WEBVTT
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Hi, I'm Rick Steves,
sailing beyond Europe this time.
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We're on the Nile,
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exploring the historic
and cultural wonders of Egypt.
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Thanks for joining us.
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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Egypt, while not in Europe,
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contributed to the foundation
of Western civilization.
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It's a crossroads where east
meets west, north meets south,
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and where ancient meets modern.
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As we'll see, it's a long story,
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and it continues to unfold.
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In Cairo, after admiring
one of the great sights
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of the ancient world,
we marvel at King Tut's gold...
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-Buy one, two free today.
Cheap, cheap.
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-...we haggle with a gauntlet
of eager merchants,
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venture into the back streets
local-style...
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and help chisel a tombstone.
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In Alexandria, we delve
into a vibrant market
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and smoke a shisha.
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In Luxor, we revel in the glory
of the pharaohs' temples
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and their hidden tombs.
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♪♪
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We hoist the sail for
an unforgettable felucca ride,
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then upgrade
to a river boat cruise
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and kick back while
enjoying timeless Nile views.
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Our finale -- the magnificent
ruins of Abu Simbel.
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In the southeast corner
of the Mediterranean,
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Egypt is one of Africa's
largest countries.
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The Nile River flows like
a green ribbon
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from south to north.
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After Cairo
and the pyramids at Giza,
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we tour Alexandria and Luxor.
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Then we cruise the Nile,
check out Aswan,
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and finish in Abu Simbel.
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♪♪
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Cairo, straddling the Nile,
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is the biggest city
in North Africa
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and the biggest
in the Middle East.
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It's the capital of Egypt
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and one of the leading cities
in Islam.
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With about 20 million people
in greater Cairo,
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it's bursting at the seams
and pulsing with energy.
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Cairo's downtown is modern
and can feel European.
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Streets, squares, and grand
buildings are reminders
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of the country's colonial past,
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from the 19th
and early 20th centuries.
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The riverfront throbs
with energy --
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stately bridges
busy with traffic,
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fancy riverside restaurants,
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and towering
apartment complexes.
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The Nile is still the lifeblood
of the city,
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sprawling endlessly
on both sides.
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The heart of Cairo
is Tahrir Square.
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It's long been ground zero
for the people's spirit.
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If there's a demonstration
going on --
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And there have been massive ones
in recent years --
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it's likely here.
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In addition to its
political energy,
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the city's long been
a religious capital.
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♪♪
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Ever since the forces of Islam
swept across north Africa
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from Arabia in the 7th century
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spreading the teachings
of their prophet Mohammed,
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Cairo has been a leading city
in the Muslim world.
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♪♪
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And today, Cairo's known as
the city of a thousand minarets.
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Stepping into Al Hussein mosque,
like any neighborhood mosque,
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you'll find
a worshipful tranquility.
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It's believed that resting here
invigorates the soul.
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There's more intensity around
the adjacent shrine, believed
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to contain a sacred relic --
the head of Al Hussein ibn Ali,
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a grandson
of the Prophet Mohammed.
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In a mosque, men and women
worship separately.
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As praying can be physical,
with lots of bending over,
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it's considered more respectful
to allow woman their own space.
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I find that a respectful tourist
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is welcome to be
a part of the scene.
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♪♪
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Along with minarets,
you'll see church spires,
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especially in Cairo's
Coptic quarter.
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While Egypt is
predominantly Muslim,
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today about 10%
of the country is Christian.
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The Egyptian, or
"Coptic," Church
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actually predates Islam
by six centuries.
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Because they worship
in an orthodox style,
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stepping into a Coptic Mass
is like going back in time.
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The faithful believe
that when Mary, Joseph,
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and baby Jesus escaped Herod
and came to Egypt,
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this very spot
is where they took refuge.
04:46.933 --> 04:50.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Later, in 43 A.D., it's believed
the Evangelist Mark
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came to Egypt and
established the Coptic Church.
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Mark was their first pope
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and the first in an
unbroken line of Coptic popes
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stretching back
nearly 2,000 years.
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The Coptic quarter
comes with high security.
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Throughout Egypt, travelers
will notice armed guards,
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security barriers, and
a high-profile police presence.
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These are reminders
of a pent-up tension
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in Egyptian society.
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They reveal the challenges
Egyptian democracy faces today.
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While many modern Muslims
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would prefer a separation
of mosque and state,
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others believe Egypt
should be ruled in accordance
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with a strict interpretation
of the Quran.
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Religious fundamentalism
is a challenge here
05:40.833 --> 05:44.233 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
as it is in America.
05:44.300 --> 05:45.733 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
Cairo is intense.
05:45.800 --> 05:47.100 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
I love traveling here,
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but I do it with safety
and sanity in mind.
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While prices on the street
may be cheap,
05:52.166 --> 05:55.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
if you want rich-world comfort,
you'll pay rich-world prices.
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I sleep in an
international-class hotel.
05:58.400 --> 06:00.766 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
It comes with
first-class security.
06:00.833 --> 06:02.900 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
I hope the future
will be more relaxed.
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But for now, I splurge
for the peace of mind.
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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The people of today's Egypt
represent the latest chapter
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in a story
that goes back 5,000 years.
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Even if you don't understand its
long and complicated history,
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just observing how old
and new come together
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is rewarding to the traveler.
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Egypt's heritage goes back
twice as far as ancient Rome.
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And ancient Egypt --
that's what draws the tourists.
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♪♪
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The iconic sights of Egypt,
4,000 or 5,000 years old,
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are basically buildings
and art for dead people.
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Back then, they believed
you could take it with you,
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and your big challenge:
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to be sure your body
and your valuables
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survived the journey
into the afterlife.
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That's why, if you had
the power and money,
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you'd lock everything up
in a big tomb -- a pyramid.
07:19.266 --> 07:23.300 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
These are the most famous --
the Pyramids of Giza.
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♪♪
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But the oldest pyramid
is actually nearby at Saqqara,
07:29.466 --> 07:33.333 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
the tomb of the king
or pharaoh named Zoser.
07:33.400 --> 07:38.433 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
This structure, which marked
his tomb, is a "step pyramid."
07:38.500 --> 07:41.300 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
Dating from around 2600 B.C.,
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it's a century older than its
more famous sisters at Giza.
07:45.533 --> 07:48.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
This first-ever towering
stone structure
07:48.400 --> 07:50.933 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
is more than
just a grave marker.
07:51.000 --> 07:53.033 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
With an innovative stacking
of layers,
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it provided a new way
to glorify a king --
07:55.866 --> 07:59.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
creating a stairway to eternity.
07:59.300 --> 08:01.833 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
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A visit to Cairo's
Egyptian Museum
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helps bring the country's
many ancient sights to life.
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Along with the Grand
Egyptian Museum at Giza,
08:10.533 --> 08:12.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
this museum shows off
the best collection
08:12.900 --> 08:15.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
of ancient Egyptian art
anywhere.
08:15.400 --> 08:18.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The core of the collection, art
from the age of the pharaohs,
08:18.966 --> 08:24.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
dates from about 3000
to 1000 B.C.
08:24.533 --> 08:28.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Nearly everything filling these
old halls is funerary art,
08:28.233 --> 08:31.300 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
art designed to help save
the souls of the pharaohs --
08:31.366 --> 08:34.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
statues filled with symbolism,
written prayers,
08:34.566 --> 08:36.200 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
and offerings
to deal with the gods
08:36.266 --> 08:39.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
and help assure a happy
transition into the afterlife.
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♪♪
08:41.966 --> 08:44.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
This ancient art
is so well-preserved
08:44.333 --> 08:47.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
because most of it was
hidden away for 4,000 years,
08:47.733 --> 08:51.800 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
dark and dry, in tombs.
08:51.866 --> 08:55.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
This portrayal of geese
from 2500 B.C.
08:55.133 --> 08:57.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
is perhaps the oldest
surviving painting.
08:58.000 --> 09:01.100 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
09:01.166 --> 09:03.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
This "seated scribe"
recalls the importance
09:03.666 --> 09:05.033 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
of the educated elite
09:05.100 --> 09:09.833 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
in the court
of an often-illiterate king.
09:09.900 --> 09:11.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
And this couple,
a husband and wife,
09:11.766 --> 09:14.066 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
was also found in a tomb.
09:14.133 --> 09:16.100 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
It's all art for the dead,
09:16.166 --> 09:20.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
locked up until rediscovered
in modern times.
09:20.633 --> 09:24.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Many mummies patiently
await your visit.
09:24.133 --> 09:26.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Ancient Egyptians
preserved bodies
09:26.266 --> 09:29.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
through a complex process
of mummification in hopes
09:29.566 --> 09:33.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
that the soul could re-inhabit
it in the next world.
09:33.900 --> 09:35.900 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
And the coffins were
elaborately painted
09:35.966 --> 09:38.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
with an inventory of things
that, hopefully,
09:38.133 --> 09:40.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
would accompany the body,
and with prayers,
09:41.033 --> 09:45.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
to be sure all went as planned.
09:45.433 --> 09:48.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The art looks essentially the
same from century to century.
09:48.800 --> 09:52.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
A remarkable thing about
ancient Egyptian art and society
09:52.166 --> 09:54.800 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
as a whole was its stability.
09:54.866 --> 09:58.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
For 2,000 years --
from 3000 to 1000 B.C. --
09:58.766 --> 10:01.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
relative to other times
and other cultures,
10:01.666 --> 10:04.000 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
very little changed.
10:04.066 --> 10:09.233 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
10:09.300 --> 10:11.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Religion permeated
Egyptian society.
10:11.933 --> 10:14.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
As long as things were going
reasonably well,
10:14.166 --> 10:16.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
the gods were happy,
and it was status quo.
10:17.033 --> 10:18.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Every year the Nile would flood,
10:18.700 --> 10:21.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
bringing water and fertile silt
to the land.
10:21.333 --> 10:23.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
When the gods are happy,
the people have food,
10:23.800 --> 10:25.933 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
and you don't change things.
10:26.000 --> 10:28.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
And the pharaoh
was considered a god.
10:28.366 --> 10:31.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
If your leader is a god,
you question nothing.
10:31.566 --> 10:33.000 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
You obey the rules.
10:33.066 --> 10:35.633 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
Things stay the same.
10:35.700 --> 10:37.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Akhenaten was the one exception
10:38.000 --> 10:41.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
in a 2,000-year line
of conformist pharaohs.
10:41.333 --> 10:44.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Rather than the same,
predictable idealized features,
10:44.900 --> 10:48.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Akhenaten had his own
voluptuous looks,
10:48.466 --> 10:51.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
from a strangely curvaceous body
10:51.433 --> 10:54.633 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
to big, sensuous lips.
10:54.700 --> 10:57.200 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
Ruling around 1400 B.C.,
10:57.266 --> 11:00.433 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
he was considered
history's first monotheist.
11:00.500 --> 11:03.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Akhenaten replaced all the gods
of the Egyptian pantheon
11:03.766 --> 11:06.133 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
with one all-powerful being,
11:06.200 --> 11:10.433 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
the sun god,
whom he called "Aten."
11:10.500 --> 11:13.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
In reliefs from the reign
of Akhenaten we see Aten,
11:14.000 --> 11:16.800 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
the sun,
shining down on everything.
11:16.866 --> 11:18.733 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
During the time of Akhenaten,
11:18.800 --> 11:22.600 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
people were portrayed looser,
more intimately.
11:22.666 --> 11:24.733 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
Casual family scenes --
11:24.800 --> 11:27.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
must be from the time
of Akhenaten.
11:27.433 --> 11:29.700 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
11:29.766 --> 11:32.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
As always, I appreciate
the services of a guide,
11:32.566 --> 11:35.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
so I'll understand the symbolism
and know what to look for.
11:35.766 --> 11:40.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
So, we're joined by my friend
and fellow guide, Marwa Abbas.
11:40.366 --> 11:42.633 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
She explained how lots of
ancient hieroglyphic writing
11:42.700 --> 11:44.233 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
on papyrus survives,
11:44.300 --> 11:46.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and how it helps us
better understand
11:46.300 --> 11:48.366 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
the mysteries of the pharaohs.
11:48.433 --> 11:52.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
-Papyrus is made out of the stem
of the plant papyrus,
11:52.233 --> 11:55.966 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
which is hammered,
and then it is woven,
11:56.033 --> 11:58.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and then we press it
in a pressing machine or stones
11:58.866 --> 12:01.000 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
to get those beautiful papers.
12:01.066 --> 12:02.333 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
These are the hieroglyphs,
12:02.400 --> 12:05.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
one of the most ancient
written languages
12:05.200 --> 12:07.066 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
because of which
we understood a lot
12:07.133 --> 12:10.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
about the civilization
of ancient Egypt.
12:10.800 --> 12:14.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
So, these are beautiful
paintings of the afterlife.
12:14.133 --> 12:17.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Even in the afterlife, they were
trying to bribe the gods
12:17.466 --> 12:22.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
and deities in order to
help them in the afterlife path.
12:22.066 --> 12:24.466 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Even here in front
of the judge Osiris
12:24.533 --> 12:28.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
is a big offering pile
of lotus, onions,
12:28.866 --> 12:32.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
oxen leg, as well as breads
and vegetables.
12:32.400 --> 12:35.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
-Anything to make the god happy.
-Anything to make him happy.
12:36.033 --> 12:38.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
-The son of Akhenaten
was Tutankhamen,
12:38.900 --> 12:41.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
perhaps the most famous pharaoh.
12:41.633 --> 12:43.433 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
A highlight
of the museum's collection
12:43.500 --> 12:46.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
is a section filled
with King Tut's treasures,
12:46.666 --> 12:49.566 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
from his splendid coffin
12:49.633 --> 12:51.600 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
to his jewelry.
12:51.666 --> 12:52.900 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
This is exquisite.
12:52.966 --> 12:54.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-It is a beautiful piece
of the jewelry
12:55.033 --> 12:58.600 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
of Tutankhamen
around the year 1300 B.C.
12:58.666 --> 13:02.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
made out gold, turquoise,
lapis lazuli,
13:02.166 --> 13:04.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and you can see the beautiful
symbolism over here
13:04.800 --> 13:06.466 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
where you can see the scarab,
13:06.533 --> 13:09.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
the sign of existence,
as well as the sun disc.
13:09.933 --> 13:12.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The cobra is wearing the crowns
of upper and lower Egypt
13:13.033 --> 13:17.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
as well as the ankh,
symbol of life.
13:17.266 --> 13:19.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
The ancient Egyptians
used to mummify their bodies
13:19.866 --> 13:22.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
and also mummified their organs.
13:22.100 --> 13:26.366 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
King Tutankhamen
around the year 1300 B.C.
13:26.433 --> 13:30.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
had his organs inside
this beautiful alabaster box,
13:30.266 --> 13:35.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and that was also inside
a wooden gilded beautiful box
13:35.400 --> 13:39.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
that had the surroundings of the
four goddesses for protection.
13:39.766 --> 13:42.033 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
So it was always
about protection.
13:42.100 --> 13:43.933 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
13:44.000 --> 13:46.333 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
-The mask of Tut
looks like his face
13:46.400 --> 13:51.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
so his soul could recognize him
on his journey to the afterlife.
13:51.100 --> 13:52.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Placed over the head
of his mummy,
13:52.833 --> 13:55.500 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
it was 24 pounds of gold,
13:55.566 --> 13:58.633 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
with a cobra and a vulture
to symbolize the united kingdom
13:58.700 --> 14:03.233 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
of both Upper and Lower Egypt,
which Tut proudly ruled.
14:03.300 --> 14:06.266 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
14:06.333 --> 14:09.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
After the museum, Cairo's
characteristic old quarter
14:09.666 --> 14:13.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
is a colorful celebration
of today's Egypt.
14:13.200 --> 14:16.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Khan Al-Khalili is the megamall
of medieval bazaars.
14:17.000 --> 14:19.700 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
600 years ago,
it was a caravanserai --
14:19.766 --> 14:22.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
a stop on a caravan trade route.
14:22.100 --> 14:23.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Then, when the Ottoman Turks
took Egypt,
14:23.966 --> 14:27.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
it became a bustling
Turkish bazaar.
14:27.266 --> 14:30.066 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Today it's a stop
for every tour group,
14:30.133 --> 14:32.033 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
and the merchants
are standing by...
14:32.100 --> 14:34.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-How are you?
How can I take your money?
14:34.500 --> 14:36.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
-...eager to charm you
into a little shopping.
14:37.033 --> 14:38.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-Welcome. Just have a look here.
14:38.266 --> 14:40.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Everything is free.
Welcome to Egypt.
14:40.633 --> 14:43.600 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
-Today, 100% discount,
because today my birthday.
14:43.666 --> 14:45.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-Buy one, two free today.
Cheap, cheap.
14:45.966 --> 14:48.233 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
-No money, no honey. No cry.
14:48.300 --> 14:51.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-The hustlers can be intense
and annoying...
14:51.300 --> 14:53.733 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
or fun, depending
on your approach.
14:53.800 --> 14:57.733 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
-Hello, my friend!
Hello! Good morning.
14:57.800 --> 15:01.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-Dive in, with a sense of humor.
15:01.200 --> 15:04.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Bargaining is expected
in Egyptian markets.
15:04.166 --> 15:05.500 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
Treat it as a game.
15:05.566 --> 15:09.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Never feel sorry for,
or obligated to, the merchant.
15:09.200 --> 15:10.566 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
If you see something you like,
15:10.633 --> 15:13.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
show some interest and see
how low you can get the price.
15:13.533 --> 15:14.900 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
-Here, your size.
15:14.966 --> 15:16.900 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
-Maybe 5 dollars.
15:16.966 --> 15:19.000 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
-Big size, you know.
-[ Laughs ]
15:19.066 --> 15:21.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
-Give me 5 dollars.
Okay, give me 5 dollars.
15:21.566 --> 15:24.866 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
Come on.
OK, you can buy it.
15:24.933 --> 15:28.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-Cairo's a fascinating clash
between traditional and modern,
15:28.400 --> 15:30.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
religious and secular,
east and west.
15:31.033 --> 15:33.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
While its chaos can be
exasperating,
15:33.466 --> 15:35.600 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
it can also be
a rewarding challenge
15:35.666 --> 15:38.166 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
for the adventurous traveler.
15:38.233 --> 15:40.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
I find that simply venturing
a few blocks away
15:40.966 --> 15:42.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
from the tourist-friendly
bazaar...
15:42.800 --> 15:44.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
suddenly, the tourists are gone,
15:45.000 --> 15:49.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and I'm swallowed up
in a completely local scene.
15:49.200 --> 15:51.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Wandering through the colorful
market streets
15:51.133 --> 15:53.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
here in Cairo's Islamic quarter,
15:53.600 --> 15:56.633 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
you feel that
it goes on forever.
15:56.700 --> 15:59.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Three-wheeled tuk-tuks
weave through the action.
16:00.000 --> 16:01.633 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
[ Horn beeps ]
16:01.700 --> 16:04.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
I love to hop in one
for a quick joyride.
16:05.000 --> 16:07.000 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
There's something
strangely graceful
16:07.066 --> 16:09.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
about this chaotic dance
of careening vehicles,
16:09.833 --> 16:12.200 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
merchants, and pedestrians.
16:12.266 --> 16:16.733 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
16:16.800 --> 16:21.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Exploring the Islamic Quarter
creates a montage of memories.
16:21.366 --> 16:23.300 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
It's a commotion of activity.
16:23.366 --> 16:26.466 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Everywhere you look, something
you've never seen before
16:26.533 --> 16:28.166 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
is happening.
16:28.233 --> 16:32.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Somehow, bikers balance
rustic racks of bread.
16:33.033 --> 16:34.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Craftsmen inscribe
marble tombstones
16:35.000 --> 16:38.500 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
with verses
from the Holy Quran --
16:38.566 --> 16:41.066 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
"The peaceful soul,
after a blessed life,
16:41.133 --> 16:43.633 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
will finally rest in heaven".
16:43.700 --> 16:45.200 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
With a little effort,
16:45.266 --> 16:50.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
you'll find it can be easy
to become part of the scene.
16:50.300 --> 16:54.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
In this shop, a man spins
delicate strands of flour
16:54.300 --> 17:01.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
that will become a favorite
local pastry, kanafeh.
17:01.133 --> 17:03.966 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The classic street food here
is koshary:
17:04.033 --> 17:07.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
lentil, rice, pasta, garlic,
and tomato sauce,
17:07.633 --> 17:10.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
all mixed together
into a quick and cheap treat.
17:10.700 --> 17:12.700 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
[ Metal utensils banging ]
17:12.766 --> 17:16.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The distinctive clanging
stokes local appetites.
17:16.400 --> 17:21.433 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
17:21.500 --> 17:23.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
And small bakeries
are steadily producing
17:23.766 --> 17:25.933 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
hot balloons of pita bread,
17:26.000 --> 17:30.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
destined to be filled
with falafel.
17:30.166 --> 17:33.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Bread is subsidized by the
government to make life easier
17:33.333 --> 17:36.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
for people struggling
to feed their families.
17:36.400 --> 17:40.666 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
17:40.733 --> 17:42.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Walking through neighborhoods
like this,
17:42.600 --> 17:46.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
you gain an appreciation
for how just making ends meet
17:46.400 --> 17:52.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
is a daily struggle for millions
in a teeming city like Cairo.
17:52.100 --> 17:57.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
I make a point to explore
a variety of neighborhoods.
17:57.066 --> 17:59.566 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Here in Egypt,
like almost anywhere,
17:59.633 --> 18:02.533 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
there's a big gap
between rich and poor.
18:02.600 --> 18:04.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
In the relative cool
of the evening,
18:04.833 --> 18:07.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
the prosperous streets
of downtown are filled
18:07.800 --> 18:11.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
with window shoppers
and thriving eateries --
18:11.233 --> 18:14.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
clearly a world for Egypt's
more privileged class.
18:15.000 --> 18:17.200 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
18:17.266 --> 18:20.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
And gated social clubs
in a place like Egypt provide
18:20.366 --> 18:23.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
a refuge where the wealthy
can live in a parallel world,
18:23.900 --> 18:27.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
protected from the gritty
reality of the streets.
18:27.300 --> 18:30.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
My friend Tarek, who runs
a successful tour company,
18:30.100 --> 18:32.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
has invited me out
for the evening.
18:32.266 --> 18:35.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Tarek grew up as a member here,
he met his wife here,
18:35.633 --> 18:39.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
and today their children enjoy
this privileged environment
18:39.266 --> 18:42.133 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
almost daily.
18:42.200 --> 18:46.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
These clubs have something
for all generations --
18:46.266 --> 18:51.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
birthday parties, playgrounds,
competitive sports.
18:51.800 --> 18:53.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Adults can retreat
to the no-kids zone
18:53.766 --> 18:55.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
to play a quiet game of croquet
18:55.833 --> 18:57.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
with friends they've been
socializing here with
18:57.733 --> 18:59.700 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
since childhood,
18:59.766 --> 19:02.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
or just to watch
from the peaceful terrace.
19:05.033 --> 19:08.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
We finish our evening just down
the street at Tarek's home,
19:08.100 --> 19:10.266 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
joining his family for dinner.
19:10.333 --> 19:12.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
So, how do you say -- In France,
you would say, "bon appétit."
19:13.033 --> 19:14.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-Bon appétit.
-In Arabic?
19:14.900 --> 19:16.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
-Bailhana’ walshifa’.
-Bailhana’ --
19:16.933 --> 19:18.100 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
-Bailhana’ walshifa’.
19:18.166 --> 19:20.666 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-Bailhana’ --
-Bailhana’ walshifa’.
19:20.733 --> 19:22.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-That's very difficult.
Bon appétit.
19:22.366 --> 19:23.833 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
[ Laughter ]
-It's easier.
19:23.900 --> 19:26.366 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:30%
-I think so.
19:26.433 --> 19:29.400 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Heba, this is so beautiful.
19:29.466 --> 19:32.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Can you give me please a tour of
this beautiful Egyptian meal?
19:32.600 --> 19:35.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-Sure. This is moussaka.
-Okay.
19:35.700 --> 19:37.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
-This is the stuffed
vine leaves.
19:37.633 --> 19:39.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
-Stuffed vine leaves.
-Okay,
19:39.133 --> 19:41.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and this is okra
with tomato sauce.
19:41.566 --> 19:44.400 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
-Okra. Nice.
-Very delicious,
19:44.466 --> 19:48.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and this is Egyptian beef
with onion sauce,
19:48.500 --> 19:51.000 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
and this is of course, rice.
19:51.066 --> 19:53.266 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
This is rokak.
19:53.333 --> 19:54.600 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
-Rokak. What is rokak?
19:54.666 --> 19:58.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
-It is some kind of pastry
stuffed with mincemeat.
19:58.233 --> 19:59.633 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:17.5%
-And --
-And tzatziki.
19:59.700 --> 20:00.733 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
-Tzatziki.
So we have moussaka --
20:00.800 --> 20:02.433 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
-Common between us
and the Greeks, yes.
20:02.500 --> 20:04.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
-I was going to say, moussaka,
stuffed grape leaves,
20:04.966 --> 20:06.666 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
and tzatziki.
-Yeah.
20:06.733 --> 20:08.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
-A Greek would say,
"That's my food."
20:08.500 --> 20:09.566 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
It's Egyptian, also?
20:09.633 --> 20:12.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-We cook it differently.
-Okay.
20:12.666 --> 20:16.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
There we go. Thank you. Shukran.
20:16.300 --> 20:21.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
So, is it normal for children
to speak English and Egyptian?
20:21.266 --> 20:23.766 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
-Actually, if they're
in international school.
20:23.833 --> 20:25.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
-Yeah. And your kids go to
an international school.
20:25.933 --> 20:27.266 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
-Yes, American ones.
20:27.333 --> 20:29.400 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
-Sometimes on Friday
or Thursday,
20:29.466 --> 20:31.666 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
we watch on the TV, Netflix,
20:31.733 --> 20:34.800 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
we choose an English movie.
-You can choose,
20:34.866 --> 20:36.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Egyptian or English?
-Yeah.
20:36.333 --> 20:37.633 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
-Family movie!
20:37.700 --> 20:40.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
-Family movie! Every Thursday
night is family movie.
20:41.033 --> 20:44.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-And, Heba, what do you wish
for your daughters,
20:44.400 --> 20:46.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
to be successful
and to be happy?
20:46.333 --> 20:49.566 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
-Mm, to have good faith,
20:49.633 --> 20:53.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
good education as well,
to be open-minded,
20:54.000 --> 20:55.733 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
self-confident.
-Beautiful.
20:55.800 --> 20:57.066 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
I think you're on
the right road.
20:57.133 --> 20:58.100 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
I think you're
on the right road.
20:58.166 --> 21:00.500 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
[ Chuckles ]
-I hope so. I hope so.
21:00.566 --> 21:02.066 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
-That's lovely.
21:03.733 --> 21:11.100 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
21:11.166 --> 21:12.766 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
Cairo sprawls.
21:12.833 --> 21:15.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
It's a jam-packed city
of over 20 million.
21:16.033 --> 21:18.766 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Massive blocks
of apartment flats spring up,
21:18.833 --> 21:20.733 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
many violating building codes,
21:20.800 --> 21:23.700 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
to congest
the ever-growing suburbs.
21:23.766 --> 21:25.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Driving through
half an hour of this,
21:25.500 --> 21:27.000 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
we finally reach the desert
21:27.066 --> 21:30.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and the sight that draws
most tourists to Egypt --
21:30.866 --> 21:33.166 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
the Pyramids at Giza,
21:33.233 --> 21:37.900 align:start position:15% line:10% size:70%
one of the most recognizable
scenes in all of tourism.
21:37.966 --> 21:41.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Towering before us are the tombs
of three great kings,
21:41.266 --> 21:42.700 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
or "pharaohs."
21:42.766 --> 21:45.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
These monuments were built
to mark and to protect
21:45.833 --> 21:50.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
the bodies of fabulously wealthy
and powerful pharaohs.
21:50.833 --> 21:52.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
They spent a good part
of their lives
21:52.633 --> 21:55.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and their kingdom's wealth
building huge pyramids,
21:55.233 --> 21:56.533 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
which served as lockers
21:56.600 --> 21:59.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
for whatever they wanted
to take into the afterlife --
21:59.166 --> 22:03.366 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
their bodies, their treasures,
even their favorite pets.
22:03.433 --> 22:05.300 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
The pyramid
of the pharaoh Cheops
22:05.366 --> 22:06.900 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
is the only survivor
22:06.966 --> 22:09.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
of the Seven Wonders
of the Ancient World.
22:10.033 --> 22:14.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
This grandest of all pyramids,
700 feet long on each side,
22:14.733 --> 22:18.100 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
was built
2,500 years before Christ.
22:18.166 --> 22:21.233 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
22:21.300 --> 22:22.633 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
The neighboring pyramids
22:22.700 --> 22:26.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
are likely those of
Cheops' son and grandson.
22:26.366 --> 22:27.700 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
The smaller ones?
22:27.766 --> 22:32.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
They're for the wives
and daughters.
22:32.066 --> 22:35.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Experts guess that with 10,000
laborers hard at work,
22:35.400 --> 22:39.400 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
it took 20 years
to build the pyramid of Cheops.
22:39.466 --> 22:40.833 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
According to my abacus,
22:40.900 --> 22:44.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
that's 200,000 man-years
of hard labor.
22:44.833 --> 22:47.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Workers dragged over 2 million
huge stones up ramps,
22:48.000 --> 22:52.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
eventually constructing
this 450-foot-high monument.
22:52.866 --> 22:54.566 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
In their day,
the pyramids were encased
22:54.633 --> 22:58.633 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
in a shiny limestone veneer.
22:58.700 --> 23:02.066 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
I sure hope
Cheops was satisfied.
23:02.133 --> 23:04.700 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
23:04.766 --> 23:06.933 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
Long, secret corridors,
23:07.000 --> 23:09.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
originally blocked
by sliding stones,
23:09.433 --> 23:13.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
lead to the tomb chamber deep
in the center of each pyramid.
23:13.400 --> 23:14.900 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
Climbing this passage,
23:14.966 --> 23:20.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
you marvel at the design
and the audacity of the project.
23:20.133 --> 23:22.166 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Finally, reaching
the burial room,
23:22.233 --> 23:25.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
you're hit by the thought
that this was the most sacred
23:25.400 --> 23:26.933 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
and precious chamber
23:27.000 --> 23:31.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
in the ancient world,
silent for 4,000 years --
23:31.566 --> 23:36.700 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
until the arrival of tourism.
23:36.766 --> 23:40.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
This is it: the center
of this massive pyramid.
23:40.100 --> 23:43.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The pharaoh's mummy was put
in this stone sarcophagus.
23:43.666 --> 23:46.400 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The sarcophagus is bigger
than the passageway,
23:46.466 --> 23:48.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
so this must have
been here first,
23:48.166 --> 23:50.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and then the pyramid
built around it.
23:50.600 --> 23:54.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
This huge chamber was filled
with treasures.
23:54.133 --> 23:56.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
A little shaft was designed
into the pyramid
23:56.700 --> 24:01.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
to provide an escape passage
for the soul of the pharaoh.
24:01.266 --> 24:04.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
For the pharaoh, the most
important treasure was his soul,
24:04.333 --> 24:08.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
which needed to be free
for the ascent to the afterlife.
24:08.433 --> 24:11.666 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
24:11.733 --> 24:14.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
Back outside,
complementing the scene,
24:14.466 --> 24:16.400 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
is the mysterious Sphinx.
24:16.466 --> 24:18.133 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
As old as the pyramids,
24:18.200 --> 24:20.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
it was carved out of
a piece of hard rock
24:20.366 --> 24:22.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
that stuck above
the limestone plateau.
24:23.033 --> 24:25.066 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
24:25.133 --> 24:28.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
With the body of a lion
and the head of a king, or god,
24:28.366 --> 24:30.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
it came to symbolize both
strength and wisdom
24:30.900 --> 24:34.100 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
as it faces east
and the rising sun.
24:34.166 --> 24:37.100 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
24:37.166 --> 24:40.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
But we're heading north, down
the Nile to Egypt's second city,
24:40.566 --> 24:43.900 align:start position:32.5% line:10% size:32.5%
which lies on
the Mediterranean coast.
24:43.966 --> 24:47.866 align:start position:12.5% line:10% size:75%
Alexandria is one of the great
cities of the Mediterranean.
24:47.933 --> 24:50.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
It was Egypt's capital
for almost 1,000 years
24:50.900 --> 24:54.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
until the Muslims came
in the 7th century.
24:54.933 --> 24:57.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Not as big as Cairo,
it faces the Mediterranean,
24:58.033 --> 25:02.333 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
has milder weather,
and feels a bit more European.
25:02.400 --> 25:06.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Alexandria is a thriving
port town with a busy harbor.
25:06.800 --> 25:08.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Fishermen, as they have
since ancient times,
25:08.966 --> 25:11.366 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
harvest the sea
to help feed the city
25:11.433 --> 25:15.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
while taking advantage
of this safe haven.
25:15.266 --> 25:18.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The harborfront corniche is
lined with cafes, restaurants,
25:18.833 --> 25:21.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and people out
enjoying the scene.
25:21.466 --> 25:24.700 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Strolling here in the cooler
hours of the early evening,
25:24.766 --> 25:27.800 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
you appreciate
the inviting ambiance.
25:27.866 --> 25:32.633 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
25:32.700 --> 25:35.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
This beach-side café
has a relaxed vibe,
25:35.900 --> 25:39.000 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
not unlike other Mediterranean
towns I've enjoyed.
25:39.066 --> 25:42.066 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
25:42.133 --> 25:45.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Alexandria can feel spirited,
young, and progressive.
25:45.766 --> 25:47.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
In fact, this city
helped spearhead
25:47.933 --> 25:52.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Egypt's Arab Spring Revolution
back in 2011.
25:52.600 --> 25:56.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The populace is an intriguing
blend of conservative,
25:56.133 --> 25:58.266 align:start position:40% line:84.66% size:17.5%
modern,
25:58.333 --> 26:00.433 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:25%
religious,
26:00.500 --> 26:02.433 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:30%
and hipster.
26:02.500 --> 26:04.366 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
The city has a chaotic energy
26:04.433 --> 26:07.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
exceeding anything
I've experienced in Europe.
26:07.333 --> 26:09.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
With the constant beeping
of passing traffic,
26:09.833 --> 26:12.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
its center is a carnival
of commercial life.
26:12.966 --> 26:15.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Scenes like this are why
many come to Egypt
26:15.933 --> 26:17.866 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
and why many don't.
26:17.933 --> 26:21.400 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
26:21.466 --> 26:25.800 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
This urban commotion literally
sits upon lots of history.
26:25.866 --> 26:27.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
But -- apart from this ancient
Roman theater,
26:28.033 --> 26:29.933 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
which dates
from the 4th century --
26:30.000 --> 26:32.033 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
very little survives.
26:32.100 --> 26:35.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
It's mostly destroyed,
in the sea,
26:35.333 --> 26:38.066 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
or buried under today's city.
26:38.133 --> 26:42.100 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
26:42.166 --> 26:44.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Alexandria was named
by Alexander the Great,
26:44.766 --> 26:47.433 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
who founded it in 331 B.C.
26:47.500 --> 26:49.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
It became one of the great
cities of antiquity
26:49.733 --> 26:52.166 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
with a population
of several hundred thousand.
26:52.233 --> 26:54.433 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Queen Cleopatra ruled Egypt
from here --
26:54.500 --> 26:55.833 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
when the city rivaled Rome
26:55.900 --> 26:58.000 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
as a cultural
and intellectual capital
26:58.066 --> 26:59.666 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
of the Mediterranean world.
26:59.733 --> 27:03.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
And it's here that St. Mark
introduced Christianity to Egypt
27:03.900 --> 27:06.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
establishing what, to this day,
27:06.100 --> 27:09.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
is the "Coptic,"
or Egyptian, church.
27:09.766 --> 27:11.500 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Ancient Alexandria was home
27:11.566 --> 27:13.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
to two of antiquity's
greatest sights,
27:13.933 --> 27:15.800 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
neither of which survive --
27:15.866 --> 27:19.366 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
a huge library,
and an awe-inspiring lighthouse,
27:19.433 --> 27:21.300 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
one of the wonders
of the ancient world,
27:21.366 --> 27:24.000 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
built in around 300 B.C.
27:24.066 --> 27:26.266 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
27:26.333 --> 27:27.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Imagine the lighthouse
which stood
27:27.600 --> 27:29.266 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
at the mouth of the harbor.
27:29.333 --> 27:31.266 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
It was so tall
that light from its fire
27:31.333 --> 27:33.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
could be seen from
30 miles out at sea.
27:34.000 --> 27:36.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
After guiding ships from
across the Mediterranean
27:36.666 --> 27:39.200 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
safely into port
for 15 centuries,
27:39.266 --> 27:41.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
in about the year 1300,
an earthquake hit,
27:42.033 --> 27:44.800 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
and it tumbled into the sea.
27:44.866 --> 27:48.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Today, a 500-year-old
fortress marks the spot.
27:48.133 --> 27:50.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
In fact, it's said that many of
the stones from the lighthouse
27:50.966 --> 27:53.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
were dredged out of the sea
to help build it.
27:53.566 --> 27:56.000 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
27:56.066 --> 27:57.433 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
While the ancient lighthouse
27:57.500 --> 28:01.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
guided friendly ships
in to Alexandria,
28:01.133 --> 28:04.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
centuries later, this fort
was designed to keep enemies,
28:04.933 --> 28:07.666 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
like the Ottoman Turks, out.
28:09.933 --> 28:11.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
And Alexandria was famously home
28:11.933 --> 28:15.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
to perhaps the greatest library
in the ancient world.
28:15.433 --> 28:17.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
No ship was allowed to dock here
28:17.366 --> 28:19.733 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
without giving up its books
to be copied.
28:19.800 --> 28:22.200 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
Tragically,
about 2,000 years ago,
28:22.266 --> 28:24.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
that amazing repository
of knowledge
28:24.633 --> 28:26.466 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
was burned and destroyed.
28:26.533 --> 28:31.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Today, its legacy survives
in the city's modern library.
28:31.533 --> 28:33.633 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
Built in the year 2001,
28:33.700 --> 28:35.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
walls are inscribed
with characters
28:35.800 --> 28:39.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
of the world's languages
through the ages.
28:39.233 --> 28:41.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
An inviting gathering point
for Alexandrians,
28:41.966 --> 28:44.966 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
the library feels promising,
perhaps offering a chance
28:45.033 --> 28:49.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
to see the next generation
of this country's leaders.
28:49.933 --> 28:52.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The interior is welcoming
and airy, with space
28:52.200 --> 28:57.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
for hundreds of readers
to sit in its main reading room.
28:57.366 --> 28:59.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
History has been harsh
on the city,
28:59.233 --> 29:02.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
with its population shrinking
to a low of around 10,000
29:02.500 --> 29:04.233 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
in the 18th century.
29:04.300 --> 29:05.733 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
Then, in the 19th century,
29:05.800 --> 29:07.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
when it welcomed
enterprising foreigners
29:07.933 --> 29:09.400 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
from around the Mediterranean,
29:09.466 --> 29:11.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Alexandria enjoyed a resurgence,
29:11.866 --> 29:15.100 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
becoming one of the liveliest
ports on the Mediterranean.
29:15.166 --> 29:18.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The corniche was lined
by fine Art Deco buildings
29:18.066 --> 29:19.966 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
from the early 20th century.
29:20.033 --> 29:24.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
And grand European-style
boulevards graced the city.
29:24.633 --> 29:29.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Today, Alexandria's century-old
European grandness is fading.
29:29.433 --> 29:31.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Caked in this generation's grime
29:31.300 --> 29:33.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
as the city's population
has exploded,
29:33.600 --> 29:36.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
it's become a thoroughly
Egyptian metropolis
29:36.266 --> 29:39.466 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
of over 5 million.
29:39.533 --> 29:43.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The cityscape includes a gritty
yet somehow beautiful commotion
29:43.200 --> 29:46.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
of towering and densely
inhabited apartment flats
29:46.200 --> 29:51.066 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
that face the sea,
glowing with every sunset.
29:51.133 --> 29:52.866 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
29:55.600 --> 29:58.566 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
For me, no visit to Alexandria
is complete
29:58.633 --> 30:02.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
without venturing into
its ramshackle market district.
30:02.466 --> 30:04.300 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
While you can buy
just about anything
30:04.366 --> 30:06.433 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
in these thriving
and exotic streets,
30:06.500 --> 30:08.733 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
there's also
a strong sense of community
30:08.800 --> 30:12.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
that naturally comes
with such population density.
30:12.600 --> 30:15.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
And, to better enjoy
this convivial scene,
30:15.266 --> 30:17.866 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
I'm joined
by my Egyptian friend, Tarek,
30:17.933 --> 30:20.466 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
in a classic shisha joint.
30:20.533 --> 30:23.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
As I've done in Turkey and
elsewhere in the Middle East,
30:23.300 --> 30:25.400 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
I occasionally enjoy
this traditional
30:25.466 --> 30:27.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
and very social form of smoking.
30:27.433 --> 30:28.933 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:27.5%
-Nice, huh?
30:29.000 --> 30:32.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
-This is a beautiful scene.
It's easy to relax here.
30:32.166 --> 30:34.766 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-So relaxing,
comfortable, peace.
30:34.833 --> 30:36.533 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
-A lot of people
in the United States,
30:36.600 --> 30:40.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
they say this would be a
"hookah" or a "hubbly bubbly."
30:40.066 --> 30:43.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
What is this in Egypt?
-Shisha. It's called shisha.
30:43.166 --> 30:47.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Yeah, and few people now call it
hookah, hubbly bubbly, nargile.
30:47.533 --> 30:49.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
-Is it some tobacco,
or what are we smoking?
30:49.366 --> 30:53.433 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-It's a tobacco flavored
with different tastes.
30:53.500 --> 30:57.066 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Could be apple,
strawberry, mint --
30:57.133 --> 30:58.300 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:22.5%
Too many.
30:58.366 --> 31:01.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
-If I smoke and smoke and smoke,
will I get dizzy?
31:01.700 --> 31:04.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-If you spend like two or
three hours, you will get dizzy.
31:04.833 --> 31:06.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
This is one --
Finishing one of those
31:06.900 --> 31:09.400 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
is like finishing
two packets of cigarettes.
31:09.466 --> 31:11.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
-[ Coughs, laughs ]
-[ Laughs ] Sorry!
31:11.366 --> 31:13.166 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
Sorry. [ Laughs ]
31:13.233 --> 31:15.633 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
But the people aren't doing it
all the time.
31:15.700 --> 31:17.300 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
We do it casually.
Lets us vent out,
31:17.366 --> 31:19.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
be casual, socializing,
you know, talking with friends.
31:20.033 --> 31:23.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
We do it with close friends.
We vent out and talk.
31:23.533 --> 31:25.333 align:start position:42.5% line:79.33% size:15%
-Yeah.
-And have fun.
31:25.400 --> 31:26.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-While clearly Tarek could spend
31:27.033 --> 31:28.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
the rest of the evening
right here,
31:28.700 --> 31:30.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
we've got some exploring to do.
31:30.933 --> 31:33.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
A short walk is filled
with cultural serendipity.
31:34.000 --> 31:36.566 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
And we'll start with dessert.
31:36.633 --> 31:38.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
It's hard to walk by this place
31:38.433 --> 31:40.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
without enjoying
at least a taste.
31:40.300 --> 31:41.633 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
-Absolutely. And delicious.
31:41.700 --> 31:43.166 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
-That looks great.
What are these?
31:43.233 --> 31:46.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-This is sawabe’ Zainab,
"Zainab's fingers."
31:46.400 --> 31:47.800 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
-Zainab's fingers?
31:47.866 --> 31:49.000 align:start position:45% line:84.66% size:10%
-Mm.
31:49.066 --> 31:50.166 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:22.5%
-Shukran.
31:50.233 --> 31:51.133 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
-Thank you. Shukran.
31:51.200 --> 31:53.433 align:start position:42.5% line:84.66% size:12.5%
-Mmm.
31:53.500 --> 31:55.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
-The key to this kind
of sightseeing --
31:55.400 --> 31:57.133 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
have a curious spirit,
31:57.200 --> 32:00.500 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
have fun, and explore.
32:00.566 --> 32:03.166 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
These guys are
way too fast for me.
32:03.233 --> 32:05.633 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
32:05.700 --> 32:09.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The entire neighborhood is
an endlessly fascinating market,
32:09.166 --> 32:12.200 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
and it's open late.
32:12.266 --> 32:13.966 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
There's fresh bread...
32:14.033 --> 32:17.500 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
32:17.566 --> 32:19.333 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
...very fresh poultry...
32:19.400 --> 32:21.833 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
32:21.900 --> 32:24.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
...olives straight
from the desert...
32:24.433 --> 32:27.733 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
32:27.800 --> 32:29.666 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
...and something
I noticed everywhere --
32:29.733 --> 32:32.666 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
friendly and inviting people.
32:32.733 --> 32:35.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
I know about six words
of Arabic,
32:35.133 --> 32:39.000 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
but it didn't stop the smiles.
32:39.066 --> 32:41.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
You can get whatever
you need around here,
32:41.800 --> 32:44.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
including a quick trim
before dinner.
32:44.700 --> 32:50.633 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
32:50.700 --> 32:52.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Okay, we've worked up
an appetite.
32:52.333 --> 32:55.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
And Tarek knows
a great place for fish.
32:56.000 --> 32:59.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
There's no menu --
just point to what looks tasty.
32:59.933 --> 33:01.900 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
That looks good, yeah.
-Freshly caught today.
33:01.966 --> 33:03.333 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
-Oh, that looks good.
33:03.400 --> 33:05.266 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
Okay, I think that's good.
33:05.333 --> 33:06.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Alright? Thank you.
-Delicious.
33:06.800 --> 33:08.066 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
-Good. Alright.
33:08.133 --> 33:09.933 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
Bailhana’ walshifa’!
33:10.000 --> 33:11.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
What is the fish?
What am I eating here?
33:12.000 --> 33:14.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
-This is "denise"
from the Mediterranean.
33:14.333 --> 33:15.866 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
-Okay. And then --
33:15.933 --> 33:18.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-This is fried calamari
from the Mediterranean, too,
33:18.766 --> 33:20.566 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
and fried prawns.
33:20.633 --> 33:22.633 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-We dip our bread in this
and that?
33:22.700 --> 33:23.700 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
What is this one?
33:23.766 --> 33:25.833 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-That's tahini.
That's baba ghanoush.
33:25.900 --> 33:27.533 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
-This is tahini?
-Tahini, yes.
33:27.600 --> 33:29.533 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-I just go --
-Of course, yes.
33:32.133 --> 33:34.333 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-Mmm. And then,
what is this over here?
33:34.400 --> 33:35.666 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-Baba ghanoush.
-Baba ghanoush.
33:35.733 --> 33:37.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
I've heard that word, yeah.
-Yes.
33:37.166 --> 33:41.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-It's made of eggplant,
many herbs, and dill.
33:41.633 --> 33:42.933 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
Dill makes it beautiful.
33:43.000 --> 33:46.233 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
-Mmm. Oh, I like that.
Different than the tahini.
33:46.300 --> 33:47.433 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
So, what is this one?
33:47.500 --> 33:50.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-This is fried eggplant
with hot chili.
33:50.566 --> 33:53.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
-So fried eggplant, tahini,
you find this in many countries
33:53.900 --> 33:55.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
in the Mediterranean
-Absolutely,
33:55.666 --> 33:57.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and each country
will claim it's "ours."
33:57.766 --> 33:59.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
You find this in Tel Aviv --
-So, Israeli, Turkish, Greece.
33:59.566 --> 34:00.900 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:22.5%
-Turkish.
34:00.966 --> 34:02.733 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
-So today we claim
this is Egyptian.
34:02.800 --> 34:04.533 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
-This is Egyptian,
from the Mediterranean.
34:04.600 --> 34:06.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-The Mediterranean region shares
34:06.600 --> 34:09.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
many delicious
and similar dishes.
34:09.800 --> 34:11.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
What country wouldn't
want to claim this
34:11.766 --> 34:14.466 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
as their national cuisine?
34:14.533 --> 34:17.766 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
But, tonight,
it's definitely Egyptian.
34:22.800 --> 34:24.766 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
While Alexandria sits
at the delta,
34:24.833 --> 34:27.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
where the Nile flows
into the Mediterranean,
34:27.300 --> 34:30.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
we're heading south,
skipping Cairo this time,
34:30.166 --> 34:34.933 align:start position:30% line:10% size:37.5%
about 500 miles
upstream to Luxor.
34:35.000 --> 34:36.733 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Luxor, straddling the Nile,
34:36.800 --> 34:39.900 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
was for many centuries
the capital of ancient Egypt.
34:39.966 --> 34:42.333 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
It's famed
for its tombs and temples,
34:42.400 --> 34:46.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
which were mostly built
between 1500 and 1000 B.C.
34:46.733 --> 34:49.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
These were the glory days
of the pharaohs.
34:49.133 --> 34:52.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
From their palaces here, they
proudly ruled a united kingdom,
34:52.966 --> 34:56.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Upper and Lower Egypt together.
34:57.000 --> 35:00.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Luxor is a standard stop
on the tourists' itinerary.
35:00.300 --> 35:03.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
While a city of about
half a million people today,
35:03.066 --> 35:06.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Luxor feels like a tourist town
with its riverfront hotels,
35:06.933 --> 35:10.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
shops, and ancient temples
gathered along the Nile.
35:10.966 --> 35:13.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The riverbank is lined
with characteristic boats
35:14.000 --> 35:19.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
ready to ferry sightseers
to a world of ancient sights.
35:19.666 --> 35:22.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Popping into its busy market,
you find a colorful bazaar
35:22.900 --> 35:26.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
that serves both locals
and tourists.
35:26.433 --> 35:27.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The friendly welcome
is a reminder
35:28.033 --> 35:31.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
of how important tourism is
for Egypt's economy.
35:31.900 --> 35:33.800 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
The souvenir I take home --
35:33.866 --> 35:38.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
memories of so many vivid
snapshots of humanity.
35:38.300 --> 35:42.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
With the smells, the colors, the
faces, and the rich heritage,
35:42.533 --> 35:45.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
just lingering here is sensual,
35:45.433 --> 35:48.766 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
a Luxor highlight.
35:48.833 --> 35:50.066 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
While I generally avoid
35:50.133 --> 35:52.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
the touristy horse carriages
in Europe,
35:52.133 --> 35:55.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
here, they function as taxis
and feel more authentic.
35:55.833 --> 35:58.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
And it's cheap and easy
to simply hire one
35:58.433 --> 36:01.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
for a clip-clop joy ride
around town.
36:01.333 --> 36:07.166 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
36:07.233 --> 36:10.033 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Luxor's charming
riverfront promenade
36:10.100 --> 36:13.866 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
welcomes strollers enjoying
the cool of the early evening.
36:13.933 --> 36:17.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
As the sun sets, we appreciate
the timeless beauty
36:17.466 --> 36:20.066 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
of both Luxor and the Nile.
36:20.133 --> 36:28.500 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
36:31.000 --> 36:36.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
The Luxor Temple is particularly
dramatic at twilight.
36:36.633 --> 36:38.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Standing in the middle
of the city,
36:38.433 --> 36:40.200 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
it's evocatively floodlit
36:40.266 --> 36:43.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
and welcomes visitors
in the evening.
36:43.866 --> 36:46.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
The towering front wall
proclaims the power
36:46.566 --> 36:49.366 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
and greatness of the pharaohs.
36:49.433 --> 36:53.433 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
This grand entry was marked
with a pair of soaring obelisks.
36:53.500 --> 36:55.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Both still stand --
this one here,
36:55.800 --> 37:00.300 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and its sister
in far-away Paris.
37:00.366 --> 37:04.700 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
This holy complex was built
around 1300 B.C.,
37:04.766 --> 37:08.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
nearly 1,000 years before
Ancient Greece's Golden Age.
37:08.666 --> 37:11.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Egypt's temples were not
places of public worship,
37:11.733 --> 37:14.066 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
but sites of sacred mysteries,
37:14.133 --> 37:19.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
where priests and pharaohs
huddled privately with the gods.
37:19.100 --> 37:25.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Reliefs show pharaohs wooing the
gods with rituals and offerings.
37:25.833 --> 37:28.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
While the temple may have been
dedicated to the gods,
37:28.366 --> 37:31.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
it seems all the statues
celebrate the great pharaoh,
37:31.733 --> 37:34.700 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:25%
Ramses II.
37:34.766 --> 37:36.500 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
Egypt's ultimate king,
37:36.566 --> 37:39.333 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Ramses ruled for 66 years
37:39.400 --> 37:43.166 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
and did a lot of building.
37:43.233 --> 37:44.700 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
The sheer size of the complex
37:44.766 --> 37:46.633 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
with its forest
of massive columns
37:46.700 --> 37:50.433 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
leading to huge squares
is a testimony to Ramses' power
37:50.500 --> 37:52.200 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
to get things done.
37:52.266 --> 37:54.466 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
37:54.533 --> 37:56.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Evening's a great time to visit.
37:56.966 --> 38:01.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Under the stars, people wander,
learning and dreaming,
38:01.433 --> 38:05.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
wonderstruck at the
achievements of ancient Egypt.
38:10.366 --> 38:11.933 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
Luxor's other great sight --
38:12.000 --> 38:14.333 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
another magnificent
temple complex --
38:14.400 --> 38:16.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
is best enjoyed
early in the morning,
38:16.533 --> 38:19.033 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
beating the heat and crowds.
38:19.100 --> 38:20.733 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
An avenue of battered sphinxes
38:20.800 --> 38:23.300 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
leads to the awe-inspiring
main entrance,
38:23.366 --> 38:27.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
heralding the Temples of Karnak.
38:27.166 --> 38:32.366 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Karnak was the most important
place of worship in all Egypt.
38:32.433 --> 38:34.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Back when Luxor
was Egypt's capital,
38:34.866 --> 38:36.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
this sprawling complex
of temples
38:36.800 --> 38:39.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
was dedicated to
the grandiose holy family,
38:40.000 --> 38:45.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
a trinity of gods --
Amon, Mut, and Khonsu.
38:45.500 --> 38:47.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
It was built over many centuries
38:47.533 --> 38:49.766 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
throughout this
"New Kingdom" period,
38:49.833 --> 38:53.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
when most of the great
and famous kings ruled.
38:53.066 --> 38:56.566 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
38:56.633 --> 39:00.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
The Great Court is the largest
single area of the complex.
39:01.000 --> 39:04.433 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
It was used once a year
for an elaborate festival feast
39:04.500 --> 39:06.900 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
celebrating fertility --
39:06.966 --> 39:12.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
fertility of the land,
the people, and the kingdom.
39:12.933 --> 39:16.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The Great Hypostyle Hall,
with over 100 columns,
39:16.200 --> 39:19.900 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
is one of the grandest
religious structures ever built.
39:19.966 --> 39:22.000 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
39:22.066 --> 39:25.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Its forest of columns
represents papyrus plants,
39:25.266 --> 39:27.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
bulging stems
and flowering capitals,
39:27.900 --> 39:31.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
each elaborately carved
and once brightly painted.
39:31.966 --> 39:33.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
The many columns
of this vast hall
39:33.633 --> 39:36.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
once supported a stone ceiling.
39:36.533 --> 39:38.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
You can measure the
architectural sophistication
39:38.800 --> 39:42.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
of a society by the distance
it can span between columns.
39:42.700 --> 39:45.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
This was the best they could do
3,000 years ago.
39:45.833 --> 39:48.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The columns were fat
and close together,
39:48.433 --> 39:52.433 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
making the gap easier to span.
39:52.500 --> 39:54.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Imagine what it took
to build all this.
39:54.900 --> 39:58.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
They had to design it,
quarry the stones,
39:58.066 --> 40:01.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
stack them, smooth them,
carve them, paint them --
40:01.300 --> 40:03.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
all for the glory
and favor of the gods.
40:04.000 --> 40:06.133 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Consider the depth
of the faith --
40:06.200 --> 40:08.966 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
This was not for the public.
It was only to be seen
40:09.033 --> 40:12.133 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
by the royals, the priests,
and the gods.
40:12.200 --> 40:16.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Obelisks symbolically
connected earth with the gods.
40:16.266 --> 40:17.566 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
These are monolithic
40:17.633 --> 40:20.400 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and carved out of a single
piece of granite.
40:20.466 --> 40:24.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
They were quarried about
100 miles south of here in Aswan
40:24.233 --> 40:26.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
and then shipped down the Nile.
40:26.166 --> 40:31.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
This one's been standing here
for about 3,000 years.
40:31.266 --> 40:34.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Like church spires and minarets,
an obelisk marked a holy place.
40:35.033 --> 40:37.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
There are only about 60
in existence.
40:37.266 --> 40:40.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
A few still mark their original
Egyptian temples,
40:40.600 --> 40:43.133 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
but more decorate
the great squares of Europe,
40:43.200 --> 40:46.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
taken there through the ages
by European conquers.
40:46.833 --> 40:48.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
As you venture farther
into the complex,
40:48.866 --> 40:52.266 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
things get older and crescendo
in religious importance.
40:52.333 --> 40:54.900 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Everything at Karnak
leads to a small chamber
40:54.966 --> 40:58.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
that marks the very heart
of the temple complex --
40:58.300 --> 41:01.000 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
the Holy of Holies.
41:01.066 --> 41:03.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
This was the most sacred spot
in all of Egypt.
41:04.000 --> 41:08.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
On this pedestal sat a statue
of the top god, Amon-Ra.
41:08.400 --> 41:10.033 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
Amon-Ra was the god of Luxor,
41:10.100 --> 41:13.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
the god of empire,
Egypt's god of gods.
41:13.433 --> 41:17.100 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
41:17.166 --> 41:19.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
The Nile still flows as it did
for the pharaohs --
41:19.900 --> 41:24.000 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
the lifeblood of civilization
then, as today.
41:24.066 --> 41:28.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Luxor's riverfront is busy
with boats, big and small.
41:28.766 --> 41:32.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The traditional felucca,
long a hard-working cargo boat,
41:32.266 --> 41:34.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
now hauls vacationing tourists.
41:34.933 --> 41:39.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Anywhere on the Nile,
I love a felucca ride.
41:39.333 --> 41:43.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The hand-stitched canvas sail
artfully catches the breeze.
41:43.966 --> 41:45.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Egyptian boatmen have been
sailing this river
41:45.966 --> 41:48.533 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
for thousands of years.
41:48.600 --> 41:51.233 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
Today, they expertly maneuver
41:51.300 --> 41:54.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
as tourists leave
every care behind,
41:54.433 --> 41:56.133 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
enjoying this scene,
41:56.200 --> 42:00.766 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
essentially unchanged
since the time of the pharaohs.
42:00.833 --> 42:02.666 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
42:02.733 --> 42:05.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Here, where the desert
meets the Nile,
42:05.366 --> 42:06.966 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
the lush ribbon of green
42:07.033 --> 42:10.333 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
is a reminder of
how fundamental this river is
42:10.400 --> 42:13.066 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
to all life in Egypt.
42:13.133 --> 42:18.166 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
42:18.233 --> 42:23.533 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
42:23.600 --> 42:27.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
As the sun sets,
palms become silhouettes,
42:27.666 --> 42:31.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
ensuring memories created
are never forgotten.
42:31.600 --> 42:36.200 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
42:38.833 --> 42:41.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Across the Nile from Luxor
are hills rich
42:41.633 --> 42:45.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
with some of Egypt's most
important ancient sights.
42:45.900 --> 42:48.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
While most sightseers
cross the river
42:48.233 --> 42:50.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
on a fleet of touristy shuttles,
42:50.200 --> 42:53.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
we're riding on the public
ferry with the locals.
42:53.433 --> 42:56.800 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
It's early morning, and these
people are heading to work.
42:56.866 --> 42:59.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
And we're heading for
the Valley of the Kings
42:59.466 --> 43:02.633 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
and the ancient tombs.
43:02.700 --> 43:04.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
To the ancient Egyptians,
it seemed logical
43:04.500 --> 43:07.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
to live on the east bank,
where the sun rises,
43:07.166 --> 43:08.900 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
and bury your dead
on the west bank,
43:08.966 --> 43:12.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
where the sun dies each evening.
43:12.533 --> 43:16.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
While the workers head off,
nearby the tourists arrive.
43:16.666 --> 43:19.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
While there are a few
independent travelers,
43:19.066 --> 43:22.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Egypt favors group travel,
and most follow their guides
43:22.800 --> 43:27.833 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
to waiting buses
for their west-bank tour.
43:27.900 --> 43:31.666 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The valley is blanketed with
yet-to-be-excavated ruins.
43:31.733 --> 43:35.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Here, two lonely statues
herald a long-gone temple.
43:35.866 --> 43:39.000 align:start position:20% line:10% size:57.5%
And here, burrowed into
an arid mountain range,
43:39.066 --> 43:41.600 align:start position:15% line:10% size:67.5%
is the Valley of the Kings,
43:41.666 --> 43:44.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
where mummified pharaohs
hide out with their treasures,
43:44.733 --> 43:47.500 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
awaiting the eternity express.
43:47.566 --> 43:51.700 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
43:51.766 --> 43:54.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
This valley was all about
protecting royal tombs.
43:54.866 --> 43:56.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
And so were the great
pyramids before it.
43:56.900 --> 43:59.100 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
It was to ensure
that all those valuables
43:59.166 --> 44:01.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
made it safely
into the afterlife.
44:01.800 --> 44:04.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Ironically, rather than
protecting tombs,
44:04.733 --> 44:07.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
the pyramids were actually
attracting thieves.
44:07.400 --> 44:09.533 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Again and again,
pyramids were looted
44:09.600 --> 44:14.233 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
and pharaohs were waking up in
heaven with absolutely nothing.
44:14.300 --> 44:18.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
By about 1500 B.C., pharaohs
stopped building pyramids
44:18.833 --> 44:21.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and began hiding
their tombs instead.
44:21.966 --> 44:25.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
These tombs, buried deep
in the folds of this valley,
44:25.133 --> 44:26.833 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
proved to be more secure
44:26.900 --> 44:31.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
than the intentionally
high-profile pyramids.
44:31.366 --> 44:33.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
While around 60 tombs
have been excavated
44:33.600 --> 44:35.200 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
in the Valley of the Kings,
44:35.266 --> 44:37.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
far more have yet
to be discovered.
44:37.933 --> 44:42.666 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
44:42.733 --> 44:46.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
The tomb of Ramses IV
was typical.
44:47.000 --> 44:49.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
It had a long ramp,
intricately carved and painted,
44:50.033 --> 44:52.100 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
leading to the burial chamber.
44:52.166 --> 44:56.933 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
44:57.000 --> 45:01.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
This massive granite sarcophagus
was slid down the ramp.
45:01.066 --> 45:03.900 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
It protected the mummy
of the pharaoh.
45:03.966 --> 45:07.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Slathered in hieroglyphs --
prayers and symbolism --
45:07.133 --> 45:08.400 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
it was all designed
45:08.466 --> 45:11.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
to boost the pharaoh
into the next life.
45:11.900 --> 45:13.800 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
Jackals stand guard,
45:13.866 --> 45:19.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and here, a god presents
two ankhs, the symbol of life.
45:19.100 --> 45:23.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The burial chamber walls are
remarkably vivid for their age.
45:23.300 --> 45:27.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Sealed away dry, dark, and
forgotten for over 3,000 years,
45:27.533 --> 45:29.700 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
they're beautifully preserved.
45:29.766 --> 45:32.000 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
Tourists can still clearly see
45:32.066 --> 45:36.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Egypt's ancient elaborate
spiritual world.
45:36.133 --> 45:40.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The most famous tomb in the
valley is of King Tutankhamen,
45:40.166 --> 45:42.633 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
AKA King Tut.
45:42.700 --> 45:45.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Another long passage
leads deep into a chamber
45:45.333 --> 45:47.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
where you find more
well-preserved paintings
45:47.800 --> 45:51.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
surrounding an empty
stone sarcophagus.
45:51.900 --> 45:54.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
It was one of eight nesting
boxes and coffins
45:54.700 --> 45:58.600 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
that protected
the pharaoh's body.
45:58.666 --> 46:02.600 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Remarkably, Tut's actual mummy
lies nearby.
46:02.666 --> 46:04.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The ancient process
of mummification
46:04.566 --> 46:06.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
ensured that the body was there
46:06.533 --> 46:09.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
for the soul to inhabit
in the afterlife.
46:09.533 --> 46:11.600 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
And, you gotta admit,
46:11.666 --> 46:16.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Tut doesn't look
a day over 3,500.
46:16.966 --> 46:19.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
While his reign was of
no importance historically
46:19.433 --> 46:21.233 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
and lasted only a few years,
46:21.300 --> 46:25.100 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Tutankhamen is the one pharaoh
whose name we all know.
46:25.166 --> 46:27.433 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
That's because in 1922,
46:27.500 --> 46:31.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
this tomb was discovered
with its treasures intact.
46:31.133 --> 46:34.433 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
46:34.500 --> 46:37.633 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
While pharaohs hid their tombs
deep in the mountains,
46:37.700 --> 46:39.200 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
they built
their memorial temples
46:39.266 --> 46:42.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
in public splendor,
in the open for all to see,
46:42.366 --> 46:46.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
so they'd be remembered
and worshipped through the ages.
46:46.633 --> 46:49.466 align:start position:27.5% line:10% size:45%
This is the Temple
of Queen Hatshepsut,
46:49.533 --> 46:52.666 align:start position:15% line:10% size:67.5%
the greatest woman pharaoh.
46:52.733 --> 46:55.833 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
In its day, around 1500 B.C.,
46:55.900 --> 46:58.733 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Queen Hatshepsut's monument
would have been glorious,
46:58.800 --> 47:00.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
surrounded by gardens
47:00.300 --> 47:03.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and approached
by a grand sphinx-lined lane.
47:03.800 --> 47:06.766 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
47:06.833 --> 47:09.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The challenges of being a woman
politician are nothing new.
47:09.966 --> 47:12.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Hatshepsut claimed to be
the daughter of a god,
47:12.866 --> 47:16.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
but to prove her strength, she
had to declare herself "king."
47:16.466 --> 47:17.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Determined to assert
her authority,
47:18.000 --> 47:21.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
her propaganda even showed her
dressed as a male ruler.
47:21.500 --> 47:24.233 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
47:24.300 --> 47:27.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Statues show the queen
wearing a beard --
47:27.166 --> 47:28.866 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
a symbol of royalty.
47:28.933 --> 47:32.500 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
47:32.566 --> 47:35.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
This multi-level temple
is fit for a god
47:35.600 --> 47:40.566 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and surely must have inspired
great awe and respect.
47:40.633 --> 47:43.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
With ranks of imposing
statues of the queen,
47:43.433 --> 47:45.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
it's easy to imagine
public adulation
47:45.900 --> 47:49.533 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
for centuries after her death.
47:49.600 --> 47:51.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Her formidable army
carried weapons,
47:51.800 --> 47:54.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
but also carried olive branches,
47:54.500 --> 47:57.933 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
the ancient symbol of peace.
47:58.000 --> 48:00.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
History's first great woman
ruler is remembered
48:00.966 --> 48:05.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
for a 20-year reign
of general peace and stability.
48:05.266 --> 48:10.433 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
48:10.500 --> 48:12.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
A short venture beyond
the famous sights
48:12.766 --> 48:17.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
takes us into a timeless Egypt
untouched by tourism.
48:17.500 --> 48:20.300 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
The vast majority
of Egypt's 100 million people
48:20.366 --> 48:22.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
live along the banks
of the Nile.
48:22.766 --> 48:25.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
And most of them lead
traditional lives
48:25.266 --> 48:29.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
on land made fertile
by the river.
48:29.233 --> 48:30.933 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
Plowing with oxen...
48:31.000 --> 48:33.400 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
48:33.466 --> 48:35.700 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
...sowing seeds by hand...
48:35.766 --> 48:38.066 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
48:38.133 --> 48:40.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
...and harvesting their crops...
48:40.400 --> 48:42.633 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
48:42.700 --> 48:45.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
...they farm as they have
through the millennia.
48:45.866 --> 48:47.733 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
48:47.800 --> 48:49.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
In some ways,
life along the Nile
48:49.566 --> 48:53.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
seems to have changed little
since the days of the pharaohs.
48:53.066 --> 48:56.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
The major difference --
the annual flooding,
48:56.066 --> 48:58.933 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
once essential
to nourish the soil with silt,
48:59.000 --> 49:02.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
has been controlled
by an enormous dam.
49:02.766 --> 49:05.033 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Today, fertilizing
and irrigating the soil
49:05.100 --> 49:08.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
is the work of engineers
rather than the gods.
49:08.933 --> 49:10.566 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
With the Nile now tamed,
49:10.633 --> 49:13.733 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
farming in Egypt is possible
throughout the year.
49:16.033 --> 49:19.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Luxor's a busy port
for river-cruise boats.
49:19.566 --> 49:22.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Fleets of these provide
multiday Nile cruises
49:22.666 --> 49:26.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
which have become a standard
part of an Egyptian tour.
49:26.533 --> 49:28.200 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
We're riding one
farther upstream
49:28.266 --> 49:33.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
for a look at the most scenic
stretch of the Nile.
49:33.366 --> 49:35.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
As if on a floating
resort hotel,
49:35.700 --> 49:40.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
tourists enjoy the deck,
with its pool...
49:40.133 --> 49:42.066 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
the attentive service...
49:42.133 --> 49:46.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
and the views from their perch
atop three floors of staterooms.
49:46.900 --> 49:49.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The trip upriver takes you
by natural beauty
49:49.666 --> 49:51.900 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
and seemingly ancient scenes
49:51.966 --> 49:56.833 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
interrupted only
by modern cruise boats.
49:56.900 --> 50:00.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Long stretches pass by timeless
slices of Egyptian life
50:00.866 --> 50:04.766 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
as vacationers
have little option but to relax
50:04.833 --> 50:07.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and live at the pace
of the steady boat
50:07.433 --> 50:10.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
heading against the current
of the fabled river.
50:13.166 --> 50:14.700 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
It's so peaceful
50:14.766 --> 50:18.433 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
until the tranquility
is broken by...
50:18.500 --> 50:21.633 align:start position:40% line:84.66% size:20%
pirates?
50:21.700 --> 50:25.066 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Nope. They're eager
and enterprising salesmen
50:25.133 --> 50:29.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
who artfully tie up to the
surging riverboats to display,
50:29.400 --> 50:31.666 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
model, and haggle...
50:31.733 --> 50:34.066 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
-[ Shouting indistinctly ]
50:34.133 --> 50:37.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
-...selling their souvenirs
the hard way.
50:37.133 --> 50:40.200 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
50:40.266 --> 50:41.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Whether you buy anything or not,
50:41.933 --> 50:44.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
you can enjoy their
entertaining show afternoons
50:44.833 --> 50:48.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
on both the port
and starboard sides.
50:48.333 --> 50:53.100 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
50:53.166 --> 50:57.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
As the sun gets low in the sky,
we enter the magic hour.
50:57.766 --> 50:59.266 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
Scenes crescendo in beauty
50:59.333 --> 51:03.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
as they glide gracefully
by either side of the boat.
51:03.766 --> 51:07.266 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
We pass patient fishermen...
51:07.333 --> 51:10.700 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
grazing cattle...
51:10.766 --> 51:13.366 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
farmers at work...
51:13.433 --> 51:15.633 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
children play...
51:15.700 --> 51:18.733 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
villagers do their chores...
51:18.800 --> 51:24.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
and minarets call all to prayer
as the sun sets.
51:24.166 --> 51:30.800 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
51:34.566 --> 51:38.000 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
After two lazy days,
we reach the city of Aswan,
51:38.066 --> 51:40.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
the last major port
on the river.
51:40.700 --> 51:43.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
An ancient garrison town
famed for its granite quarries,
51:44.033 --> 51:46.166 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
today it's embraced tourism,
51:46.233 --> 51:50.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
taking full advantage
of its attractive riverfront.
51:50.733 --> 51:54.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
These days, Aswan is most famous
for its massive dam.
51:54.900 --> 51:57.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
It was built with Soviet
technology and money
51:57.566 --> 51:59.933 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
back in the Cold War.
52:00.000 --> 52:01.666 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
A game changer for Egypt,
52:01.733 --> 52:03.966 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
it tamed the Nile,
providing electricity
52:04.033 --> 52:08.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and controlling the flow
of the once-erratic river.
52:08.400 --> 52:12.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The dam created a huge
reservoir called "Lake Nasser."
52:12.100 --> 52:15.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Its creation submerged many
towns and ancient treasures.
52:16.000 --> 52:19.233 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
But the most important temple
was saved.
52:19.300 --> 52:21.666 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
52:21.733 --> 52:26.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
To visit that temple, tourists
catch a short flight from Aswan.
52:26.500 --> 52:28.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
It's an easy half-day side trip
52:28.233 --> 52:31.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
over one of the largest
man-made lakes in the world.
52:31.433 --> 52:36.433 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
52:36.500 --> 52:38.266 align:start position:17.5% line:10% size:62.5%
The Temple of Abu Simbel,
52:38.333 --> 52:42.766 align:start position:22.5% line:10% size:55%
while originally built
by Ramses II in about 1250 B.C.,
52:42.833 --> 52:48.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
was relocated here
only about 50 years ago.
52:48.700 --> 52:51.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Abu Simbel was saved from
being submerged in the lake
52:51.200 --> 52:54.133 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and lost forever
after an international outcry.
52:54.200 --> 52:56.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Thanks to a heroic effort,
in 1968,
52:56.900 --> 52:59.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
this ancient temple
was cut into huge blocks
52:59.566 --> 53:01.666 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
and relocated to this spot,
53:01.733 --> 53:04.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
high and dry for at least
another 3,000 years.
53:04.933 --> 53:09.166 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
53:09.233 --> 53:12.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Four towering statues
of the powerful pharaoh
53:12.133 --> 53:14.633 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
stand sentinel at the entry.
53:14.700 --> 53:18.300 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
53:18.366 --> 53:20.366 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
Ramses' wife
and some of his children,
53:20.433 --> 53:23.800 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
considered less important and,
therefore, smaller in scale,
53:23.866 --> 53:26.100 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
are at his feet.
53:26.166 --> 53:28.133 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
53:28.200 --> 53:30.333 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
Inside, the central hall
53:30.400 --> 53:36.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
is lined with more
imposing statues of Ramses.
53:36.333 --> 53:41.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
They're surrounded by reliefs
showing off his power.
53:41.500 --> 53:44.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Here, the pharaoh leads
his army into battle,
53:44.733 --> 53:49.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
riding his chariot, thoroughly
destroying his enemies.
53:49.133 --> 53:54.666 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
53:54.733 --> 53:57.933 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
And finally,
in the sacred sanctuary,
53:58.000 --> 54:03.433 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Ramses assumes his place
in the company of the gods.
54:03.500 --> 54:07.800 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
54:07.866 --> 54:10.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Admiring this one last
magnificent temple,
54:10.466 --> 54:12.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
you can't help but ponder
the rich and complicated
54:12.833 --> 54:15.766 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
5,000-year story
of this civilization.
54:15.833 --> 54:18.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
I hope you've enjoyed
our look at Egypt.
54:18.166 --> 54:19.133 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
I'm Rick Steves.
54:19.200 --> 54:21.633 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Until next time,
keep on travelin'.
54:24.300 --> 54:31.733 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
54:31.800 --> 54:39.333 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
54:39.400 --> 54:47.100 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
54:47.166 --> 54:54.533 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
54:57.166 --> 54:58.433 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪
55:01.100 --> 55:02.666 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪