- Hi, thanks for joining us

for The Family Plot:
Gardening in the Mid-South.

I'm Chris Cooper.

Spring is here and the
  lawn is greening up.

Today, we're talking
  about what to do to get it

ready for
  the growing season.

Also, we'll show how to
  calibrate your spreaders.

That's just ahead

on The Family Plot:
  Gardening in the Mid-South.

- (female announcer)
  Production funding

for The Family Plot:
  Gardening in the Mid-South

is provided by

the WKNO Production Fund,

the WKNO Endowment Fund,

and by viewers like you.

Thank you.

[upbeat country music]

- Welcome to The Family Plot.

I'm Chris Cooper.

Joining me today is
Mr. Booker T. Leigh.

Booker is a UT Extension
agent right here

in Shelby County,
and Celeste Scott

will be joining me later.

All right, Booker, so how
do we prepare the lawns

for the spring into the summer?

- Okay. At that time
of the year again

and I'm so happy to start.

I like to have that
pretty green grass.

I know everybody else like
to have that pretty green grass

or whatever grass that you have

in your landscape.

And this is a good time
to start doing things

and getting ready for that.

The first thing I start
out doing would be

getting me a soil test.

If I read that and
I had a soil test,

and then it's going to
tell you what you need to

add to your soil.

Whether you need to
add lime or what kind

of fertilizer I
need to add to it

because the soil pH is
very important in any kind

when you're trying to
grow your lawn grass

'cause for most lawn grass,

you need a soil pH
  between 6.0 and 6.5.

And the only way to tell
  that is by a soil test.

And reading everything
about that soil test,

your soil pH is very important.

- Very important.

- Very important.

If the pH is off,

if it's too high,
all the other nutrients

you put down on your lawn

is not going to be
used up by the plant.

You want to make sure
that it's used up

by the plant, and then
when you put it on there

So if not, then they're
not going to work right.

You just add fertilizer in there
and it's not doing any good.

So if you have somebody
to take care of your lawn

you need to ask them to
do a soil test sometime,

you know just do a soil test

and to make sure that you
have it, that's right.

- You're exactly right.

Your soil pH is all about
nutrient availability.

So you definitely want
to get that right.

- Another thing I
do it every year.

I like to sharpen
my lawn mower blade

before you get
started sharpening

make sure you have a
sharp blade, right?

'Cause you don't want to
start cutting the grass

with a dull blade.

When you have a dull blade,

it's not going to cut the grass.

It's just going to beat it down.

And so I sharpen mine twice
during the growing season.

Yeah. And they easy to take off.

One thing you might want to do

you might want to take the plug,

remove the spark plug wire.

You don't want people
in there working

with the spark
plug wire on there.

You want to make sure
it don't start up

or something cause you
could have an accident

and you don't want to do that.

When you take it off, then
make sure you know how

to put it back on
there because if not

and you put it back
on there wrong,

it's not going to do
a good job cutting.

When I first took mine
out the first time

I had to go back to a store

and look at the lawn mower to

see how that blade go on there.

So from now on I mark
mine when you take it

off there to make
sure you put it back

on there right.

- Right

- That's a good
thing to do in there,

but you need that sharp blade.

And that thing when
you start cutting

your lawn grass this
year if you haven't

been doing that, try to cut

in different directions.

You know, I try to do
it all the time now.

I didn't start doing it.

Then you will see that
grass begin to grow better.

You want to cut it
one way this time

then another way next time

and get that grass to stand up.

- Right.

- Because if you cut it
the same way all the time,

it's gonna be laying down.

So you need to make
sure you cut that grass

in a different direction

so it begins to
stand up in there.

- And you want it to stand up

so you can get water
and the fertilizer

- You want to get down
to where you're at.

Then another thing,
maintain the correct height.

Now I cut mine low twice.

If you haven't
  made a cut already

on that first
  couple cuttings,

I like to cut mine low.

I like to bag that grass

and get all that dead
grass out of there.

- Okay.

- Then I started
working more to the

correct height and cut
for during the summertime.

And you should have
that pretty grass

or something when you start

doing that and stuff in there.

So the other thing
you want to do

to your lawnmower in
there, check it out,

make sure you're ready to go.

- Okay. So what kind
of grass do you have?

- I have Bermuda grass.

- Okay.

- Yeah, I have Bermuda grass.

My grass now is still
kind of dormant.

- Okay.

- Mine begin to come out
of dormancy right now.

- Okay.

Now do we need to be
concerned about any diseases,

you know, in our lawns?

- We could be.
It'll depend on what

kind of winter you had.

If you had a lot
of snow in there,

a lot of ice on it.

And it stayed on there
for a long period of time

and you had poor drainage.

You might see that
grass to begin to

not come out right now.

Cause it could be, it
damaged the root system.

But normally we
have brown patches,

spring dead spots.

Look over the whole
  lawn and you'll see

if your grass
  not coming out

and you have little
  spots out in there.

You probably have one of
those fungus disease on there.

- Okay.

- Could begin looking at
and see how to control that.

- Okay. And what about
soil insect pests?

- What we do have
a lot of times now,

a lot of times we start having

you might have like armyworm,

that get on there sometimes.

Sometimes you have
bugs in the grass,

grubworms under
the lawn in there.

And so you need to check that

and how you check for that.

You might want to
dig a section of that

out of there, look in
there see if you have

a lot of insects in there.

If you do then you might wanna

start a lawn treatment.

- Okay. All right.

So what about aeration?

So when do we need the aerate
our cool season grasses

and our warm season grasses?

Why do we need to
do that anyway?

- That's a good question,
we need to do that too.

Now I did mine a
couple years ago.

Aerate it.

I de-thatch it, and that
made a big difference

in that lawn grass in there.

We opened that grass up some

and we got a lot of
traffic on there.

Open up the grass and it
began to breathe better.

Water got down in there.

I saw a big difference in there.

- Okay.

- But when you want
to do that now,

when that grass begins to grow.

You know, Bermuda
  grass and zoysia grass,

you want to do it when
  that grass begin to grow.

You don't want to do it
  into the dormancy season.

'Cause you don't want to
  expose the root system

to winter weather
  all winter long.

And for your fescue lawn

that probably
  sometime in September,

you got a
  cool season grass.

Whenever you want
  to do that,

you want to do it
  in the coolest,

when that grass
  begins to grow.

So you want to do it
  when that grass begins

to grow in there.

So you don't
  want to do it

when that grass
goes into a dormancy

I want it just fresh
coming out of the dormancy.

But when they get out, you
want to aerate it then.

- Okay.

- And you will see a
big difference there,

you need to try that.

And then you got a
lot of dead grass,

a lot of thatch in there.

You get you something
  like a garden rake.

If you've got little small
  areas and rake across

and get all that dead
  grass out of there.

And then when
  I like to bag mine

the first couple times

you get all that dead
grass out of there.

- So why would we want to get
that dead grass out of there?

- It can add thatch
over a period of time.

It can begin to do that.

Then you have less water getting

down into the root system.

You have less fertilizer getting

into the root system

and you're wasting
a lot of money.

- Okay.

- Another thing
that if you need to

water that grass,
you wanna water it

early in the morning time.

A lot of times you
start watering the grass

late at night and
in the evening time,

you can start adding
disease problems

to that grass.

So you don't want to do that.

If you've got a really
good thick turf,

you can get out a lot of weeds.

It'll choke all that
out of there.

So you won't have
that problem in there.

I cut it twice a week and

when we cut it
twice a week there,

I'm not moving, but
just clip it off there.

And I leave old
clippings on the lawn

and that adds
nitrogen to your soil.

- Okay.

- Yeah and then
you don't want it

to look like hay out
there when you cut it,

you don't want just a
whole lot of hay out there.

You want to cut it the
way I cut it twice a week.

And another thing
I can cut it faster

when I cut it twice a week.

If you go a real period
of time that like,

we have a lot of rain,

I can't go out there and cut it.

Then I might go bag it then.

To keep some of
the other grass off

and I get back to cutting
it like I should have.

- So we were talking about
fertilizer earlier, right?

And we want people to
fertilize according

to the soil test.

So you get, when you
get the analysis back

how do you fertilize your lawn?

- When I fertilize
my lawn, if it says

add 50 pounds,

I go different directions.

I go half this way.

I put 25 pounds this way
  and 25 pounds other way.

I make sure I get
  a good coverage.

And another thing I
  see a lot of times

people have these
  fertilized lawn grass,

and they have a lot of
  fertilizer on the sidewalk.

You you don't want to
get on the sidewalk.

That's not going to do
any good on the sidewalk

but you want to make sure
that you get it on the lawn.

- You know, we were
talking about the

warm season grasses
Bermuda and zoysia,

how often, you know,

should we fertilize them

with the nitrogen
fertilizer though.

- One of the things
about nitrogen fertilizer

on the bag you gonna
  see three numbers.

your nitrogen, your
  phosphorus, and potassium.

The nitrogen it don't
  stay in the soil too long

grass kind of use
  that up because

it normally do two
things to the plant,

make it grow and turn it green.

- Okay.

- You know, you put that on it

about three times during
the growing season,

but your phosphorus
and potassium,

they build up in the soil.

That's why I say you
might not want to,

you might want to look
at your fertilizer

when you're putting it down,

because you might want to say

like 13-13-13.

Well, those second two numbers

you might wanna drop
those down later on

'cause they, they can
build up in the soil and

based on your soil
test, but normally

the nitrogen leaches
itself out fast,

it don't stay in there too long.

It comes, do it's job, turn
it green, and make it grow.

- And make it grow.

- But the phosphorus
and potassium

they can go for the root system.

And also, they
fight off diseases.

- Okay. All right.

So we do all those things

and we'll have nice
clean lawn right.

From the spring into the summer.

Yeah. We appreciate
that good information.

- Thank you.

[upbeat country music]

- Blight.

We say blight,
especially dealing

with tomatoes, right?

We always say blight.

- Oh yeah, got the blight.
- The blight.

- Oh, I got the blight.

What can we do about
the blight, you know?

Yeah. It's a bad thing.

It's definitely, I mean

you can just have a lot
of people say it blight.

So yeah, it's the blight.

It's a bad thing.

And it can either
be referring to

a particular disease.

- Okay.

- We have a light
blight, early blight,

on tomatoes, or it could just,

when you use the word
blight, it could refer

to actually the
injury on the leaf.

So it could be a disease,
  or the injury that is

caused by diseases
  that are blights.

What happens is it could be a
  spot that could be the injury.

It could be a lesion.

It could be anything
  or can be even death.

You know, blight very
  definitely can cause some

of the bad ones can cause
  eventually death of the plant.

So it's a bad thing, you know,

and if you've got blight,
you need to do something

to try to remedy the blight.

And as you say, fungicides are,

is the way to go, because
most of the blights

are caused by fungi.

And most of our fungicides
are only preventative.

They're not curative.

And the idea is to
get it out there

and get the foliage covered and

the blossoms and the fruit.

So it depends on
exactly which blight

we're trying to control.

But yeah, it's a bad thing.

[upbeat country music]

- All right, Celeste,
so we said that there

was going to be
some math involved.

Well, now's the
time for that math.

- Yes, we did.

- So what are you gonna show us?

- Okay.

Well, we're going to talk
about proper fertilize,

a proper fertilizer
application on our lawns.

For homeowners,
when you get your

soil sample results,
  they're usually going to be

recommending to apply a
  certain amount of pounds

of product per 1000
  square feet of lawn.

So before we get
ready to get out there

and put our fertilizer
out, we need to make sure

that our spreaders are
applying that fertilizer

at the appropriate rate.

So what we want
to do is a little

on the fly calibration.

You know, we're not going
to get real technical with it.

- On the fly.
- On the fly calibration.

So for example, say that
your application rate

is supposed to be
2 pounds of triple-15

or triple-13 per
1,000 square feet.

We are going to actually
test that theory

to make sure that your
spreader's working properly.

You want to set
your gauge on your

rotary-type spreader.

This is broadcast
spreader, it's rotary type.

So that means the fan
spins and disperses it.

That's going to give
you the best coverage.

We want to make sure
we set our setting

at the appropriate rate.

Your fertilizer bags
usually tell you

what rate to set that on.

So that takes
guesswork out of that.

Next you need to decide,

determine how wide the
width of your spread is.

And that's easy to do.

You can go out on the pavement

push a few feet
and see, you know,

measure the width of where
you've thrown your fertilizer.

We know that this spreader has

a five-foot width spread.

So we're going to push
it for approximately

a hundred feet.

One hundred times five is five
  hundred square feet, right?

So that's half of a thousand.

So our application said
  two pounds per thousand.

We've measured one
  pound of fertilizer

and we're going to push
  it across 500 square feet.

So when I get to the
end, if I still have

fertilizer left,
I pushed too fast

or my gauge isn't set properly,

and we need to open that
gate a little higher.

If you run out before
you get to the end

then you're pushing way too slow

or your door is
way too wide open

and you need to lower it, okay?

- Okay.

- So I think we're going
to do a little demo

pushing it and then we'll
  see where we end up.

- All right, Celeste,
what do you think?

- All right, well,
we got pretty close.

We don't have much
fertilizer left

in the bottom of
our hopper there.

So that means that
we got, you know

we were pretty
accurate as far as

our speed, like I said,
there's a little left,

so I may have been able
to walk a little slower.

Slow my pace down a little bit

and then we'd pretty
much be on target.

Like we said before, if
you'd had quite a bit left

you want to slow your
speed down considerably

and maybe consider
raising your gate there

that lets your fertilizer
out as you walk.

So I think that was a good,

a good example of how you can do

on the fly calibration
right out in your own yard.

- On the fly with some good
junior high math, right?

- There you go. There you go.

- All right, well let's talk

about some other applicators
we have out here.

So you want to start
with the sprayer?

- Yeah, sure we can.

Okay, lots of spray
application rates,

especially for herbicides
and insecticides especially,

are going to also give
their recommendation rates

in ounces per gallon.
- Right.

- But then they will specify

that you need to
use that one gallon

of water over a
certain amount of area.

And that's where a lot
of people get poor insect

and poor weed
control when they're

trying to apply these
because they're not

getting the appropriate amount

of solution on the
appropriate area.

So one way that
you could make sure

that you're doing that properly

before you actually mix your
herbicide or insecticide

in there is that
you could fill it up

with just water and mark off

a 10-by-10-foot area.

That's a hundred square feet

and apply, you
know, your liquid.

Or actually I
would just go ahead

and do a 10-by-100,

as long as it's just
water and cover that area.

And if you use your entire
gallon, then you know

that you are applying it
at the appropriate amount.

And if you have some
left then that means

you need to walk slower
with your applications.

So that's another quick
calibration method

for handheld, even
backpack sprayers.

And it's going to vary a little
bit, because you're always

having to pump up the pressure.

So you want to try to
maintain, you know, as

as a good even pressure
as you can while you're

doing that.

- Because of course with
these, you can build

up enough pressure before
you even get started.

Right?

- Yeah.

But I mean, it's
going to decrease

as you go down.

So you got to take
that into account also.

- Okay. All right.

Now what about a
hose end sprayer?

- Hose end sprayers are great.

It takes a lot of the
guesswork out of it.

You don't have to do
really any calibration

because it's doing it for you.

This is the simplest
kind that you can get.

If it calls for two
ounces per gallon

you put two ounces
of chemical in it.

And then you fill it up

with water to the line
that says one gallon.

You hook your hose up to it

and you start spraying.

And when it runs out of
material in your bottle,

you've sprayed two gallons.

So that's a pretty easy,
straightforward way.

There's some that have dials

on the top and you have
to set them yourself.

So that gets a
little more tricky.

- Yeah. I think
I'll stick with that one.

No math.

Right.

Now, what about a
handheld rotary sprayer?

Spreader.

- Handheld spreaders,
I think are great

for homeowners that
have really small lawns.

Or if you're needing
to do a spot spreading

for maybe you're
trying to fill in

some empty holes in
your lawn with some seed,

these are great for that,

but you can also do fertilizer

granular fertilizer out of them.

And there's really no way to

do calibrations with these.

I'd say the most important
thing to remember is

that you need to always have
a little bit of overlap.

And that way you don't end up

with bands that haven't
gotten any fertilizer.

It's really going to
show up when that grass

starts growing, you're
going to have really

dark green bands that
have grown a lot.

And then you'll be
able to see the yellow

or tints from where your
fertilizer didn't get applied.

- Okay.

And you know what,

and that also applies
with this as well.

- It does.

- So you have to do
some overlapping.

You have to make sure
you get good coverage.

- And another tip on that is

if you have a
irregularly shaped yard,

say that, you know
your lot's not a

perfect square or rectangle.

- Which mine is not.

- Hardly anyone's is.

You probably want to do
your perimeter first.

And that way you make
sure you get coverage

in those odd areas,
because we're going to

be doing our
applications mostly in

vertical, horizontal lines.

- Right. And that's
exactly what I do.

And one last thing that
I like to let people know

is, look, if that
fertilizer gets

in your driveway,
make sure you sweep it

back up into your lawn,
because you don't want

that to go down to
the water sewage systems.

- Definitely.

- I mean, there's fish
at the end of that chain.

So we definitely don't
want the fertilizer

to get down in there.

- Yeah, making sure we
get that fertilizer put on

the appropriate area.

For sure.

- All right, Celeste.

Thank you for that
demonstration.

We appreciate that.

[gentle country music]

- This is 34-0-0.

We're gonna do
some side dressing.

Okay, we want to
encourage our vegetables

to get real good, robust growth.

On the side of our
pepper plants here.

How much do I need?

I always use just
about a handful.

Really, to side dress it.

That should be good
enough once you

get that watered in.

And usually when you get
your soil analysis back

it'll tell you how much
you need to put down

in your garden
for your vegetables.

Last little bit here

and that's how you side
dress your vegetables.

[gentle country music]

All right, this is
our Q and A session.

You ready?

- Ready.

- This is a great question.

- Okay then, ready to go.

- Here's our first viewer email.

"Our yard is almost
  entirely zoysia

"with a bit of
  Bermuda in spots.

"This year, we have
  a grass we've

"never seen before,
  and it is

"choking out our zoysia.

"It is almost
  impossible to pull it

"up by the roots and it
  spreads like Bermuda.

"What is it, and how
  do I get rid of it?

Weed killer
  did nothing to it."

And this is Greg
  in Midtown Memphis.

Okay. So he wants to
  know what is this?

Because it's choking
out his zoysia.

- Looks like Bermuda
grass got in there.

Bermuda grass got
into his zoysia grass.

I had that same problem

in our church plot in there
and getting in there.

It's hard to get
it out of there.

If you use a herbicide in there,

you might use
something like Ornamec

and that'll try
to kill it there.

But one thing, when
you use a herbicide is,

you need to read the label.

- That's right.

- You need to read
the label on there

and it'll tell you how
to use it on there.

And then you might
need to do it more than

one time on there.

So they don't have,
it's gonna take

some time to get up.

And when you read
the label on that

you need to make
sure that you don't

use it at the right temperature.

'Cause if you start
spreading it wrong

it can damage
your zoysia grass,

so you wanna make sure
that you use it right.

And read the label.

That one thing we say,
you got to read that label

on there and go by the label.

If it tell you you need
to put so much in there,

you need to do that.

But yeah, it will be hard
to get out there though.

He got a tough job.

- Yeah, it's going to definitely

be multiple applications,
Ornamec is something,

the homeowner can
  get Grass B Gon.

Contains the same active
  ingredient fluazifop.

Yeah. So do read and
  follow the label on that.

Yeah, for sure, but like
we always tell people,

cultural practices.

Make sure you're going
to get a thick stand

of zoysia, because
zoysia is thick enough to

it should be able to
crowd out that Bermuda.

- That really thick grass,

and I like zoysia grass too.

It's a really thick
grass and it should crowd

the Bermuda grass out of there.

Yeah. But it'll take some time
for him to do that now.

But he got to read the label and

go by the label, if not,
it's not going to work.

- Right. Right.

And like you mentioned
before, it'll tell you

on the label about
the temperature.

So you don't want to
spray when it's too hot

because it can damage it.

The zoysia as well.
- That zoysia as well.

You don't want that
to happen in there.

- So definitely read and
follow the label on that.

Just don't take our word for it.

- And when I buy any
kind of chemical, I like

I like to take the
label off there.

And put it in a plastic bag

and put it in a plastic
bag or something.

Cause if you keep, you
keep messing with it

on that thing,
your hands sweating

sometimes you sweat it out and

you can't be able to read it.

- That's a good point.

- Yeah. And you take it off and

put your little plastic bag

and may put that plastic bag and

tape it on the side
of the container.

Then you take it out there

and read it when you need
it and keep it covered.

And that's a good thing to do.

And you need to
probably to do that.

When you do that,
when you buy any kind

of label on the container,

try to take it out there and

put a little plastic
bag, then put back.

Then get you some tape
and put back on there.

- Oh, there you go.

Yeah, preserve it.
- Preserve it.

Yeah, because you don't,
you're sweating out there,

you're cutting, you're sweating,
you're trying to get the label

later on and the ink
will start fading off,

and you won't be
able to read it.

Also, there's a number on there.

You get, if you have
a problem with it,

and know you can call
that number on that.

On that label, so make
sure you know that.

- Right. They do have
emergency numbers.

Everything you need to
know is on the label.

So there you go, Greg.

Hope that helps you out
and good luck with that.

All right.

Here's our next viewer email.

"We need to get grass
  in our front yard

"in an area located
  under a large oak tree.

"The area is
  in shade all day.

"What is the best kind of
  sod to have installed?

And when is the
  best time to lay it?"

This is Joe in
  Bartlett, Tennessee.

So as you can see there,
  it's pretty large oak tree.

Lots of shade.

Are they going to
have any success

with grasses under
that large oak tree?

- You can.

And then looking at that,
it looked like the soil

is kind of compact
under there too.

I saw the soil's
compact in there,

and he has two choices.

He can just look at the sun.

If he's getting about,

at least four hours of sun,

he might be to go
  with a zoysia grass.

Like we have the
  Palisades or Royal.

But if not, he's gonna have
  to go with a fescue lawn.

- Cause again, shade all day

unless you limb up
  some of those branches.

- He probably needs
to go with a fescue

and the best time is later,
that's in the fall of the year.

As you can find
this, you can start

in the fall of the year
and you can find some seed.

You can seed it in
the fall of the year.

And if you want to sod
it during the summertime

you might to keep
watering a lot.

You gotta keep a
lot of water on it.

- It is a cool season grass.

- And it might not do
it well with the sun

hitting so hard in there so

I'd probably wait until
the fall to do that.

And for the sod, I'd seed it.

- Okay.

So again, your suggestion
would be the fescue

talking about shade.

Now if you limb, you know,
some of those branches

up and get enough sun down
there for maybe the, for the

- Yeah go with
zoysia, something like

Palisades or Royal zoysia,
after I look at those

two in there and see
how they work in there.

But the fescue is probably
your best option.

- Okay.

And something else we
should mention as well.

Get the soil tests.

- Get the soil tests,
that'll tell you what you

before you're doing that,

you don't want to
waste your money

putting your sod, 'cause
sod is not cheap now.

Sod is not cheap stuff in there.

But like, looking at that tree,

the soil is real compact.

They need to aerate
that real good,

and then lay that sod in there.

- Okay.

Would they need to
add any type of,

you know, soil or
compost, anything on top?

- I wouldn't do
anything to that.

You might want to get,
if it's real bad,

you might wanna
get your garden tools

just run across there and
try to till it up a little bit

for that grass to
come into good contact

with some soil.

So he might want to do that.

He don't have much
time, but he can,

he can make it work.

Now if you seed it,
sometimes you might

want to overseed it about,
at least about three years,

to get a good stand over
seed and then you'll

get a good stand.

- Fill in the gaps.

- Fill in the gap
gaps in there, yeah.

- Okay. All right.

So there you have it, Joe.

Yeah. We were thinking
you might be successful

with that.

- I think so.

- Get that soil test

- Take some time, get
a little work in there

he can do that in
there, so yeah.

- Big tree.

All right.

So here's our next viewer email.

"We have nimblewill
  growing in our lawn.

What can kill it without
  harming our tall fescue?"

And this is David in
  Florence, Kentucky.

All right.

So nimblewill, we
know, can be a problem.

It resembles Bermuda.

- Looks like
  Bermuda grass, yeah.

Yeah. Almost looks
  like it, yeah.

- Almost looks like it,
  poor man's Bermuda.

Is what I call it.

- Like the first
  thing you said though,

really good turf,
  thick turf in there now.

You might can use some
chemicals in there now

you're going to try
chemical herbicide

in there to kill, I don't know.

- Yeah. My, my
thing is, you know

I always like to start with
cultural practices first.

So nimblewill grows
by seed and by stolens.

Okay?

So it's going to try to
fill in space, right?

So the thing with
that is you need

a good dense stand of grass.

So make sure you
have the appropriate

grass species for that area.

Mow it the correct height.

- Correct height.

- Fertilize, according
to your soil test.

Okay. Now, if you
want to remove it,

it's a couple of
different things here.

You can rake it out.

You can either rake it
out, or you can dig it out.

Okay. Now we're talking
about chemicals.

There's a couple of
different routes we can go.

Pre-emerge, okay,
  dithiopyr, is something

you can use.

Pendimethalin,
  as a pre-emerge,

but since it's already there,

we're going to be
  looking at a post-emerge.

Right. And we're talking about

a post-emerge in tall fescue.

So the only thing
that's labeled that

the homeowner could
  get is called Tenacity.

Right? So it's Tenacity.

Read and follow the label.

So if you're going to go
  the post-emerge route,

there's Tenacity.

But I want you to
read and follow

- You gotta follow the
label directions on that.

Because that's the law.

That they stand behind
that law and everything.

So you need to do that.

- And again, it will remove
nimblewill from fescue.

But you just gotta
make sure that you

read the label on that.

Yeah. So they have it, David.

Thank you for the question.

That was fun.
- That is fun, yeah.

- Thank you much.
- I enjoyed that.

- Remember, we'd love
  to hear from you.

Send us an email or letter.

The email address is
  familyplot@wkno.org.

And the mailing
  address is Family Plot

7151 Cherry Farms Road
  Cordova, Tennessee 38016.

Or you can go online to
  familyplotgarden.com.

That's all we have
time for today.

Thanks for joining us.

If you want more
information on anything

we talked about today,

head on over to
familyplotgarden.com.

We have linked
Extension publications

you can read to find out more.

Be sure to join us next week

for the Family Plot:
Gardening in the Mid-South.

Be safe.

[upbeat country music]

[acoustic guitar chords]