- Hi, thanks for joining us
for The Family Plot:
Gardening in the Mid-South.
I'm Chris Cooper.
Spring is here and the
lawn is greening up.
Today, we're talking
about what to do to get it
ready for
the growing season.
Also, we'll show how to
calibrate your spreaders.
That's just ahead
on The Family Plot:
Gardening in the Mid-South.
- (female announcer)
Production funding
for The Family Plot:
Gardening in the Mid-South
is provided by
the WKNO Production Fund,
the WKNO Endowment Fund,
and by viewers like you.
Thank you.
[upbeat country music]
- Welcome to The Family Plot.
I'm Chris Cooper.
Joining me today is
Mr. Booker T. Leigh.
Booker is a UT Extension
agent right here
in Shelby County,
and Celeste Scott
will be joining me later.
All right, Booker, so how
do we prepare the lawns
for the spring into the summer?
- Okay. At that time
of the year again
and I'm so happy to start.
I like to have that
pretty green grass.
I know everybody else like
to have that pretty green grass
or whatever grass that you have
in your landscape.
And this is a good time
to start doing things
and getting ready for that.
The first thing I start
out doing would be
getting me a soil test.
If I read that and
I had a soil test,
and then it's going to
tell you what you need to
add to your soil.
Whether you need to
add lime or what kind
of fertilizer I
need to add to it
because the soil pH is
very important in any kind
when you're trying to
grow your lawn grass
'cause for most lawn grass,
you need a soil pH
between 6.0 and 6.5.
And the only way to tell
that is by a soil test.
And reading everything
about that soil test,
your soil pH is very important.
- Very important.
- Very important.
If the pH is off,
if it's too high,
all the other nutrients
you put down on your lawn
is not going to be
used up by the plant.
You want to make sure
that it's used up
by the plant, and then
when you put it on there
So if not, then they're
not going to work right.
You just add fertilizer in there
and it's not doing any good.
So if you have somebody
to take care of your lawn
you need to ask them to
do a soil test sometime,
you know just do a soil test
and to make sure that you
have it, that's right.
- You're exactly right.
Your soil pH is all about
nutrient availability.
So you definitely want
to get that right.
- Another thing I
do it every year.
I like to sharpen
my lawn mower blade
before you get
started sharpening
make sure you have a
sharp blade, right?
'Cause you don't want to
start cutting the grass
with a dull blade.
When you have a dull blade,
it's not going to cut the grass.
It's just going to beat it down.
And so I sharpen mine twice
during the growing season.
Yeah. And they easy to take off.
One thing you might want to do
you might want to take the plug,
remove the spark plug wire.
You don't want people
in there working
with the spark
plug wire on there.
You want to make sure
it don't start up
or something cause you
could have an accident
and you don't want to do that.
When you take it off, then
make sure you know how
to put it back on
there because if not
and you put it back
on there wrong,
it's not going to do
a good job cutting.
When I first took mine
out the first time
I had to go back to a store
and look at the lawn mower to
see how that blade go on there.
So from now on I mark
mine when you take it
off there to make
sure you put it back
on there right.
- Right
- That's a good
thing to do in there,
but you need that sharp blade.
And that thing when
you start cutting
your lawn grass this
year if you haven't
been doing that, try to cut
in different directions.
You know, I try to do
it all the time now.
I didn't start doing it.
Then you will see that
grass begin to grow better.
You want to cut it
one way this time
then another way next time
and get that grass to stand up.
- Right.
- Because if you cut it
the same way all the time,
it's gonna be laying down.
So you need to make
sure you cut that grass
in a different direction
so it begins to
stand up in there.
- And you want it to stand up
so you can get water
and the fertilizer
- You want to get down
to where you're at.
Then another thing,
maintain the correct height.
Now I cut mine low twice.
If you haven't
made a cut already
on that first
couple cuttings,
I like to cut mine low.
I like to bag that grass
and get all that dead
grass out of there.
- Okay.
- Then I started
working more to the
correct height and cut
for during the summertime.
And you should have
that pretty grass
or something when you start
doing that and stuff in there.
So the other thing
you want to do
to your lawnmower in
there, check it out,
make sure you're ready to go.
- Okay. So what kind
of grass do you have?
- I have Bermuda grass.
- Okay.
- Yeah, I have Bermuda grass.
My grass now is still
kind of dormant.
- Okay.
- Mine begin to come out
of dormancy right now.
- Okay.
Now do we need to be
concerned about any diseases,
you know, in our lawns?
- We could be.
It'll depend on what
kind of winter you had.
If you had a lot
of snow in there,
a lot of ice on it.
And it stayed on there
for a long period of time
and you had poor drainage.
You might see that
grass to begin to
not come out right now.
Cause it could be, it
damaged the root system.
But normally we
have brown patches,
spring dead spots.
Look over the whole
lawn and you'll see
if your grass
not coming out
and you have little
spots out in there.
You probably have one of
those fungus disease on there.
- Okay.
- Could begin looking at
and see how to control that.
- Okay. And what about
soil insect pests?
- What we do have
a lot of times now,
a lot of times we start having
you might have like armyworm,
that get on there sometimes.
Sometimes you have
bugs in the grass,
grubworms under
the lawn in there.
And so you need to check that
and how you check for that.
You might want to
dig a section of that
out of there, look in
there see if you have
a lot of insects in there.
If you do then you might wanna
start a lawn treatment.
- Okay. All right.
So what about aeration?
So when do we need the aerate
our cool season grasses
and our warm season grasses?
Why do we need to
do that anyway?
- That's a good question,
we need to do that too.
Now I did mine a
couple years ago.
Aerate it.
I de-thatch it, and that
made a big difference
in that lawn grass in there.
We opened that grass up some
and we got a lot of
traffic on there.
Open up the grass and it
began to breathe better.
Water got down in there.
I saw a big difference in there.
- Okay.
- But when you want
to do that now,
when that grass begins to grow.
You know, Bermuda
grass and zoysia grass,
you want to do it when
that grass begin to grow.
You don't want to do it
into the dormancy season.
'Cause you don't want to
expose the root system
to winter weather
all winter long.
And for your fescue lawn
that probably
sometime in September,
you got a
cool season grass.
Whenever you want
to do that,
you want to do it
in the coolest,
when that grass
begins to grow.
So you want to do it
when that grass begins
to grow in there.
So you don't
want to do it
when that grass
goes into a dormancy
I want it just fresh
coming out of the dormancy.
But when they get out, you
want to aerate it then.
- Okay.
- And you will see a
big difference there,
you need to try that.
And then you got a
lot of dead grass,
a lot of thatch in there.
You get you something
like a garden rake.
If you've got little small
areas and rake across
and get all that dead
grass out of there.
And then when
I like to bag mine
the first couple times
you get all that dead
grass out of there.
- So why would we want to get
that dead grass out of there?
- It can add thatch
over a period of time.
It can begin to do that.
Then you have less water getting
down into the root system.
You have less fertilizer getting
into the root system
and you're wasting
a lot of money.
- Okay.
- Another thing
that if you need to
water that grass,
you wanna water it
early in the morning time.
A lot of times you
start watering the grass
late at night and
in the evening time,
you can start adding
disease problems
to that grass.
So you don't want to do that.
If you've got a really
good thick turf,
you can get out a lot of weeds.
It'll choke all that
out of there.
So you won't have
that problem in there.
I cut it twice a week and
when we cut it
twice a week there,
I'm not moving, but
just clip it off there.
And I leave old
clippings on the lawn
and that adds
nitrogen to your soil.
- Okay.
- Yeah and then
you don't want it
to look like hay out
there when you cut it,
you don't want just a
whole lot of hay out there.
You want to cut it the
way I cut it twice a week.
And another thing
I can cut it faster
when I cut it twice a week.
If you go a real period
of time that like,
we have a lot of rain,
I can't go out there and cut it.
Then I might go bag it then.
To keep some of
the other grass off
and I get back to cutting
it like I should have.
- So we were talking about
fertilizer earlier, right?
And we want people to
fertilize according
to the soil test.
So you get, when you
get the analysis back
how do you fertilize your lawn?
- When I fertilize
my lawn, if it says
add 50 pounds,
I go different directions.
I go half this way.
I put 25 pounds this way
and 25 pounds other way.
I make sure I get
a good coverage.
And another thing I
see a lot of times
people have these
fertilized lawn grass,
and they have a lot of
fertilizer on the sidewalk.
You you don't want to
get on the sidewalk.
That's not going to do
any good on the sidewalk
but you want to make sure
that you get it on the lawn.
- You know, we were
talking about the
warm season grasses
Bermuda and zoysia,
how often, you know,
should we fertilize them
with the nitrogen
fertilizer though.
- One of the things
about nitrogen fertilizer
on the bag you gonna
see three numbers.
your nitrogen, your
phosphorus, and potassium.
The nitrogen it don't
stay in the soil too long
grass kind of use
that up because
it normally do two
things to the plant,
make it grow and turn it green.
- Okay.
- You know, you put that on it
about three times during
the growing season,
but your phosphorus
and potassium,
they build up in the soil.
That's why I say you
might not want to,
you might want to look
at your fertilizer
when you're putting it down,
because you might want to say
like 13-13-13.
Well, those second two numbers
you might wanna drop
those down later on
'cause they, they can
build up in the soil and
based on your soil
test, but normally
the nitrogen leaches
itself out fast,
it don't stay in there too long.
It comes, do it's job, turn
it green, and make it grow.
- And make it grow.
- But the phosphorus
and potassium
they can go for the root system.
And also, they
fight off diseases.
- Okay. All right.
So we do all those things
and we'll have nice
clean lawn right.
From the spring into the summer.
Yeah. We appreciate
that good information.
- Thank you.
[upbeat country music]
- Blight.
We say blight,
especially dealing
with tomatoes, right?
We always say blight.
- Oh yeah, got the blight.
- The blight.
- Oh, I got the blight.
What can we do about
the blight, you know?
Yeah. It's a bad thing.
It's definitely, I mean
you can just have a lot
of people say it blight.
So yeah, it's the blight.
It's a bad thing.
And it can either
be referring to
a particular disease.
- Okay.
- We have a light
blight, early blight,
on tomatoes, or it could just,
when you use the word
blight, it could refer
to actually the
injury on the leaf.
So it could be a disease,
or the injury that is
caused by diseases
that are blights.
What happens is it could be a
spot that could be the injury.
It could be a lesion.
It could be anything
or can be even death.
You know, blight very
definitely can cause some
of the bad ones can cause
eventually death of the plant.
So it's a bad thing, you know,
and if you've got blight,
you need to do something
to try to remedy the blight.
And as you say, fungicides are,
is the way to go, because
most of the blights
are caused by fungi.
And most of our fungicides
are only preventative.
They're not curative.
And the idea is to
get it out there
and get the foliage covered and
the blossoms and the fruit.
So it depends on
exactly which blight
we're trying to control.
But yeah, it's a bad thing.
[upbeat country music]
- All right, Celeste,
so we said that there
was going to be
some math involved.
Well, now's the
time for that math.
- Yes, we did.
- So what are you gonna show us?
- Okay.
Well, we're going to talk
about proper fertilize,
a proper fertilizer
application on our lawns.
For homeowners,
when you get your
soil sample results,
they're usually going to be
recommending to apply a
certain amount of pounds
of product per 1000
square feet of lawn.
So before we get
ready to get out there
and put our fertilizer
out, we need to make sure
that our spreaders are
applying that fertilizer
at the appropriate rate.
So what we want
to do is a little
on the fly calibration.
You know, we're not going
to get real technical with it.
- On the fly.
- On the fly calibration.
So for example, say that
your application rate
is supposed to be
2 pounds of triple-15
or triple-13 per
1,000 square feet.
We are going to actually
test that theory
to make sure that your
spreader's working properly.
You want to set
your gauge on your
rotary-type spreader.
This is broadcast
spreader, it's rotary type.
So that means the fan
spins and disperses it.
That's going to give
you the best coverage.
We want to make sure
we set our setting
at the appropriate rate.
Your fertilizer bags
usually tell you
what rate to set that on.
So that takes
guesswork out of that.
Next you need to decide,
determine how wide the
width of your spread is.
And that's easy to do.
You can go out on the pavement
push a few feet
and see, you know,
measure the width of where
you've thrown your fertilizer.
We know that this spreader has
a five-foot width spread.
So we're going to push
it for approximately
a hundred feet.
One hundred times five is five
hundred square feet, right?
So that's half of a thousand.
So our application said
two pounds per thousand.
We've measured one
pound of fertilizer
and we're going to push
it across 500 square feet.
So when I get to the
end, if I still have
fertilizer left,
I pushed too fast
or my gauge isn't set properly,
and we need to open that
gate a little higher.
If you run out before
you get to the end
then you're pushing way too slow
or your door is
way too wide open
and you need to lower it, okay?
- Okay.
- So I think we're going
to do a little demo
pushing it and then we'll
see where we end up.
- All right, Celeste,
what do you think?
- All right, well,
we got pretty close.
We don't have much
fertilizer left
in the bottom of
our hopper there.
So that means that
we got, you know
we were pretty
accurate as far as
our speed, like I said,
there's a little left,
so I may have been able
to walk a little slower.
Slow my pace down a little bit
and then we'd pretty
much be on target.
Like we said before, if
you'd had quite a bit left
you want to slow your
speed down considerably
and maybe consider
raising your gate there
that lets your fertilizer
out as you walk.
So I think that was a good,
a good example of how you can do
on the fly calibration
right out in your own yard.
- On the fly with some good
junior high math, right?
- There you go. There you go.
- All right, well let's talk
about some other applicators
we have out here.
So you want to start
with the sprayer?
- Yeah, sure we can.
Okay, lots of spray
application rates,
especially for herbicides
and insecticides especially,
are going to also give
their recommendation rates
in ounces per gallon.
- Right.
- But then they will specify
that you need to
use that one gallon
of water over a
certain amount of area.
And that's where a lot
of people get poor insect
and poor weed
control when they're
trying to apply these
because they're not
getting the appropriate amount
of solution on the
appropriate area.
So one way that
you could make sure
that you're doing that properly
before you actually mix your
herbicide or insecticide
in there is that
you could fill it up
with just water and mark off
a 10-by-10-foot area.
That's a hundred square feet
and apply, you
know, your liquid.
Or actually I
would just go ahead
and do a 10-by-100,
as long as it's just
water and cover that area.
And if you use your entire
gallon, then you know
that you are applying it
at the appropriate amount.
And if you have some
left then that means
you need to walk slower
with your applications.
So that's another quick
calibration method
for handheld, even
backpack sprayers.
And it's going to vary a little
bit, because you're always
having to pump up the pressure.
So you want to try to
maintain, you know, as
as a good even pressure
as you can while you're
doing that.
- Because of course with
these, you can build
up enough pressure before
you even get started.
Right?
- Yeah.
But I mean, it's
going to decrease
as you go down.
So you got to take
that into account also.
- Okay. All right.
Now what about a
hose end sprayer?
- Hose end sprayers are great.
It takes a lot of the
guesswork out of it.
You don't have to do
really any calibration
because it's doing it for you.
This is the simplest
kind that you can get.
If it calls for two
ounces per gallon
you put two ounces
of chemical in it.
And then you fill it up
with water to the line
that says one gallon.
You hook your hose up to it
and you start spraying.
And when it runs out of
material in your bottle,
you've sprayed two gallons.
So that's a pretty easy,
straightforward way.
There's some that have dials
on the top and you have
to set them yourself.
So that gets a
little more tricky.
- Yeah. I think
I'll stick with that one.
No math.
Right.
Now, what about a
handheld rotary sprayer?
Spreader.
- Handheld spreaders,
I think are great
for homeowners that
have really small lawns.
Or if you're needing
to do a spot spreading
for maybe you're
trying to fill in
some empty holes in
your lawn with some seed,
these are great for that,
but you can also do fertilizer
granular fertilizer out of them.
And there's really no way to
do calibrations with these.
I'd say the most important
thing to remember is
that you need to always have
a little bit of overlap.
And that way you don't end up
with bands that haven't
gotten any fertilizer.
It's really going to
show up when that grass
starts growing, you're
going to have really
dark green bands that
have grown a lot.
And then you'll be
able to see the yellow
or tints from where your
fertilizer didn't get applied.
- Okay.
And you know what,
and that also applies
with this as well.
- It does.
- So you have to do
some overlapping.
You have to make sure
you get good coverage.
- And another tip on that is
if you have a
irregularly shaped yard,
say that, you know
your lot's not a
perfect square or rectangle.
- Which mine is not.
- Hardly anyone's is.
You probably want to do
your perimeter first.
And that way you make
sure you get coverage
in those odd areas,
because we're going to
be doing our
applications mostly in
vertical, horizontal lines.
- Right. And that's
exactly what I do.
And one last thing that
I like to let people know
is, look, if that
fertilizer gets
in your driveway,
make sure you sweep it
back up into your lawn,
because you don't want
that to go down to
the water sewage systems.
- Definitely.
- I mean, there's fish
at the end of that chain.
So we definitely don't
want the fertilizer
to get down in there.
- Yeah, making sure we
get that fertilizer put on
the appropriate area.
For sure.
- All right, Celeste.
Thank you for that
demonstration.
We appreciate that.
[gentle country music]
- This is 34-0-0.
We're gonna do
some side dressing.
Okay, we want to
encourage our vegetables
to get real good, robust growth.
On the side of our
pepper plants here.
How much do I need?
I always use just
about a handful.
Really, to side dress it.
That should be good
enough once you
get that watered in.
And usually when you get
your soil analysis back
it'll tell you how much
you need to put down
in your garden
for your vegetables.
Last little bit here
and that's how you side
dress your vegetables.
[gentle country music]
All right, this is
our Q and A session.
You ready?
- Ready.
- This is a great question.
- Okay then, ready to go.
- Here's our first viewer email.
"Our yard is almost
entirely zoysia
"with a bit of
Bermuda in spots.
"This year, we have
a grass we've
"never seen before,
and it is
"choking out our zoysia.
"It is almost
impossible to pull it
"up by the roots and it
spreads like Bermuda.
"What is it, and how
do I get rid of it?
Weed killer
did nothing to it."
And this is Greg
in Midtown Memphis.
Okay. So he wants to
know what is this?
Because it's choking
out his zoysia.
- Looks like Bermuda
grass got in there.
Bermuda grass got
into his zoysia grass.
I had that same problem
in our church plot in there
and getting in there.
It's hard to get
it out of there.
If you use a herbicide in there,
you might use
something like Ornamec
and that'll try
to kill it there.
But one thing, when
you use a herbicide is,
you need to read the label.
- That's right.
- You need to read
the label on there
and it'll tell you how
to use it on there.
And then you might
need to do it more than
one time on there.
So they don't have,
it's gonna take
some time to get up.
And when you read
the label on that
you need to make
sure that you don't
use it at the right temperature.
'Cause if you start
spreading it wrong
it can damage
your zoysia grass,
so you wanna make sure
that you use it right.
And read the label.
That one thing we say,
you got to read that label
on there and go by the label.
If it tell you you need
to put so much in there,
you need to do that.
But yeah, it will be hard
to get out there though.
He got a tough job.
- Yeah, it's going to definitely
be multiple applications,
Ornamec is something,
the homeowner can
get Grass B Gon.
Contains the same active
ingredient fluazifop.
Yeah. So do read and
follow the label on that.
Yeah, for sure, but like
we always tell people,
cultural practices.
Make sure you're going
to get a thick stand
of zoysia, because
zoysia is thick enough to
it should be able to
crowd out that Bermuda.
- That really thick grass,
and I like zoysia grass too.
It's a really thick
grass and it should crowd
the Bermuda grass out of there.
Yeah. But it'll take some time
for him to do that now.
But he got to read the label and
go by the label, if not,
it's not going to work.
- Right. Right.
And like you mentioned
before, it'll tell you
on the label about
the temperature.
So you don't want to
spray when it's too hot
because it can damage it.
The zoysia as well.
- That zoysia as well.
You don't want that
to happen in there.
- So definitely read and
follow the label on that.
Just don't take our word for it.
- And when I buy any
kind of chemical, I like
I like to take the
label off there.
And put it in a plastic bag
and put it in a plastic
bag or something.
Cause if you keep, you
keep messing with it
on that thing,
your hands sweating
sometimes you sweat it out and
you can't be able to read it.
- That's a good point.
- Yeah. And you take it off and
put your little plastic bag
and may put that plastic bag and
tape it on the side
of the container.
Then you take it out there
and read it when you need
it and keep it covered.
And that's a good thing to do.
And you need to
probably to do that.
When you do that,
when you buy any kind
of label on the container,
try to take it out there and
put a little plastic
bag, then put back.
Then get you some tape
and put back on there.
- Oh, there you go.
Yeah, preserve it.
- Preserve it.
Yeah, because you don't,
you're sweating out there,
you're cutting, you're sweating,
you're trying to get the label
later on and the ink
will start fading off,
and you won't be
able to read it.
Also, there's a number on there.
You get, if you have
a problem with it,
and know you can call
that number on that.
On that label, so make
sure you know that.
- Right. They do have
emergency numbers.
Everything you need to
know is on the label.
So there you go, Greg.
Hope that helps you out
and good luck with that.
All right.
Here's our next viewer email.
"We need to get grass
in our front yard
"in an area located
under a large oak tree.
"The area is
in shade all day.
"What is the best kind of
sod to have installed?
And when is the
best time to lay it?"
This is Joe in
Bartlett, Tennessee.
So as you can see there,
it's pretty large oak tree.
Lots of shade.
Are they going to
have any success
with grasses under
that large oak tree?
- You can.
And then looking at that,
it looked like the soil
is kind of compact
under there too.
I saw the soil's
compact in there,
and he has two choices.
He can just look at the sun.
If he's getting about,
at least four hours of sun,
he might be to go
with a zoysia grass.
Like we have the
Palisades or Royal.
But if not, he's gonna have
to go with a fescue lawn.
- Cause again, shade all day
unless you limb up
some of those branches.
- He probably needs
to go with a fescue
and the best time is later,
that's in the fall of the year.
As you can find
this, you can start
in the fall of the year
and you can find some seed.
You can seed it in
the fall of the year.
And if you want to sod
it during the summertime
you might to keep
watering a lot.
You gotta keep a
lot of water on it.
- It is a cool season grass.
- And it might not do
it well with the sun
hitting so hard in there so
I'd probably wait until
the fall to do that.
And for the sod, I'd seed it.
- Okay.
So again, your suggestion
would be the fescue
talking about shade.
Now if you limb, you know,
some of those branches
up and get enough sun down
there for maybe the, for the
- Yeah go with
zoysia, something like
Palisades or Royal zoysia,
after I look at those
two in there and see
how they work in there.
But the fescue is probably
your best option.
- Okay.
And something else we
should mention as well.
Get the soil tests.
- Get the soil tests,
that'll tell you what you
before you're doing that,
you don't want to
waste your money
putting your sod, 'cause
sod is not cheap now.
Sod is not cheap stuff in there.
But like, looking at that tree,
the soil is real compact.
They need to aerate
that real good,
and then lay that sod in there.
- Okay.
Would they need to
add any type of,
you know, soil or
compost, anything on top?
- I wouldn't do
anything to that.
You might want to get,
if it's real bad,
you might wanna
get your garden tools
just run across there and
try to till it up a little bit
for that grass to
come into good contact
with some soil.
So he might want to do that.
He don't have much
time, but he can,
he can make it work.
Now if you seed it,
sometimes you might
want to overseed it about,
at least about three years,
to get a good stand over
seed and then you'll
get a good stand.
- Fill in the gaps.
- Fill in the gap
gaps in there, yeah.
- Okay. All right.
So there you have it, Joe.
Yeah. We were thinking
you might be successful
with that.
- I think so.
- Get that soil test
- Take some time, get
a little work in there
he can do that in
there, so yeah.
- Big tree.
All right.
So here's our next viewer email.
"We have nimblewill
growing in our lawn.
What can kill it without
harming our tall fescue?"
And this is David in
Florence, Kentucky.
All right.
So nimblewill, we
know, can be a problem.
It resembles Bermuda.
- Looks like
Bermuda grass, yeah.
Yeah. Almost looks
like it, yeah.
- Almost looks like it,
poor man's Bermuda.
Is what I call it.
- Like the first
thing you said though,
really good turf,
thick turf in there now.
You might can use some
chemicals in there now
you're going to try
chemical herbicide
in there to kill, I don't know.
- Yeah. My, my
thing is, you know
I always like to start with
cultural practices first.
So nimblewill grows
by seed and by stolens.
Okay?
So it's going to try to
fill in space, right?
So the thing with
that is you need
a good dense stand of grass.
So make sure you
have the appropriate
grass species for that area.
Mow it the correct height.
- Correct height.
- Fertilize, according
to your soil test.
Okay. Now, if you
want to remove it,
it's a couple of
different things here.
You can rake it out.
You can either rake it
out, or you can dig it out.
Okay. Now we're talking
about chemicals.
There's a couple of
different routes we can go.
Pre-emerge, okay,
dithiopyr, is something
you can use.
Pendimethalin,
as a pre-emerge,
but since it's already there,
we're going to be
looking at a post-emerge.
Right. And we're talking about
a post-emerge in tall fescue.
So the only thing
that's labeled that
the homeowner could
get is called Tenacity.
Right? So it's Tenacity.
Read and follow the label.
So if you're going to go
the post-emerge route,
there's Tenacity.
But I want you to
read and follow
- You gotta follow the
label directions on that.
Because that's the law.
That they stand behind
that law and everything.
So you need to do that.
- And again, it will remove
nimblewill from fescue.
But you just gotta
make sure that you
read the label on that.
Yeah. So they have it, David.
Thank you for the question.
That was fun.
- That is fun, yeah.
- Thank you much.
- I enjoyed that.
- Remember, we'd love
to hear from you.
Send us an email or letter.
The email address is
familyplot@wkno.org.
And the mailing
address is Family Plot
7151 Cherry Farms Road
Cordova, Tennessee 38016.
Or you can go online to
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That's all we have
time for today.
Thanks for joining us.
If you want more
information on anything
we talked about today,
head on over to
familyplotgarden.com.
We have linked
Extension publications
you can read to find out more.
Be sure to join us next week
for the Family Plot:
Gardening in the Mid-South.
Be safe.
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