WEBVTT

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Right along the border that
separates Mexico from

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Southwestern Arizona, is a
land of fire, ash and lava.

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It's called the Sierra Pinacate.

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For some people, it is a land
of brutal heat and pitiless

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isolation.

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This is vast.

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For me, and many others, it's a
wild land of unparalleled beauty

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inviting exploration.

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Funding for In the
Americas with David Yetman

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was provided by
Agnese Haury

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♪

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Funding for In the Americas
with David Yetman

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was also provided by
the Guilford Fund.

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♪

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♪
In the Americas with
David Yetman theme

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In the middle of the 19th
century, the United States

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purchased from Mexico a large
tract of land, called the

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Gadsden purchase.

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Because the line was changed
during the purchase, not

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included in it, was the largest
volcanic field in any desert in

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North America, the Sierra
Pinacate. It's now in Mexico,

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parts of extending even
into Arizona.

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Not only is it a land of former
fire and smoke and explosions,

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but it has a significant human
history as well.

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There's nowhere else on
earth quite like it.

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The Pinacate volcanic range is
so vast, that it is easily

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visible from outer space, as
a dark spot in a desert of

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sand dunes.

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The black color, is mostly lava,
it has poured out of fisher█s

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holes and cones from much
of the last 40, 000 years.

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The pockmarks are a mixture
of cinder cones, well over 400

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of them, and craters.

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Holes produced by cataclysmic
explosions, which number at

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least eight and are the most
dramatic features of the range,

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in fact, of any range in
the Americas.

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The darkness of the lava
contrasts, most agreeably, with

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the light brown of the sand.

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The largest area of dune
fields in the Americas.

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The Sierra Pinacate is
not easy to reach.

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The few roads are rough and
are controlled by Mexican

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national park service.

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The east side where visitors
must register, has the better

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roadways, dirt tracks that are
graded every once in awhile.

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It's best to visit this rugged
dry range with friends,

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a small group of us will camp
in an unimproved campground

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in a most unusual location.
The middle of a cinder cone.

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Included are my Mexican
colleague and friend, ecologist

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Alberto Búrquez and my brother,
geologist Dick Yetman.

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Alberto has a special affinity
for the Sierra Pinacate, he was

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assigned to, selected by the
Mexican government in the

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early 1990s, to demonstrate
the significance of Pinacates

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to the Mexican nation.

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We're here thirty miles from the
nearest reliable source of water

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hot!

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If we want to go to the top of
that hill, we█re nuts.

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But three-hundred years
ago, some intrepid souls did it.

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Well yes. Father Kino was a
Jesuit, decided to go on

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top of that hill and look
towards the sea to be sure

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that Baja California
was a peninsula.

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Well for sure you can see
the sea, and you can see

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Baja California.

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And in a very clear day, you
might see the mouth of

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the Colorado River.

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One of the most incredible
things about this place, is that

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is the fact that if you come don
here, you█re seeing land forms

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you have to go to several
different places in the North

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American continent to see.

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There are lava flows that are
found here, maybe in Hawaii,

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maybe in a few other places.
But here we have all of them.

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It can be extended probably
to 15-30 thousand years ago

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that the last major events took
place here. In terms of geology,

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that is a flash.

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That is very close to
where we are now.

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One of the reasons we see
things differently here than

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we do in for example the
Northwest, is because the

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variety of lava here was
much more basic.

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There was a lower silica in
the lava, which meant higher

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viscosity, flow structures are
different and were not getting

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the violent explosions that
typically we find with for

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example, Mount St. Helens
with the top that blew off.

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And because there's so little
rainfall, we have so little

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vegetation and there are so
many studies that show the

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impact vegetation has on
erosion, and even with the

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volcanic rocks like this, we
find a lot of fertile soil which

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is ripe for vegetation, but the
one thing missing here of course

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is the moisture produced the
life-giving force for that

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vegetation.

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When one comes to the
Pinacate you're going to see

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maar craters, which are created
when magma comes into contact

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with groundwater, and creates
a great steam explosion, very

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dramatic structures, big round,
profound, deep, and we can look

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back at the shield of the
Pinacate peak, which is a

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composite volcano in
the shape of a shield.

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All around the flanks of this
shield volcano, there are over

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400 cinder cones. These are
small volcanoes that are a

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one-time thing, they come
up and form and then they're

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done. It's not like they're
going to erupt again.

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We're on top of a lava ridge
here, Richard. Why is it

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just one big plain?

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That's the neat thing about
this type of lava, it's so

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viscous it█s so thick, that it's
not like pancake batter

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exactly, it█s more like a
real thick biscuit batter.

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It doesn't flow in all
directions; it follows the path

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of least resistance. So it's
coming along and hits

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a ridge or something that's
already there and goes around it

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It creates a new valley.

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Boy, it's all over, valley ridge
and none of it is easy

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to walk on.

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No. This particular stuff here
you can see its carrying all

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the debris that has come
across on its way down here.

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Oh, yeah! It's full of rocks.
And the barrel cactus.

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Thirsty

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They're thirsty. And yet,
look how healthy they are.

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They survive, 2 inches of
rain a year, maybe 3,

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sometimes none at all.

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One of the greatest inventions
in the last two centuries is a

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shock pole. These are aluminum
aircraft alloy, and you take

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them like this and all of the
sudden you have a pole, that's

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perfect for setting up a tent.

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Even if there's a thunder storm
on its way, which there never is

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in the Pinacate, at least,
hasn't been for a couple of

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years.

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You set it up like that.

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Now you're ready for desert
camping, in this area of red

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cone, we have ash. Volcanic
ash, it's a pumice, it is soft

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and you can see it moves
around rather nicely, then

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if I indent it then I can smooth
it back over, and it is the

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perfect place to camp.

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Ash invites you to sleep, lulls
you to sleep by its softnes.

08:34.333 --> 08:38.433 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
It█s not like anything like,
its explosive volcanic ash.

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This is red-cone, remnants of
a cinder cone and in the

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Pinacates it's where the road
from the east ends and Father

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Kino decided to walk the rest
of the way after the top.

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It's red, because of the weird
iron composition of the volcanic

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ash that came out of the
volcano and some of the lava.

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In every different lava flow,
the composition is different,

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different chemistry means
different color. Red cone is

09:11.933 --> 09:14.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
known throughout the region,
as the one place where its,

09:14.733 --> 09:16.366 align:start position:37.5% line:84.67% size:25%
sharp red.

09:19.266 --> 09:24.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
I was able to come here, at
the end of 1990, so that was

09:24.100 --> 09:29.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:70%
my first time here and since
then, I was just captivated by

09:29.666 --> 09:33.400 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
the landscape, it's unique,
it's magnetic. As it happens to

09:33.533 --> 09:36.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
all the travelers that come
here, this place has

09:37.033 --> 09:42.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
extraordinary magic, it's a
magnet for explorers.

09:44.033 --> 09:47.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
It's a magnet for writers and
for people looking for the

09:47.700 --> 09:51.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:75%
aesthetics of the environment.
I happen to be in an

09:52.000 --> 09:56.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
extraordinary time, in which
the United States and Mexico

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wanted to create reserves
along the border. And the

10:00.566 --> 10:05.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:75%
Pinacate and the Gran Desierto
reserves were really important

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for both countries.

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This crater is 244 meters deep.

10:11.833 --> 10:13.966 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:77.5%
So, that's about 800 feet deep.

10:14.100 --> 10:15.000 align:start position:27.5% line:84.67% size:45%
Yes, more or less.

10:15.166 --> 10:17.100 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:55%
And about a mile wide.

10:18.133 --> 10:19.700 align:start position:25% line:84.67% size:52.5%
That█s a mile across?

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Every decade or so, there's
a pond down there that quickly

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disappears.

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Geologists found there is a
layer of travertine, somewhere

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there, that indicates
the presence of the lake

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Of a deep lake.

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Lake that probably was a
hundred, hundred and fifty

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feet deep, that was full of freh
water and probably many of

10:45.733 --> 10:49.233 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
the local fauna and
migrating birds took advantage.

10:49.366 --> 10:50.766 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:55%
So, it was bird oasis.

10:50.933 --> 10:52.633 align:start position:30% line:84.67% size:42.5%
17,000 years ago.

10:54.100 --> 10:58.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The great appeal of El Pinacate
and Gran Desierto de altar is

10:58.500 --> 11:01.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
that there are many, many
geomorphic features; features

11:01.566 --> 11:05.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
that are associated to the
geography and the morphology

11:05.166 --> 11:09.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
of the land. So, you have
craters, you have cinder cones,

11:09.633 --> 11:14.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
you have granite mountains,
you have great valleys and

11:14.566 --> 11:19.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
arroyos, you have gallery
forests in the desert. And then

11:20.066 --> 11:25.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:70%
if you go west, you find the
great sea of dunes, that have

11:25.266 --> 11:29.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
the great star dunes, and
then the most isolated of

11:29.433 --> 11:32.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
the drylands of North
America, Sierra el Rosario.

11:36.433 --> 11:41.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
They call this the tecolote flow
it's quite a steep little climb.

11:41.200 --> 11:45.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
I don't know why tecolote,
that means owls in Spanish?

11:45.500 --> 11:46.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
How did that get in the
conversation?

11:46.466 --> 11:47.366 align:start position:40% line:84.67% size:22.5%
Beats me.

11:47.466 --> 11:48.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
What do owls have to
do with lava?

11:48.633 --> 11:53.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
But this is vast. It goes
on and on, and on.

11:55.066 --> 11:56.500 align:start position:20% line:84.67% size:62.5%
Man, this ins incredible.

11:57.233 --> 12:01.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Tell me, that is, that is
a raft, right?

12:01.900 --> 12:05.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
It looks like it's a piece of
the crater from way over

12:05.233 --> 12:09.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
there, that got rafted,
carried out by the lava,

12:09.233 --> 12:10.266 align:start position:27.5% line:84.67% size:45%
all this distance.

12:10.333 --> 12:12.300 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Heck, what's that?
3/4 of a mile, at least.

12:12.433 --> 12:15.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Maybe a mile. And it's just
sitting on top of out here,

12:15.166 --> 12:18.633 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
I feel like there█s a bulldozer
underground, just pushing

12:18.733 --> 12:19.666 align:start position:30% line:84.67% size:40%
this mass along.

12:21.800 --> 12:25.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
These big chunks are actually
pieces of the original lava

12:25.500 --> 12:28.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
flow probably that came from
the top and broke up as the

12:28.333 --> 12:31.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
energy kept pushing. But the
cinders down here on the ground,

12:33.066 --> 12:36.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65%
this is actually, probably
chunks of cinder from the

12:36.466 --> 12:39.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
crater, because it was a
cinder cone. So, this stuff gets

12:40.066 --> 12:43.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:70%
locked in the lava, maybe in
big blobs and gets more easily

12:43.666 --> 12:44.566 align:start position:35% line:84.67% size:30%
broken down.

12:49.000 --> 12:52.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Down here, we have very
fine clay soils. That will

12:53.033 --> 12:56.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:55%
support as we call the
creosote bush.

12:56.933 --> 13:02.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Well as we progress towards
the crater, then we see the

13:02.466 --> 13:05.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
brittle bush that grows
in coarser soils.

13:06.800 --> 13:11.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:75%
When I look at Cerro Colorado,
first off the color is different

13:11.800 --> 13:15.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:70%
you don't see the dark lavas
all around

13:15.866 --> 13:18.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
What geologists said that
there were, sort of little lakes

13:19.000 --> 13:23.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
around, which, one remains
close by. So, when the volcanic

13:24.033 --> 13:27.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65%
activity occurred, it went
through layers of mud.

13:27.966 --> 13:30.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
That's we see mud everywhere
here. That's why.

13:30.566 --> 13:33.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Yes, yes, yes just lift the mud,
and there were explosions and

13:34.100 --> 13:37.033 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
there was hydrothermal activity
and there were lots of water

13:37.166 --> 13:42.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and steam, magma contacted
the mud and the water table,

13:42.166 --> 13:45.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
and then there was an
explosion and another, and

13:45.933 --> 13:47.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
another. And that can be
seen in the walls.

13:48.933 --> 13:52.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:65%
Cerro Colorado is isolated
from the rest of the east side

13:52.733 --> 13:57.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
of the range, no roads laid
across, we must return to

13:57.633 --> 14:00.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Mexico Highway 2, which
parallels the border with the

14:00.833 --> 14:05.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
United States,for more than
20 miles,to reach the west side.

14:09.066 --> 14:13.766 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
The west side roads are
unimproved dirt tracks,sometimes

14:13.866 --> 14:18.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:60%
obscured by blowing sand
or washed out by an occasional

14:18.233 --> 14:21.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
flash flood. Weeks may go by,
without a single vehicle

14:21.133 --> 14:23.600 align:start position:30% line:84.67% size:40%
passing through.

14:25.066 --> 14:29.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Back in the late 1960s,
NASA was trying to train

14:29.866 --> 14:34.666 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:75%
astronauts to ride in vehicles
on the moon. And now we

14:34.800 --> 14:37.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
know that the astronauts
practicing here left some

14:38.000 --> 14:42.800 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
graffiti, part of a 10,000 year
old history of graffiti here.

14:42.933 --> 14:48.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The area here is so well
suited to a keep the record,

14:48.800 --> 14:52.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
that it has endured since
the 1970s here, as

14:53.000 --> 14:58.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5%
paintings or engravings
have endured 10, 000 years

14:58.300 --> 15:00.466 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:57.5%
in the Pinacate region.

15:03.400 --> 15:06.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Throughout the Pinacate,
everywhere you look the

15:07.100 --> 15:09.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:57.5%
rocks become almost the
same color, with this kind

15:09.933 --> 15:11.166 align:start position:30% line:84.67% size:42.5%
of shiny surface.

15:11.800 --> 15:17.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:67.5%
This luster that most rocks
of the Pinacate have, because

15:17.100 --> 15:19.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
they have remaining C2,
and they have been buried in

15:19.633 --> 15:22.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
the same position for
thousands of years. Nothing

15:22.300 --> 15:26.333 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
else grows, but this
microorganism that they deposit

15:26.466 --> 15:29.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
a layer of minerals on
top of the rock.

15:30.700 --> 15:33.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
So, this rock has been here
for many thousands of years

15:33.700 --> 15:37.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
and had time to develop
the varnish and underneath,

15:37.633 --> 15:41.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
it looks just kind of like an
ordinary piece of rock.

15:41.133 --> 15:42.300 align:start position:27.5% line:84.67% size:45%
No varnish on top.

15:46.566 --> 15:49.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
This is called El Trébol, which
actually in Spanish means

15:49.266 --> 15:54.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
clover leaf. It's a maar crater,
but what's unique about it is

15:54.300 --> 15:58.533 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
has three loaves, it is said
that there is a fourth loave in

15:58.666 --> 16:01.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
this one. So, there were, it
looks like there were three

16:01.733 --> 16:04.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
eruptions, which created
this maar. Probably very

16:04.866 --> 16:08.400 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
close together. And if you
walk the perimeter of this,

16:08.533 --> 16:10.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
you can see where the
fourth one probably was.

16:13.266 --> 16:16.300 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
This place is called Tinajas
de los Papagos or Papago

16:16.400 --> 16:20.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Tanks it is the most reliable
and accessible supply of

16:20.533 --> 16:23.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
water, guaranteed water
in all of the Pinacate.

16:24.266 --> 16:27.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65%
It has been here and known
by indigenous people for

16:27.900 --> 16:30.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
thousands of years and they
relied on it as they move

16:30.633 --> 16:33.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65%
back and forth between the
Gulf of California and the

16:33.333 --> 16:35.466 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:77.5%
North. Primarily bringing salt.

16:35.566 --> 16:40.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
There are clear indications
that people have been here

16:40.966 --> 16:45.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:75%
before, these are little water
holes in the salt and the lava .

16:45.366 --> 16:49.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
And here is a huge one, and
it's beautifully round, it could

16:49.200 --> 16:53.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
not be anything but a place
where women and maybe some

16:53.400 --> 16:56.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
men sat to grind. What did they
grind, Alberto? What did they

16:57.033 --> 16:58.166 align:start position:37.5% line:84.67% size:25%
make here?

16:58.300 --> 17:02.966 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The staple here was mesquite
pods, you would have the

17:03.100 --> 17:05.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
whole pod of the mesquite
and you have to grind it,

17:05.400 --> 17:07.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and many other things of
course, you can add some

17:08.066 --> 17:09.300 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:70%
tribulus that you collected.

17:11.766 --> 17:17.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60%
Squash, corn. These were
the blenders of the time.

17:18.966 --> 17:24.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The landscape here is sort of
bleak, all lava, but you do have

17:24.400 --> 17:26.166 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
the glorious Palo Verde. And
when you have to live here,

17:29.866 --> 17:33.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The O'odham after whom the
Papago Tanks are named,

17:34.066 --> 17:38.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
base their annual calendar
on the reproductive cycle of

17:38.400 --> 17:41.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:65%
the saguaro the flowering,
the fruiting, they make wine.

17:41.333 --> 17:44.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
And to find them here,
would just be an additional

17:44.500 --> 17:47.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:55%
bonus to the water and
the saguaros all around here.

17:48.066 --> 17:50.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The saguaro is the iconic
plant of the Sonoran Desert.

17:50.866 --> 17:54.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
It invades, it's present
everywhere and the law of

17:55.033 --> 17:56.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
the indigenous people of
the Sonoran Desert.

17:57.233 --> 18:01.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
God the other plant, you
can't not notice, is the brittl.

18:01.333 --> 18:03.000 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:55%
Brilliant yellow gold.

18:03.333 --> 18:06.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
And there's one with the red
center that is Encelia farinose.

18:06.500 --> 18:08.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65%
It█s associated with water
courses farther the north.

18:13.066 --> 18:17.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Among the many craters that
Sierra Pinacate holds, Crater

18:17.233 --> 18:20.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Sykes is my favorite. Not
only is it different from the

18:20.766 --> 18:24.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:67.5%
other craters, in the sands
of, there is a deepest to the

18:24.733 --> 18:28.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
diameter, but also because
it has all sorts beautiful colos

18:29.033 --> 18:30.066 align:start position:35% line:84.67% size:32.5%
in its frame.

18:32.333 --> 18:35.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
At the bottom, what we
find is the collapse of the

18:35.233 --> 18:40.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
crater itself, that created a
very sandy bottom. In which

18:40.233 --> 18:43.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
there's a small plier. when
there are outpours of rain,

18:43.400 --> 18:49.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
it causes a little bit of water,
as well as Elegante, at sometims

18:49.766 --> 18:54.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Sykes had a lake inside.
Sykes is not the only crater

18:54.766 --> 18:58.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
in this small area, there are
many others around, McDougal,

18:58.800 --> 19:05.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Molina, Badillo, and Celaya .
And farther south, the crater

19:05.500 --> 19:07.066 align:start position:27.5% line:84.67% size:45%
La Luna, the moon.

19:15.133 --> 19:18.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
About 20 miles from the
southern foothills of the Sierra

19:18.300 --> 19:22.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:75%
Pinacate is the Mexican resort
on the gulf of California,

19:22.700 --> 19:26.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
called Puerto Peñasco or
Rocky Point. Today it█s a

19:26.900 --> 19:32.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
bustling tourist haven of
about 60,000 people, many

19:32.900 --> 19:35.200 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:45%
of them Mexican or
American tourists.

19:35.933 --> 19:40.966 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
50 years ago it was a small,
quiet, easy going fishing

19:41.100 --> 19:44.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
village of a couple hundred
people, with one street.

19:45.533 --> 19:48.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
This new tourist magnet
draws its water from the aquifer

19:49.000 --> 19:53.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
underlying the Sierra Pinacate.
It's harder to imagine a greater

19:53.833 --> 19:57.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
contrast than the frantic
activity among the thousands

19:57.500 --> 19:59.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
of tourists in Puerto Peñasco
and the wild desolation of the

19:59.466 --> 20:04.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:52.5%
volcanic range of the
Sierra Pinacate.

20:07.800 --> 20:11.300 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Many people drive south from
the states into Rocky Point,

20:11.400 --> 20:15.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
just to have a good time there.
Never realizing that they are

20:16.066 --> 20:21.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:57.5%
going past this amazing
piece of earth, in here. That

20:22.033 --> 20:26.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
has been decreed as world
heritage by Unesco.

20:30.633 --> 20:33.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The sand dunes here, in the
gran desierto, you can see a

20:33.600 --> 20:38.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
classic geological battle going
on. The lava flow called the

20:38.800 --> 20:40.133 align:start position:40% line:84.67% size:22.5%
Ives flow

20:40.233 --> 20:44.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
comes out of the Sierra Pinacate
flows down, covering sand as it

20:44.666 --> 20:49.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:70%
comes, meets the granites of
Sierra Blanca, starts going up

20:49.133 --> 20:53.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
the side and continues. After
it cools, the winds continue

20:53.833 --> 20:57.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and bring in the sand and
the sand then covers the lava.

20:57.400 --> 21:00.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
And until a new lava flow
comes to cover the sand,

21:01.066 --> 21:05.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
the battle will go to the
victor. In this case the sand.

21:06.900 --> 21:09.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:57.5%
So, to have sand dunes,
real sand dunes, you have

21:09.466 --> 21:14.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
to have two things; a lot
of wind and a source of sand.

21:15.566 --> 21:16.866 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:55%
And here we have both.

21:17.000 --> 21:18.133 align:start position:27.5% line:84.67% size:45%
Here we have both.

21:18.200 --> 21:21.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Strong winds in the upper
gulf of California and the

21:21.533 --> 21:26.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Colorado river carrying Rocky
Mountains sand down into the

21:26.600 --> 21:27.933 align:start position:27.5% line:84.67% size:45%
mouth of the gulf.

21:28.233 --> 21:30.366 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Do you think that perhaps
the sand we█re walking on,

21:30.500 --> 21:32.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
was once part of what is
now Grand Canyon?

21:33.066 --> 21:38.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Indeed, by Yuma, it was
reckoned that it had a million

21:38.733 --> 21:42.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
tons of sand that were
carried every year.

21:43.000 --> 21:43.933 align:start position:37.5% line:84.67% size:27.5%
Every year.

21:46.133 --> 21:48.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Have you ever noticed,
that climbing up sand

21:48.500 --> 21:49.833 align:start position:30% line:84.67% size:40%
dunes is tricky?

21:50.300 --> 21:51.600 align:start position:35% line:84.67% size:30%
It's tiring.

21:52.000 --> 21:55.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:70%
I have to tell you something
important, it is a lot easier

21:55.300 --> 21:55.900 align:start position:37.5% line:84.67% size:27.5%
going down.

21:56.933 --> 21:57.800 align:start position:35% line:84.67% size:30%
I love that.

21:57.933 --> 21:58.666 align:start position:45% line:84.67% size:12.5%
Yeah.

21:58.733 --> 22:00.333 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:77.5%
As a kid, I enjoyed it so much.

22:00.466 --> 22:02.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The plants have not
stabilized this yet.

22:04.300 --> 22:08.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
But now we come down here
and all of the sudden, here

22:08.200 --> 22:12.133 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
are plants. Here's a perfect
example of a plant that can

22:12.233 --> 22:14.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
survive in the dunes.
Look at this.

22:16.500 --> 22:22.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The trunk, originally was about
6 inches in the sand and

22:22.200 --> 22:23.600 align:start position:20% line:84.67% size:60%
now it's been excavated.

22:24.100 --> 22:27.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Sometimes you will find only
the top of this plant, going

22:27.900 --> 22:32.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
out of the dune and then it
deflates and the sand is

22:32.766 --> 22:36.133 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
carried away, and then these
roots are exposed. And they

22:36.266 --> 22:37.533 align:start position:32.5% line:84.67% size:35%
can go far....

22:37.666 --> 22:39.500 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:70%
They must be 10 meters down.

22:39.866 --> 22:40.933 align:start position:37.5% line:84.67% size:25%
Very long.

22:41.166 --> 22:44.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:60%
And the dunes hold water
very well, so if they want

22:44.933 --> 22:46.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65%
to have the roots in water
they have to go down to

22:47.000 --> 22:48.133 align:start position:35% line:84.67% size:30%
where it is.

22:48.200 --> 22:51.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Well, dunes are the subjects
of the whim of winds.

22:52.066 --> 22:53.200 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:60%
the whim of winds, good.

22:55.866 --> 22:59.233 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:45%
We are very lucky,
here is a Ajo Lily.

22:59.366 --> 22:59.400 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
We are very lucky,
Aren't they beautiful?.

23:00.100 --> 23:01.366 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:55%
Aren't they beautiful?

23:01.500 --> 23:02.333 align:start position:40% line:84.67% size:22.5%
One, one.

23:03.733 --> 23:08.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
But in good years, there
are thousands, perhaps

23:09.000 --> 23:14.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
millions of them. Very tall.
Covering the whole desert.

23:15.633 --> 23:19.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
They have a bulb, just like
any lily that you plant, right?

23:19.733 --> 23:23.400 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
And they have a storage bulb
underneath and they, when

23:23.500 --> 23:26.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
it rains then, they will pick
up that moisture and store

23:26.400 --> 23:28.766 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:60%
it in that bulb, and get
carried away.

23:29.333 --> 23:34.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Yes, just to survive by the
season, and a wait for the

23:34.466 --> 23:37.633 align:start position:10% line:84.67% size:67.5%
expected good winter rains.

23:48.333 --> 23:51.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:65%
We can still see the faint
outline of the city of Puerto

23:51.500 --> 23:55.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Penasco, the dunes, which
I'm standing, seem to present

23:55.600 --> 24:01.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
a buffer or barrier or protectie
coating for the Pinacate

24:01.566 --> 24:05.666 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:75%
biological reserve. Beyond us,
is a wilderness that needs to

24:05.800 --> 24:07.300 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:55%
be protected, forever.

24:07.433 --> 24:14.800 align:start position:25% line:84.67% size:2.5%
♪

24:50.200 --> 24:52.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Join us next time
in the americas

24:52.833 --> 24:55.833 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:32.5%
with me David
Yetman

24:57.300 --> 24:57.333 align:start position:25% line:10% size:52.5%
They are producers of
oxygen and absorbers
of greenhouse gases.

24:58.933 --> 25:00.433 align:start position:25% line:10% size:50%
Tropical rainforests
are among earth's great
drivers of climate.

25:00.566 --> 25:02.466 align:start position:25% line:10% size:52.5%
They are producers of
oxygen and absorbers
of greenhouse gases.

25:02.833 --> 25:06.400 align:start position:22.5% line:10% size:40%
Part of expanded
researchinto how
our planet operates...

25:06.633 --> 25:09.533 align:start position:22.5% line:74% size:57.5%
are two different sites
dedicated to expanding
our understanding...

25:09.666 --> 25:13.300 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:32.5%
of these huge
reservoirs of life.

25:13.400 --> 25:16.866 align:start position:20% line:74% size:60%
The Biosphere in Arizona
and the rain forest
of Costa Rica.

25:20.200 --> 25:22.966 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:57.5%
I don't have my hat on.

25:23.100 --> 25:25.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:65%
It's alright, this is sort
of like behind the scenes

25:26.066 --> 25:29.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
of what it takes to make
good television

25:33.233 --> 25:35.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Dave is slaving
away in the kitchen

25:35.366 --> 25:37.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
He volunteered to bring
breakfast

25:37.366 --> 25:38.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
That's because in the
morning Dave does something

25:41.033 --> 25:44.333 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Restless activity
proves a man -Goethe

25:53.900 --> 25:56.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Funding for In the
Americas with David Yetman

25:56.933 --> 25:59.533 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
was provided by
Agnese Haury

26:05.566 --> 26:08.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Funding for In the Americas
with David Yetman

26:08.500 --> 26:11.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
was also provided by
the Guilford Fund.

26:20.800 --> 26:24.433 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Copies of this and
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26:24.566 --> 26:27.400 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
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with David Yetman

26:27.533 --> 26:29.766 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
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26:29.900 --> 26:32.133 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:32.5%
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26:32.266 --> 26:35.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
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26:36.633 --> 26:39.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
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26:39.866 --> 26:42.933 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:57.5%
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