applause ]

-That's followed by a little bit

of floating razzmatazz.

-[ Singing indistinctly ]

♪♪

-And, as the night wears on,

up at the pool is a chance

for everyone to literally dance

to their own beat --

wearing headphones,

you can select your favorite

style of music

at the silent disco.

It's a surreal experience

made even more so

by the graceful mermaid.

♪♪

[ Cheers and applause ]

♪♪

[ Cheers and applause ]

♪♪

The captain advised being up

early to enjoy the entry

to the Grand Harbor of Malta.

Clearly, this port

was well-worth

some serious fortifications.

Our ship just squeezes

into the historic harbor,

and in moments,

we're in the old center of town

ready for a busy day

of sightseeing.

Malta is a tiny

independent country

set between Sicily and Africa.

With a culture enriched by

a long parade of civilizations,

it's a strategically

placed island nation

with an extraordinary history.

The capital city of Valletta

is a stony monument

to this hard-fought history.

And the dramatic view

from the ramparts

of the heavily fortified harbor

reminds the visitor of Malta's

strategic importance

through the centuries.

Of the many cultures

that shaped it,

perhaps most obvious

is its British heritage.

Malta spent 150 years

as part of the British Empire.

While it gained its independence

in 1964,

Malta retains

its British flavor:

English-style pubs and food,

statues of queens...

and red phone booths.

♪♪

If this feels like

a fortress city,

it's because it was the capital

of the Knights of St. John,

also known as

the Knights of Malta.

Malta's stout walls --

many of them incorporated into

existing limestone cliffs --

survived a siege in 1565

of 40,000 Ottoman sailors.

After the Turkish threat passed,

the city was ornamented

with delightful architecture,

including characteristic

enclosed balconies,

called gallarija.

As you stroll,

you'll enjoy an inviting

and nostalgic patina of age

in its facades.

A short drive through Malta's

dry and timeless landscape

takes us to the fisherman's

harbor of Marsaxlokk.

A favorite with cruise

travelers,

it's home to a fleet of typical

Maltese fishing boats.

While Marsaxlokk has a fine main

square and church,

the action is along

the harbor --

especially during

the Sunday market,

when it's all about fish.

Tradition says that

the shape of the boats

goes back eight centuries

before Christ

to when Malta

was a Phoenician colony.

These colorful boats pop

in the dazzling sunlight,

seeming to celebrate yet

another distinct heritage

of the Mediterranean world.

When the distance between ports

is longer than

an overnight ride,

the ship spends

an entire day at sea.

You know, one of

my favorite things

about a Mediterranean cruise

is the day at sea --

sleep in, leisurely brunch,

read a book,

just hang out by the pool.

For activities on board,

each evening a printed program

with a busy schedule

for the next day

lands on your bed.

Cruise lines work hard to make

time on the ship enjoyable.

They arrange something

for everyone:

poolside is ground zero

for fun and relaxation outdoors.

Every day is filled with

ship-sponsored activities --

like dance classes.

And there are plenty of other

ways to enjoy the sunny hours

on deck.

♪♪

Different cruise lines

serve different markets.

Smaller ships generally

charge more

and are able

to visit smaller ports.

Of the big ship options,

you have a range

of prices and styles.

When shopping for a cruise,

there are two

major considerations:

the itinerary and the character

of the cruise line.

It's your choice:

family-friendly,

young and trendy, older

and more mature, and so on.

It's pretty obvious

by the advertising

which market's being targeted

and the general style

of the passengers

you'll be

sharing your ship with.

Your cruise price will also vary

according to your choice

of cabin class.

Like the vast majority

of those on this ship,

I'm staying in

a basic stateroom.

On the newer ships, most rooms

come with a small balcony.

I enjoy the fresh air,

the views,

and quiet moments

on my own deck.

If money's no concern,

you have some pretty fancy

top end options.

Rooms cost more or less

depending on view, size,

location,

and package of services.

Italy juts 600 miles

into the Mediterranean.

It divides the sea from a cruise

itinerary point of view

into western ports

and eastern ports.

We're sailing east,

into the Greece's Aegean Sea

for three more stops.

Next up: Athens.

The port of Athens is Piraeus,

another industrial springboard

serving a popular destination.

While Athens

is perfectly tourable

for the independent traveler,

many opt for

the cruise line's excursion.

Cruise lines excel

in efficiency.

Before leaving the ship,

tourists meet in the theater,

get their tour group number,

are escorted

to their awaiting bus,

and meet the guide.

Within minutes,

they're on their way

as he narrates the ride into

town with information

about the leading city

of ancient Greece --

the home of Socrates and Plato.

Today, Athens is

a sprawling metropolis

of four million people.

But, in the 19th century,

it was just a small town

huddled at the base

of its once mighty acropolis.

That old town is today's

touristy shopping quarter,

called the Plaka,

with its fun eateries,

colorful markets,

and shops filled

with knickknacks.

Next to the modern markets

you find the ancient

market -- the Agora,

with one of the best

surviving temples

from ancient Greece --

the Temple of Hephaestus.

But everyone's got their sights

set on the Acropolis.

Our group converges

with other groups,

and everyone clamors

up the famous hill.

While cruisers are unavoidably

a part of this crush,

guides do a good job of managing

the cruise ship rush hour

each morning.

Once on top, tourists marvel

at the iconic Parthenon

as guides do their best

to bring the ruins to life.

And from the summit

of this historic bluff,

all are rewarded

with a commanding view

of sprawling Athens.

After each day of sightseeing,

back at the ship, passengers

enjoy the ritual welcome.

A cool cloth

and a refreshing drink,

and they're back home

in their floating resort.

Cruise lines employ

a lot of people:

a ratio of about one worker

for every two passengers.

A typical crew comes from dozens

of developing world countries.

A fun and extra dimension

of cruising

is getting to interact

with people

whose cultures you know

almost nothing about.

[ Cheering ]

Crew members work very hard,

often seven 12-hour days

a week for months

at a stretch, far

from their homes

and families.

While they don't make much money

from a First World

point of view,

they make a solid living

on their country's scale

and are able to help

support their families.

Their base pay is only a part

of their wage

and much of their income

is based on tips.

Tipping on the ship

is automatic.

Most cruise lines use

an "auto tip" system

with a healthy gratuity

added to your bill

that generously covers

all your service crew.

Of course, you can adjust it

if you like

and you're welcome

to leave a little extra

for particular crew members

who you especially appreciate.

Our last two stops

are fabled Greek islands

in the Aegean Sea.

The Isle of Mykonos

comes with a classic

white-washed Greek port.

While a small island

with a small main town,

it's a standard stop

for the big cruise ships.

There's a pier

for only one ship,

so most ships drop the hook

and shuttle

their people in by tender.

If visiting by cruise ship, it's

smart to get an early start.

We caught the first tender --

beat the crowds

and beat the heat.

It's easy to enjoy Mykonos Town

with no planning, no tour,

and no guide.

This is a stop which lends

itself to unstructured free time

just lazing on the beach,

wandering,

and browsing the shops.

It's the epitome

of a Greek island town:

a busy breakwater, fine little

beach, and inviting lanes.

While tourism dominates

the economy,

Mykonos still has

a traditional charm

thickly layered

with white stucco,

blue trim,

and colorful bougainvillea.

Back lanes offer tranquility

away from the cruise crowds.

As in many Greek island towns,

centuries ago

the windmills of Mykonos

harnessed the steady wind,

grinding grain

to feed its sailors.

Five mills still stand,

perfectly positioned

to catch the prevailing breeze.

A tidy embankment is so pretty

they call it "little Venice."

Wealthy shipping merchants

built this row

of fine mansions

with brightly painted wooden

balconies that seem to rise

right out of the sea.

Today, these mansions have been

refitted as restaurants and bars

for tourists enjoying fresh fish

and romantic views.

Mykonos' status

in the last generation

was as a fashionable

destination for jet-setters,

and it retains

a certain hip cachet.

These days, tacky trinket stalls

share the lanes

with top-end fashion boutiques.

Prices are high, and, in season,

the island is crammed

full of vacationers.

But, even with four ships

in the harbor today,

there seems to be

plenty of room.

There's a range of beaches on

Mykonos.

The most trendy is Paradise,

one of the ultimate

party beaches in the Aegean.

Presided over by hotels that run

bars for young beachgoers,

the Paradise action

is non-stop.

While the beach becomes

a raging dance floor after dark,

the deejay is busy all day as

the cruise set joins backpackers

from around the world

to enjoy the scene.

As is standard around here,

beaches rent comfortable lounge

furniture with umbrellas.

Just plop onto whatever appeals.

Don't worry, the

drinks will come to you.

If you prefer a quieter scene,

the more remote beaches

are a short drive further out.

While extremely arid,

the stony countryside

of Mykonos -- complete with

white-washed churches

and staggering views -- is

a delight for a quick road trip.

Agios Sostis, an old

hippie beach

at the north end of the island,

has none of the thumping

party energy of Paradise Beach.

It offers little beyond

lovely sand,

turquoise water,

and tranquility.

And, for many, it's their

Greek Isle dream come true.

Along with its beaches,

Mykonos offers a major

historic attraction.

It's on an uninhabited

neighboring island,

a 30-minute shuttle boat

ride away.

The island of Delos was one

of the most important places

in the ancient Greek world...

...with temples honoring

the birthplace

of the twin gods

Apollo and Artemis.

Centuries before Christ,

Delos attracted pilgrims

from across the Western world.

Delos was important in

three different ancient eras --

first as a religious site,

then as the treasury

of the Athenian League --

that was sort of the "Fort Knox"

of the ancient world --

and later, during Roman times,

this was one of the busiest

commercial ports

in the entire

Mediterranean.

Delos ranked right up there with

Olympia, Athens, and Delphi.

Survey the remains

of the ancient harbor...

foundations of shops

and homes...

and hillsides littered

with temple remains.

The iconic row

of sphinx-like lions

still heralds the importance

of the place.

This was one of the Aegean

world's finest cities.

Imagine Delos in its heyday --

a booming center of trade:

streets lined

with 3,000 shops where you

could buy just about anything,

dazzling mansions

of wealthy merchants

with colonnaded

inner courtyards.

There were fine mosaics --

like this one of the

god Dionysus riding a panther.

Culture thrived here,

enough to keep this theater --

which could seat 6,000 -- busy.

I cap my visit by climbing

to the summit of the island.

My reward: one of the

Mediterranean's

great king-of-the-mountain

thrills.

As you observe the chain

of islands

dramatically swirling

in 360 degrees,

you can understand

why historians believe

that these Cycladic Islands

got their name from the way

they make a circle, or cycle,

around this oh-so-important

little island of Delos.

Back on the ship, we set sail

for our last Greek island.

By the nature of a cruise

schedule, dinners are at sea.

Food is unlimited

and generally included.

There's a constant risk

of overeating,

and for some cruisers,

there's a temptation

to see if you can eat five meals

a day and still snorkel

when you get to the port.

Traditionally,

there's one big dining room

where cruisers have

a set table and dining time,

with the same table mates,

and a chance to

get to know their server.

But that's changing

as people want less formality

and more flexibility.

Now there are more options:

cafes, snack bars,

and a burger grill poolside.

The standby

is a sprawling cafeteria

with a huge

and efficient selection of food

available at almost any hour.

There's a vast selection

of meats,

hot foods,

salads,

fruit...

and desserts.

And ships also offer

a variety of higher quality

specialty restaurants.

These are more formal,

often require reservations,

and come with a surcharge.

If you don't mind

the extra fee,

they can be a romantic

and tasty option.

Many cruise lines still have

formal night about once a week,

usually on the day at sea.

While this is becoming

more optional,

the personality of the ship

still changes on these evenings.

On our ship, the dress code

was called "casual chic"

rather than "formal."

If you don't want to dress up,

no problem --

just steer clear

of the formal areas.

But for many people,

this is the time

to put on a suit and tie

or a glamorous gown.

When you do that, a romantic

moment at sea by moonlight

is particularly memorable.

♪♪

I enjoy the scenic arrivals

and departures by cruise ship.

Being on the top deck as you

approach the day's destination

gives you

a quiet, bird's-eye view.

Approaching an exotic

and fabled island

like Santorini -- as the moon

sets and the sun rises,

just kissing the lip

of the breath-taking cliffs --

is worth getting up for.

Santorini is a dramatic

island --

the rim of a volcanic crater

with spectacular vistas.

Once a complete island

like its neighbors,

it was a volcano that --

about 3,500 years ago --

blew its top, creating a caldera

-- this flooded crater.

Today, inviting

white-washed villages

seem to crowd

its dramatic ridges

as if jostling

to enjoy the views.

Because Santorini's pier

is small,

giant cruise ships drop anchor

and tender their passengers

in on small shuttle boats.

Individuals go to

the tiny "old harbor"

where they can ride a donkey

up the zig-zag trail

or hop a cable car to the scenic

lip of the island crater.

Those paying for the cruise

line's excursion

get off the ship first, and head

for an alternative port,

where buses and guides await.

Considering the crush

of the crowds, the limited time,

and the scattered array

of interesting sights,

investing in a bus tour

like this to see Santorini

can be a good value.

Within minutes, you'll be

powering up the switch-backs

into the island as

your guide narrates the drive.

Santorini is arid,

with no lakes or rivers.

We're here in early September,

and they haven't

had rain since May.

But grapes on Santorini

soak up the sun

and make the island's

distinctive wine.

As they have since

ancient times,

vintners shape the vines

into protective baskets

in hopes that they'll collect

the dew and survive the wind.

The Santorini fruit of the vine

is both hearty and sweet.

Many excursions include

a winery tour with a chance

to taste the local wine.

Sure, this stop is designed

to accommodate the masses

and might not be

as charming as you hoped.

Still, the wine's good and

the group's having lots of fun.

Cruise line excursions

come with a steady commentary...

-Those two

are the Kameni Islands.

The Kameni Islands are actually

made of lava rock.

-...scenic views from the bus,

and the stress-free efficiency

of getting smoothly

from point to point.

And tour groups are sure to have

free time at the best photo ops.

Oia is the postcard image

of the Greek Isles.

This idyllic ensemble

of white-washed houses

and characteristic domes

is delicately draped

over a steep slope

at the top of a cliff.

Viewpoints here are some of

the most striking

in the Greek Seas as tourists

clamor for just the right angle.

Artists fall in love

with Oia and move in.

Honeymooners find the B&B

of their dreams

and savor breakfast

in unforgettable settings.

And at the quiet end of town,

the old windmill reminds all of

a more rustic age gone by.

♪♪

To get the absolute most out

of our Santorini day,

I've booked half a day

with Dimitris.

Of Santorini's many beaches,

Kamari is one of the best.

The black sand is a reminder of

the island's volcanic origin.

Typical of Greek island

resort beaches,

it's lined with

rentable lounge chairs

and a strip

of seafood restaurants.

And with Dimitris, I know

exactly what I'm eating.

These salads look delicious.

Can you tell me about them?

-Well, we have here a Greek

salad and a Santorini salad.

The difference

with the local salad is

that we use the local tomatoes,

the cherry tomatoes,

the local cucumbers,

and instead of the feta cheese,

we use the goat cheese,

and we add the capers

and the caper leaves.

See, you can eat them.

They taste good.

We got some sardines here,

grilled.

And on the other side, we've got

a very nice grilled calamari,

also served with salad, the

lemon, and the olive oil.

-This is a healthy diet.

-This is the Mediterranean diet.

-We bid our guide goodbye

to enjoy our last couple

of hours in Fira,

Santorini's main town.

Fira is the island's commercial

and transportation hub.

Its main street --

thronged with tourists

whenever there's

a cruise ship in the bay --

seems like little more than

a long line of shops, cafes,

and restaurants --

all with staggering views.

Enjoying the island

with a local guide

and then taking a short break

to enjoy a cliff-side bar

filled with happy travelers

from around the world

is a reminder that,

even if on a cruise,

you can exercise

your independence and spark

some great travel moments.

Keeping my eye on the clock,

I hop the cable car back

down to the old port,

where our ship's shuttle,

or tender, awaits.

Most cruisers get nervous

about missing the ship

and head back earlier

than necessary.

I find the ports are least

crowded and most relaxed

and enjoyable

during that last hour.

The last tender isn't leaving

for 15 minutes.

That's plenty of time

for one last ouzo.

A cruise can be

what you make of it:

a pre-packaged travel cliché,

or a springboard

for the independent spirit.

Whether you took

the cruise excursion,

or hopped a donkey,

or just had lunch in port,

you'll take home

unforgettable memories.

A cruise allows you to explore

this unique and historic region

in a way that suits you best.

Whether that's touring

ancient sites in Greece,

crossing off some of those

"must see" highlights

in Italy or France,

or just relaxing on

the beach of your dreams.

As with travel in general,

for cruisers, life-long memories

such as these can be yours

when you know your options

and then match them with

your personal style of travel.

Our cruise is nearing its end,

and I'm savoring

our last evening at sea.

While we've enjoyed a quick look

at a selection

of Mediterranean ports,

there are plenty more.

We'll be back in the real world

in the morning.

♪♪

There are many ways

to explore Europe.

For a lot of people,

taking a cruise --

especially if you know how

to do it smartly --

can be a practical mix of

efficiency, economy, and fun.

I hope you've enjoyed

our Mediterranean cruise.

I'm Rick Steves.

Until next time,

keep on travelin'.

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