>> male announcer: WELCOME TO TRAVELSCOPE, WITH JOSEPH ROSENDO, WHERE EACH WEEK, YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT. >> Rosendo: TODAY ON TRAVELSCOPE, I EXPLORE TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA'S ISLAND STATE, WHEN WE FACE ITS CONVICT PAST, TAKE IN ITS NATURAL BEAUTY, AND MEET THE DEVIL. [animal screeching] >> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES. DK CITY, COUNTRY, AND DRIVING GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, 3-D MAPPING AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR KEY SITES, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES. DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU. >> Rosendo: BEYOND ITS COLORFUL CONVICT PAST, TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA'S ISLAND STATE, IS NOTED FOR ITS NATURAL ATTRACTIONS. JOIN ME ON MY TASMANIAN ADVENTURE. FOUNDED IN 1804, HOBART IS THE SECOND OLDEST CITY IN AUSTRALIA, AND IT'S NOTED FOR ITS HARBOR, FINE WEATHER, AND SATURDAY MARKET. LET'S GO CHECK IT OUT. [lively instrumental music] ♪ ♪ >> THE GOOD THING ABOUT SHEEP'S MILK IS, IT'S EXTREMELY HEALTHY FOR YOU, AND THAT'S WHAT WE'RE TRYING TO TELL PEOPLE ABOUT. >> Rosendo: IS THIS SOMETHING THAT HAPPENS A LOT IS THIS AREA, THE CHEESES? >> AUSTRALIA'S ALWAYS BEEN ABOUT THE WOOL, MERINO WOOL, AND LAMB FOR MEAT, BUT NEVER ANYTHING AS FAR AS MILKING OR MAKING OTHER PRODUCTS FROM IT. SO IT'S ONLY BEEN AROUND TEN YEARS IN AUSTRALIA. AND SHEEP'S MILK AND SHEEP'S CHEESE HAS BEEN AROUND FOR 600 YEARS IN EUROPE. >> Rosendo: WHAT'S THIS? PINOT PASTE? >> YEAH, NOW, THIS IS SOMETHING QUITE UNIQUE. ONE DAY, WE HOPE WE'LL SEND THIS ALL AROUND THE WORLD. LET'S HOPE SO. >> Rosendo: OH, THAT'S VERY GOOD. IT TASTES LIKE A VERY NICE JAM OR SOMETHING. >> YEAH, ABSOLUTELY. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, VERY MUCH. THANK YOU, THANK YOU. >> IF ANYONE NEEDS TO KNOW HOW TO CROCHET, IT'S A VERY SIMPLE PROCESS. >> Rosendo: IS IT RELAXING? >> VERY MUCH SO, YEAH. SPINNING IS TOO. SPINNING'S FANTASTIC, BECAUSE IT'S THE MOVEMENT. IT'S VERY STRESS-RELIEVING. >> Rosendo: SO WE COULD SAVE A LOT OF MONEY ON VALIUM BY CROCHETING. >> AND YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN CLOTHES AT THE SAME TIME. >> Rosendo: AT THE SAME TIME. BUT DON'T YOU THINK YOU NEED TO HAVE A CERTAIN KIND OF HEAD TO WEAR A BEANIE? >> [laughing] >> Rosendo: I NEVER HAVE-- >> THAT'S YOUR PERCEPTION. >> Rosendo: I NEVER HAVE THOUGHT THAT I LOOKED GOOD IN A BEANIE. >> NOW, THIS IS--THIS IS AN AUSTRALIAN BEANIE, OKAY? SO THIS IS AUSTRALIAN. THIS IS THE BEANIE. >> Rosendo: THIS IS NOT NECESSARILY TASMANIAN; IT'S AUSTRALIAN. >> WELL, YEAH. >> Rosendo: OH, YEAH, I LIKE-- >> YEAH? >> Rosendo: IF I HAD A PEA COAT OR SOMETHING, I'D LOOK LIKE A MERCHANT MARINE. THIS IS GOOD. OKAY, THANK YOU. >> OKAY, BUH-BYE. >> APPLES! $2.50 A KILO! >> Rosendo: SO YOU GUYS GERMAN? >> YES. >> Rosendo: ARE YOU? YEAH, EINE. >> Rosendo: AH, HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN HERE? >> OH, A LONG TIME. WE CAME IN '82. >> Rosendo: IN '82, GREAT. >> WE CAME FOR A HOLIDAY. >> Rosendo: CAME FOR A HOLIDAY. >> HAD A GOOD LOOK AND THEN DECIDED IT'S TIME FOR A SEA CHANGE. AND THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT SAUSAGE IS HERE. >> Rosendo: NO. >> YEAH, IN GERMANY OUR SAUSAGE IS EVERYWHERE. >> Rosendo: EVERYWHERE. WHICH BRATWURST WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? >> MY BEST ONE IS THE THUERINGER BRATWURST. THAT IS A PORK BRATWURST. >> Rosendo: OKAY. >> WOULD YOU LIKE SOME ONION OR SAUERKRAUT? >> Rosendo: OH, OF COURSE. >> BOTH, ONION AND SAUERKRAUT. >> Rosendo: YOU'RE GONNA HAVE SOMETHING GERMAN, YOU GOT TO HAVE A LITTLE SAUERKRAUT AND ONION WITH IT. >> AND GERMAN MUSTARD. >> Rosendo: AND GERMAN MUSTARD. [laughter] THESE ARE GOOD. VERY GOOD. THESE ARE WONDERFUL. JUST LIKE BEING IN BAVARIA. IT'S ONLY A FIVE-MINUTE WALK UP KELLY STEP FROM SALAMANCA MARKET TO BATTERY POINT, ONE OF THE MOST HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOODS HERE IN HOBART. IT WAS ORIGINALLY A PLACE WHERE THE WORKING CLASS LIVED, AND THEN IT BECAME THE HOMES OF THE RICH AND FAMOUS. STILL HAS A 19TH-CENTURY-VILLAGE FEEL. HOBART WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1803 AS A PENAL COLONY. AND THE APARTMENTS, HOMES, AND QUAINT SHOPS ON BATTERY POINT DATE FROM THE FIRST EUROPEAN SETTLEMENT. FROM THE PICTURESQUE BATTERY POINT NEIGHBORHOOD, I HEAD DOWN TO HOBART HARBOR, WHOSE FLEET RANGES FROM PLEASURE BOATS TO BATTLESHIPS AND OFFERS A CHOICE OF WATER SPORTS FROM SAILING TO KAYAKING. >> NOW, I HEAR YOU LIKE FISH AND CHIPS. >> Rosendo: IT'S HEARD TELL THAT I DO. >> HELLO. [indistinct speech] >> I'LL COME ROUND HERE. >> Rosendo: NOW, THIS IS WHAT I CALL TAKEOUT. THANK YOU! >> BYE. >> Rosendo: SIMON, THIS IS PRETTY NICE. OUR VISTA, IS THIS DOWNTOWN HOBART? >> PRETTY MUCH. THE CENTER'S NEXT ROAD UP, SO WE'RE VERY, VERY CLOSE. >> Rosendo: NOW, HOBART IS THE SECOND OLDEST CITY IN AUSTRALIA, BUT THE FIRST PEOPLE WHO CAME HERE, THOUGH, WEREN'T REAL HAPPY TO BE HERE. >> NO, THE CONVICTS PROBABLY DIDN'T REALLY CARE TO COME DOWN HERE, BUT WE LOOK AT IT ANOTHER WAY; IT WAS FREE LABOR. >> Rosendo: THAT'S WHERE ALL THOSE BEAUTIFUL HOMES OVER ON THE BATTERY GOT BUILT. >> ABSOLUTELY, THOSE WONDERFUL SANDSTONE HOMES, AND ALSO THE CONVICT BRICKS THEY MADE THE HOUSES OF TOO. >> Rosendo: IS THAT WHAT THEY CALLED THEM, CONVICT BRICKS? >> ABSOLUTELY, HAVE A LOOK AT THEM; THERE'S A LITTLE THUMB MARK IN THE BRICK ITSELF WHERE THEY ACTUALLY PUT INDENTS INTO EACH OF THE BRICKS. >> Rosendo: TO LEARN MORE ABOUT TASMANIA'S CONVICT PAST, I TRAVELED JUST 36 MILES TO THE FORMER PRISON COLONY AT PORT ARTHUR. WITHOUT A DOUBT, THE NUMBER ONE TOURIST ATTRACTION IN TASMANIA IS PORT ARTHUR. AND PORT ARTHUR IS FAMOUS FOR SOME PRETTY UNSAVORY THINGS. >> IT CERTAINLY IS. REMEMBER THAT OVER 12,000 SENTENCES WERE SERVED HERE AT PORT ARTHUR, AND SOME OF THESE MEN WERE CONSIDERED TO BE THE MOST HARDENED CRIMINALS IN THE BRITISH EMPIRE. >> Rosendo: SO HERE WE ARE INSIDE THE PENITENTIARY. AND WHAT DID YOU SAY? 600 PRISONERS? >> YES, YES, JUST SHORT OF 600 PRISONERS. SO ON THIS LOWER LEVEL WAS WHERE THE CONVICTS IN HEAVY CHAINS WERE HOUSED, AND HEAVY CHAINS HERE WEIGHED 30 POUNDS. AND THOSE CONVICTS EVEN SLEPT IN THOSE IRONS. ON THE LEVEL ABOVE WAS WHERE THE CONVICTS IN LIGHT CHAINS. THEY WERE SLIGHTLY BETTER BEHAVED, SO THEIR CHAINS WEIGHED ONLY 15 POUNDS. NOW, ON THE LEVEL ABOVE THAT, THERE WAS A DINING HALL, A LIBRARY, A SCHOOL ROOM, A ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL. AND ON THE TOP FLOOR, THE DORMITORY LEVEL, THERE WAS A DORMITORY WHERE 348 OF THE BETTER-BEHAVED CONVICTS LIVED. >> Rosendo: NOW, DID THE CONVICTS MAKE THEIR OWN ACCOMMODATIONS, SO TO SPEAK? >> THEY DID. ALL THESE BUILDINGS WERE BUILT USING CONVICT LABOR, AND ALL THE MATERIALS THAT WENT INTO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THESE BUILDINGS WAS MADE BY THE CONVICTS, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE BARS FOR THE WINDOWS AND THE LOCKS FOR THE DOORS. FOR SOME REASON, THE AUTHORITIES DIDN'T TRUST THE CONVICTS MAKING THOSE ITEMS. >> Rosendo: THEY MIGHT NOT BE SO PERFECT. >> NOT SO PERFECT. THIS CELL BEHIND ME, REALLY, WAS THE APEX OF PUNISHMENT, IF YOU LIKE. THE IDEA OF SEPARATION AND ISOLATION IN A SEPARATE PRISON, THIS ADDED ANOTHER FACTOR. THAT WAS COMPLETE DARKNESS. AND FOR 24 HOURS A DAY-- >> Rosendo: 24 HOURS? >> 24 HOURS A DAY, NO NATURAL LIGHT, NO ARTIFICIAL LIGHT, NO HUMAN INTERACTION AT ALL. A CONVICT HERE NAMED WILLIAM DARENCOURT, TO MAINTAIN HIS SANITY, HE CLAIMED THAT HE TORE A BUTTON OFF HIS SHIRT AND FLICKED IT INTO THE CORNER OF THAT CELL, AND HE SPENT THE NEXT TWO DAYS CRAWLING AROUND LOOKING FOR IT. TO TRY TO ESCAPE SUCH AN ENVIRONMENT, CONVICTS DID GO TO QUITE DRASTIC MEASURES. THERE'S EVIDENCE THAT THE PRACTICE OF DRAWING STRAWS TOOK PLACE HERE AT PORT ARTHUR, AND THAT'S AN OBLIQUE REFERENCE TO WHERE A GROUP OF CONVICTS TOGETHER WOULD DRAW STRAWS. THE CONVICT WHO DREW THE SHORTEST STRAW WOULD BE MURDERED BY ONE OF THE OTHER CONVICTS. SO HE ESCAPED BY BEING KILLED. THE CONVICT, OF COURSE, WHO COMMITTED THE MURDER, HE WOULD BE TRIED FOR MURDER IN HOBART, AND HE WOULD BE HANGED, AND SO HE'D ESCAPE AS WELL. AND THE OTHER CONVICTS PARTY TO THE DRAWING OF STRAW, THEY'D BE SENT TO HOBART AS WITNESSES FOR THE PROSECUTION FOR THE MURDER, AND OF COURSE, THEY WOULD RECEIVE A COUPLE WEEKS HOLIDAY. >> Rosendo: THAT'S FAIRLY DESPERATE. >> IT IS. AND IT PERHAPS GIVES YOU AN INDICATION AS TO THE EXPERIENCE MANY OF THESE PRISONERS ENDURED HERE AT PORT ARTHUR. >> Rosendo: WELL, I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR SHOWING US THE UNDERSIDE OF THIS EXPERIENCE. I THINK IT'S WONDERFUL THAT THE PEOPLE OF AUSTRALIA AND THE PEOPLE OF TASMANIA HAVE KIND OF EMBRACED IT AS PART OF THEIR HISTORY THAT THEY NEED TO MAKE THEIR OWN AND CELEBRATE, IN A WAY. >> IT CAN'T BE UNDERSTATED, THE IMPORTANCE OF PORT ARTHUR TO AUSTRALIA'S STORY. >> Rosendo: HMM, NOW, I'M SURE A LOT OF THESE CONVICTS, THE ONES THAT GOT FREE, THEY DID NOT GO BACK TO GREAT BRITAIN. THEY SETTLED IN AUSTRALIA. I MEAN, WHAT IS THE STATUS OF HAVING A CONVICT IN YOUR PAST THESE DAYS? >> ONCE UPON A TIME, IT WAS A FACT THAT YOU TRIED TO CONCEAL. >> Rosendo: UH-HUH. >> BUT NOW IT'S VIEWED AS COLONIAL ROYALTY. >> Rosendo: [chuckles] >> SO PEOPLE NOW SEARCH FOR AS MANY CONVICT ANCESTORS AS THEY COULD POSSIBLY FIND. >> Rosendo: DO YOU HAVE ANY? >> MYSELF? NO. I DON'T. >> Rosendo: YOU COULD MAKE ONE UP. >> WE COULD MAKE ONE UP. >> Rosendo: SOME OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF CONVICTS MADE THEIR FUTURE IN LAUNCESTON. AT 100,000 INHABITANTS, TODAY IT'S TASMANIA'S SECOND LARGEST CITY. FROM THE HEART OF TOWN, IT'S ONLY A 15-MINUTE WALK TO THIS BEAUTIFUL NATURAL AREA. TWO WAYS TO GET THERE. THERE'S THE ZIG ZAG TRACK, WHICH TAKES YOU UP AND OVER. THAT'S THE ONE I TOOK IN. AND THEN HERE'S THE CATARACT WALK, WHICH TAKES YOU RIGHT ALONG THE GORGE. [water rushing] AND AT THE END OF THE WALKS, THERE'S A BEAUTIFUL PARKLIKE SETTING HERE AT FIRST BASIN AND THE LONGEST SINGLE-SPAN CHAIRLIFT IN THE WORLD FROM WHERE TO TAKE IT ALL IN. FROM CATARACT GORGE, THE TAMAR RIVER EMPTIES INTO LAUNCESTON BAY WHERE, AT THE STILLWATER RESTAURANT, I'M INTRODUCED TO A TASMANIAN CULINARY SPECIALTY. >> THIS IS A BENNETT'S WALLABY. THIS PRODUCT COMES FROM TEN KILOMETERS AWAY, FIVE KILOMETERS AWAY. THIS WAS HARVESTED PROBABLY LAST NIGHT. SO THIS IS AS FRESH AND AS BEAUTIFUL AS YOU CAN POSSIBLY GET. >> Rosendo: HAS THERE BEEN A EVOLUTION IN THE FOOD OF TASMANIA? >> PEOPLE REALLY ARE INTERESTED IN WHAT IT IS THEY'RE EATING, HOW IT'S GOING TO AFFECT THEM, WHERE IT COMES FROM. >> Rosendo: AND SO THAT'S KIND OF A NEW MOVEMENT IN TASMANIA, TOO, PEOPLE COOKING LIKE THAT, RIGHT? >> Rosendo: MORE AND MORE, IT'S REALLY GOOD. >> Rosendo: NOW, I KNOW THERE'S A LOT OF GREAT WINES IN TASMANIA. >> IN AUSTRALIA, THERE'S PROBABLY A DOZEN PINOTS IN TASMANIA THAT'LL KNOCK THEM ALL DEAD. >> Rosendo: REALLY? YOU JUST SAID AUSTRALIA AS IF IT'S ANOTHER PLACE. >> IT'S ANOTHER GRAPE-GROWING AREA. >> Rosendo: OKAY. SO THERE'S AUSTRALIA AND TASMANIA; I'M GETTING IT. >> THERE'S AUSTRALIA AND TASMANIA. AND THIS IS A GOOD PLACE TO BE. >> Rosendo: SO, CHEF, I KNOW YOU'RE GONNA CREATE A LITTLE BIT OF ART HERE, SO I'M GONNA GO SIT MYSELF DOWN, AND THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR INTRODUCING ME TO TASMANIAN FOOD. >> YOU'RE VERY WELCOME. >> Rosendo: THANK YOU. WHEN A CHEF IS BUSY MAKING MAGIC, IT'S BEST TO STAY OUT OF HIS WAY. >> HERE'S THE MOMENT OF TRUTH. HERE WE ARE. THIS IS YOUR LOIN OF WALLABY. >> Rosendo: LOOK AT THAT. >> AND THEN YOU'VE GOT TO TRY THE WINE WITH IT AND SEE HOW IT--SEE HOW IT ALL ADDS UP. WELCOME TO TASMANIA. >> Rosendo: THANK YOU VERY MUCH. THIS IS A VERY GOOD START. >> GOOD. >> Rosendo: THANK YOU, CHEF. >> OKAY, YOU'RE VERY WELCOME. >> Rosendo: OH, WOW, WHAT A NICE COMBINATION OF WINE AND FOOD. AND ISN'T THAT WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT? CHEERS. I'M IN SOUTHEAST TASMANIA ON THE FREYCINET PENINSULA, LOOKING OUT ON THE HAZARDS, THESE BEAUTIFUL PINK GRANITE PEAKS. TOMORROW I'LL BE CROSSING OVER THE SADDLE TO WINEGLASS BAY. YOU COULD SAY I'M GOING FROM WINEGLASS TO WINEGLASS. NEXT MORNING AT DAWN'S EARLY LIGHT, I SET OUT ON PURE TASMANIA'S WINEGLASS-TO-WINEGLASS EXPERIENCE. WITH A BLAZING SUNRISE AS A BACKDROP, I HURRY TO JOIN MY GROUP FOR OUR TREK BETWEEN MOUNT DOVE AND MOUNT AMOS. >> WE'RE ABOUT HALFWAY UP OUR HILLSIDE TODAY. AND LOOKING BACK DOWN BEHIND ME, YOU CAN SEE THE AREA OF COLES BAY. GREAT OYSTER, BY ITSELF, IS ACTUALLY THIS LARGER AREA ENCLOSED ON THREE SIDES BY THE PENINSULA. >> Rosendo: ARE THERE OYSTERS IN GREAT OYSTER BAY? >> WELL, THERE ARE GREAT OYSTERS. THE "GREAT" ACTUALLY REFERS TO THE SIZE OF THE BAY. AS FAR AS BAYS GO, IT'S VERY BIG. THERE ARE A LOT OF OYSTERS THERE. WHETHER THEY'RE GREAT OR NOT, YOU'LL HAVE TO TRY SOME AND TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK. BUT THEY WERE THE MAIN FOOD SOURCE FOR THE INDIGENOUS PEOPLE THAT LIVED HERE FOR A GOOD 30,000 YEARS BEFORE EUROPEANS ARRIVED. COLES BAY, ITSELF, WE GET THAT NAME FROM AN EX-CONVICT WHO LIVED IN THIS AREA, HUNDREDS OF YEARS AGO NOW, BY THE NAME OF SILAS COLE. ONCE HE FOUND HIS FREEDOM, HE WOULD ACTUALLY EXCAVATE THE LARGE PILES OF SHELLS THAT YOU CAN FIND IN THE SAND DUNES HERE, THE ABORIGINAL MIDDENS, AND HE COULD BURN THEM DOWN TO MAKE LIME, AND THEN HE COULD PUT THAT LIME ON A BOAT, SEND IT OVER TO SWANSEA ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE BAY, AND THAT WOULD BE THE MAIN INGREDIENT IN MORTAR TO GO INTO BRICKWORK FOR ALL THE BUILDINGS AROUND HOBART AND THE EAST COAST HERE. WE'LL JUST STOP NEAR THIS SPOT, FOLKS, JUST HAVE A QUICK LOOK AT THE GEOLOGY. THIS BOULDER RIGHT HERE IS ONE OF THE FEW SPOTS WE CAN GET RIGHT UP TO A CLEAN ROCK FACE IN THE NATIONAL PARK WHERE THERE'S NOTHING GROWING ON THE ROCK ITSELF. IF IT WASN'T FOR THIS PINK GRANITE, WE WOULDN'T HAVE THE FAMOUS WHITE SANDS THAT WE ENCOUNTERED TODAY AT WINEGLASS BAY. THE NAME WINEGLASS BAY WAS ACTUALLY GIVEN IT FROM THE GUYS THAT USED TO WORK IN THE WHALING STATION THAT WAS BASED FROM WINEGLASS BAY. NOW, THE BLOOD FROM THE WHALES WHEN THEY WERE BEING PROCESSED WOULD ACTUALLY STAIN THE WATER IN THE BAY RED, AND WHEN YOU GOT TO THIS AREA AND TURNED AROUND AND LOOKED DOWN, IT LOOKED LIKE A WINEGLASS WITH THAT CRESCENT SORT OF SHAPE BRIMMING OVER WITH RED WINE. AND THAT WAS WHERE THE NAME ACTUALLY CAME FROM. >> Rosendo: WELL, WE'RE OUT OF THE WOODS AND ON TO THE BEACH HERE AT WINEGLASS BAY. HOW ABOUT A CUPPA? A CUP OF HOT TEA AND TASTY BISCUITS FORTIFY US FOR THE WALK TO HAZARD BEACH AND THE GOURMET LUNCH AHEAD. IT'S JUST A 30-MINUTE WALK FROM WINEGLASS BAY ACROSS THE ISTHMUS TO HAZARD BEACH, WHICH IS EQUALLY AS BEAUTIFUL. WE HAD A CUP OF TEA ON WINEGLASS BAY. HERE AT HAZARD BEACH, WE'LL BE RAISING A GLASS OF WINE. CHEERS, EH? >> CHEERS. [glass clinking] >> Rosendo: AT THE END OF THE TRAIL, THERE'S LOBSTERS, MUSSELS, STEAKS, OYSTERS, AND OF COURSE, PLENTY OF FINE TASMANIAN WINE FOR THE GROUP TO CELEBRATE OVER. THANK YOU SO MUCH. >> THANKS A LOT, JOE. ENJOY YOUR TRAVELS. >> Rosendo: WHEN YOU'RE ON AN ISLAND, IT'S WATER, WATER EVERYWHERE. SO IT'S FAREWELL TO THE HAZARDS, AND OUT OF ONE BOAT, INTO ANOTHER FOR A CRUISE ALONG THE TASMAN NATIONAL PARK. HEY, MIKE DAVIDSON? >> GLAD TO MEET YOU. >> Rosendo: IT'S NICE TO MEET YOU. SO WE'RE OFF FOR A LITTLE ADVENTURE HERE ON THE TASMAN PENINSULA, HUH? >> YEAH, YEAH. ALL RIGHTY, NOW, I'M PRETTY KEEN TO GIVE YOU A GOOD DAY TODAY, SO LET US KNOW HOW WE'RE GOING. IF YOU FEEL A LITTLE BIT COLD, WE WANT TO KNOW ABOUT IT. ALTHOUGH, WE'LL PROBABLY SAY PUT UP WITH IT. [laughs] OKAY, FOLKS, NOW YOU'RE NEAR THE BLACK SHORE, HOME TO THE HIGHEST SEA CLIFFS IN AUSTRALIA. ONE OF THE HIGHEST IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE, CAPE PILLAR, 1,000 FEET OF JURASSIC DOLERITE HANGING ABOVE YOUR HEADS. HERE, FOLKS, WE CALL THIS CAVE THE GARAGE. IT'S WHERE WE COME WHEN IT RAINS. YOU KNOW YOU'RE IN A CAVE, FOLKS, WHEN YOU CAN DO THIS. [echoing horn sound] [laughs] >> Rosendo: THAT WAS FUN. THE PREHISTORIC ROCK HERE HAS REALLY MADE THIS SEASCAPE INCREDIBLE, JUST INCREDIBLE. THE LAYERS ARE JUST EXTRAORDINARY. IT MAKES FOR A PREHISTORIC-LOOKING LANDSCAPE. IT MAKES YOU FEEL VERY SMALL. MORE THAN 26,000 SQUARE MILES, TASMANIA IS ONE OF THE WORLD'S LARGEST ISLANDS, AND THE BEST WAY TO GET AROUND IS BY CAR. ALONG YOUR WAY, YOU CAN SAMPLE THE ISLAND'S CULTURAL CHARACTER IN TOWNS SUCH AS SHEFFIELD THE TOWN OF MURALS, WHOSE ARTISTS HAVE CREATED IMAGES THAT CELEBRATE THE AREA'S BEAUTY AND LOCAL HEROES, LIKE NATURALIST GUSTAV WEINDORFER. WHEREVER YOU ARE IN TASMANIA, THE WILDERNESS IS NOT FAR AWAY. AN HOUR'S DRIVE FROM SHEFFIELD IS CRADLE MOUNTAIN, LAKE ST. CLAIR NATIONAL PARK, WHOSE 300,000 ACRES ARE JUST A PART OF THE 3 MILLION ACRES THAT MAKE UP THE TASMAN WILDERNESS. MANY PEOPLE MOST LIKELY THINK OF AUSTRALIA AS BEING HOT AND DRY. WELL, HERE IN THE TASMANIAN WILDERNESS, AS YOU CAN SEE FROM THE FROST ON THE GRASS AND ALONG THE BOARDWALK, IT CAN BE VERY COLD AND VERY WET. IN 1910 GUSTAV WEINDORFER AND HIS WIFE, KATE, HONEYMOONED UNDER THESE ANCIENT KING BILLY PINES. IN 1912 THEY BUILT THEIR CABIN HERE. AND AFTER HER DEATH, HE DEVOTED HIS LIFE TO PRESERVING CRADLE MOUNTAIN. IT'S INTERESTING THAT THESE TREES ARE RELATIVES OF CALIFORNIA REDWOOD, BECAUSE THE PRESERVATION OF BEAUTIFUL NATURAL PLACES IS NEVER ABOUT GOVERNMENTS, ORGANIZATIONS. IT'S ALWAYS ABOUT INDIVIDUALS. AND WHETHER IT'S GUSTAV WEINDORFER OR JOHN MUIR AND HIS BELOVED YOSEMITE, THESE ARE THE PEOPLE WHO HAVE THE VISION TO SAVE THESE WONDERFUL NATURAL PLACES FOR EVERYONE FOR ALL TIME. SINCE 1982, THE TASMANIAN WILDERNESS HAS BEEN LISTED AS A WORLD HERITAGE SITE. THERE ARE MANY REASONS FOR A PLACE TO BE LISTED. IN FACT, THIS NATIONAL PARK FULFILLS SEVEN OF THE TEN CRITERIA, MAKING IT EXTREMELY SPECIAL. BUT FOREMOST AMONG THEM ALL IS THAT IT IS OF OUTSTANDING UNIVERSAL VALUE. EACH COUNTRY HAS ITS OWN PARTICULAR PLACES THAT THEY LOVE AND HOLD DEAR, BUT THESE PLACES THAT ARE LISTED AS WORLD HERITAGE SITES ARE SAVED FOR THE WORLD. I MEAN, THERE WERE BATTLES THAT WERE WAGED LATE '70s AND EARLY '80s. ENVIRONMENTALISTS HERE WERE TRYING TO KEEP THIS AS PRISTINE AS IT IS TODAY. THEY STRUGGLED TO PRESERVE IT AS PART OF THEIR HERITAGE, FOR THEIR POSTERITY, AND IN TURN GAVE US THIS WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL GIFT. PADEMELONS, ECHIDNAS, WOMBATS. LIKE ALL OF AUSTRALIA, TASMANIA TEEMS WITH UNIQUE WILDLIFE, YET NOTHING IS MORE SPECIAL THAN GETTING TO MEET THE DEVIL. IT'S THE TASMANIAN DEVIL. HE DOESN'T LOOK ANYTHING LIKE THE CARTOON. HE LOOKS VERY DOCILE AND A LITTLE BIT VULNERABLE, ACTUALLY. [animal screeching] OH, WELL, MAYBE YOU DO LOOK LIKE THE DEVIL. NICOLE, WHAT IS IT DO YOU DO HERE FOR PEOPLE TO INTRODUCE THEM TO THE TASMANIAN DEVIL? >> SURE, WE'RE A PRIVATE FACILITY. AND OUR MAIN AIM IS THE CAPTIVE MANAGEMENT AND BREEDING OF THE TASMANIAN DEVIL. BUT WE DO OFFER TOURS, SO PEOPLE CAN WANDER THROUGH THE FACILITY AT THEIR LEISURE DURING THE DAY. WE CONDUCT TALKS THAT THEY'RE ABLE TO BE INVOLVED IN. AND WE CONDUCT FEEDING TOURS, AND THAT GIVES EVERYBODY AN OPPORTUNITY TO OBSERVE THE FEEDING BEHAVIOR AND THE INTERACTION BETWEEN THE ANIMALS. WHAT I'M HOPING IS, I CAN LET GO OF THIS, FOLKS, AND THEY WILL BE HAPPY TO ESTABLISH THEMSELVES AROUND IT. AS IT GETS SMALLER, IT'S MORE ABOUT STEALING FROM EACH OTHER. AND SOME OF THEM WILL GET A LITTLE EXCITED AND ATTEMPT TO CUT AND RUN WITH IT, PROBABLY SHORTLY. >> Rosendo: AND ARE THEY AGGRESSIVE ANIMALS LIKE WE-- YOU KNOW, I'VE SEEN THE CARTOON, CRAZY LITTLE ANIMAL RUNNING AROUND RIPPING EVERYTHING. >> THE REAL-LIFE ANIMAL ISN'T REALLY AN AGGRESSIVE SPECIES, AND THE NOISE, THE VOCALIZATION AND ALL THEIR BLUFFING IS JUST THAT. IT'S A BLUFF, BECAUSE THEY'RE SOLITARY CARNIVORES, SO WHEN THEY COME TOGETHER AROUND FEEDING WITH OTHERS, THEY NEED TO BE ESTABLISHING THEMSELVES AS THE BIGGEST, LOUDEST, TOUGHEST DEVIL SO THAT THEY GET SOMETHING TO EAT. YEAH. HAVE A LOOK AT THAT, FOLKS. THAT'S CHALLENGING BEHAVIOR. HERE WE GO. SEE HOW THEY'RE UP ON THEIR HIND LEGS? AND IT'S MOSTLY OPEN-MOUTHED BOUNCING OFF EACH OTHER. AND WHAT HE'S DOING IS, HE'S GOT A SCENT GLAND UNDER HIS TAIL, AND HE'S MARKING HIS PRESENCE. HE'S NOT MARKING A TERRITORY, BECAUSE THEY DON'T REALLY HAVE ONE. IT'S MORE OF A MOBILE TERRITORY. SO HE'S THE TOUGH BOY AT THE MOMENT. >> Rosendo: AND THIS IS SOMETHING WE WOULD NOT, MOST LIKELY, HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO DO IN THE WILD. >> THAT'S EXACTLY RIGHT. >> Rosendo: WE WOULD PROBABLY NEVER EVEN SEE ONE. >> THAT'S RIGHT. THAT'S RIGHT, PARTICULARLY WITH THE ANIMALS FACING PROBLEMS DUE TO THE DISEASE AFFECTING THEM AT THE MOMENT, DEVIL FACIAL TUMOR DISEASE. THE POPULATION HAS DECREASED DRAMATICALLY IN A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME. >> Rosendo: THEY ARE KIND OF A NATIONAL ICON, AREN'T THEY? >> ABSOLUTELY. YOU CAN'T COME TO TASMANIA AND NOT SEE A TASMANIAN DEVIL. YOU JUST CAN'T. >> Rosendo: THANK YOU FOR JOINING ME ON MY AUSTRALIA ADVENTURE. AUSTRALIA IS FILLED WITH SURPRISES. AND DURING MY VISIT TO VICTORIAN TASMANIA, I'VE LEARNED TO EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED, A NEW COUNTRY THAT'S BEEN INHABITED FOR MORE THAN 45,000 YEARS, A LAND AS LARGE AS THE U.S. BUT LESS POPULATED THAN CALIFORNIA, A COUNTRY WHOSE FIRST CITIZENS WERE UNWILLING, AND THE NEXT, HOPEFUL IMMIGRANTS, AND THEIR LAST, ITS OWN INDIGENOUS PEOPLE. AUSTRALIA HAS TREES THAT SHED THEIR BARK, BIRDS THAT CAN'T FLY, MAMMALS THAT RATHER HOP THAN RUN, AND A DEVIL WHOSE BITE IS EVEN WORSE THAN HIS BARK. YET, ALONG WITH ALL THE THINGS YOU WON'T EXPECT IN AUSTRALIA, ONE THING YOU CAN COUNT ON IS A WARM-HEARTED WELCOME. AUSTRALIANS ARE A DOWN-TO-EARTH, GOOD-NATURED, FUN-LOVING FOLK, AND THEY REALLY DO WANT YOU TO HAVE A "G'DAY" AND TO SHARE IN THEIR LOVE FOR THEIR GREAT BIG LAND DOWN UNDER THAT HAS SUCH WONDERS IN IT. UNTIL NEXT TIME, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN: "TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS." HAPPY TRAVELING. >> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES. DK CITY, COUNTRY, AND DRIVING GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, 3-D MAPPING AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR KEY SITES, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES. DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU. FOR A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S TRAVELSCOPE ADVENTURES, CALL: OR ORDER ONLINE AT: YOU CAN ALSO EMAIL US AT: OR WRITE US AT THE ADDRESS ON YOUR SCREEN. >> Rosendo: NOW THAT YOU'VE MET THE DEVIL IN TASMANIA, LEARN MORE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET, WHERE YOU CAN FOLLOW MY WORLDWIDE ADVENTURES THROUGH MY BLOG AND PODCAST. KEEP IN TOUCH. NEXT TIME ON TRAVELSCOPE, I GO IN SEARCH OF OUR SWISS ROOTS WHEN WE UNCOVER THE PAST AND CELEBRATE THE PRESENT WITH NEW FRIENDS AND RELATIONS. Captioning by CaptionMax www.captionmax.com I LOOK ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS, DON'T I? TELL THE TRUTH. >> IT'S NOT YOUR LOOK. >> Rosendo: IT'S NOT MY-- [laughter]