1 00:00:01,566 --> 00:00:02,900 -Hi, I'm Rick Steves. 2 00:00:02,966 --> 00:00:04,300 I've spent the last 30 years 3 00:00:04,366 --> 00:00:06,500 exploring Europe from every conceivable angle, 4 00:00:06,566 --> 00:00:08,400 and now it's time to check it out 5 00:00:08,466 --> 00:00:10,000 the way millions of people are. 6 00:00:10,066 --> 00:00:12,033 Yep, we're on a cruise ship, 7 00:00:12,100 --> 00:00:14,300 and we're sailing the Mediterranean. 8 00:00:14,366 --> 00:00:15,633 Welcome aboard. 9 00:00:15,700 --> 00:00:23,666 ♪♪ 10 00:00:23,733 --> 00:00:31,666 ♪♪ 11 00:00:31,733 --> 00:00:39,733 ♪♪ 12 00:00:39,800 --> 00:00:42,333 Cruising is really popular these days. 13 00:00:42,400 --> 00:00:45,033 In this special, I'd like to explore the ins and outs 14 00:00:45,100 --> 00:00:47,933 and pros and cons of this travel option. 15 00:00:48,000 --> 00:00:51,733 Sailing from Barcelona to Athens with stops all along the way, 16 00:00:51,800 --> 00:00:53,633 I'll toggle from a floating resort 17 00:00:53,700 --> 00:00:55,500 to exciting days on shore, 18 00:00:55,566 --> 00:00:59,366 nearly each day in a different country. 19 00:00:59,433 --> 00:01:02,433 Massive cruise ships serve as both transportation 20 00:01:02,500 --> 00:01:04,766 and a floating hotel. 21 00:01:04,833 --> 00:01:07,433 From our ship, we'll visit some of the great ports 22 00:01:07,500 --> 00:01:08,766 of the Mediterranean 23 00:01:08,833 --> 00:01:12,966 and venture inland to some of Europe's iconic sights. 24 00:01:13,033 --> 00:01:15,966 We'll savor romantic island getaways 25 00:01:16,033 --> 00:01:18,766 and some lazy time on the beach. 26 00:01:18,833 --> 00:01:22,066 We'll learn how to make the most of the cruising experience -- 27 00:01:22,133 --> 00:01:25,100 avoiding lines, eating quick but local -- 28 00:01:25,166 --> 00:01:27,200 while exercising independence 29 00:01:27,266 --> 00:01:30,400 to get the most out of limited time on shore. 30 00:01:30,466 --> 00:01:32,400 Along with the efficiencies of cruising, 31 00:01:32,466 --> 00:01:34,266 we'll show the downsides -- 32 00:01:34,333 --> 00:01:36,766 the inevitable congestion and commercialization 33 00:01:36,833 --> 00:01:39,966 that comes with mass tourism. 34 00:01:40,033 --> 00:01:42,400 And as we sail from port to port, 35 00:01:42,466 --> 00:01:44,733 we'll enjoy our time on board the ship -- 36 00:01:44,800 --> 00:01:47,700 a virtual playground at sea. 37 00:01:47,766 --> 00:01:50,766 The Mediterranean Sea is bounded by North Africa, 38 00:01:50,833 --> 00:01:52,966 Europe, and the Middle East. 39 00:01:53,033 --> 00:01:56,800 The typical cruise itinerary covers the great European ports. 40 00:01:56,866 --> 00:02:00,700 While most cruises focus on either the West or the East, 41 00:02:00,766 --> 00:02:02,633 we'll do a little of both. 42 00:02:02,700 --> 00:02:06,100 Stopping in Barcelona, Nice for the French Riviera, 43 00:02:06,166 --> 00:02:09,633 La Spezia for Florence, Civitavecchia for Rome, 44 00:02:09,700 --> 00:02:11,766 Naples, Malta, 45 00:02:11,833 --> 00:02:14,366 Athens, Mykonos, 46 00:02:14,433 --> 00:02:17,700 and Santorini. 47 00:02:17,766 --> 00:02:20,766 I'm not here to promote or put down cruising. 48 00:02:20,833 --> 00:02:22,666 For some people, it's a great choice. 49 00:02:22,733 --> 00:02:24,800 And for others it's not. 50 00:02:24,866 --> 00:02:27,633 Cruising can be economical, with your transportation, 51 00:02:27,700 --> 00:02:30,333 room, and meals all included at one price. 52 00:02:30,400 --> 00:02:33,200 It can be ideal for those who want everything taken care of 53 00:02:33,266 --> 00:02:34,466 for their vacation, 54 00:02:34,533 --> 00:02:36,933 and it can also be an efficient platform 55 00:02:37,000 --> 00:02:40,133 for independent types who want to shape their own adventures 56 00:02:40,200 --> 00:02:41,466 each day. 57 00:02:41,533 --> 00:02:44,166 While there may be a lot of things to enjoy on the ship, 58 00:02:44,233 --> 00:02:46,400 the reason I cruise the Mediterranean 59 00:02:46,466 --> 00:02:49,600 is to experience the Mediterranean. 60 00:02:49,666 --> 00:02:51,933 The Mediterranean world is filled with wonder 61 00:02:52,000 --> 00:02:55,266 and richly rewards the well-organized traveler. 62 00:02:55,333 --> 00:02:57,933 The cultural variety seems endless 63 00:02:58,000 --> 00:03:02,300 and it shows itself in traditions, cuisines, 64 00:03:02,366 --> 00:03:05,100 and a distinctive love of life. 65 00:03:05,166 --> 00:03:06,566 For thousands of years, 66 00:03:06,633 --> 00:03:10,233 this was the center of Western Civilization. 67 00:03:10,300 --> 00:03:11,900 Exploring the Mediterranean, 68 00:03:11,966 --> 00:03:14,633 you'll enjoy the sweep of art history -- 69 00:03:14,700 --> 00:03:17,433 from ancient treasures to the dazzling accomplishments 70 00:03:17,500 --> 00:03:21,866 of the Renaissance to modern wonders. 71 00:03:21,933 --> 00:03:24,466 And it's just flat-out beautiful. 72 00:03:24,533 --> 00:03:26,433 No wonder the rich and fabulous 73 00:03:26,500 --> 00:03:28,366 have built their palaces and villas here 74 00:03:28,433 --> 00:03:30,500 since ancient times. 75 00:03:32,266 --> 00:03:34,066 The cruiser's challenge is to decide 76 00:03:34,133 --> 00:03:37,500 how to best experience all these attractions. 77 00:03:39,666 --> 00:03:41,166 Your goal: to get the most out 78 00:03:41,233 --> 00:03:43,066 of your vacation time and money, 79 00:03:43,133 --> 00:03:44,866 enjoy the best experiences, 80 00:03:44,933 --> 00:03:46,933 and have fun. 81 00:03:47,000 --> 00:03:50,000 Before we sight-see the greatest hits of the Mediterranean, 82 00:03:50,066 --> 00:03:53,633 let's get an overview of cruising in general. 83 00:03:53,700 --> 00:03:55,700 Ships can be huge. 84 00:03:55,766 --> 00:03:59,633 Ours has about 3,000 passengers with 1,500 crew 85 00:03:59,700 --> 00:04:03,933 scrambling to keep everyone well-served, safe, and happy. 86 00:04:04,000 --> 00:04:06,833 Is it good travel? That's up to you. 87 00:04:06,900 --> 00:04:09,666 The way I see it, of the guests on this ship, 88 00:04:09,733 --> 00:04:11,566 a third of them are just looking for 89 00:04:11,633 --> 00:04:13,833 a floating alternative to Las Vegas. 90 00:04:13,900 --> 00:04:16,233 A third of them are "bucket list" tourists 91 00:04:16,300 --> 00:04:18,766 just checking things off their list, 92 00:04:18,833 --> 00:04:22,000 and a third of them are independent-minded travelers 93 00:04:22,066 --> 00:04:25,066 well-prepared and eager to hit the ground running 94 00:04:25,133 --> 00:04:28,200 as soon as that gangway hits the pier. 95 00:04:28,266 --> 00:04:31,500 Cruising originated as an activity for the wealthy -- 96 00:04:31,566 --> 00:04:34,100 it was expensive and formal. 97 00:04:34,166 --> 00:04:37,933 The joke was it was for "the newlyweds, over-fed, 98 00:04:38,000 --> 00:04:40,200 and nearly dead." 99 00:04:40,266 --> 00:04:42,400 But, as ships get bigger and bigger, 100 00:04:42,466 --> 00:04:45,766 able to offer comforts unimaginable in decades past, 101 00:04:45,833 --> 00:04:47,833 cruising has changed its image. 102 00:04:47,900 --> 00:04:50,433 Today, it's younger, more active, 103 00:04:50,500 --> 00:04:53,133 and more affordable. 104 00:04:53,200 --> 00:04:58,000 Most Mediterranean cruises start and end in Venice, Rome, 105 00:04:58,066 --> 00:04:59,700 or Barcelona. 106 00:04:59,766 --> 00:05:02,233 Wherever you start, you'll need to be patient. 107 00:05:02,300 --> 00:05:05,300 This is your first peek at the necessary efficiency 108 00:05:05,366 --> 00:05:06,900 of the cruise industry. 109 00:05:06,966 --> 00:05:10,400 It's a big logistical challenge to get several thousand people 110 00:05:10,466 --> 00:05:13,966 and their bags into their staterooms on the first day. 111 00:05:14,033 --> 00:05:15,600 Pack a little extra patience 112 00:05:15,666 --> 00:05:17,166 and leave yourself plenty of time 113 00:05:17,233 --> 00:05:19,800 for the red tape and orientation. 114 00:05:22,033 --> 00:05:25,633 Once on board, I do one thing right off the bat: 115 00:05:25,700 --> 00:05:27,566 move in thoroughly. 116 00:05:27,633 --> 00:05:30,533 Staterooms, while thoughtfully designed, are tight, 117 00:05:30,600 --> 00:05:32,666 so make things shipshape. 118 00:05:32,733 --> 00:05:35,233 If you use all your available storage space 119 00:05:35,300 --> 00:05:37,766 and are constantly on guard against clutter, 120 00:05:37,833 --> 00:05:39,500 there's plenty of room. 121 00:05:42,300 --> 00:05:44,666 I rarely use drawers in hotel rooms, 122 00:05:44,733 --> 00:05:48,433 but this is my home for my entire vacation. 123 00:05:48,500 --> 00:05:51,600 You just move in once, so do it right away, 124 00:05:51,666 --> 00:05:56,533 move in fully, and establish your ship-shape standards. 125 00:05:56,600 --> 00:05:59,333 On a cruise, you can get away with packing heavier. 126 00:05:59,400 --> 00:06:01,066 I bring more clothes than usual. 127 00:06:01,133 --> 00:06:02,666 How dressy you need to be 128 00:06:02,733 --> 00:06:04,333 is a matter of which cruise line you choose 129 00:06:04,400 --> 00:06:05,766 and your personal style. 130 00:06:05,833 --> 00:06:08,500 As cruising has become accessible to the middle class, 131 00:06:08,566 --> 00:06:10,800 it's also become more casual. 132 00:06:10,866 --> 00:06:13,200 This is as dressy as I get. 133 00:06:13,266 --> 00:06:15,900 Most people pack three kinds of outfits: 134 00:06:15,966 --> 00:06:17,866 smart casual for evenings, 135 00:06:17,933 --> 00:06:21,733 leisure wear for poolside and relaxing on the ship, 136 00:06:21,800 --> 00:06:26,000 and practical travel clothing for time on shore. 137 00:06:26,066 --> 00:06:29,166 Okay, I've moved in and we're on our way. 138 00:06:29,233 --> 00:06:31,700 We'll be in the French Riviera in the morning. 139 00:06:31,766 --> 00:06:34,800 We're settling into the rhythm of a Mediterranean cruise -- 140 00:06:34,866 --> 00:06:38,500 sail at night and explore a different port each day. 141 00:06:38,566 --> 00:06:42,200 By the way, have some fun with the key nautical terms. 142 00:06:42,266 --> 00:06:45,033 I'm standing near the front -- that's the bow. 143 00:06:45,100 --> 00:06:46,566 The back? It's the stern. 144 00:06:46,633 --> 00:06:49,400 Left: port, and right is starboard. 145 00:06:49,466 --> 00:06:51,266 And remember, it's not a "boat," 146 00:06:51,333 --> 00:06:52,933 it's a "ship." 147 00:06:53,000 --> 00:06:57,600 For me, just "being at sea" is a travel destination. 148 00:06:57,666 --> 00:07:00,400 After our first departure, or "sail-away," 149 00:07:00,466 --> 00:07:02,966 I find myself thinking of the Mediterranean 150 00:07:03,033 --> 00:07:05,300 as a sight in itself. 151 00:07:05,366 --> 00:07:06,933 Make a point on departure day 152 00:07:07,000 --> 00:07:09,066 to get to know your floating home. 153 00:07:09,133 --> 00:07:12,633 Take advantage of the signage to understand the layout. 154 00:07:12,700 --> 00:07:15,266 Modern ships are smartly designed. 155 00:07:15,333 --> 00:07:19,066 This ship has 1,500 staterooms on 12 decks 156 00:07:19,133 --> 00:07:22,133 gathered around a central atrium 157 00:07:22,200 --> 00:07:26,500 where you'll find places to shop, hang out, eat, and drink. 158 00:07:26,566 --> 00:07:29,300 ♪♪ 159 00:07:29,366 --> 00:07:32,533 Explore the ship on a good orientation walk. 160 00:07:32,600 --> 00:07:36,166 The library is generally quiet and empty. 161 00:07:36,233 --> 00:07:39,100 The gym comes with amazing views. 162 00:07:39,166 --> 00:07:41,766 You'll discover places -- like tucked-away lounges -- 163 00:07:41,833 --> 00:07:44,433 that others may miss. 164 00:07:44,500 --> 00:07:46,066 In this floating resort, 165 00:07:46,133 --> 00:07:48,100 the top deck -- with its swimming pool -- 166 00:07:48,166 --> 00:07:49,966 is the equivalent of the beach. 167 00:07:50,033 --> 00:07:52,133 When it comes to fun-in-the-sun, 168 00:07:52,200 --> 00:07:55,400 poolside seems to be the center of the universe. 169 00:07:55,466 --> 00:07:58,033 But if you crave the tranquility of a park, 170 00:07:58,100 --> 00:08:00,766 this ship has actual grass. 171 00:08:00,833 --> 00:08:02,966 I don't know what happened to shuffleboard, 172 00:08:03,033 --> 00:08:05,600 but a little bocce ball will do just fine. 173 00:08:05,666 --> 00:08:08,066 Each morning, the deck is busy with walkers -- 174 00:08:08,133 --> 00:08:10,766 eight laps and it's a mile. 175 00:08:10,833 --> 00:08:14,500 Being confined on a ship, it's important to stay active. 176 00:08:14,566 --> 00:08:17,366 I make a pact: anticipating lots of eating, 177 00:08:17,433 --> 00:08:21,966 I shall avoid the elevators and use the stairs instead. 178 00:08:24,000 --> 00:08:26,966 They say the average cruise passenger gains a pound a day, 179 00:08:27,033 --> 00:08:30,600 but not me. 180 00:08:30,666 --> 00:08:32,800 Cruising can work well for families 181 00:08:32,866 --> 00:08:34,866 and for groups traveling together. 182 00:08:34,933 --> 00:08:38,033 Each person can pick and choose how much to see and do 183 00:08:38,100 --> 00:08:39,933 both on land and at sea, 184 00:08:40,000 --> 00:08:44,500 and still get together for dinner every evening. 185 00:08:44,566 --> 00:08:47,500 And cruising also works for people who can't walk well 186 00:08:47,566 --> 00:08:49,666 or who are less active -- 187 00:08:49,733 --> 00:08:55,000 the entire ship is as accessible as any modern resort. 188 00:08:55,066 --> 00:08:58,500 Along with the advantages, cruising has its downsides. 189 00:08:58,566 --> 00:09:01,633 Many would say it can insulate you from the "real Europe." 190 00:09:01,700 --> 00:09:03,766 You're going to the most famous places 191 00:09:03,833 --> 00:09:05,033 and seeing them at the same time 192 00:09:05,100 --> 00:09:06,666 with thousands of other tourists. 193 00:09:06,733 --> 00:09:08,766 That's just the nature of cruising. 194 00:09:08,833 --> 00:09:13,000 Those who don't make a concerted effort at minimizing the crowds 195 00:09:13,066 --> 00:09:15,633 may come home with memories of congestion 196 00:09:15,700 --> 00:09:17,833 and lots of wasted time. 197 00:09:17,900 --> 00:09:21,466 Cruise ships drop large numbers of people in the same place 198 00:09:21,533 --> 00:09:23,366 at the same time. 199 00:09:23,433 --> 00:09:26,133 Small ports can be overwhelmed by crowds 200 00:09:26,200 --> 00:09:27,533 when the ship's in port, 201 00:09:27,600 --> 00:09:31,166 even worse when several ships are there on the same day. 202 00:09:31,233 --> 00:09:33,266 And then, when the ships sail away, 203 00:09:33,333 --> 00:09:37,333 the port suddenly becomes less crowded and more romantic -- 204 00:09:37,400 --> 00:09:39,800 something cruisers won't experience 205 00:09:39,866 --> 00:09:43,100 because they're back on the ship heading to the next port. 206 00:09:43,166 --> 00:09:47,000 Many cruisers are not very energetic sightseers. 207 00:09:47,066 --> 00:09:49,566 If you are, get out early as possible 208 00:09:49,633 --> 00:09:51,133 and come back late as you can. 209 00:09:51,200 --> 00:09:53,433 Doing this, you'll enjoy fewer crowds 210 00:09:53,500 --> 00:09:57,600 and more unforgettable moments. 211 00:09:57,666 --> 00:10:00,200 With each port, you've got sightseeing options: 212 00:10:00,266 --> 00:10:01,866 You can take the organized bus tour 213 00:10:01,933 --> 00:10:03,000 and be on their time table, 214 00:10:03,066 --> 00:10:05,633 or you can hire a private guide. 215 00:10:05,700 --> 00:10:07,666 You can use a guidebook and be your own guide, 216 00:10:07,733 --> 00:10:10,900 or you can just hang out and be thoroughly on vacation. 217 00:10:10,966 --> 00:10:12,033 There's no right or wrong -- 218 00:10:12,100 --> 00:10:15,566 it depends on your mood and your style. 219 00:10:15,633 --> 00:10:16,866 Many cruise travelers 220 00:10:16,933 --> 00:10:19,933 invest in the cruise line's shore excursions. 221 00:10:20,000 --> 00:10:22,900 Excursions can be active or easy, 222 00:10:22,966 --> 00:10:25,000 fully guided, 223 00:10:25,066 --> 00:10:27,933 or just providing transportation and free time. 224 00:10:28,000 --> 00:10:29,566 While pricey, 225 00:10:29,633 --> 00:10:31,900 they can also be a time- and cost-effective way 226 00:10:31,966 --> 00:10:36,066 to cover those must-see sights and experiences. 227 00:10:36,133 --> 00:10:38,200 And there's usually a bus tour option 228 00:10:38,266 --> 00:10:40,666 designed for people with limited mobility. 229 00:10:40,733 --> 00:10:43,900 But as these tours target the touristy clichés 230 00:10:43,966 --> 00:10:46,900 and many buses hit the same sites at the same time, 231 00:10:46,966 --> 00:10:50,466 you'll often be right in the thick of the crowds. 232 00:10:50,533 --> 00:10:53,233 If you're not purchasing the cruise ship sightseeing package, 233 00:10:53,300 --> 00:10:55,666 you've got an array of fine alternatives. 234 00:10:55,733 --> 00:10:57,900 Mediterranean ports seem to be designed 235 00:10:57,966 --> 00:11:00,800 as springboards for independent travelers. 236 00:11:00,866 --> 00:11:04,433 In most port terminals, you'll find reputable local companies 237 00:11:04,500 --> 00:11:07,300 offering essentially the same tours as the cruise lines 238 00:11:07,366 --> 00:11:09,500 for a fraction of the cost. 239 00:11:09,566 --> 00:11:13,266 Another option: book a private guide in advance. 240 00:11:13,333 --> 00:11:15,366 It's a comfort to be met at the port 241 00:11:15,433 --> 00:11:17,400 with a warm, personal welcome. 242 00:11:17,466 --> 00:11:19,766 Legions of private guides earn their living 243 00:11:19,833 --> 00:11:21,566 serving cruisers directly. 244 00:11:21,633 --> 00:11:24,100 You can book a guide and share the cost -- 245 00:11:24,166 --> 00:11:26,100 four people hiring a guide with a car 246 00:11:26,166 --> 00:11:27,433 costs about the same 247 00:11:27,500 --> 00:11:30,400 as four people taking the cruise excursion. 248 00:11:30,466 --> 00:11:33,533 And with a guide, you get your own private teacher, 249 00:11:35,366 --> 00:11:38,366 you're sure to know the way to the summit, 250 00:11:38,433 --> 00:11:42,800 and you enjoy the freedom to go at your own pace. 251 00:11:42,866 --> 00:11:45,600 And you can simply be your own guide. 252 00:11:45,666 --> 00:11:47,966 You'll find helpful tourist offices. 253 00:11:48,033 --> 00:11:51,833 And, most ports are well-served by public transit. 254 00:11:51,900 --> 00:11:54,600 Independent types and those on a tight budget 255 00:11:54,666 --> 00:11:56,466 can use a guidebook. 256 00:11:56,533 --> 00:11:58,133 There are handy guidebooks 257 00:11:58,200 --> 00:12:01,100 designed to help you get the most out of your time in port. 258 00:12:01,166 --> 00:12:03,566 And, taking advantage of apps 259 00:12:03,633 --> 00:12:06,000 featuring self-guided walks on your smartphone 260 00:12:06,066 --> 00:12:08,233 empowers the independent traveler 261 00:12:08,300 --> 00:12:10,900 with plenty of good touring information. 262 00:12:10,966 --> 00:12:12,600 In many big cities, 263 00:12:12,666 --> 00:12:15,800 hop-on, hop-off companies offer do-it-yourselfers 264 00:12:15,866 --> 00:12:18,633 economic and efficient transportation. 265 00:12:18,700 --> 00:12:20,866 Buses meet the cruise ships at the port 266 00:12:20,933 --> 00:12:23,866 and offer big loop tours connecting major sights, 267 00:12:23,933 --> 00:12:26,833 letting you hop off and on all day long, 268 00:12:26,900 --> 00:12:28,833 and dropping you back at the port. 269 00:12:31,833 --> 00:12:34,300 And finally, you're on vacation. 270 00:12:34,366 --> 00:12:37,433 You have the option to do nothing. 271 00:12:37,500 --> 00:12:40,733 Anyone can simply walk or catch a ride in to the town center 272 00:12:40,800 --> 00:12:43,100 and just delight in a free day -- 273 00:12:43,166 --> 00:12:46,100 shopping, browsing, sipping a local drink, 274 00:12:46,166 --> 00:12:48,933 or soaking up some sun on the beach. 275 00:12:49,000 --> 00:12:53,700 ♪♪ 276 00:12:53,766 --> 00:12:55,133 [ Laughter ] 277 00:12:55,200 --> 00:12:56,733 Because ships sail at night, 278 00:12:56,800 --> 00:12:59,400 you rarely enjoy a characteristic dinner on shore 279 00:12:59,466 --> 00:13:01,633 or the romance of a town after dark. 280 00:13:01,700 --> 00:13:03,433 Having said that, I enjoy the evenings 281 00:13:03,500 --> 00:13:05,666 on the ship -- hanging out with new friends 282 00:13:05,733 --> 00:13:08,500 and thinking about tomorrow's destination. 283 00:13:08,566 --> 00:13:11,200 So, tomorrow, it's the French Riviera. 284 00:13:11,266 --> 00:13:13,600 The cruise line sells a selection of excursions 285 00:13:13,666 --> 00:13:15,300 for every port. 286 00:13:15,366 --> 00:13:17,266 Early on, it's good to review what's offered, 287 00:13:17,333 --> 00:13:19,866 decide which tours -- if any -- are right for you, 288 00:13:19,933 --> 00:13:21,233 and book them. 289 00:13:21,300 --> 00:13:23,666 The excursion desk is dedicated to explaining 290 00:13:23,733 --> 00:13:27,466 and selling the many onshore tours and activities. 291 00:13:27,533 --> 00:13:28,666 For the eager students, 292 00:13:28,733 --> 00:13:31,000 some ships offer a talk each evening 293 00:13:31,066 --> 00:13:33,333 to preview the next day's sightseeing options 294 00:13:33,400 --> 00:13:36,233 and to promote their tours. -Our mission -- 295 00:13:36,300 --> 00:13:39,933 that you enjoy every port of call to the maximum. Yes? 296 00:13:40,000 --> 00:13:44,533 -Arriving at our first port, with its blue or azure waters, 297 00:13:44,600 --> 00:13:49,400 it's clear why France's Riviera is nicknamed the Cote d'Azur. 298 00:13:49,466 --> 00:13:52,266 Cruise ships stop in one of three ports -- 299 00:13:52,333 --> 00:13:54,166 Nice... 300 00:13:54,233 --> 00:13:56,066 Monaco... 301 00:13:56,133 --> 00:13:59,400 or Villefranche. 302 00:13:59,466 --> 00:14:01,700 Each is a delight to explore, 303 00:14:01,766 --> 00:14:03,733 a short ride apart by train -- 304 00:14:03,800 --> 00:14:07,466 and today, we'll see them all. 305 00:14:07,533 --> 00:14:09,433 Villefranche has a fine harbor, 306 00:14:09,500 --> 00:14:12,333 but it doesn't have a dock big enough for a cruise ship. 307 00:14:12,400 --> 00:14:15,200 So, we're dropping the hook and getting ashore 308 00:14:15,266 --> 00:14:17,566 in a small boat called a "tender." 309 00:14:17,633 --> 00:14:24,366 ♪♪ 310 00:14:24,433 --> 00:14:26,300 Be sure you understand exactly what time 311 00:14:26,366 --> 00:14:28,433 the last tender shuttles back to the ship. 312 00:14:28,500 --> 00:14:30,966 Today, it's 4:30. 313 00:14:31,033 --> 00:14:34,400 The French Riviera lends itself to independent touring. 314 00:14:34,466 --> 00:14:35,733 I love Villefranche, 315 00:14:35,800 --> 00:14:37,800 but to be sure we don't miss our ship, 316 00:14:37,866 --> 00:14:40,966 we'll enjoy this port at the end of the day. 317 00:14:41,033 --> 00:14:42,500 While the ship's information desk 318 00:14:42,566 --> 00:14:45,400 is designed to sell the cruise line's shore excursions, 319 00:14:45,466 --> 00:14:47,700 tourist offices on shore are a service 320 00:14:47,766 --> 00:14:51,166 designed to help independent travelers. 321 00:14:51,233 --> 00:14:53,466 Okay, I've got maps for each town 322 00:14:53,533 --> 00:14:55,000 and a train schedule -- 323 00:14:55,066 --> 00:14:57,966 there's one leaving in 10 minutes. 324 00:14:58,033 --> 00:15:00,666 Trains along the Riviera leave a couple times an hour. 325 00:15:00,733 --> 00:15:02,766 And towns here are about 20 minutes apart. 326 00:15:02,833 --> 00:15:05,133 Today we'll enjoy a couple hours in Nice, 327 00:15:05,200 --> 00:15:06,600 a couple hours in Monte Carlo, 328 00:15:06,666 --> 00:15:09,333 and then run out the clock back here in Villefranche. 329 00:15:09,400 --> 00:15:12,133 We're starting in Nice while the market's still lively. 330 00:15:14,200 --> 00:15:16,366 The well-organized traveler can do a lot 331 00:15:16,433 --> 00:15:18,166 during an eight-hour stop. 332 00:15:18,233 --> 00:15:20,966 Using a good guidebook and public transportation, 333 00:15:21,033 --> 00:15:23,866 exploring the French Riviera is a snap. 334 00:15:23,933 --> 00:15:27,166 It's fun and economical to take advantage of public transit 335 00:15:27,233 --> 00:15:28,966 in the bigger cities. 336 00:15:29,033 --> 00:15:30,600 Nice has a single tramline 337 00:15:30,666 --> 00:15:32,600 that glides from the train station 338 00:15:32,666 --> 00:15:34,766 right to the old center. 339 00:15:34,833 --> 00:15:36,900 This is pure France. 340 00:15:36,966 --> 00:15:40,033 As I like to say, Nice is nice, 341 00:15:40,100 --> 00:15:42,733 and the market is thriving. 342 00:15:42,800 --> 00:15:43,933 Une socca, s'il vous plaît. 343 00:15:44,000 --> 00:15:45,866 Here, you can savor the distinct flavor 344 00:15:45,933 --> 00:15:48,133 of this southeastern corner of France. 345 00:15:48,200 --> 00:15:51,133 -Beautiful. Socca, the local chickpea bread, 346 00:15:51,200 --> 00:15:53,500 is delicious hot off the griddle 347 00:15:53,566 --> 00:15:57,233 and just right for a bite on the go. 348 00:15:57,300 --> 00:15:58,333 -Thank you very much. 349 00:15:58,400 --> 00:16:00,700 -Thank you. -Merci bien. Au revoir. 350 00:16:00,766 --> 00:16:04,266 Mediterranean towns make their promenades people-friendly 351 00:16:04,333 --> 00:16:08,633 and Nice's Promenade des Anglais is a fine example. 352 00:16:08,700 --> 00:16:11,300 While I could rent a bike, a lazy stroll 353 00:16:11,366 --> 00:16:14,566 and some beach time feels just about right. 354 00:16:14,633 --> 00:16:17,166 I'll be on the train to Monaco or Monte Carlo 355 00:16:17,233 --> 00:16:18,266 in about an hour, 356 00:16:18,333 --> 00:16:19,866 but right now? 357 00:16:19,933 --> 00:16:22,733 Ohh, yeah. 358 00:16:22,800 --> 00:16:25,966 Back on the train, I'm enjoying my independence, 359 00:16:26,033 --> 00:16:31,600 my baguette avec fromage , and amazing Riviera scenery. 360 00:16:31,666 --> 00:16:33,966 In half an hour, we'll be in Monaco. 361 00:16:34,033 --> 00:16:37,366 It's a tiny country about the size of Manhattan. 362 00:16:37,433 --> 00:16:40,266 Monaco is dominated by its harbor, 363 00:16:40,333 --> 00:16:42,666 and its harbor is filled with the massive yachts 364 00:16:42,733 --> 00:16:45,966 of massively wealthy tycoons. 365 00:16:46,033 --> 00:16:48,000 The city is small enough that you can walk 366 00:16:48,066 --> 00:16:50,933 to all of its main sights in a couple of hours. 367 00:16:51,000 --> 00:16:53,933 I have time for two stops: the famous casino -- 368 00:16:54,000 --> 00:16:57,166 imagine all the fortunes won and lost here, 369 00:16:57,233 --> 00:16:58,766 mostly lost -- 370 00:16:58,833 --> 00:17:01,266 and the cute little royal palace. 371 00:17:01,333 --> 00:17:04,666 We're here just in time for the changing of the guard. 372 00:17:04,733 --> 00:17:07,666 [ Band playing ] 373 00:17:10,300 --> 00:17:15,566 And a visit to the palace is capped with a commanding view. 374 00:17:15,633 --> 00:17:18,100 Riding the train back to our port, Villefranche, 375 00:17:18,166 --> 00:17:21,733 it's comforting to see our ship at anchor. 376 00:17:21,800 --> 00:17:25,966 The sleepy town of Villefranche feels made for relaxation. 377 00:17:26,033 --> 00:17:28,300 The beach is inviting. 378 00:17:30,833 --> 00:17:32,866 And the harbor-front is the perfect place 379 00:17:32,933 --> 00:17:35,966 to enjoy a final drink on the Riviera. 380 00:17:38,400 --> 00:17:41,566 We've got 45 minutes before the last tender back to our ship. 381 00:17:41,633 --> 00:17:43,533 There's no way we're going to miss our connection, 382 00:17:43,600 --> 00:17:47,233 and that means plenty of time to enjoy a relaxing pastis. 383 00:17:47,300 --> 00:17:49,233 We've caught the last tender. 384 00:17:49,300 --> 00:17:52,000 Security on board is taken very seriously 385 00:17:52,066 --> 00:17:53,966 and it's efficiently organized. 386 00:17:54,033 --> 00:17:56,600 Because everyone swipes in and out 387 00:17:56,666 --> 00:17:57,966 with their identity cards, 388 00:17:58,033 --> 00:17:59,500 at any given moment, 389 00:17:59,566 --> 00:18:01,733 the staff knows exactly who's on the ship 390 00:18:01,800 --> 00:18:03,833 and who's still on shore. 391 00:18:07,233 --> 00:18:10,400 With everyone back on board, it's time to haul anchor 392 00:18:10,466 --> 00:18:12,000 and sail away. 393 00:18:12,066 --> 00:18:14,433 This is one of the pleasures of cruising. 394 00:18:14,500 --> 00:18:16,100 Until you get to the next port, 395 00:18:16,166 --> 00:18:19,533 you're free to relax any way you want. 396 00:18:19,600 --> 00:18:21,700 You can read a book on deck, 397 00:18:21,766 --> 00:18:23,933 head to the spa, 398 00:18:24,000 --> 00:18:25,733 exercise, 399 00:18:25,800 --> 00:18:29,500 or enjoy one of the numerous bars all over the ship. 400 00:18:32,466 --> 00:18:33,933 I'm into the rhythm now. 401 00:18:34,000 --> 00:18:36,900 After a full day of sightseeing, I'm ready to relax: 402 00:18:36,966 --> 00:18:39,233 stowed my wallet in the room, got comfortable, 403 00:18:39,300 --> 00:18:40,666 and I'm looking forward to dinner 404 00:18:40,733 --> 00:18:42,233 and an evening at sea. 405 00:18:42,300 --> 00:18:44,733 By the way, even with so many people on board, 406 00:18:44,800 --> 00:18:47,500 I'm impressed by how it rarely feels crowded. 407 00:18:47,566 --> 00:18:49,933 If you want quiet, you can find it. 408 00:18:50,000 --> 00:18:51,933 Do you have kids? -Mm-hmm. One son. 409 00:18:52,000 --> 00:18:53,933 -One son. How old is he? -34. 410 00:18:54,000 --> 00:18:56,466 -See, my son is 30. -30! 411 00:18:56,533 --> 00:18:57,900 -Can you believe you've got a 34-year-old son? 412 00:18:57,966 --> 00:18:59,633 -No way. [ Laughter ] 413 00:18:59,700 --> 00:19:01,600 -If you're in the mood to socialize, 414 00:19:01,666 --> 00:19:03,766 you can enjoy an impromptu balcony party 415 00:19:03,833 --> 00:19:05,500 with friends you've made on board. 416 00:19:05,566 --> 00:19:09,000 And if you want more action, there is always lots going on. 417 00:19:09,066 --> 00:19:10,700 [ Lively music plays ] 418 00:19:10,766 --> 00:19:14,400 It seems any excuse for a party is good enough. 419 00:19:14,466 --> 00:19:15,600 Full moon tonight -- 420 00:19:15,666 --> 00:19:18,266 yep, it's the full moon party. 421 00:19:18,333 --> 00:19:20,333 ♪♪ 422 00:19:20,400 --> 00:19:21,966 One thing I like about cruising 423 00:19:22,033 --> 00:19:24,233 is how easy it is to meet people. 424 00:19:24,300 --> 00:19:26,533 ♪♪ 425 00:19:26,600 --> 00:19:28,633 People who are young at heart. 426 00:19:28,700 --> 00:19:34,566 ♪♪ 427 00:19:34,633 --> 00:19:40,600 ♪♪ 428 00:19:43,400 --> 00:19:46,866 Many major cruise destinations are actually landlocked 429 00:19:46,933 --> 00:19:48,100 and far from the sea. 430 00:19:48,166 --> 00:19:50,433 For example, Florence. 431 00:19:50,500 --> 00:19:53,533 Our ship docks in La Spezia, a couple hours away 432 00:19:53,600 --> 00:19:55,266 by bus or train. 433 00:19:55,333 --> 00:19:58,266 Like in many cruise ports, we arrive in a gritty world of 434 00:19:58,333 --> 00:20:01,333 shipping containers and cranes. 435 00:20:01,400 --> 00:20:04,400 And from this springboard, lots of eager travelers 436 00:20:04,466 --> 00:20:09,300 are up and out early to catch their tour buses. 437 00:20:09,366 --> 00:20:10,800 Like thousands of other travelers, 438 00:20:10,866 --> 00:20:12,400 today we're heading into Florence -- 439 00:20:12,466 --> 00:20:14,633 and most of us have the same great sights in mind: 440 00:20:14,700 --> 00:20:18,266 Michelangelo's David and the Uffizi Gallery. 441 00:20:18,333 --> 00:20:20,400 Taking the cruise line's tour, 442 00:20:20,466 --> 00:20:24,500 I know I'll get a quick blitz of the great sights of Florence. 443 00:20:24,566 --> 00:20:26,566 The tour includes transportation, 444 00:20:26,633 --> 00:20:29,066 reservations for the big attractions, 445 00:20:29,133 --> 00:20:30,633 a professional guide, 446 00:20:30,700 --> 00:20:31,800 and the assurance that 447 00:20:31,866 --> 00:20:35,366 we'll make it back to the ship on time. 448 00:20:35,433 --> 00:20:38,533 Florence is one of those places everybody wants to see, 449 00:20:38,600 --> 00:20:42,433 and almost everybody wants to see the same sights. 450 00:20:42,500 --> 00:20:44,266 You won't be alone. 451 00:20:44,333 --> 00:20:46,000 While those without reservations 452 00:20:46,066 --> 00:20:49,066 will waste lots of precious time in lines, 453 00:20:49,133 --> 00:20:51,200 with a tour, you'll be more efficient -- 454 00:20:51,266 --> 00:20:55,100 certain to see the glories of the Florentine Renaissance: 455 00:20:55,166 --> 00:20:57,766 Brunelleschi's magnificent dome... 456 00:20:57,833 --> 00:20:59,966 Botticelli's Birth of Venus ... 457 00:21:00,033 --> 00:21:02,833 and Michelangelo's David . 458 00:21:02,900 --> 00:21:07,833 ♪♪ 459 00:21:07,900 --> 00:21:09,833 As we make our way toward Rome, 460 00:21:09,900 --> 00:21:12,400 let's consider how to stay within your budget 461 00:21:12,466 --> 00:21:14,300 while on the ship. 462 00:21:14,366 --> 00:21:16,066 Cruise ships are businesses. 463 00:21:16,133 --> 00:21:17,466 They need to make money, 464 00:21:17,533 --> 00:21:19,900 and there's not much profit in the base cost of a trip. 465 00:21:19,966 --> 00:21:23,000 So they need to make more money from land excursions 466 00:21:23,066 --> 00:21:24,966 and from extras you buy while on board -- 467 00:21:25,033 --> 00:21:27,033 things like gambling, photography, 468 00:21:27,100 --> 00:21:28,433 shopping, and alcohol. 469 00:21:28,500 --> 00:21:29,766 As smart consumers, 470 00:21:29,833 --> 00:21:32,300 it's important to understand the game plan. 471 00:21:32,366 --> 00:21:35,700 It's possible, technically, to do the entire cruise 472 00:21:35,766 --> 00:21:38,133 with no extra expenses on board, 473 00:21:38,200 --> 00:21:40,533 but extras are enticing. 474 00:21:40,600 --> 00:21:42,233 They're cleverly sold, 475 00:21:42,300 --> 00:21:46,166 and your purchases can really add up. 476 00:21:46,233 --> 00:21:48,833 It's a cashless world on the ship. 477 00:21:48,900 --> 00:21:51,066 Along with getting you into your stateroom, 478 00:21:51,133 --> 00:21:54,266 your handy ID card is how you buy things. 479 00:21:57,733 --> 00:21:59,866 Onboard, there's lots of temptations, 480 00:21:59,933 --> 00:22:02,566 and purchases feel painless -- like it's almost free... 481 00:22:02,633 --> 00:22:06,966 until you check out and get the grand total for your final bill. 482 00:22:07,033 --> 00:22:12,566 Our next port serves Rome, another inland city. 483 00:22:12,633 --> 00:22:14,300 Like for Florence, the ship docks 484 00:22:14,366 --> 00:22:16,866 in an industrial container port. 485 00:22:16,933 --> 00:22:18,466 Here, in Civitavecchia, 486 00:22:18,533 --> 00:22:20,166 the cruise line provides a shuttle bus 487 00:22:20,233 --> 00:22:21,533 to the end of the port 488 00:22:21,600 --> 00:22:24,733 from where we sort through our transportation options. 489 00:22:24,800 --> 00:22:29,466 In this case, most independent cruisers just hop on the train. 490 00:22:29,533 --> 00:22:31,633 Within an hour, we're in Rome. 491 00:22:34,200 --> 00:22:36,866 While Rome may be "The Eternal City," 492 00:22:36,933 --> 00:22:40,366 our cruise schedule gives it just a single day. 493 00:22:40,433 --> 00:22:43,766 You'll need to be smart and selective. 494 00:22:43,833 --> 00:22:46,533 Do it with a thoughtful plan -- with reservations 495 00:22:46,600 --> 00:22:50,833 or a guided tour to minimize your time in lines. 496 00:22:50,900 --> 00:22:54,000 Rome has two main sightseeing zones. 497 00:22:54,066 --> 00:22:57,766 The ancient city includes the awe-inspiring Colosseum, 498 00:22:57,833 --> 00:23:00,900 the Forum with the magnificence of the empire apparent 499 00:23:00,966 --> 00:23:02,566 even in its ruins, 500 00:23:02,633 --> 00:23:05,733 and the glorious Pantheon. 501 00:23:05,800 --> 00:23:09,033 Amazingly preserved, this building gives us a sense 502 00:23:09,100 --> 00:23:13,333 of the splendor of ancient Rome better than any other. 503 00:23:13,400 --> 00:23:16,733 And across the Tiber River stands Vatican City 504 00:23:16,800 --> 00:23:19,833 with the towering St. Peter's Basilica, 505 00:23:19,900 --> 00:23:23,233 the exhilarating treasures of the Vatican Museum, 506 00:23:23,300 --> 00:23:27,166 and Michelangelo's beloved Sistine Chapel. 507 00:23:27,233 --> 00:23:32,766 ♪♪ 508 00:23:32,833 --> 00:23:38,366 ♪♪ 509 00:23:38,433 --> 00:23:39,966 -Welcome to the tour. 510 00:23:40,033 --> 00:23:43,200 We're going to head down the main corridor right over here. 511 00:23:43,266 --> 00:23:45,966 So, everyone, follow me. -Back on board, we got tickets 512 00:23:46,033 --> 00:23:49,633 for a behind-the-scenes tour of our ship. 513 00:23:49,700 --> 00:23:51,533 Modern cruise ships are engineering 514 00:23:51,600 --> 00:23:53,900 and technical marvels. 515 00:23:53,966 --> 00:23:56,600 We start on the bridge, where the captain and his crew 516 00:23:56,666 --> 00:23:58,433 enjoy the ultimate vantage point 517 00:23:58,500 --> 00:24:00,433 and state-of-the-art navigational tools 518 00:24:00,500 --> 00:24:03,133 to be sure we're on track. 519 00:24:03,200 --> 00:24:05,566 In the control room, we learn how the ship 520 00:24:05,633 --> 00:24:08,066 is like a sophisticated organism -- 521 00:24:08,133 --> 00:24:10,766 making its own fresh water from the sea, 522 00:24:10,833 --> 00:24:13,633 monitoring its vast power, 523 00:24:13,700 --> 00:24:18,033 and making sure all systems are go. 524 00:24:18,100 --> 00:24:20,433 Passing through the living quarters of the crew, 525 00:24:20,500 --> 00:24:23,666 we're reminded that 1,500 hard-working people 526 00:24:23,733 --> 00:24:25,433 live in a parallel world 527 00:24:25,500 --> 00:24:28,333 under the care-free vacation decks above. 528 00:24:28,400 --> 00:24:30,866 -All the fruit that we have here is coming from Italy, 529 00:24:30,933 --> 00:24:32,466 from Poland, and from Spain. 530 00:24:32,533 --> 00:24:35,533 -The officer in charge of the ship's inventory of food 531 00:24:35,600 --> 00:24:37,266 explains how the produce necessary 532 00:24:37,333 --> 00:24:41,733 to feed thousands of people is managed. 533 00:24:41,800 --> 00:24:45,000 And we finish our tour with a look at the bustling 534 00:24:45,066 --> 00:24:47,800 and well-coordinated kitchen, or galley. 535 00:24:51,933 --> 00:24:54,133 Our next stop is Naples. 536 00:24:54,200 --> 00:24:56,033 I love coming into port. 537 00:24:56,100 --> 00:24:59,200 If you're up early, you can enjoy the approach: 538 00:24:59,266 --> 00:25:02,233 sunrise over Mount Vesuvius. 539 00:25:02,300 --> 00:25:05,133 And here comes one of Europe's most intense 540 00:25:05,200 --> 00:25:07,633 yet rewarding cities. 541 00:25:07,700 --> 00:25:12,266 Here in Naples, the cruise terminal is right down town. 542 00:25:12,333 --> 00:25:15,100 Along with the conventional cruise line tour buses, 543 00:25:15,166 --> 00:25:20,233 you'll find budget alternatives for do-it-yourself travelers. 544 00:25:20,300 --> 00:25:23,900 In ports like Naples, the scene can feel aggressive. 545 00:25:23,966 --> 00:25:25,833 Stepping through the port security gate, 546 00:25:25,900 --> 00:25:27,800 you may find yourself in an assertive 547 00:25:27,866 --> 00:25:32,566 scrum of cabbies and tour guides eager to take you for a ride. 548 00:25:32,633 --> 00:25:34,600 While we could make a deal here on the spot 549 00:25:34,666 --> 00:25:36,366 for our sightseeing needs, 550 00:25:36,433 --> 00:25:39,033 I've made arrangements in advance. 551 00:25:42,233 --> 00:25:44,400 If you're leaving the ship as an independent traveler, 552 00:25:44,466 --> 00:25:48,500 remember: cruise ports attract hustlers and con-artists -- 553 00:25:48,566 --> 00:25:49,766 people looking to over-charge 554 00:25:49,833 --> 00:25:51,566 na ï ve tourists for their services. 555 00:25:51,633 --> 00:25:53,966 Look for fixed and regulated prices. 556 00:25:54,033 --> 00:25:56,266 Also, be smart about your valuables. 557 00:25:56,333 --> 00:25:58,400 I leave my passport on the ship. 558 00:25:58,466 --> 00:26:00,933 - Buongiorno ! - Buongiorno ! I am Rafael... 559 00:26:01,000 --> 00:26:05,333 Using my guidebook, I've booked a private tour guide with a car. 560 00:26:05,400 --> 00:26:08,133 In moments, we're zipping under Mount Vesuvius 561 00:26:08,200 --> 00:26:11,700 and heading for a quick look at Pompeii. 562 00:26:11,766 --> 00:26:13,600 While pricey for a solo traveler, 563 00:26:13,666 --> 00:26:14,933 we're beating the crowds 564 00:26:15,000 --> 00:26:16,866 and I've got the luxury of my own guide 565 00:26:16,933 --> 00:26:20,800 here at one of Europe's great ancient sights. 566 00:26:20,866 --> 00:26:22,733 It's amazing to think that Pompeii 567 00:26:22,800 --> 00:26:24,800 was a thriving Roman city 568 00:26:24,866 --> 00:26:29,300 and then, in AD 79, Mount Vesuvius blew its top, 569 00:26:29,366 --> 00:26:34,000 and the city was buried in a flood of hot ash and mud. 570 00:26:34,066 --> 00:26:37,100 The excavations give us a look at life in ancient Rome 571 00:26:37,166 --> 00:26:38,800 like none other. 572 00:26:38,866 --> 00:26:46,800 ♪♪ 573 00:26:46,866 --> 00:26:54,766 ♪♪ 574 00:26:54,833 --> 00:26:58,766 With my driver and guide, I'm nimble and independent. 575 00:26:58,833 --> 00:27:01,100 By mid-day, we're back in Naples, 576 00:27:01,166 --> 00:27:04,700 free to see things far from the cruise crowds. 577 00:27:04,766 --> 00:27:08,000 This old quarry is the Fontanelle Ossuary. 578 00:27:08,066 --> 00:27:10,766 It's been filled with human bones for centuries -- 579 00:27:10,833 --> 00:27:14,333 a sight I bet no one from our ship is visiting today. 580 00:27:14,400 --> 00:27:17,900 But it's on my list and perfectly doable. 581 00:27:17,966 --> 00:27:22,433 The quarry is filled with bones from emptied church cemeteries. 582 00:27:22,500 --> 00:27:24,800 I learned that in the 19th century, 583 00:27:24,866 --> 00:27:28,500 Neapolitans would actually adopt a skull, 584 00:27:28,566 --> 00:27:30,000 build it a little house, 585 00:27:30,066 --> 00:27:33,366 and count on the skull's soul in heaven to advocate 586 00:27:33,433 --> 00:27:35,466 for them in times of need. 587 00:27:35,533 --> 00:27:45,066 ♪♪ 588 00:27:45,133 --> 00:27:46,366 I love exploring 589 00:27:46,433 --> 00:27:48,833 the characteristic neighborhoods of Naples, 590 00:27:48,900 --> 00:27:52,666 and the most crazy and vivid is Sanitá. 591 00:27:54,866 --> 00:27:56,866 Just wandering through this district 592 00:27:56,933 --> 00:27:59,033 is a cultural carnival. 593 00:27:59,100 --> 00:28:01,866 For me, the back streets of Naples 594 00:28:01,933 --> 00:28:07,266 offer the gritty reality of urban Italy. 595 00:28:07,333 --> 00:28:10,166 Now within easy striking distance of our ship, 596 00:28:10,233 --> 00:28:13,900 I say goodbye to our guide and grab a characteristic lunch 597 00:28:13,966 --> 00:28:19,633 in the city famous as the birthplace of pizza. 598 00:28:19,700 --> 00:28:22,000 The food on the ship is good but generally ignores 599 00:28:22,066 --> 00:28:24,266 the cuisine of whatever port we're visiting. 600 00:28:24,333 --> 00:28:25,600 So, for lunch, 601 00:28:25,666 --> 00:28:28,566 rather than fast food or some forgettable sandwich, 602 00:28:28,633 --> 00:28:32,300 choose authentic local food designed to be eaten quickly. 603 00:28:32,366 --> 00:28:35,566 And here in Naples, it's got to be pizza. 604 00:28:35,633 --> 00:28:39,200 Each country has its quick and easy go-to meal. 605 00:28:39,266 --> 00:28:41,700 It's tapas in Spain. 606 00:28:41,766 --> 00:28:44,933 My favorite Barcelona tapas bars are Basque style -- 607 00:28:45,000 --> 00:28:46,766 you just grab what looks good 608 00:28:46,833 --> 00:28:48,433 and then count the toothpicks on your plate 609 00:28:48,500 --> 00:28:50,600 to figure out how much you owe. 610 00:28:50,666 --> 00:28:53,900 In France, I love a good salade niçoise . 611 00:28:53,966 --> 00:28:56,700 What better lunch in Nice? 612 00:28:56,766 --> 00:29:02,466 In Greece, a souvlaki pita is fast, tasty, and cheap. 613 00:29:02,533 --> 00:29:06,833 And in Istanbul, it's fresh fish right off the big, tipsy dingy. 614 00:29:06,900 --> 00:29:10,000 [ Conversation in native language ] 615 00:29:10,066 --> 00:29:14,133 This is Istanbul fast food. 616 00:29:14,200 --> 00:29:16,133 Tonight, as we sail for Malta, 617 00:29:16,200 --> 00:29:18,400 the grand foyer is put to good use 618 00:29:18,466 --> 00:29:22,300 for the cruise ritual of meeting the ship's officers. 619 00:29:22,366 --> 00:29:24,566 -Your captain, from Greece as well, 620 00:29:24,633 --> 00:29:27,500 Captain [indistinct], ladies and gentlemen! 621 00:29:27,566 --> 00:29:31,266 [ Cheers and applause ] 622 00:29:31,333 --> 00:29:34,966 -That's followed by a little bit of floating razzmatazz. 623 00:29:35,033 --> 00:29:37,966 -[ Singing indistinctly ] 624 00:29:38,033 --> 00:29:44,033 ♪♪ 625 00:29:44,100 --> 00:29:47,000 -And, as the night wears on, up at the pool is a chance 626 00:29:47,066 --> 00:29:52,000 for everyone to literally dance to their own beat -- 627 00:29:52,066 --> 00:29:53,200 wearing headphones, 628 00:29:53,266 --> 00:29:55,366 you can select your favorite style of music 629 00:29:55,433 --> 00:29:57,433 at the silent disco. 630 00:29:57,500 --> 00:30:00,366 It's a surreal experience made even more so 631 00:30:00,433 --> 00:30:02,633 by the graceful mermaid. 632 00:30:02,700 --> 00:30:07,100 ♪♪ 633 00:30:07,166 --> 00:30:09,533 [ Cheers and applause ] 634 00:30:09,600 --> 00:30:18,766 ♪♪ 635 00:30:18,833 --> 00:30:20,666 [ Cheers and applause ] 636 00:30:20,733 --> 00:30:28,800 ♪♪ 637 00:30:28,866 --> 00:30:31,900 The captain advised being up early to enjoy the entry 638 00:30:31,966 --> 00:30:35,033 to the Grand Harbor of Malta. 639 00:30:35,100 --> 00:30:36,766 Clearly, this port was well-worth 640 00:30:36,833 --> 00:30:40,200 some serious fortifications. 641 00:30:40,266 --> 00:30:43,533 Our ship just squeezes into the historic harbor, 642 00:30:43,600 --> 00:30:46,500 and in moments, we're in the old center of town 643 00:30:46,566 --> 00:30:50,400 ready for a busy day of sightseeing. 644 00:30:50,466 --> 00:30:52,600 Malta is a tiny independent country 645 00:30:52,666 --> 00:30:54,833 set between Sicily and Africa. 646 00:30:54,900 --> 00:30:57,933 With a culture enriched by a long parade of civilizations, 647 00:30:58,000 --> 00:31:00,100 it's a strategically placed island nation 648 00:31:00,166 --> 00:31:02,633 with an extraordinary history. 649 00:31:02,700 --> 00:31:04,366 The capital city of Valletta 650 00:31:04,433 --> 00:31:08,066 is a stony monument to this hard-fought history. 651 00:31:08,133 --> 00:31:10,200 And the dramatic view from the ramparts 652 00:31:10,266 --> 00:31:13,766 of the heavily fortified harbor reminds the visitor of Malta's 653 00:31:13,833 --> 00:31:18,633 strategic importance through the centuries. 654 00:31:18,700 --> 00:31:20,600 Of the many cultures that shaped it, 655 00:31:20,666 --> 00:31:24,200 perhaps most obvious is its British heritage. 656 00:31:24,266 --> 00:31:28,633 Malta spent 150 years as part of the British Empire. 657 00:31:28,700 --> 00:31:31,600 While it gained its independence in 1964, 658 00:31:31,666 --> 00:31:35,000 Malta retains its British flavor: 659 00:31:35,066 --> 00:31:38,866 English-style pubs and food, statues of queens... 660 00:31:40,966 --> 00:31:42,833 and red phone booths. 661 00:31:42,900 --> 00:31:49,133 ♪♪ 662 00:31:49,200 --> 00:31:51,266 If this feels like a fortress city, 663 00:31:51,333 --> 00:31:52,933 it's because it was the capital 664 00:31:53,000 --> 00:31:54,866 of the Knights of St. John, 665 00:31:54,933 --> 00:31:58,066 also known as the Knights of Malta. 666 00:31:58,133 --> 00:32:01,000 Malta's stout walls -- many of them incorporated into 667 00:32:01,066 --> 00:32:05,266 existing limestone cliffs -- survived a siege in 1565 668 00:32:05,333 --> 00:32:09,900 of 40,000 Ottoman sailors. 669 00:32:09,966 --> 00:32:11,733 After the Turkish threat passed, 670 00:32:11,800 --> 00:32:15,066 the city was ornamented with delightful architecture, 671 00:32:15,133 --> 00:32:18,300 including characteristic enclosed balconies, 672 00:32:18,366 --> 00:32:20,066 called gallarija. 673 00:32:20,133 --> 00:32:22,433 As you stroll, you'll enjoy an inviting 674 00:32:22,500 --> 00:32:26,200 and nostalgic patina of age in its facades. 675 00:32:29,933 --> 00:32:33,033 A short drive through Malta's dry and timeless landscape 676 00:32:33,100 --> 00:32:36,633 takes us to the fisherman's harbor of Marsaxlokk. 677 00:32:40,666 --> 00:32:42,333 A favorite with cruise travelers, 678 00:32:42,400 --> 00:32:47,866 it's home to a fleet of typical Maltese fishing boats. 679 00:32:47,933 --> 00:32:50,900 While Marsaxlokk has a fine main square and church, 680 00:32:50,966 --> 00:32:53,200 the action is along the harbor -- 681 00:32:53,266 --> 00:32:55,033 especially during the Sunday market, 682 00:32:55,100 --> 00:32:57,266 when it's all about fish. 683 00:33:00,000 --> 00:33:01,833 Tradition says that the shape of the boats 684 00:33:01,900 --> 00:33:04,633 goes back eight centuries before Christ 685 00:33:04,700 --> 00:33:08,033 to when Malta was a Phoenician colony. 686 00:33:08,100 --> 00:33:12,033 These colorful boats pop in the dazzling sunlight, 687 00:33:12,100 --> 00:33:15,300 seeming to celebrate yet another distinct heritage 688 00:33:15,366 --> 00:33:17,733 of the Mediterranean world. 689 00:33:22,133 --> 00:33:23,800 When the distance between ports 690 00:33:23,866 --> 00:33:25,600 is longer than an overnight ride, 691 00:33:25,666 --> 00:33:28,833 the ship spends an entire day at sea. 692 00:33:31,333 --> 00:33:33,033 You know, one of my favorite things 693 00:33:33,100 --> 00:33:35,666 about a Mediterranean cruise is the day at sea -- 694 00:33:35,733 --> 00:33:39,033 sleep in, leisurely brunch, read a book, 695 00:33:39,100 --> 00:33:41,966 just hang out by the pool. 696 00:33:42,033 --> 00:33:45,566 For activities on board, each evening a printed program 697 00:33:45,633 --> 00:33:47,566 with a busy schedule for the next day 698 00:33:47,633 --> 00:33:50,033 lands on your bed. 699 00:33:50,100 --> 00:33:55,400 Cruise lines work hard to make time on the ship enjoyable. 700 00:33:55,466 --> 00:33:58,400 They arrange something for everyone: 701 00:33:58,466 --> 00:34:03,133 poolside is ground zero for fun and relaxation outdoors. 702 00:34:05,433 --> 00:34:08,533 Every day is filled with ship-sponsored activities -- 703 00:34:08,600 --> 00:34:10,833 like dance classes. 704 00:34:10,900 --> 00:34:14,466 And there are plenty of other ways to enjoy the sunny hours 705 00:34:14,533 --> 00:34:16,100 on deck. 706 00:34:16,166 --> 00:34:20,433 ♪♪ 707 00:34:20,500 --> 00:34:23,700 Different cruise lines serve different markets. 708 00:34:23,766 --> 00:34:26,033 Smaller ships generally charge more 709 00:34:26,100 --> 00:34:28,866 and are able to visit smaller ports. 710 00:34:28,933 --> 00:34:30,333 Of the big ship options, 711 00:34:30,400 --> 00:34:35,233 you have a range of prices and styles. 712 00:34:35,300 --> 00:34:36,733 When shopping for a cruise, 713 00:34:36,800 --> 00:34:38,900 there are two major considerations: 714 00:34:38,966 --> 00:34:41,833 the itinerary and the character of the cruise line. 715 00:34:41,900 --> 00:34:44,000 It's your choice: family-friendly, 716 00:34:44,066 --> 00:34:46,866 young and trendy, older and more mature, and so on. 717 00:34:46,933 --> 00:34:48,700 It's pretty obvious by the advertising 718 00:34:48,766 --> 00:34:50,633 which market's being targeted 719 00:34:50,700 --> 00:34:52,833 and the general style of the passengers 720 00:34:52,900 --> 00:34:55,133 you'll be sharing your ship with. 721 00:34:55,200 --> 00:34:56,700 Your cruise price will also vary 722 00:34:56,766 --> 00:34:59,866 according to your choice of cabin class. 723 00:34:59,933 --> 00:35:02,433 Like the vast majority of those on this ship, 724 00:35:02,500 --> 00:35:04,933 I'm staying in a basic stateroom. 725 00:35:05,000 --> 00:35:08,333 On the newer ships, most rooms come with a small balcony. 726 00:35:08,400 --> 00:35:10,533 I enjoy the fresh air, the views, 727 00:35:10,600 --> 00:35:14,566 and quiet moments on my own deck. 728 00:35:14,633 --> 00:35:16,066 If money's no concern, 729 00:35:16,133 --> 00:35:19,566 you have some pretty fancy top end options. 730 00:35:19,633 --> 00:35:22,933 Rooms cost more or less depending on view, size, 731 00:35:23,000 --> 00:35:26,500 location, and package of services. 732 00:35:26,566 --> 00:35:29,933 Italy juts 600 miles into the Mediterranean. 733 00:35:30,000 --> 00:35:32,700 It divides the sea from a cruise itinerary point of view 734 00:35:32,766 --> 00:35:36,333 into western ports and eastern ports. 735 00:35:36,400 --> 00:35:37,766 We're sailing east, 736 00:35:37,833 --> 00:35:41,033 into the Greece's Aegean Sea for three more stops. 737 00:35:41,100 --> 00:35:45,266 Next up: Athens. 738 00:35:45,333 --> 00:35:48,233 The port of Athens is Piraeus, 739 00:35:48,300 --> 00:35:52,533 another industrial springboard serving a popular destination. 740 00:35:52,600 --> 00:35:55,166 While Athens is perfectly tourable 741 00:35:55,233 --> 00:35:56,833 for the independent traveler, 742 00:35:56,900 --> 00:35:59,900 many opt for the cruise line's excursion. 743 00:35:59,966 --> 00:36:02,866 Cruise lines excel in efficiency. 744 00:36:02,933 --> 00:36:04,333 Before leaving the ship, 745 00:36:04,400 --> 00:36:06,633 tourists meet in the theater, 746 00:36:06,700 --> 00:36:08,633 get their tour group number, 747 00:36:08,700 --> 00:36:10,866 are escorted to their awaiting bus, 748 00:36:10,933 --> 00:36:14,533 and meet the guide. 749 00:36:14,600 --> 00:36:16,000 Within minutes, they're on their way 750 00:36:16,066 --> 00:36:18,533 as he narrates the ride into town with information 751 00:36:18,600 --> 00:36:20,900 about the leading city of ancient Greece -- 752 00:36:20,966 --> 00:36:25,033 the home of Socrates and Plato. 753 00:36:25,100 --> 00:36:27,666 Today, Athens is a sprawling metropolis 754 00:36:27,733 --> 00:36:29,433 of four million people. 755 00:36:29,500 --> 00:36:32,300 But, in the 19th century, it was just a small town 756 00:36:32,366 --> 00:36:35,666 huddled at the base of its once mighty acropolis. 757 00:36:35,733 --> 00:36:38,466 That old town is today's touristy shopping quarter, 758 00:36:38,533 --> 00:36:39,966 called the Plaka, 759 00:36:40,033 --> 00:36:42,433 with its fun eateries, colorful markets, 760 00:36:42,500 --> 00:36:46,966 and shops filled with knickknacks. 761 00:36:47,033 --> 00:36:48,366 Next to the modern markets 762 00:36:48,433 --> 00:36:51,033 you find the ancient market -- the Agora, 763 00:36:51,100 --> 00:36:53,033 with one of the best surviving temples 764 00:36:53,100 --> 00:36:55,000 from ancient Greece -- 765 00:36:55,066 --> 00:36:59,233 the Temple of Hephaestus. 766 00:36:59,300 --> 00:37:03,666 But everyone's got their sights set on the Acropolis. 767 00:37:03,733 --> 00:37:05,866 Our group converges with other groups, 768 00:37:05,933 --> 00:37:09,066 and everyone clamors up the famous hill. 769 00:37:09,133 --> 00:37:12,333 While cruisers are unavoidably a part of this crush, 770 00:37:12,400 --> 00:37:15,833 guides do a good job of managing the cruise ship rush hour 771 00:37:15,900 --> 00:37:17,366 each morning. 772 00:37:17,433 --> 00:37:21,100 Once on top, tourists marvel at the iconic Parthenon 773 00:37:21,166 --> 00:37:24,933 as guides do their best to bring the ruins to life. 774 00:37:25,000 --> 00:37:27,700 And from the summit of this historic bluff, 775 00:37:27,766 --> 00:37:30,100 all are rewarded with a commanding view 776 00:37:30,166 --> 00:37:32,200 of sprawling Athens. 777 00:37:35,266 --> 00:37:37,100 After each day of sightseeing, 778 00:37:37,166 --> 00:37:41,000 back at the ship, passengers enjoy the ritual welcome. 779 00:37:41,066 --> 00:37:43,733 A cool cloth and a refreshing drink, 780 00:37:43,800 --> 00:37:46,633 and they're back home in their floating resort. 781 00:37:49,733 --> 00:37:52,200 Cruise lines employ a lot of people: 782 00:37:52,266 --> 00:37:55,833 a ratio of about one worker for every two passengers. 783 00:37:55,900 --> 00:38:01,300 A typical crew comes from dozens of developing world countries. 784 00:38:01,366 --> 00:38:03,600 A fun and extra dimension of cruising 785 00:38:03,666 --> 00:38:05,100 is getting to interact with people 786 00:38:05,166 --> 00:38:08,166 whose cultures you know almost nothing about. 787 00:38:08,233 --> 00:38:12,033 [ Cheering ] 788 00:38:12,100 --> 00:38:15,566 Crew members work very hard, often seven 12-hour days 789 00:38:15,633 --> 00:38:17,433 a week for months at a stretch, far 790 00:38:17,500 --> 00:38:20,366 from their homes and families. 791 00:38:20,433 --> 00:38:21,800 While they don't make much money 792 00:38:21,866 --> 00:38:23,700 from a First World point of view, 793 00:38:23,766 --> 00:38:26,100 they make a solid living on their country's scale 794 00:38:26,166 --> 00:38:29,200 and are able to help support their families. 795 00:38:29,266 --> 00:38:31,766 Their base pay is only a part of their wage 796 00:38:31,833 --> 00:38:37,066 and much of their income is based on tips. 797 00:38:37,133 --> 00:38:38,900 Tipping on the ship is automatic. 798 00:38:38,966 --> 00:38:41,500 Most cruise lines use an "auto tip" system 799 00:38:41,566 --> 00:38:43,633 with a healthy gratuity added to your bill 800 00:38:43,700 --> 00:38:46,400 that generously covers all your service crew. 801 00:38:46,466 --> 00:38:48,300 Of course, you can adjust it if you like 802 00:38:48,366 --> 00:38:49,900 and you're welcome to leave a little extra 803 00:38:49,966 --> 00:38:53,200 for particular crew members who you especially appreciate. 804 00:38:53,266 --> 00:38:56,266 Our last two stops are fabled Greek islands 805 00:38:56,333 --> 00:38:58,066 in the Aegean Sea. 806 00:38:58,133 --> 00:38:59,333 The Isle of Mykonos 807 00:38:59,400 --> 00:39:03,133 comes with a classic white-washed Greek port. 808 00:39:06,000 --> 00:39:08,800 While a small island with a small main town, 809 00:39:08,866 --> 00:39:12,533 it's a standard stop for the big cruise ships. 810 00:39:12,600 --> 00:39:14,333 There's a pier for only one ship, 811 00:39:14,400 --> 00:39:16,000 so most ships drop the hook 812 00:39:16,066 --> 00:39:18,533 and shuttle their people in by tender. 813 00:39:18,600 --> 00:39:22,166 If visiting by cruise ship, it's smart to get an early start. 814 00:39:24,000 --> 00:39:25,200 We caught the first tender -- 815 00:39:25,266 --> 00:39:27,300 beat the crowds and beat the heat. 816 00:39:27,366 --> 00:39:29,333 It's easy to enjoy Mykonos Town 817 00:39:29,400 --> 00:39:32,133 with no planning, no tour, and no guide. 818 00:39:32,200 --> 00:39:36,266 This is a stop which lends itself to unstructured free time 819 00:39:36,333 --> 00:39:38,566 just lazing on the beach, wandering, 820 00:39:38,633 --> 00:39:40,500 and browsing the shops. 821 00:39:40,566 --> 00:39:42,766 It's the epitome of a Greek island town: 822 00:39:42,833 --> 00:39:47,400 a busy breakwater, fine little beach, and inviting lanes. 823 00:39:47,466 --> 00:39:49,700 While tourism dominates the economy, 824 00:39:49,766 --> 00:39:52,433 Mykonos still has a traditional charm 825 00:39:52,500 --> 00:39:54,966 thickly layered with white stucco, 826 00:39:55,033 --> 00:39:58,666 blue trim, and colorful bougainvillea. 827 00:40:00,833 --> 00:40:05,933 Back lanes offer tranquility away from the cruise crowds. 828 00:40:06,000 --> 00:40:08,000 As in many Greek island towns, 829 00:40:08,066 --> 00:40:10,400 centuries ago the windmills of Mykonos 830 00:40:10,466 --> 00:40:12,100 harnessed the steady wind, 831 00:40:12,166 --> 00:40:15,666 grinding grain to feed its sailors. 832 00:40:15,733 --> 00:40:18,833 Five mills still stand, perfectly positioned 833 00:40:18,900 --> 00:40:21,966 to catch the prevailing breeze. 834 00:40:22,033 --> 00:40:26,300 A tidy embankment is so pretty they call it "little Venice." 835 00:40:26,366 --> 00:40:28,200 Wealthy shipping merchants built this row 836 00:40:28,266 --> 00:40:30,600 of fine mansions with brightly painted wooden 837 00:40:30,666 --> 00:40:34,966 balconies that seem to rise right out of the sea. 838 00:40:35,033 --> 00:40:38,500 Today, these mansions have been refitted as restaurants and bars 839 00:40:38,566 --> 00:40:42,633 for tourists enjoying fresh fish and romantic views. 840 00:40:45,433 --> 00:40:47,333 Mykonos' status in the last generation 841 00:40:47,400 --> 00:40:50,800 was as a fashionable destination for jet-setters, 842 00:40:50,866 --> 00:40:54,066 and it retains a certain hip cachet. 843 00:40:54,133 --> 00:40:56,633 These days, tacky trinket stalls share the lanes 844 00:40:56,700 --> 00:41:00,100 with top-end fashion boutiques. 845 00:41:00,166 --> 00:41:02,366 Prices are high, and, in season, 846 00:41:02,433 --> 00:41:06,033 the island is crammed full of vacationers. 847 00:41:06,100 --> 00:41:08,666 But, even with four ships in the harbor today, 848 00:41:08,733 --> 00:41:10,866 there seems to be plenty of room. 849 00:41:15,633 --> 00:41:17,866 There's a range of beaches on Mykonos. 850 00:41:17,933 --> 00:41:19,933 The most trendy is Paradise, 851 00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:23,966 one of the ultimate party beaches in the Aegean. 852 00:41:24,033 --> 00:41:27,466 Presided over by hotels that run bars for young beachgoers, 853 00:41:27,533 --> 00:41:30,166 the Paradise action is non-stop. 854 00:41:32,233 --> 00:41:35,100 While the beach becomes a raging dance floor after dark, 855 00:41:35,166 --> 00:41:38,833 the deejay is busy all day as the cruise set joins backpackers 856 00:41:38,900 --> 00:41:41,166 from around the world to enjoy the scene. 857 00:41:43,466 --> 00:41:45,200 As is standard around here, 858 00:41:45,266 --> 00:41:49,500 beaches rent comfortable lounge furniture with umbrellas. 859 00:41:49,566 --> 00:41:51,933 Just plop onto whatever appeals. 860 00:41:52,000 --> 00:41:55,000 Don't worry, the drinks will come to you. 861 00:41:59,066 --> 00:42:00,633 If you prefer a quieter scene, 862 00:42:00,700 --> 00:42:04,933 the more remote beaches are a short drive further out. 863 00:42:05,000 --> 00:42:07,466 While extremely arid, the stony countryside 864 00:42:07,533 --> 00:42:10,633 of Mykonos -- complete with white-washed churches 865 00:42:10,700 --> 00:42:15,700 and staggering views -- is a delight for a quick road trip. 866 00:42:15,766 --> 00:42:17,566 Agios Sostis, an old hippie beach 867 00:42:17,633 --> 00:42:19,300 at the north end of the island, 868 00:42:19,366 --> 00:42:23,400 has none of the thumping party energy of Paradise Beach. 869 00:42:23,466 --> 00:42:26,166 It offers little beyond lovely sand, 870 00:42:26,233 --> 00:42:28,000 turquoise water, 871 00:42:28,066 --> 00:42:30,700 and tranquility. 872 00:42:30,766 --> 00:42:35,033 And, for many, it's their Greek Isle dream come true. 873 00:42:37,333 --> 00:42:38,766 Along with its beaches, 874 00:42:38,833 --> 00:42:41,900 Mykonos offers a major historic attraction. 875 00:42:41,966 --> 00:42:44,233 It's on an uninhabited neighboring island, 876 00:42:44,300 --> 00:42:47,300 a 30-minute shuttle boat ride away. 877 00:42:47,366 --> 00:42:50,066 The island of Delos was one of the most important places 878 00:42:50,133 --> 00:42:52,133 in the ancient Greek world... 879 00:42:55,066 --> 00:42:56,933 ...with temples honoring the birthplace 880 00:42:57,000 --> 00:43:00,433 of the twin gods Apollo and Artemis. 881 00:43:00,500 --> 00:43:02,066 Centuries before Christ, 882 00:43:02,133 --> 00:43:05,533 Delos attracted pilgrims from across the Western world. 883 00:43:08,533 --> 00:43:11,400 Delos was important in three different ancient eras -- 884 00:43:11,466 --> 00:43:13,300 first as a religious site, 885 00:43:13,366 --> 00:43:16,200 then as the treasury of the Athenian League -- 886 00:43:16,266 --> 00:43:18,600 that was sort of the "Fort Knox" of the ancient world -- 887 00:43:18,666 --> 00:43:20,466 and later, during Roman times, 888 00:43:20,533 --> 00:43:22,733 this was one of the busiest commercial ports 889 00:43:22,800 --> 00:43:24,700 in the entire Mediterranean. 890 00:43:24,766 --> 00:43:29,666 Delos ranked right up there with Olympia, Athens, and Delphi. 891 00:43:29,733 --> 00:43:33,533 Survey the remains of the ancient harbor... 892 00:43:33,600 --> 00:43:37,933 foundations of shops and homes... 893 00:43:38,000 --> 00:43:41,100 and hillsides littered with temple remains. 894 00:43:43,800 --> 00:43:46,166 The iconic row of sphinx-like lions 895 00:43:46,233 --> 00:43:49,466 still heralds the importance of the place. 896 00:43:49,533 --> 00:43:55,233 This was one of the Aegean world's finest cities. 897 00:43:55,300 --> 00:43:57,666 Imagine Delos in its heyday -- 898 00:43:57,733 --> 00:44:00,900 a booming center of trade: streets lined 899 00:44:00,966 --> 00:44:06,033 with 3,000 shops where you could buy just about anything, 900 00:44:06,100 --> 00:44:08,433 dazzling mansions of wealthy merchants 901 00:44:08,500 --> 00:44:11,300 with colonnaded inner courtyards. 902 00:44:11,366 --> 00:44:13,233 There were fine mosaics -- 903 00:44:13,300 --> 00:44:17,533 like this one of the god Dionysus riding a panther. 904 00:44:17,600 --> 00:44:19,066 Culture thrived here, 905 00:44:19,133 --> 00:44:24,133 enough to keep this theater -- which could seat 6,000 -- busy. 906 00:44:24,200 --> 00:44:28,400 I cap my visit by climbing to the summit of the island. 907 00:44:28,466 --> 00:44:30,966 My reward: one of the Mediterranean's 908 00:44:31,033 --> 00:44:33,700 great king-of-the-mountain thrills. 909 00:44:33,766 --> 00:44:35,600 As you observe the chain of islands 910 00:44:35,666 --> 00:44:38,900 dramatically swirling in 360 degrees, 911 00:44:38,966 --> 00:44:41,000 you can understand why historians believe 912 00:44:41,066 --> 00:44:42,733 that these Cycladic Islands 913 00:44:42,800 --> 00:44:45,966 got their name from the way they make a circle, or cycle, 914 00:44:46,033 --> 00:44:50,166 around this oh-so-important little island of Delos. 915 00:44:52,633 --> 00:44:56,733 Back on the ship, we set sail for our last Greek island. 916 00:44:56,800 --> 00:45:00,266 By the nature of a cruise schedule, dinners are at sea. 917 00:45:00,333 --> 00:45:03,833 Food is unlimited and generally included. 918 00:45:03,900 --> 00:45:06,300 There's a constant risk of overeating, 919 00:45:06,366 --> 00:45:09,000 and for some cruisers, there's a temptation 920 00:45:09,066 --> 00:45:12,433 to see if you can eat five meals a day and still snorkel 921 00:45:12,500 --> 00:45:15,200 when you get to the port. 922 00:45:15,266 --> 00:45:17,633 Traditionally, there's one big dining room 923 00:45:17,700 --> 00:45:20,466 where cruisers have a set table and dining time, 924 00:45:20,533 --> 00:45:22,033 with the same table mates, 925 00:45:22,100 --> 00:45:25,200 and a chance to get to know their server. 926 00:45:25,266 --> 00:45:28,433 But that's changing as people want less formality 927 00:45:28,500 --> 00:45:31,366 and more flexibility. 928 00:45:31,433 --> 00:45:33,033 Now there are more options: 929 00:45:33,100 --> 00:45:36,266 cafes, snack bars, 930 00:45:36,333 --> 00:45:38,733 and a burger grill poolside. 931 00:45:38,800 --> 00:45:41,766 The standby is a sprawling cafeteria 932 00:45:41,833 --> 00:45:44,200 with a huge and efficient selection of food 933 00:45:44,266 --> 00:45:46,133 available at almost any hour. 934 00:45:46,200 --> 00:45:49,500 There's a vast selection of meats, 935 00:45:49,566 --> 00:45:51,366 hot foods, 936 00:45:51,433 --> 00:45:53,233 salads, 937 00:45:53,300 --> 00:45:55,933 fruit... 938 00:45:56,000 --> 00:45:58,166 and desserts. 939 00:46:00,533 --> 00:46:03,433 And ships also offer a variety of higher quality 940 00:46:03,500 --> 00:46:05,866 specialty restaurants. 941 00:46:05,933 --> 00:46:09,433 These are more formal, often require reservations, 942 00:46:09,500 --> 00:46:11,533 and come with a surcharge. 943 00:46:11,600 --> 00:46:13,500 If you don't mind the extra fee, 944 00:46:13,566 --> 00:46:17,466 they can be a romantic and tasty option. 945 00:46:17,533 --> 00:46:21,333 Many cruise lines still have formal night about once a week, 946 00:46:21,400 --> 00:46:23,333 usually on the day at sea. 947 00:46:23,400 --> 00:46:25,300 While this is becoming more optional, 948 00:46:25,366 --> 00:46:28,866 the personality of the ship still changes on these evenings. 949 00:46:28,933 --> 00:46:32,366 On our ship, the dress code was called "casual chic" 950 00:46:32,433 --> 00:46:34,500 rather than "formal." 951 00:46:34,566 --> 00:46:36,733 If you don't want to dress up, no problem -- 952 00:46:36,800 --> 00:46:39,166 just steer clear of the formal areas. 953 00:46:39,233 --> 00:46:41,366 But for many people, this is the time 954 00:46:41,433 --> 00:46:44,966 to put on a suit and tie or a glamorous gown. 955 00:46:45,033 --> 00:46:48,866 When you do that, a romantic moment at sea by moonlight 956 00:46:48,933 --> 00:46:51,233 is particularly memorable. 957 00:46:53,300 --> 00:46:56,066 ♪♪ 958 00:46:56,133 --> 00:47:00,833 I enjoy the scenic arrivals and departures by cruise ship. 959 00:47:00,900 --> 00:47:03,700 Being on the top deck as you approach the day's destination 960 00:47:03,766 --> 00:47:07,233 gives you a quiet, bird's-eye view. 961 00:47:07,300 --> 00:47:09,500 Approaching an exotic and fabled island 962 00:47:09,566 --> 00:47:13,066 like Santorini -- as the moon sets and the sun rises, 963 00:47:13,133 --> 00:47:15,933 just kissing the lip of the breath-taking cliffs -- 964 00:47:16,000 --> 00:47:18,633 is worth getting up for. 965 00:47:18,700 --> 00:47:20,966 Santorini is a dramatic island -- 966 00:47:21,033 --> 00:47:25,866 the rim of a volcanic crater with spectacular vistas. 967 00:47:25,933 --> 00:47:28,233 Once a complete island like its neighbors, 968 00:47:28,300 --> 00:47:31,900 it was a volcano that -- about 3,500 years ago -- 969 00:47:31,966 --> 00:47:36,066 blew its top, creating a caldera -- this flooded crater. 970 00:47:36,133 --> 00:47:38,766 Today, inviting white-washed villages 971 00:47:38,833 --> 00:47:41,200 seem to crowd its dramatic ridges 972 00:47:41,266 --> 00:47:44,700 as if jostling to enjoy the views. 973 00:47:44,766 --> 00:47:46,500 Because Santorini's pier is small, 974 00:47:46,566 --> 00:47:49,600 giant cruise ships drop anchor and tender their passengers 975 00:47:49,666 --> 00:47:51,966 in on small shuttle boats. 976 00:47:54,800 --> 00:47:57,466 Individuals go to the tiny "old harbor" 977 00:47:57,533 --> 00:48:00,500 where they can ride a donkey up the zig-zag trail 978 00:48:00,566 --> 00:48:05,666 or hop a cable car to the scenic lip of the island crater. 979 00:48:05,733 --> 00:48:08,033 Those paying for the cruise line's excursion 980 00:48:08,100 --> 00:48:11,566 get off the ship first, and head for an alternative port, 981 00:48:11,633 --> 00:48:13,933 where buses and guides await. 982 00:48:17,000 --> 00:48:19,900 Considering the crush of the crowds, the limited time, 983 00:48:19,966 --> 00:48:22,100 and the scattered array of interesting sights, 984 00:48:22,166 --> 00:48:25,066 investing in a bus tour like this to see Santorini 985 00:48:25,133 --> 00:48:27,366 can be a good value. 986 00:48:27,433 --> 00:48:30,100 Within minutes, you'll be powering up the switch-backs 987 00:48:30,166 --> 00:48:34,866 into the island as your guide narrates the drive. 988 00:48:34,933 --> 00:48:38,866 Santorini is arid, with no lakes or rivers. 989 00:48:38,933 --> 00:48:40,433 We're here in early September, 990 00:48:40,500 --> 00:48:42,800 and they haven't had rain since May. 991 00:48:42,866 --> 00:48:45,200 But grapes on Santorini soak up the sun 992 00:48:45,266 --> 00:48:48,433 and make the island's distinctive wine. 993 00:48:48,500 --> 00:48:50,100 As they have since ancient times, 994 00:48:50,166 --> 00:48:53,366 vintners shape the vines into protective baskets 995 00:48:53,433 --> 00:48:58,233 in hopes that they'll collect the dew and survive the wind. 996 00:48:58,300 --> 00:49:03,600 The Santorini fruit of the vine is both hearty and sweet. 997 00:49:03,666 --> 00:49:06,700 Many excursions include a winery tour with a chance 998 00:49:06,766 --> 00:49:09,533 to taste the local wine. 999 00:49:09,600 --> 00:49:12,133 Sure, this stop is designed to accommodate the masses 1000 00:49:12,200 --> 00:49:14,600 and might not be as charming as you hoped. 1001 00:49:14,666 --> 00:49:18,533 Still, the wine's good and the group's having lots of fun. 1002 00:49:21,066 --> 00:49:24,300 Cruise line excursions come with a steady commentary... 1003 00:49:24,366 --> 00:49:26,966 -Those two are the Kameni Islands. 1004 00:49:27,033 --> 00:49:31,033 The Kameni Islands are actually made of lava rock. 1005 00:49:31,100 --> 00:49:34,933 -...scenic views from the bus, and the stress-free efficiency 1006 00:49:35,000 --> 00:49:38,100 of getting smoothly from point to point. 1007 00:49:38,166 --> 00:49:43,633 And tour groups are sure to have free time at the best photo ops. 1008 00:49:43,700 --> 00:49:47,300 Oia is the postcard image of the Greek Isles. 1009 00:49:47,366 --> 00:49:49,933 This idyllic ensemble of white-washed houses 1010 00:49:50,000 --> 00:49:53,066 and characteristic domes is delicately draped 1011 00:49:53,133 --> 00:49:57,366 over a steep slope at the top of a cliff. 1012 00:49:57,433 --> 00:49:59,700 Viewpoints here are some of the most striking 1013 00:49:59,766 --> 00:50:04,800 in the Greek Seas as tourists clamor for just the right angle. 1014 00:50:04,866 --> 00:50:07,766 Artists fall in love with Oia and move in. 1015 00:50:07,833 --> 00:50:10,433 Honeymooners find the B&B of their dreams 1016 00:50:10,500 --> 00:50:15,000 and savor breakfast in unforgettable settings. 1017 00:50:15,066 --> 00:50:16,566 And at the quiet end of town, 1018 00:50:16,633 --> 00:50:20,766 the old windmill reminds all of a more rustic age gone by. 1019 00:50:20,833 --> 00:50:28,666 ♪♪ 1020 00:50:28,733 --> 00:50:31,666 To get the absolute most out of our Santorini day, 1021 00:50:31,733 --> 00:50:35,933 I've booked half a day with Dimitris. 1022 00:50:36,000 --> 00:50:40,566 Of Santorini's many beaches, Kamari is one of the best. 1023 00:50:40,633 --> 00:50:44,666 The black sand is a reminder of the island's volcanic origin. 1024 00:50:44,733 --> 00:50:47,000 Typical of Greek island resort beaches, 1025 00:50:47,066 --> 00:50:49,266 it's lined with rentable lounge chairs 1026 00:50:49,333 --> 00:50:52,100 and a strip of seafood restaurants. 1027 00:50:52,166 --> 00:50:55,866 And with Dimitris, I know exactly what I'm eating. 1028 00:50:55,933 --> 00:50:59,066 These salads look delicious. Can you tell me about them? 1029 00:50:59,133 --> 00:51:01,966 -Well, we have here a Greek salad and a Santorini salad. 1030 00:51:02,033 --> 00:51:04,500 The difference with the local salad is 1031 00:51:04,566 --> 00:51:07,633 that we use the local tomatoes, the cherry tomatoes, 1032 00:51:07,700 --> 00:51:10,900 the local cucumbers, and instead of the feta cheese, 1033 00:51:10,966 --> 00:51:12,533 we use the goat cheese, 1034 00:51:12,600 --> 00:51:15,400 and we add the capers and the caper leaves. 1035 00:51:15,466 --> 00:51:18,133 See, you can eat them. They taste good. 1036 00:51:18,200 --> 00:51:21,133 We got some sardines here, grilled. 1037 00:51:21,200 --> 00:51:24,933 And on the other side, we've got a very nice grilled calamari, 1038 00:51:25,000 --> 00:51:28,733 also served with salad, the lemon, and the olive oil. 1039 00:51:28,800 --> 00:51:32,300 -This is a healthy diet. -This is the Mediterranean diet. 1040 00:51:32,366 --> 00:51:34,100 -We bid our guide goodbye 1041 00:51:34,166 --> 00:51:36,900 to enjoy our last couple of hours in Fira, 1042 00:51:36,966 --> 00:51:40,033 Santorini's main town. 1043 00:51:40,100 --> 00:51:44,733 Fira is the island's commercial and transportation hub. 1044 00:51:44,800 --> 00:51:46,933 Its main street -- thronged with tourists 1045 00:51:47,000 --> 00:51:48,900 whenever there's a cruise ship in the bay -- 1046 00:51:48,966 --> 00:51:52,133 seems like little more than a long line of shops, cafes, 1047 00:51:52,200 --> 00:51:55,400 and restaurants -- all with staggering views. 1048 00:51:57,366 --> 00:51:59,100 Enjoying the island with a local guide 1049 00:51:59,166 --> 00:52:02,333 and then taking a short break to enjoy a cliff-side bar 1050 00:52:02,400 --> 00:52:05,033 filled with happy travelers from around the world 1051 00:52:05,100 --> 00:52:07,466 is a reminder that, even if on a cruise, 1052 00:52:07,533 --> 00:52:10,333 you can exercise your independence and spark 1053 00:52:10,400 --> 00:52:13,266 some great travel moments. 1054 00:52:13,333 --> 00:52:15,000 Keeping my eye on the clock, 1055 00:52:15,066 --> 00:52:17,633 I hop the cable car back down to the old port, 1056 00:52:17,700 --> 00:52:21,833 where our ship's shuttle, or tender, awaits. 1057 00:52:21,900 --> 00:52:24,233 Most cruisers get nervous about missing the ship 1058 00:52:24,300 --> 00:52:26,900 and head back earlier than necessary. 1059 00:52:26,966 --> 00:52:30,266 I find the ports are least crowded and most relaxed 1060 00:52:30,333 --> 00:52:33,000 and enjoyable during that last hour. 1061 00:52:37,566 --> 00:52:40,033 The last tender isn't leaving for 15 minutes. 1062 00:52:40,100 --> 00:52:43,133 That's plenty of time for one last ouzo. 1063 00:52:45,666 --> 00:52:48,066 A cruise can be what you make of it: 1064 00:52:48,133 --> 00:52:51,266 a pre-packaged travel cliché, 1065 00:52:51,333 --> 00:52:55,133 or a springboard for the independent spirit. 1066 00:52:55,200 --> 00:52:57,233 Whether you took the cruise excursion, 1067 00:52:57,300 --> 00:53:00,633 or hopped a donkey, or just had lunch in port, 1068 00:53:00,700 --> 00:53:03,800 you'll take home unforgettable memories. 1069 00:53:03,866 --> 00:53:07,300 A cruise allows you to explore this unique and historic region 1070 00:53:07,366 --> 00:53:09,466 in a way that suits you best. 1071 00:53:09,533 --> 00:53:12,166 Whether that's touring ancient sites in Greece, 1072 00:53:12,233 --> 00:53:13,533 crossing off some of those 1073 00:53:13,600 --> 00:53:15,933 "must see" highlights in Italy or France, 1074 00:53:16,000 --> 00:53:20,600 or just relaxing on the beach of your dreams. 1075 00:53:20,666 --> 00:53:24,233 As with travel in general, for cruisers, life-long memories 1076 00:53:24,300 --> 00:53:27,466 such as these can be yours when you know your options 1077 00:53:27,533 --> 00:53:31,966 and then match them with your personal style of travel. 1078 00:53:32,033 --> 00:53:33,833 Our cruise is nearing its end, 1079 00:53:33,900 --> 00:53:37,100 and I'm savoring our last evening at sea. 1080 00:53:37,166 --> 00:53:38,666 While we've enjoyed a quick look 1081 00:53:38,733 --> 00:53:41,000 at a selection of Mediterranean ports, 1082 00:53:41,066 --> 00:53:43,333 there are plenty more. 1083 00:53:43,400 --> 00:53:47,233 We'll be back in the real world in the morning. 1084 00:53:47,300 --> 00:53:50,666 ♪♪ 1085 00:53:50,733 --> 00:53:53,066 There are many ways to explore Europe. 1086 00:53:53,133 --> 00:53:55,233 For a lot of people, taking a cruise -- 1087 00:53:55,300 --> 00:53:57,266 especially if you know how to do it smartly -- 1088 00:53:57,333 --> 00:54:01,000 can be a practical mix of efficiency, economy, and fun. 1089 00:54:01,066 --> 00:54:03,566 I hope you've enjoyed our Mediterranean cruise. 1090 00:54:03,633 --> 00:54:04,700 I'm Rick Steves. 1091 00:54:04,766 --> 00:54:07,066 Until next time, keep on travelin'. 1092 00:54:08,166 --> 00:54:15,933 ♪♪ 1093 00:54:16,000 --> 00:54:23,766 ♪♪ 1094 00:54:23,833 --> 00:54:31,666 ♪♪ 1095 00:54:31,733 --> 00:54:39,533 ♪♪ 1096 00:54:39,600 --> 00:54:47,366 ♪♪ 1097 00:54:47,433 --> 00:54:55,266 ♪♪ 1098 00:54:57,933 --> 00:55:00,000 ♪♪