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>>Our guest today says 
the language of food

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and farming is like no other.

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With almost a decade of 
experience raising goats

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and making cheese,

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Gail Hobbs- Page is 
passionate about a livelihood

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she describes as art, 
craft, animal and science.

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Join us today as we 
visit Caromont Farm.

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Come on!

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So Gail, what inspired 
you to start raising goats

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and making cheese?

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>>I was a farm kid 
from North Carolina.

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I had goats growing up, 
had a great career in food

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and I always told myself

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if I ever got to a place 
in my life when I was ready

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I would have goats again.

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But ah...

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>>And here you go.

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>>And here I am.

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>>So, how may goats do you have?

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>>I have a milking 
herd of ninety.

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>>Ninety.

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>>Yes. Started out with thirteen

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so you see how things happen.

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>>Oh my gosh.

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Okay, so for the milking 
process, how does that work?

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How many goats are 
milked at a time?

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>>Well we milk at 
six in the morning

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and at six in the evening

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and we milk twelve at a time

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and we have what they 
call a milk pipeline

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so everything's 
done mechanically.

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>>And, it's important to keep 
that area clean and calm,

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explain why.

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>>That's the biggest 
thing that we've learned

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is keeping everything calm

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because we want as much 
milk as they'll give.

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>>Right.

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>>And so, if 
they're stressed out

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and if they're worried 
about their babies

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or any of that stuff then 
they won't give it to us.

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>>Right.

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>>And so we just try to keep 
it very, very stress- less.

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>>So how long is a goat 
able to produce milk

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for making cheese?

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>>We like to get six 
or seven lactations;

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that's the period of time 
that they actually give milk.

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>>Is that seasons? Years?

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>>Seven seasons.

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>>Seven seasons.

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>>With that said I have some

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that are on their twelfth, 
thirteenth lactation.

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So...

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>>That's fantastic.

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>>But you always 
want to have a clean,

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a new source of genetics, and 
younger does coming online.

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>>So what happens 
with the goats though

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once they can't make cheese?

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>>Oh, we retire them.

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they get to watch 
their stories and eat.

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>>Well and these guys, 
these girls are so friendly.

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So, why are they so friendly?

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>>Well we bottle raise all 
of our goats meaning that...

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>>(Terri laughs) Hello.

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>>Hello. I have to 
be part of this.

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>>We bottle raise them.

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We take them in 24 hours,

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we take them and feed 
them cows milk actually.

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>>Oh wow. Oh wow.

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Because you have to do that

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because otherwise they 
won't produce... anymore,

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the milk will be gone.

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>>The babies drink all the milk

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and then we won't 
have any for cheese.

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In the early days we 
used to do all of this

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with five- gallon buckets

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and we would have to schlep 
them in and pour them over

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and so you can see 
this is a lot quicker.

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>>Okay, Gail, before we 
talk about making cheese,

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let's talk about our super- 
fashionable outfits here

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and the importance of them.

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>>This is a controlled room,

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everything has to be controlled 
that it comes to this room.

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This is the most important 
room in the plant.

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>>Okay, so now, let's 
talk about cheese making

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from start to finish.

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>>Okay, well we go by this.

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>>And that is a...?

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>>This is our brain This 
is our brain on cheese.

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>>(Terri laughs). That's great.

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>>It has all the 
data that we need.

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It's organized in a way 
that will minimize mistakes,

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maximize safety.

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You'll notice that there 
definite cheese making steps,

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the pump over of the milk, 
the arrival of the milk,

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the culturing of the milk, 
the taking pH of the milk.

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>>So what's, explain the 
importance of the pH,

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taking the pH of the milk.

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>>Well, essentially what 
we're doing a base pH reading,

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acidity, pH is acidity 
and we will take a reading

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at the beginning we know 
that our milk is at 6.8

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and we're going to carefully 
channel this milk down to 6.4.

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At that point we're 
going to add the rennet.

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And what that does

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is that's when it 
starts forming the curd,

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the infamous, proverbial 
curds and then the cutting.

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And that's gonna release 
the whey from the milk

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and the stirring is going 
to create the texture.

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So as long as we follow 
these steps on our make sheet

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then we basically guide the 
milk to the end process.

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>>And so what is the most 
important step, would you say?

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You pump the milk in,

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what is really the most 
important part of it?

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Or are they all 
equally important?

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>>Well, it's like a domino 
effect they all you know,

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when one thing goes wrong 
then the next step is wrong,

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so they're all really mutually 
dependent on each other

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>>And you taste the milk 
regularly, don't you?

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>>Oh, absolutely.

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You know this is craft and 
observing your ingredients

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because if something's off 
you need to know it sooner

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rather than later.

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>>And what do you do 
if your milk tastes,

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give me an example.

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>>Well, we started milking 
this year a little early.

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We started in January.

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And it was quite cold.

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The goats were not on grass yet.

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They were getting hay

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that's not as vibrant 
as local, fresh hay.

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And I felt that the milk

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tasted a little 
vegetable and astringent.

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You know just didn't 
have a full sweet flavor

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that I like for my cheeses.

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And so we added some 
sweet feed to their diet

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and the milk started 
tasting a little rounder,

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a little smoother.

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So that's an example of that.

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It's just really knowing,

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seasonally how your 
milk is gonna taste.

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>>Right and you take 
the temperature.

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What is that, what 
is that about?

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>>The culture develops 
flavor at 25 degrees celsius.

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That's our target.

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And that's very cool.

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If it gets too hot the 
culture works too fast.

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>>Oh, okay.

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>>If the culture works too fast

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then you're really not 
getting the ultimate flavor

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that you want in a cheese.

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And so why go to all this work 
if you're gonna rush things?

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>>Right. What kind of cheese 
are you making in here today?

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>>Well, this is going 
to be Esmontonian.

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It's our American Cheese 
Society award winner

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and we're quite proud of it.

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It's a raw milk cheese meaning

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that we don't heat treat 
the milk in any way.

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It's got a long way to go 
before it's Esmontonian.

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It ages for a minimum 
of sixty days...

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>>Okay.

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>>In a controlled humidity 
temperature environment.

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It's really at its 
peak at 90 to 120 days

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so you see we're 
talking process.

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What we do here is 
really the blueprint

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for how this cheese is 
gonna taste 120 days

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down the road.

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>>So this process here is 
called agitating, right?

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>>Yeah.

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>>So we're hanging out...

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>>Having a chat...

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>>Peaceful and nice.

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>>People think you have 
a dream job, right?

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>>A lot of times I 
say my dream job,

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sometimes my nightmare 
but, because it is a job.

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We do have to make money

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and if it were just about 
hanging out with the goats

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and living the farm life;

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it's all great, 
don't get me wrong

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but there are days when 
things don't go right.

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You know, deliveries 
don't get done

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or chefs send you their 
order twenty minutes

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before you leave the farm

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or a delivery in DC goes wrong

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and there are twenty 
people wanting to know why

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and it's out of your hands.

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So, yes, it's a great 
job but it's a job.

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>>Right. Okay, and you 
make other cheeses.

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Name the other 
cheeses that you make.

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>>Well, we make one 
cow's milk cheese

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from the Silky Cow Farm milk.

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We call it Red Row.

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We wash that cheese 
in hard apple cider

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from Albemarle Cider Works.

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It's our little study in Terroir

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and we talk a lot about that

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but it's the only cow's 
milk cheese that we do

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because we really 
wanna perfect it, so...

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>>Right and you also, it 
helps to keep you season,

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so all year long 
you can make cheese

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because you have goat, right?

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>>Goat milk at certain times,

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you have cow's milk 
at certain times.

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>>One of the things I think 
that people don't really know

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is that goats don't 
really like to give milk

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in the wintertime.

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And so they really cut back.

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The components in their 
milk change a lot,

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it gets, you know, they 
are seasonal breeders

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and so they want to be bred

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and they don't 
want to be milking.

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>>Right.

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>>And so we make fresh 
chevre up until December 31,

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which is good you know.

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It gives us all a 
chance to take a break

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and get our wits about...

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>>Yeah, it gives you a 
little window of down time

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before you kick in again.

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>>So, Cheeses are suited 
to different seasons.

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There's nothing like fresh 
chevre in the spring.

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It's perfect with the foods 
we crave that time of year.

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Asparagus, mushrooms, 
softshell crabs.

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You know early spring.

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So as we get into the summer 
we take most of that milk

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and we turn it into Esmontonian.

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We'll have a little 
bit left over,

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so then we just take a short 
time, a seasonal release.

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In the wintertime, it's 
a cow's milk cheese.

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In the summertime, it's 
a goat's milk cheese.

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And this one is Alberine Ash,

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which is the little paving stone 
with the ash in the middle.

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>>Oh, yum.

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>>So, that's one of the things

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of being a farmstead cheesemaker

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that you gotta understand 
is that we make the cheese

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based on what the best 
milk is for that season.

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>>Right, well that makes sense.

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>>And not the other 
way around so.

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>>Right.

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Talk about the importance 
of making it here.

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This is made in 
Albemarle County.

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This is local cheese.

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>>Well, what we set out 
to do, rather naively,

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I must admit, in the beginning,

243
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was to really make 
cheeses of place.

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I wanted to try to make a cheese

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that was expressive 
of this place.

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And every year as I got 
deeper and deeper into it

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I realized that it 
was so much more

248
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about the place making the milk

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and then the milk 
makes the cheese.

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And if you think about 
that then that is your own.

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That is your copyright, 
that is your trademark.

252
00:10:33,299 --> 00:10:37,436
That is how no one else 
can make those cheeses

253
00:10:37,436 --> 00:10:40,139
and no one can take that 
away from your village.

254
00:10:40,139 --> 00:10:41,674
>>Right.

255
00:10:41,674 --> 00:10:43,609
>>That's really the way it 
works all over the world

256
00:10:43,609 --> 00:10:47,113
>>Talk about the 
cheese cutting process

257
00:10:47,113 --> 00:10:50,116
because you were 
saying to me earlier,

258
00:10:50,116 --> 00:10:53,953
every time you do it, 
it just amazes you.

259
00:10:53,953 --> 00:10:56,622
>>Every single time I 
look at it and I think,

260
00:10:56,622 --> 00:10:57,990
I can't believe that worked.

261
00:10:59,458 --> 00:11:03,029
Because here we have this bit 
pot of milk, let's face it,

262
00:11:03,029 --> 00:11:05,097
it's just a big pot 
of milk right now.

263
00:11:05,097 --> 00:11:08,134
And we're gonna add the 
rennet, which is an enzyme,

264
00:11:08,134 --> 00:11:10,136
and it's going to transform it.

265
00:11:10,136 --> 00:11:12,805
It's every time you 
make cheese you,

266
00:11:12,805 --> 00:11:16,008
it's alchemy, you've 
transformed something

267
00:11:16,008 --> 00:11:18,978
into something else 
and I never tire of it.

268
00:11:20,346 --> 00:11:23,816
>>And then if, where are 
your cheese found these days?

269
00:11:23,816 --> 00:11:26,018
I believe you have a 
distributor now, so...

270
00:11:26,018 --> 00:11:26,952
>>I do.

271
00:11:26,952 --> 00:11:28,187
We're in our eighth season

272
00:11:28,187 --> 00:11:32,558
and so I started out I 
did a lot of everything.

273
00:11:32,558 --> 00:11:37,196
This year we work with a 
few distributors locally.

274
00:11:37,196 --> 00:11:40,833
Cavalier Produce 
does a great job.

275
00:11:40,833 --> 00:11:43,602
The Local Food Hub 
also does a great job

276
00:11:43,602 --> 00:11:47,139
and then up in DC I 
found a small distributor

277
00:11:47,139 --> 00:11:49,775
who has a lot of restaurants 
and specialty shops.

278
00:11:49,775 --> 00:11:53,179
And we ship as far 
as New York City,

279
00:11:53,179 --> 00:11:55,214
as far south as New Orleans.

280
00:11:55,214 --> 00:11:58,484
So what had started out 
as this little local thing

281
00:11:58,484 --> 00:12:01,020
has really grown into 
a regional thing.

282
00:12:01,020 --> 00:12:06,025
But I'm still very proud 
of how Charlottesville

283
00:12:07,193 --> 00:12:09,829
and this area, 
Albemarle, Nelson,

284
00:12:09,829 --> 00:12:13,099
really retains 
ownership of Caromont.

285
00:12:13,099 --> 00:12:15,901
They really feel like this 
cheese belongs to them

286
00:12:15,901 --> 00:12:18,537
and that really makes me happy.

287
00:12:18,537 --> 00:12:19,772
>>Yeah, well it 
makes me happy, too.

288
00:12:19,772 --> 00:12:21,173
I'm glad you make your cheese.

289
00:12:21,173 --> 00:12:22,108
It's delicious.

290
00:12:22,108 --> 00:12:23,075
>>Well thank you.

291
00:12:23,075 --> 00:12:25,244
>>Thank you, Gail.