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[gentle orchestral fanfare]

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♪

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[resonant strings lead 
building orchestration]

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(male narrator) 
Welcome to Our State ,

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a production of UNC-TV

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in association 
with Our State magazine--

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for over 80 years,

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bringing readers 
the wonders of North Carolina.

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On this edition, 
the story of a T-shirt

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made with local cotton 
and Carolina pride...

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and artist Duane Raver,

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who's been capturing 
wildlife on canvas

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for over half a century.

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[guitars lead easy rock tune]

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♪

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[gentle piano melody]

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(male announcer) 
Since 1872,

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BB&T has been supporting

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the people and communities 
of North Carolina.

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From our small-town roots

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to the banking network 
you see today,

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we've always been here 
for all our clients,

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stretching from Manteo...

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to Murphy.

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We're proud of our heritage

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as the oldest bank 
in North Carolina,

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and we're very proud 
to provide funding

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for Our State .

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♪

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Quality public television 
is made possible

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through the financial 
contributions

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of viewers like you,

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who invite you to join them 
in supporting UNC-TV.

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[echoing 
electric guitar melody]

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♪

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♪

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(narrator) 
Not too long ago,

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the seed 
beneath a person's feet

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became, in time, 
the shirt on their back.

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The clothes drying on the line

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hailed their creator 
in the field

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only a few feet away.

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The process began 
and ended at home.

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A screen printer 
and entrepreneurial survivor

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hopes others 
will follow his lead

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and make their way back home.

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(man) 
We built 
a high-volume contract

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screen-printing business 
working for the brands,

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companies like Nike, 
Tommy, Gap, Polo.

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And then, in the mid-'90s,

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this thing called NAFTA 
came along.

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(narrator) 
Fostered with good intentions,

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the North American 
Free Trade Agreement

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was organized 
to encourage trade

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with other countries.

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However, 
many believe globalization

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has had the opposite impact

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on American 
manufacturing jobs.

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(man) 
Totally destroyed 
our business,

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textiles in this community, 
textiles in this country.

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Within two years, we went 
from a hundred-plus employees

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to 14 employees.

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Somewhere in the high 90% 
of our apparel

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now is made overseas,

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and NAFTA was the start 
of opening that floodgate

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and chasing cheap labor.

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A typical T-shirt today

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came anywhere 
from 13,000 to 15,000 miles

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before it comes back 
to your local store.

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But now you're startin' 
to hear this thing

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called "reshoring," 
coming back to the states.

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We formed the brand called 
Cotton of the Carolinas,

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changed the mission 
of TS Designs

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to create the highest quality,

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most sustainable 
printed apparel,

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and then we started 
going out to the people

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that make the product, 
all in the Carolinas.

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We want to control 
that supply chain.

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The only way to control it is,

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we gotta go all the way back 
to the beginning,

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meet that farmer, 
and buy that farmer's cotton.

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(narrator) 
Cotton loves Carolina soil 
and weather

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and has been a cash crop 
since the mid-1800s,

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but by the 1920s,

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a cotton-devouring beetle 
called the boll weevil

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migrated from Central America

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and decimated 
the cotton industry.

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By the '90s, however, 
cotton was on its way back.

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The boll weevil 
had been eradicated,

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and the popularity 
of the versatile crop

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was in high demand.

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Third-generation farmer 
Ronnie Burleson

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saw the need 
and helped to bring cotton

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back to the western Piedmont.

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(Ronnie) 
The way we determine 
if cotton's ready to pick

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is if that seed'll pop.

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tick

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Did you hear that pop?

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Well, this is dry cotton.

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[echoing 
electric guitar melody]

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It has to be dry 
for it to pick.

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Weather is not always 
conducive to harvest,

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so when you do have 
good weather,

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you work long hours 
on those days

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and try to get 
as much done as you can.

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(narrator) 
From October through December,

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Ronnie, his son, and brother 
move from field to field

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by instinct and with a cadence

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that comes from years 
working the land.

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Forecasts of rain 
increase the sense of urgency.

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The longer 
the cotton sits in the field,

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the greater the chance

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weather can degrade 
the quality of the crop.

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(Ronnie) 
If you need to be here

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taking care of your crops,

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you need to be here 
taking care of your crops.

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You can go on vacation later.

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(narrator) 
In 2015, North Carolina

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was the fifth-largest 
cotton producer in the U.S.,

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and more than half our crop

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is exported to be dyed, 
cut, sewn,

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and sometimes 
even printed elsewhere.

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♪

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Before 
Cotton of the Carolinas,

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Burleson had never seen

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a product 
made from his cotton.

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(Eric) 
Ronnie is now excited 
because he knows

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that the T-shirt 
I'm wearing today,

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he grew the cotton.

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And what globalization did, 
it totally destroyed all that

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because what happened is, 
the marketplace was buying

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either cotton or service 
along the supply chain

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based upon price or quality, 
so we totally fragmented.

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You're rebuilding 
and reconnecting

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those relationships 
that we lost in globalization.

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(narrator) 
One crucial relationship

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is between the cotton farmer 
and ginner.

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Autumn roadsides 
sprinkled with cotton

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guide the way 
from Ronnie's farm

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to the Rolling Hills Gin 
in New London.

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Wes Morgan built his gin 
in the early '90s

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to meet the growing demand 
from Piedmont cotton farmers.

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♪

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The seeds have to be removed 
from the cotton fiber.

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A process folks used to do 
so laboriously by hand

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is now done by a machine

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that revolutionized 
the cotton industry.

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(man) 
In the 1700s,

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a guy by the name 
of Eli Whitney

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came up with saw blades 
in between some ribs

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and came up with 
the modern-day cotton gin.

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You know, the process 
hasn't really changed a lot,

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but what that allowed is,

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where a person could do 
a few pounds per day,

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now this machine can do 
hundreds of pounds per day,

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and now we actually do 
thousands of pounds per hour.

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[contemplative score]

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When we bring the cotton 
in from the field,

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we weigh each load 
as it comes in.

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This module here 
is about 20,000 pounds.

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There's probably 
about 15 finished bales

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of cotton in here.

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When we start processin', uh, 
we take those covers off.

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In the first part 
of the process,

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the cotton 
is cleaned and dried.

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In the middle 
of the building,

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we actually have 
the gin itself...

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♪

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'fore we actually remove 
the seed and the fiber.

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♪

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The seeds get blown over 
to another building,

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sent off for cattle feed 
or possibly cottonseed oil.

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And then the lint goes on 
to some lint cleaners,

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and then we take it over 
to our bale press,

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which we package 
in 500-pound bales.

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Then we'll process 
12, 13 hours a day,

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six days a week

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from usually 
the beginning of October

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through around Christmas.

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We would love 
for all of our cotton

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to stay in North Carolina 
and become a totally

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made-in-the-Carolinas-type 
product.

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That's not gonna happen,

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but if we can at least 
get it started.

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You have a lotta people 
that say,

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"Sure, I'd love to buy a shirt 
made in North Carolina,"

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and so this 
is trying to fill that.

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And then, 
whenever Mark's ready

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at Hill Spinning, 
we'll ship the cotton to him

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so he can make the yarn

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and take it on 
to the next process.

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(narrator) 
All of this 
used to be commonplace

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back in the days 
when cotton provided

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thousands of jobs 
and millions of dollars

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for local economies.

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(man) 
Growin' up in North Carolina,

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I remember every town, just 
about, had a textile plant.

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Tremendous amount of 'em 
were cotton mills.

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They'd go on and on and on

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all across the state 
of North Carolina.

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There's very few of us left 
that do this type of business.

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(narrator) 
Yet there are hopeful signs 
of resurgence and perseverance

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here and there... 
in places like Thomasville.

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00:08:32,612 --> 00:08:36,382
[train horn blowing 
and crossing bell ringing]

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00:08:36,482 --> 00:08:39,519
(man) 
We actually started 
back in the '40s

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00:08:39,619 --> 00:08:42,121
when our grandfather 
started making hosiery.

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00:08:42,221 --> 00:08:46,492
Attached to the hosiery mill, 
he built Hill Spinning Mill.

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00:08:46,592 --> 00:08:48,895
Just over 
the last 10 to 12 years,

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00:08:48,995 --> 00:08:50,897
we have closed 
our hosiery mill

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00:08:50,997 --> 00:08:52,598
mainly due to imports,

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00:08:52,698 --> 00:08:56,435
and now the only thing left 
is the cotton mill.

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The bigger guys, 
they go for the big volume.

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00:08:59,672 --> 00:09:01,541
Well, we cannot compete 
with that.

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00:09:01,641 --> 00:09:03,242
Because we are so small,

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00:09:03,342 --> 00:09:06,145
we are able to do 
a lot of the small orders,

216
00:09:06,245 --> 00:09:07,747
just like the example

217
00:09:07,847 --> 00:09:10,216
of the Cotton 
of the Carolinas program.

218
00:09:10,316 --> 00:09:12,318
[contemplative score]

219
00:09:12,418 --> 00:09:15,521
And we bring that cotton in, 
and we do the opening.

220
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We do the cleaning; 
we do the blending.

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00:09:19,458 --> 00:09:21,093
Just like makin' a cake,

222
00:09:21,193 --> 00:09:23,429
you wanna make sure 
it's well mixed.

223
00:09:23,529 --> 00:09:26,432
We bring it through our cards 
nice and slow.

224
00:09:26,532 --> 00:09:29,268
(narrator) 
The result is 
a soft, untwisted bundle

225
00:09:29,368 --> 00:09:31,070
called a sliver.

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00:09:31,170 --> 00:09:33,673
(man) 
Then we take it 
through a drawing process

227
00:09:33,773 --> 00:09:36,475
which parallels the fibers 
and blends the fibers.

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00:09:36,576 --> 00:09:38,377
(narrator) 
With each hypnotic phase,

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00:09:38,477 --> 00:09:40,313
the delicate fibers 
are joined,

230
00:09:40,413 --> 00:09:42,315
twisted, and drafted down

231
00:09:42,415 --> 00:09:44,617
into a stronger 
and smoother product.

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00:09:44,717 --> 00:09:46,652
The roving frame 
drafts the fibers

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00:09:46,752 --> 00:09:48,220
from a thick sliver

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00:09:48,321 --> 00:09:49,956
down to a much smaller size

235
00:09:50,056 --> 00:09:51,824
and adds 
a small amount of twist

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00:09:51,924 --> 00:09:54,160
to help pull it off 
the roving bobbin

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00:09:54,260 --> 00:09:56,963
in the next process.

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00:09:57,063 --> 00:09:59,699
Ring spinning takes 
the roving from a bobbin,

239
00:09:59,799 --> 00:10:02,034
drafts it down 
to the desired size,

240
00:10:02,134 --> 00:10:05,037
puts the desired amount 
of twist into the yarn,

241
00:10:05,137 --> 00:10:07,773
and then winds it 
on a spinning bobbin.

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00:10:07,873 --> 00:10:09,775
(man) 
We still have some equipment

243
00:10:09,875 --> 00:10:12,111
that is original 
from our start-up.

244
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We have some equipment 
that we modernized.

245
00:10:14,680 --> 00:10:17,249
Over the years, 
we have stayed in business

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00:10:17,350 --> 00:10:19,619
by purchasing used equipment 
from other mills

247
00:10:19,719 --> 00:10:21,354
that have gone 
out of business,

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used the parts off of it 
to keep our cost down,

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00:10:24,724 --> 00:10:28,227
and that's part of the reason 
why we're still here.

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We feel an obligation 
to our family name,

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00:10:31,097 --> 00:10:33,866
to our employees, 
and even to our community

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to keep these positions 
and these jobs running.

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00:10:38,404 --> 00:10:40,606
(Eric) 
If you're creating jobs 
in your community

254
00:10:40,706 --> 00:10:43,142
and that money is spent 
back in your community,

255
00:10:43,242 --> 00:10:44,777
then it just multiplies.

256
00:10:44,877 --> 00:10:46,646
Typically, they say, 
a dollar spent locally

257
00:10:46,746 --> 00:10:48,314
will bounce seven times

258
00:10:48,414 --> 00:10:50,750
compared to a dollar 
at a big-box store.

259
00:10:50,850 --> 00:10:52,752
Then most of that money 
is going

260
00:10:52,852 --> 00:10:55,755
out of not only the state 
but out of the country

261
00:10:55,855 --> 00:11:00,426
because they are products 
that aren't produced here.

262
00:11:00,526 --> 00:11:02,628
(narrator) 
Hemingway, South Carolina,

263
00:11:02,728 --> 00:11:05,464
not unlike other 
old Carolina mill towns

264
00:11:05,564 --> 00:11:06,932
with their diminished 
populations

265
00:11:07,033 --> 00:11:08,601
and shuttered storefronts...

266
00:11:08,701 --> 00:11:10,603
[echoing 
electronic guitar melody]

267
00:11:10,703 --> 00:11:12,872
but there is hope here too,

268
00:11:12,972 --> 00:11:16,409
thanks to Piedmont cotton 
and Hemingway Apparel.

269
00:11:16,509 --> 00:11:18,744
(man) 
Every employee you got

270
00:11:18,844 --> 00:11:22,615
is probably creatin' a job 
for somebody else.

271
00:11:22,715 --> 00:11:27,053
So it's not just that you've 
got 50, 55 employees.

272
00:11:27,153 --> 00:11:30,523
Those employees create jobs 
for other people.

273
00:11:30,623 --> 00:11:34,193
(narrator) 
Since 1978, Jack Marsh 
has overseen the process

274
00:11:34,293 --> 00:11:37,363
of cutting and sewing 
knitted fabric into apparel

275
00:11:37,463 --> 00:11:40,633
by the skilled hands 
of people like these.

276
00:11:40,733 --> 00:11:42,835
But the lure of lower costs

277
00:11:42,935 --> 00:11:46,105
once nearly tempted Jack 
to take his business offshore.

278
00:11:46,205 --> 00:11:48,908
(Jack) 
I went, and I looked 
at different countries--

279
00:11:49,008 --> 00:11:50,543
spent weeks.

280
00:11:50,643 --> 00:11:53,045
A lot of it 
was in South America.

281
00:11:53,145 --> 00:11:56,515
But I came back home, 
and I told my wife; I said,

282
00:11:56,615 --> 00:11:59,318
"If it's gonna sell 
in this country,

283
00:11:59,418 --> 00:12:02,855
then I'ma make it 
in this country."

284
00:12:02,955 --> 00:12:04,490
If you stop and think,

285
00:12:04,590 --> 00:12:06,859
you buy a garment 
that's made in China,

286
00:12:06,959 --> 00:12:10,196
Pakistan, or India 
or wherever.

287
00:12:10,296 --> 00:12:13,799
How do you know 
what was in that product?

288
00:12:13,899 --> 00:12:16,302
[upbeat soft rock tune]

289
00:12:16,402 --> 00:12:24,944
♪

290
00:12:25,044 --> 00:12:27,246
(Eric) 
This is where we print

291
00:12:27,346 --> 00:12:29,448
the Cotton of the Carolinas 
T-shirts.

292
00:12:29,548 --> 00:12:31,450
♪

293
00:12:31,550 --> 00:12:33,285
But what makes it 
uniquely different

294
00:12:33,385 --> 00:12:35,020
when you come to TS Designs,

295
00:12:35,121 --> 00:12:37,790
you're just gonna see 
a lotta white T-shirts.

296
00:12:37,890 --> 00:12:40,359
We print white T-shirts.

297
00:12:40,459 --> 00:12:42,094
The way 
most T-shirts are done,

298
00:12:42,194 --> 00:12:44,163
where they knit the fabric, 
dye the fabric,

299
00:12:44,263 --> 00:12:45,765
cut and sew the T-shirt,

300
00:12:45,865 --> 00:12:47,633
and then print 
with this plastic resin,

301
00:12:47,733 --> 00:12:49,502
what you're feeling there 
is plastisol ink,

302
00:12:49,602 --> 00:12:51,570
and not only 
does it crack and peel

303
00:12:51,670 --> 00:12:53,339
when it's hot 
in the summertime,

304
00:12:53,439 --> 00:12:55,341
it contains PVC, 
polyvinyl chloride,

305
00:12:55,441 --> 00:12:56,709
and phthalates,

306
00:12:56,809 --> 00:12:59,411
things we don't need 
in the environment.

307
00:12:59,512 --> 00:13:02,748
We developed a process 
called "rehance."

308
00:13:02,848 --> 00:13:04,683
We take a white T-shirt.

309
00:13:04,784 --> 00:13:06,418
We put a print on that.

310
00:13:06,519 --> 00:13:09,755
You end up with a print in 
the fabric, not on the fabric,

311
00:13:09,855 --> 00:13:11,590
doesn't crack, 
doesn't peel.

312
00:13:11,690 --> 00:13:14,193
♪

313
00:13:14,293 --> 00:13:16,729
We go about five miles 
down the road

314
00:13:16,829 --> 00:13:18,297
to another facility

315
00:13:18,397 --> 00:13:20,833
which used to manufacture 
and dye socks.

316
00:13:20,933 --> 00:13:22,835
♪

317
00:13:22,935 --> 00:13:25,237
And it's about 
a four- to six-hour process

318
00:13:25,337 --> 00:13:27,006
of takin' that white T-shirt

319
00:13:27,106 --> 00:13:28,707
and creating 
a red T-shirt

320
00:13:28,808 --> 00:13:30,776
or a black T-shirt, 
blue T-shirt.

321
00:13:30,876 --> 00:13:34,446
(narrator) 
The process uses water-based, 
nontoxic inks and dyes

322
00:13:34,547 --> 00:13:36,916
that are 
environmentally friendly.

323
00:13:37,016 --> 00:13:38,517
(Eric) 
People that are buying

324
00:13:38,617 --> 00:13:40,252
the Cotton 
of the Carolina shirts

325
00:13:40,352 --> 00:13:42,822
are coming to us-- 
they want it for an event.

326
00:13:42,922 --> 00:13:44,557
They want it for a business,

327
00:13:44,657 --> 00:13:46,492
but there was nobody 
out there generating

328
00:13:46,592 --> 00:13:50,329
just North Carolina-themed 
graphics.

329
00:13:50,429 --> 00:13:52,331
And David 
and his partner Derek

330
00:13:52,431 --> 00:13:54,500
came to me and says, 
you know,

331
00:13:54,600 --> 00:13:57,236
"We would like to start 
filling that niche."

332
00:13:57,336 --> 00:13:58,971
Mindful Supply 
is a great partner

333
00:13:59,071 --> 00:14:00,706
to help 
take what we're doing

334
00:14:00,806 --> 00:14:02,208
from a manufacturing 
perspective

335
00:14:02,308 --> 00:14:05,010
and get it out there 
to the retail consumer.

336
00:14:05,110 --> 00:14:07,012
(narrator) 
Both Mindful Supply founders

337
00:14:07,112 --> 00:14:09,348
have backgrounds 
in design and textiles,

338
00:14:09,448 --> 00:14:11,417
so their shirts 
are inspired,

339
00:14:11,517 --> 00:14:14,253
full of Southern pride, 
and in demand.

340
00:14:14,353 --> 00:14:16,856
They've also 
been witnesses to change

341
00:14:16,956 --> 00:14:19,425
as production shifted 
rapidly offshore.

342
00:14:19,525 --> 00:14:22,161
(man) 
What we like to call 
disposable clothing

343
00:14:22,261 --> 00:14:23,529
kinda came along.

344
00:14:23,629 --> 00:14:25,965
You know, with that, 
labor is cheap,

345
00:14:26,065 --> 00:14:27,633
and clothing 
was even cheaper.

346
00:14:27,733 --> 00:14:29,134
Mix that with retailers,

347
00:14:29,235 --> 00:14:31,570
and they're gonna 
give consumers a cheap price,

348
00:14:31,670 --> 00:14:34,240
but they're gonna give 'em 
a cheap T-shirt.

349
00:14:34,340 --> 00:14:36,575
But I think 
now there's been a--

350
00:14:36,675 --> 00:14:39,778
a huge resurgence 
in well-made, quality goods,

351
00:14:39,879 --> 00:14:43,449
and it's all about knowin' 
where your goods are from

352
00:14:43,549 --> 00:14:46,385
and how it lines up 
with your values.

353
00:14:46,485 --> 00:14:48,254
(narrator) 
Mindful Supply 
wants you to know

354
00:14:48,354 --> 00:14:50,189
where your shirt came from.

355
00:14:50,289 --> 00:14:52,825
Just check out 
the code on the label.

356
00:14:52,925 --> 00:14:55,561
(David) 
And that code 
is linked to a Web site,

357
00:14:55,661 --> 00:14:57,563
and you can track your shirt

358
00:14:57,663 --> 00:15:00,499
based on the color thread 
that's in the hem.

359
00:15:00,599 --> 00:15:03,869
From that, you can kinda see 
exactly who made it for you.

360
00:15:03,969 --> 00:15:05,671
[electric fiddle leads 
energetic guitar strumming]

361
00:15:05,771 --> 00:15:07,406
(Eric) 
We give you a picture.

362
00:15:07,506 --> 00:15:09,141
We give you a phone number.

363
00:15:09,241 --> 00:15:10,876
We give you 
a physical address,

364
00:15:10,976 --> 00:15:12,645
and we give you an e-mail.

365
00:15:12,745 --> 00:15:14,179
It's the only apparel--

366
00:15:14,280 --> 00:15:17,917
the only T-shirt that has 
that amount of transparency.

367
00:15:18,017 --> 00:15:20,085
♪

368
00:15:20,185 --> 00:15:22,187
Any major brand 
you can think of

369
00:15:22,288 --> 00:15:24,790
most likely will not be made 
in this country.

370
00:15:24,890 --> 00:15:28,327
So imagine you wanted 
to go see that supply chain.

371
00:15:28,427 --> 00:15:31,664
You might as well 
go ahead and take weeks off,

372
00:15:31,764 --> 00:15:35,067
buy lots of plane tickets, 
and fly around the world.

373
00:15:35,167 --> 00:15:37,870
With Cotton of the Carolinas, 
it makes for a long day,

374
00:15:37,970 --> 00:15:39,872
but you get in a car

375
00:15:39,972 --> 00:15:42,107
and touch everybody 
in the supply chain

376
00:15:42,207 --> 00:15:45,678
in one day 
in two states.

377
00:15:45,778 --> 00:15:48,013
(Ronnie) 
This Cotton 
of the Carolinas project,

378
00:15:48,113 --> 00:15:51,016
it's not but a small part 
of our business,

379
00:15:51,116 --> 00:15:53,919
but I'm proud 
to be a part of it

380
00:15:54,019 --> 00:15:56,322
because we're all dependent 
on each other.

381
00:15:56,422 --> 00:15:58,457
[mellow arrangement]

382
00:15:58,557 --> 00:16:01,427
(Wes) 
Just because you can make 
a T-shirt in another country

383
00:16:01,527 --> 00:16:03,963
and get it back here 
and make it cheaper

384
00:16:04,063 --> 00:16:07,866
doesn't necessarily 
make it the best idea.

385
00:16:07,967 --> 00:16:10,436
(man) 
Textiles is alive 
in North Carolina.

386
00:16:10,536 --> 00:16:15,307
We do make a quality product 
and tend to stand by it.

387
00:16:15,407 --> 00:16:18,177
♪

388
00:16:18,277 --> 00:16:20,045
(Jack) 
I just firmly believe--

389
00:16:20,145 --> 00:16:22,181
I was born American.

390
00:16:22,281 --> 00:16:24,316
I need to buy American.

391
00:16:25,584 --> 00:16:27,586
(David) 
It's the same as food.

392
00:16:27,686 --> 00:16:30,356
People want to know 
what they're digesting, uh.

393
00:16:30,456 --> 00:16:33,158
People now want to know 
what they're wearing.

394
00:16:33,258 --> 00:16:35,861
♪

395
00:16:35,961 --> 00:16:38,230
(Eric) 
At the end of the day,

396
00:16:38,330 --> 00:16:40,399
we, the consumer, 
drive this ship.

397
00:16:40,499 --> 00:16:42,134
We're gonna open up 
our wallet.

398
00:16:42,234 --> 00:16:45,270
We're gonna open up our purse, 
and we're gonna buy something.

399
00:16:45,371 --> 00:16:46,638
Cool, thank you.

400
00:16:46,739 --> 00:16:48,707
(Eric) 
It could be a tank of gas.

401
00:16:48,807 --> 00:16:52,277
It could be a cup of coffee; 
it could be a pair of shoes.

402
00:16:52,378 --> 00:16:53,712
Oh, this is 
perfect.

403
00:16:53,812 --> 00:16:55,781
And it starts 
with being aware...

404
00:16:55,881 --> 00:16:57,716
This was grown 
in Nash County.

405
00:16:57,816 --> 00:16:59,585
(Eric) 
...by looking 
at where's it made

406
00:16:59,685 --> 00:17:01,186
and how is it made.

407
00:17:01,286 --> 00:17:03,255
(woman) 
Yeah, it's grown 
in North Carolina.

408
00:17:03,355 --> 00:17:04,923
North Carolina 
cotton!

409
00:17:05,024 --> 00:17:07,326
(Eric) 
If we don't look 
at that label,

410
00:17:07,426 --> 00:17:10,329
then don't be surprised 
where your product's made.

411
00:17:10,429 --> 00:17:13,632
♪

412
00:17:13,732 --> 00:17:16,335
[crickets buzzing]

413
00:17:19,972 --> 00:17:22,541
[bright acoustic guitar tune]

414
00:17:22,641 --> 00:17:27,613
♪

415
00:17:27,713 --> 00:17:30,349
(narrator) 
Fishing is a hopeful endeavor.

416
00:17:30,449 --> 00:17:31,717
Think about it.

417
00:17:31,817 --> 00:17:33,552
You enter 
into nature's realm

418
00:17:33,652 --> 00:17:34,920
with great expectation,

419
00:17:35,020 --> 00:17:37,923
even if your fishing 
is limited to a farm pond.

420
00:17:38,023 --> 00:17:40,125
And there you make 
sort of a bargain

421
00:17:40,225 --> 00:17:41,493
with the Divine,

422
00:17:41,593 --> 00:17:43,829
who will loan you His fish 
for a while

423
00:17:43,929 --> 00:17:45,564
just for the fun of it,

424
00:17:45,664 --> 00:17:47,166
although one could 
easily conclude

425
00:17:47,266 --> 00:17:50,269
that the fish aren't having 
nearly as much fun as you are,

426
00:17:50,369 --> 00:17:53,472
especially if you get to fish 
on a warm spring afternoon

427
00:17:53,572 --> 00:17:55,374
with your grandson.

428
00:17:55,974 --> 00:17:58,544
For Duane Raver, 
fishing and fish

429
00:17:58,644 --> 00:18:01,480
have been his way of life 
and vocation

430
00:18:01,580 --> 00:18:03,415
for a very long time.

431
00:18:03,515 --> 00:18:05,684
He's been catching 
and painting fish

432
00:18:05,784 --> 00:18:07,886
for going on eight decades.

433
00:18:07,986 --> 00:18:11,390
♪

434
00:18:11,490 --> 00:18:14,126
If you've ever seen 
magazine covers like these

435
00:18:14,226 --> 00:18:15,494
over the years,

436
00:18:15,594 --> 00:18:17,830
you've seen Duane Raver's art.

437
00:18:17,930 --> 00:18:19,832
♪

438
00:18:19,932 --> 00:18:22,568
It's little wonder 
that a fish just like this

439
00:18:22,668 --> 00:18:24,670
could find its way 
first onto canvas

440
00:18:24,770 --> 00:18:26,872
and then into print,

441
00:18:26,972 --> 00:18:30,676
and wonder more that Duane 
got into art at all

442
00:18:30,776 --> 00:18:32,744
after hearing what 
his high school art teacher

443
00:18:32,845 --> 00:18:34,913
had to say back in Iowa.

444
00:18:35,013 --> 00:18:36,748
"Mr. Raver, 
I just don't believe

445
00:18:36,849 --> 00:18:39,618
you've got a-- 
a future in artwork."

446
00:18:39,718 --> 00:18:41,053
(narrator) 
Clearly he did,

447
00:18:41,153 --> 00:18:43,889
but it took awhile 
for him to get the idea.

448
00:18:43,989 --> 00:18:46,058
(Raver) 
I was really surprised

449
00:18:46,158 --> 00:18:47,659
that I had that ability.

450
00:18:47,759 --> 00:18:51,263
I thought the kid 
right next to me in the desk

451
00:18:51,363 --> 00:18:54,199
could do exactly 
the same thing I could do.

452
00:18:54,299 --> 00:18:57,369
Well, obviously, 
it was a gift that I was given

453
00:18:57,469 --> 00:19:00,572
that most kids there 
did not have.

454
00:19:00,672 --> 00:19:04,243
I remember the one, uh, 
that I got paid for.

455
00:19:04,343 --> 00:19:06,812
The first-- 
my first assignment

456
00:19:06,912 --> 00:19:09,381
was the Fin and Feather News ,

457
00:19:09,481 --> 00:19:12,885
in Lufkin, Texas, 
and I got five dollars.

458
00:19:12,985 --> 00:19:17,189
I think that must have been 
about 1946 or '7,

459
00:19:17,289 --> 00:19:19,057
and I thought, 
"Whoa! That's great."

460
00:19:19,158 --> 00:19:23,262
So that was my introduction 
to professional artwork.

461
00:19:23,362 --> 00:19:24,763
(narrator) 
By 1949,

462
00:19:24,863 --> 00:19:27,199
Duane had finished school 
with a degree

463
00:19:27,299 --> 00:19:29,801
in fishery management 
from Iowa State College

464
00:19:29,902 --> 00:19:32,604
and was ready 
to tackle real life.

465
00:19:32,704 --> 00:19:36,008
Got a call one day 
from North Carolina.

466
00:19:36,108 --> 00:19:37,709
Friend of mine, uh--

467
00:19:37,809 --> 00:19:39,878
we had sort of 
a mutual agreement

468
00:19:39,978 --> 00:19:43,415
that if he got a job 
that I might be interested in,

469
00:19:43,515 --> 00:19:45,751
uh, he'd let me know, 
and vice versa.

470
00:19:45,851 --> 00:19:47,686
Well, he was first to call.

471
00:19:47,786 --> 00:19:52,891
"I'm leaving North Carolina; 
come down and take my job."

472
00:19:52,991 --> 00:19:55,260
The Wildlife Commission 
was only, uh,

473
00:19:55,360 --> 00:19:58,864
two or three years old 
and kind of an infancy,

474
00:19:58,964 --> 00:20:00,732
and certainly, 
the fish division

475
00:20:00,832 --> 00:20:03,735
needed a lot of, um, 
organization.

476
00:20:03,835 --> 00:20:06,371
(narrator) 
The new Tar Heel 
got right to work

477
00:20:06,471 --> 00:20:09,007
taking stock of fish 
in North Carolina's reservoirs

478
00:20:09,107 --> 00:20:11,243
and as it turned out, 
got to work

479
00:20:11,343 --> 00:20:14,613
helping put together 
the Commission's new magazine.

480
00:20:14,713 --> 00:20:17,449
(man) 
I think, for a long time, 
Duane was the magazine.

481
00:20:17,549 --> 00:20:18,884
I mean, Duane literally,

482
00:20:18,984 --> 00:20:20,252
for some years,

483
00:20:20,352 --> 00:20:22,120
did everything 
there was to do

484
00:20:22,221 --> 00:20:23,789
for the magazine.

485
00:20:23,889 --> 00:20:26,124
Duane would paint the covers.

486
00:20:26,225 --> 00:20:28,427
He would paint illustrations

487
00:20:28,527 --> 00:20:30,762
for the inside 
of the magazine.

488
00:20:30,862 --> 00:20:34,132
He would, uh, 
literally paste up the pages

489
00:20:34,233 --> 00:20:35,400
uh, when--

490
00:20:35,500 --> 00:20:37,869
when, you know, 
pages had to be pasted up

491
00:20:37,970 --> 00:20:40,072
and then shot, 
and the negatives, uh, were--

492
00:20:40,172 --> 00:20:41,974
were printed, um.

493
00:20:42,074 --> 00:20:43,342
Duane did everything.

494
00:20:43,442 --> 00:20:46,545
I mean, I think, really, 
Duane made this magazine.

495
00:20:46,645 --> 00:20:49,915
I think his paintings 
made this magazine.

496
00:20:50,015 --> 00:20:52,918
(Raver) 
I strive for accuracy--hah!

497
00:20:53,018 --> 00:20:55,921
What comes to mind 
was a cover that I did

498
00:20:56,021 --> 00:20:59,725
for the Wildlife magazine 
of a turkey gobbler.

499
00:20:59,825 --> 00:21:02,594
And, uh, 
it got in print,

500
00:21:02,694 --> 00:21:08,066
and about two weeks later, 
I got a, uh--a communiqué

501
00:21:08,166 --> 00:21:10,669
from a turkey hunter 
in Florida.

502
00:21:10,769 --> 00:21:13,338
"Mr. Raver, 
that's a nice gobbler on there,

503
00:21:13,438 --> 00:21:17,342
but it's the only I ever saw 
that didn't have any spurs."

504
00:21:17,442 --> 00:21:21,713
I had not put the spurs 
on the gobbler,

505
00:21:21,813 --> 00:21:24,316
so that was obviously 
in print,

506
00:21:24,416 --> 00:21:26,752
and I'll never live-- 
live it down,

507
00:21:26,852 --> 00:21:29,254
and so I've made 
some mistakes, um,

508
00:21:29,354 --> 00:21:30,756
in my checkered past.

509
00:21:30,856 --> 00:21:32,624
There's no question 
about that.

510
00:21:32,724 --> 00:21:34,092
(narrator) 
After his retirement

511
00:21:34,192 --> 00:21:36,695
from the Wildlife Commission 
in 1979,

512
00:21:36,795 --> 00:21:38,864
Raver launched himself 
full time

513
00:21:38,964 --> 00:21:40,399
into the freelance world.

514
00:21:40,499 --> 00:21:42,401
♪

515
00:21:42,501 --> 00:21:44,703
(Raver) 
Fishes of the Southeast 
United States--

516
00:21:44,803 --> 00:21:46,972
we did 150 illustrations,

517
00:21:47,072 --> 00:21:49,308
both fresh 
and saltwater there.

518
00:21:49,408 --> 00:21:52,811
Whoa, those have been used 
and used and used,

519
00:21:52,911 --> 00:21:54,813
which is great.

520
00:21:54,913 --> 00:21:56,415
(narrator) 
Despite his success,

521
00:21:56,515 --> 00:21:58,450
Duane sometimes 
seems to agree,

522
00:21:58,550 --> 00:21:59,885
at least in part,

523
00:21:59,985 --> 00:22:01,620
with his high school 
art teacher

524
00:22:01,720 --> 00:22:04,456
that he can paint this, 
but he can't paint that,

525
00:22:04,556 --> 00:22:07,993
and he doesn't consider 
himself an artist.

526
00:22:08,093 --> 00:22:11,963
(Raver) 
I--I classify myself 
as an illustrator

527
00:22:12,064 --> 00:22:14,966
as opposed to an artist, um.

528
00:22:15,067 --> 00:22:16,401
Now, you may say,

529
00:22:16,501 --> 00:22:18,403
Well, I don't see 
the differentiation.

530
00:22:18,503 --> 00:22:20,872
Well, uh, 
there is, uh,

531
00:22:20,972 --> 00:22:23,308
certainly, 
in my judgment, uh,

532
00:22:23,408 --> 00:22:25,911
considerable difference there.

533
00:22:26,011 --> 00:22:27,913
I cannot do abstracts.

534
00:22:28,013 --> 00:22:30,582
I don't do portraits.

535
00:22:30,682 --> 00:22:34,986
I had to learn 
to do, um, waterfowl, um.

536
00:22:35,087 --> 00:22:36,254
Demand--

537
00:22:36,355 --> 00:22:38,123
"Hey, can you do 
a goose painting

538
00:22:38,223 --> 00:22:39,558
or a duck painting?"

539
00:22:39,658 --> 00:22:41,159
"Well, yeah I can try,"

540
00:22:41,259 --> 00:22:44,229
and that took a while to-- 
to develop that.

541
00:22:44,329 --> 00:22:45,964
I was so into fish

542
00:22:46,064 --> 00:22:49,968
that anything else 
was a real challenge.

543
00:22:50,068 --> 00:22:53,839
I simply had to learn-- 
and I'm still learning there,

544
00:22:53,939 --> 00:22:58,343
so--whoa--after, whatever, 
70-some years just to be sure.

545
00:22:58,443 --> 00:23:02,114
Now, every day, I-- 
I learn something, I hope.

546
00:23:02,214 --> 00:23:04,416
(narrator) 
This ever-learning, 
ever-fresh artist

547
00:23:04,516 --> 00:23:06,985
has plenty of opportunity 
to hone his technique

548
00:23:07,085 --> 00:23:08,987
and paint even more 
new subjects

549
00:23:09,087 --> 00:23:12,657
because his daughter Diane 
operates a taxidermy business

550
00:23:12,758 --> 00:23:16,228
as part 
of their Wake County studio.

551
00:23:16,328 --> 00:23:19,331
Well, I do remember, 
he would work--

552
00:23:19,431 --> 00:23:20,699
paint at night

553
00:23:20,799 --> 00:23:24,436
when he would come home 
from work, so, um,

554
00:23:24,536 --> 00:23:27,906
I would spend time there 
in his--in his workroom,

555
00:23:28,006 --> 00:23:31,410
and he may have had a-- 
a duck wing, um,

556
00:23:31,510 --> 00:23:33,745
those kinds of things 
that he was workin' on.

557
00:23:33,845 --> 00:23:36,181
So that's a very early 
memory for me.

558
00:23:36,281 --> 00:23:38,250
(narrator) 
And that's not 
the only difference.

559
00:23:38,350 --> 00:23:41,253
Having Diane so close by 
has been a blessing...

560
00:23:41,353 --> 00:23:42,921
both ways.

561
00:23:43,021 --> 00:23:44,456
(Braswell) 
It's great.

562
00:23:44,556 --> 00:23:48,226
He works in this section, 
and I work downstairs

563
00:23:48,326 --> 00:23:50,295
in my section, um.

564
00:23:50,395 --> 00:23:54,299
Even though we work, maybe, 
together all day long,

565
00:23:54,399 --> 00:23:58,437
we may not have a whole lot 
of interaction some days,

566
00:23:58,537 --> 00:24:00,038
and then other days,

567
00:24:00,138 --> 00:24:04,843
he'll advise me 
on bill color of ducks

568
00:24:04,943 --> 00:24:10,081
or, uh, habitat material, 
things like that

569
00:24:10,182 --> 00:24:12,818
that he's, uh-- 
helps me with.

570
00:24:12,918 --> 00:24:15,086
I've done a lot 
of commercial deer heads

571
00:24:15,187 --> 00:24:18,190
over the years, 
but my, um--

572
00:24:18,290 --> 00:24:21,393
my preference 
was always with waterfowl.

573
00:24:21,493 --> 00:24:23,795
There's so many 
different species,

574
00:24:23,895 --> 00:24:27,299
different poses-- 
flying, standing, uh--

575
00:24:27,399 --> 00:24:29,334
a lot more interesting.

576
00:24:29,434 --> 00:24:31,336
♪

577
00:24:31,436 --> 00:24:34,206
(narrator) 
Both father and daughter 
consult the real thing

578
00:24:34,306 --> 00:24:35,740
from time to time,

579
00:24:35,841 --> 00:24:37,742
including a stash 
of bird wings

580
00:24:37,843 --> 00:24:40,278
Duane keeps 
in a file cabinet.

581
00:24:40,378 --> 00:24:42,380
When painting something 
as elaborate

582
00:24:42,481 --> 00:24:44,983
and finely detailed 
as this mother wood duck

583
00:24:45,083 --> 00:24:46,351
and her hatchlings,

584
00:24:46,451 --> 00:24:48,887
he often refers 
to actual specimens,

585
00:24:48,987 --> 00:24:52,457
much like Audubon did 
for his life studies.

586
00:24:52,557 --> 00:24:54,459
♪

587
00:24:54,559 --> 00:24:56,828
Now let's finish up 
with a story

588
00:24:56,928 --> 00:24:59,097
plus a keen observation.

589
00:25:00,265 --> 00:25:02,501
This is an original 
watercoloring

590
00:25:02,601 --> 00:25:05,270
that Duane Raver did in 1946

591
00:25:05,370 --> 00:25:08,406
when he was a student 
at Iowa State College.

592
00:25:08,507 --> 00:25:10,475
And this was found in a--

593
00:25:10,575 --> 00:25:13,044
in a--a pile 
of belongings, uh,

594
00:25:13,144 --> 00:25:16,948
from one of his college mates 
back in--in those days.

595
00:25:17,048 --> 00:25:18,783
And, uh, the daughter

596
00:25:18,884 --> 00:25:21,152
of the college friend 
found this,

597
00:25:21,253 --> 00:25:23,622
didn't know 
who Duane Raver was,

598
00:25:23,722 --> 00:25:24,990
googled the name,

599
00:25:25,090 --> 00:25:27,325
and found out 
that he was an artist and--

600
00:25:27,425 --> 00:25:29,494
and an illustrator 
famous in North Carolina,

601
00:25:29,594 --> 00:25:31,263
contacted Duane, and--

602
00:25:31,363 --> 00:25:34,032
and asked what to do 
with this original artwork.

603
00:25:34,132 --> 00:25:35,300
Duane said,

604
00:25:35,400 --> 00:25:37,168
"Send it to the Wildlife 
Resources Commission,

605
00:25:37,269 --> 00:25:39,037
and they'll be proud 
to display it,"

606
00:25:39,137 --> 00:25:41,172
and this is one 
of our proudest items

607
00:25:41,273 --> 00:25:44,042
we're glad to have 
from, uh, 1946.

608
00:25:44,142 --> 00:25:47,312
Even today, uh, 
when I go across the state,

609
00:25:47,412 --> 00:25:49,481
or sometimes people 
will call in

610
00:25:49,581 --> 00:25:51,449
or send a letter in,

611
00:25:51,550 --> 00:25:53,919
and they will talk about 
seeing Duane's paintings

612
00:25:54,019 --> 00:25:55,987
on the cover 
when they were growin' up

613
00:25:56,087 --> 00:25:58,056
or the fact that they have 
Duane's paintings

614
00:25:58,156 --> 00:25:59,491
in their house now,

615
00:25:59,591 --> 00:26:02,193
and how much pleasure 
they get from that,

616
00:26:02,294 --> 00:26:04,696
and I-- 
I think a large part of that

617
00:26:04,796 --> 00:26:08,233
goes back to them seein' 
those paintings on a cover

618
00:26:08,333 --> 00:26:09,834
when they were children,

619
00:26:09,935 --> 00:26:13,238
and, you know, 
Duane's paintings

620
00:26:13,338 --> 00:26:18,577
evoke, I think, a nostalgia, 
uh, for those people.

621
00:26:18,677 --> 00:26:21,079
I--I mean, 
I know they do for me.

622
00:26:21,179 --> 00:26:22,814
It's hard to think 
about wildlife

623
00:26:22,914 --> 00:26:24,182
in North Carolina

624
00:26:24,282 --> 00:26:26,451
and not think 
about Duane Raver.

625
00:26:26,551 --> 00:26:28,587
[harmonica concludes 
guitar tune]

626
00:26:28,687 --> 00:26:30,789
♪

627
00:26:33,491 --> 00:26:35,493
[insects buzzing]

628
00:26:41,333 --> 00:26:43,902
[echoing 
electric guitar score]

629
00:26:44,002 --> 00:26:52,177
♪

630
00:26:52,277 --> 00:27:00,919
♪

631
00:27:01,019 --> 00:27:02,988
[percussion joins]

632
00:27:03,088 --> 00:27:18,003
♪

633
00:27:18,103 --> 00:27:28,046
♪

634
00:27:28,146 --> 00:27:30,048
Caption Editors 
Will Halman & C.A. Satterfield

635
00:27:30,148 --> 00:27:33,385
Caption Perfect, Inc. 
CaptionPerfect.com

636
00:27:33,485 --> 00:27:39,858
♪

637
00:27:39,958 --> 00:27:42,594
(announcer) 
To subscribe 
to Our State magazine,

638
00:27:42,694 --> 00:27:46,431
visit the Web site 
ourstate.com or call...

639
00:27:50,935 --> 00:27:53,471
[strings support 
gentle piano melody]

640
00:27:53,571 --> 00:27:56,975
From the time BB&T 
opened its doors in 1872

641
00:27:57,075 --> 00:27:58,576
in the town of Wilson,

642
00:27:58,677 --> 00:28:00,712
we've supported 
the people and communities

643
00:28:00,812 --> 00:28:02,147
of North Carolina

644
00:28:02,247 --> 00:28:05,283
from the Outer Banks 
to the Blue Ridge Mountains.

645
00:28:05,383 --> 00:28:08,186
We've been in business 
for 136 years,

646
00:28:08,286 --> 00:28:11,256
making us the oldest bank 
in North Carolina.

647
00:28:11,356 --> 00:28:13,158
We're proud 
of this distinction,

648
00:28:13,258 --> 00:28:15,060
and we're also very proud

649
00:28:15,160 --> 00:28:17,696
to provide funding 
for Our State .

650
00:28:17,796 --> 00:28:19,898
♪

651
00:28:20,899 --> 00:28:22,901
Quality public television 
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652
00:28:23,001 --> 00:28:24,402
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653
00:28:24,502 --> 00:28:26,004
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654
00:28:26,104 --> 00:28:30,308
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