>> Sreenivasan: THE NEWLY-NAMED
NORTH MACEDONIA IS ONE STEP
CLOSER TO BECOMING THE 30th
MEMBER OF NATO AFTER A
UNANIMOUS VOTE THIS WEEK BY
THEIR PARLIAMENT IN FAVOR OF
MEMBERSHIP.
THIS COMES AFTER A PROTRACTED
DISPUTE WITH GREECE OVER THE
COUNTRY'S PREVIOUS NAME AND
EVEN ITS ARCHITECTURE.
IT'S A POLITICAL CRISIS WHICH,
AS NEWSHOUR WEEKEND SPECIAL
CORRESPONDENT CHRISTOPHER
LIVESAY REPORTS, IS REFLECTED IN
THE SKYLINE OF THE CAPITAL CITY
OF SKOPJE.
( CHURCH BELLS RINGING )
>> Reporter: YOU MIGHT NOT
EXPECT BIG THINGS FROM THE
CAPITAL OF A LANDLOCKED BALKAN
COUNTRY THAT'S SMALLER THAN THE
STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE, BUT
SKOPJE, NORTH MACEDONIA, MIGHT
SURPRISE YOU.
THERE ARE THE TYPICAL TOURIST
SITES LIKE THIS ANCIENT
FORTRESS, AND A SPRAWLING
OTTOMAN BAZAAR WHERE THE LOCAL
SPECIALTY, MACEDONIAN PEPPERS,
ARE SOLD BY THE BAG-FULL.
THESE PALE GREEN "ZELENI
PIPERKI" ARE ON THE HOT SIDE.
BUT WHAT REALLY MAKES SKOPJE
SPECIAL IS THIS.
AND THIS.
AND THESE.
HUNDREDS OF STATUES, AND
CLASSICAL-LOOKING BUT ACTUALLY
BRAND-NEW FACADES ON DOZENS OF
BUILDINGS IN THE CITY CENTER.
WHAT'S THE NAME OF THE SQUARE
HERE?
>> MACEDONIA.
>> Reporter: MACEDONIA SQUARE.
>> YES.
>> Reporter: NIKOLA SRBOV, A
HISTORIAN AND ADVISOR TO THE
STATE ARCHIVES, SAYS THIS WAS
ALL BUILT BY THE GOVERNMENT JUST
A FEW YEARS AGO, A PROJECT
CALLED "SKOPJE 2014."
THE IDEA WAS TO GIVE A FACELIFT
TO THIS FORMERLY COMMUNIST CITY,
BOOST NATIONAL PRIDE AND ATTRACT
TOURISTS, TOO.
>> ( translated ): IN A WAY, THE
CITY HAS GROWN INTO SOMETHING
MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN IT USED TO
BE.
>> Reporter: MUSEUMS AND
GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS BOAST
COLUMNS AND MARBLE LOOK-ALIKE
FACADES THAT ARE MEANT TO LOOK
HUNDREDS OF YEARS OLD BUT ARE
LESS THAN TEN.
THERE'S ALSO A TRIUMPHAL ARCH
AND TWO NEW BRIDGES ACROSS THE
VARDA RIVER THAT HAVE ON THEM
ABOUT 30 STATUES EACH.
NOT EVERYONE HAS BEEN IMPRESSED.
THE "NEW YORK TIMES" CALLED THE
REMODELED CITY ONE OF THE
"KITSCHIEST" CAPITALS ON THE
PLANET.
TOURISTS WE MET SEEMED BEMUSED.
>> IT'’’S AMAZING.
WE NEVER-- WE'VE BEEN IN MORE
THAN 36 COUNTRIES.
WE'VE NEVER SEEN THIS NUMBER OF
STATUES EVERYWHERE.
>> SOMEBODY MENTIONED THAT THIS
MONUMENT, DISNEYLAND MONUMENTS.
>> Reporter: DISNEYLAND
MONUMENTS?
>> YES.
A LOT OF COMMENTS HAPPEN.
>> Reporter: ZORAN ZAEV IS THE
HEAD OF NORTH MACEDONIA'S RULING
PARTY.
HE WAS PRIME MINISTER UP UNTIL
RECENTLY.
HE RESIGNED LAST MONTH AFTER THE
COUNTRY FAILED TO WIN MEMBERSHIP
IN THE EUROPEAN UNION.
HE SAYS THE BUILDING PROJECT,
WHICH WAS LAUNCHED BY THE
COUNTRY'S PREVIOUS RIGHT-WING
NATIONALIST GOVERNMENT, IS
PARTLY TO BLAME FOR SETTING THE
COUNTRY BACK.
>> I DON'T WANT TO COMMENT THE
STYLE, BUT I ALWAYS COMMENT TO
SPEND ONE BILLION EURO.
>> Reporter: ONE BILLION EUROS?
>> YES, FOR THAT MONUMENTS AND
MUSEUMS IN THE CENTER OF OUR
CAPITAL, IT'’’S REALLY STUPID.
IT'S VERY WRONG FOR DEVELOPING
COUNTRY WHERE IS A LOT OF POOR
PEOPLE.
>> Reporter: IN FACT, WHILE
TOURISM NUMBERS ARE UP IN THE
LAST SEVERAL YEARS, IT'S STILL
A VERY SMALL PERCENTAGE OF THE
COUNTRY'’’S ECONOMY.
THE AVERAGE NET INCOME HERE IS
ONLY ABOUT $450 A MONTH.
WHEN YOU WALK TO THE BACK OF THE
BUILDING, YOU SEE, WELL, IT'S
NOT EXACTLY WHAT IT SEEMS.
PEEKING BEHIND THE NEOCLASSICAL
FACADES GIVES A GLIMPSE OF THE
REALITY OF HOW PEOPLE LIVE.
INSULATION IN MOST APARTMENTS
AND HOMES IS SO BAD, HEATING CAN
COST UP TO HALF AN AVERAGE
SALARY.
IN JUST ONE HOUR SOUTH OF
SKOPJE, THE ISSUE ISN'T FAKE
FACADES.
>> CULTURAL HERITAGE TO ALL OF
US, AND IT SHOULD BE SOMETHING
THAT UNITES US, NOT DIVIDES US.
>> Reporter: ARCHEOLOGIST GOCE
PAVLOVSKI IS WORKING ON RESEARCH
AND PROTECTION OF THE ANCIENT
CITY OF STOBI.
HERE ARTIFACTS LIKE THESE CHURCH
MOSAICS DATE BACK TO 400 A.D.
>> THE GAMES WOULD START IN THE
MORNING.
>> Reporter: EVEN OLDER IS THIS
ROMAN THEATER.
AND OLDER STILL, RUINS OF
STRUCTURES DATING TO THE TIME OF
ALEXANDER THE GREAT.
FOR PAVLOVSKI, IT'S ALL PART OF
A BIGGER PICTURE.
ARCHAEOLOGY, HE SAYS, SHOWS HOW
PEOPLE IN THE REGION SHARE A
SINGLE HERITAGE.
MODERN BORDERS ARE A KIND OF
POLITICAL MIRAGE.
AND WHO GETS TO CLAIM THIS?
WHO GETS TO SAY, "THIS IS MY
HISTORY"?
>> HUMANITY.
I WOULD SAY HUMANITY.
YOU-- YOU DON'’’T CLAIM HISTORY.
HISTORY IS THERE.
HISTORY IS NOT THE PROPERTY OF
CERTAIN NATIONS.
IT'S THE PROPERTY OF THE
TERRITORY WHERE PEOPLE LIVE.
SO, THE RULERS CAN CHANGE, THE
COUNTRIES CAN CHANGE, THEIR
BORDERS CAN CHANGE, AND THE
HISTORY STAYS THERE.
>> Reporter: AS FOR ALL THE
STATUES IN SKOPJE, WELL, THEY'RE
SUBJECT TO HISTORY, TOO.
>> PART OF OUR CITIZENS ARE IN
FAVOR TO TAKE OUT THESE
MONUMENTS, TO TAKE IT OUT.
>> Reporter: IT'S THAT
CONTROVERSIAL.
>> TO PUT THEM IN OTHER PLACES.
AND THAT COST MONEY ALSO.
IT'S NOT EASIER TO DO-- TO DO
IT.
EVERY DOLLAR, EVERY DINAR FOR US
IS VERY PRECIOUS TO FIND
SOLUTIONS FOR EVERYDAY PROBLEMS.
EVERY MONEY, WHAT WE HAVE IT,
WE MUST PUT IN OUR HEALTH
SYSTEM, IN OUR EDUCATION SYSTEM,
NEW JOBS FOR OUR YOUNG PEOPLE.
THAT IS THE HIGH DISCUSSION IN
OUR SOCIETY.
>> Reporter: ZAEV HOPES, IF
HIS PRO-WESTERN PARTY WINS IN
UPCOMING ELECTIONS THIS SPRING,
IT WILL HELP RENEW THE CHANCES
THE COUNTRY WILL BE ADMITTED TO
THE E.U.
BUILDING FRIENDSHIPS, HE SAYS,
IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN BUILDING
MONUMENTS TO THE PAST.