WEBVTT
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When Spaniards first
described the Aztec city of
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Tenochtitlan, in about 1520,
they could barely control
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their amazement at the
cities great central market.
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It featured goods from all
over the vast Aztec empire,
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and an array none of the
Europeans had ever before seen.
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That market and its abundance
of commodities still exists
00:25.433 --> 00:29.066 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
today in the heart
of Mexico City.
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Funding for In the Americas
David Yetman was provided
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by Agnese Haury.
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For over 600 years the
Zócalo has been the heart of
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Mexico City, its energy,
its hustle and bustle,
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and of all of Mexico.
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Here also began the market
system for the Aztecs,
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later for the Spaniards,
and now for all of Mexico.
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Within just a few miles of
this center, are markets,
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the likes of which you will not
find anywhere else in the world.
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Fortunately for us in the
city's famous National
01:51.533 --> 01:54.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Anthropological Museum, the
Mexican government has created
01:54.533 --> 01:58.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
an exquisite display of
the great Aztec market.
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The Anthropological Museum
of Mexico has painstakingly
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created the city
of Tenochtitlan,
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as Cortez and the
Spaniards first saw it.
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One of the grandest
urban sites ever created.
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Tenochtitlan, the
Aztec capital,
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was located on an island
in the middle of the lake
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Texcoco, which now is reduced to
a tiny portion of what it was.
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Associated with Tenochtitlan
was a separate and often
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independent political
entity called Tlatelolco,
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which is the market center.
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The market center and the rest
of the island was connected to
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the mainland by a number
of causeways or highways,
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and these were the center
of constant activity.
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They provided a good defensive
structure to protect the
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island from enemies, but they
also allowed the Aztecs to
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control the flow of commerce
in and off the island.
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The market itself was
organized in a way that almost
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nothing in Europe could
match at the time.
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That market system
has continued,
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and we can see it in Mexico
City everywhere today,
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and all over the republic.
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The source of most of the
fresh produce in the great
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market was the Aztec
colony of Xochimilco.
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No one knows that place better
than my colleague, Nemer Narchi.
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To get into the gardens, Nemer
uses the same transportation
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Aztecs used 500
years ago. A boat.
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Xochimilco has been associated
with the southern part
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of Mexico City for a long time.
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It is a popular tourist place
now and has been for some time.
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It's noted for its
floating gardens,
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which are really chinampas, an
agricultural system that has
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been in existence for more
than just a few years.
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Dave- So Tenochtitlan was
built, which is Mexico City...
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Nemer- Mhm...
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Dave- 1325 it was founded.
Nemer- Yeah...
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Dave- So they were already
here 1100 years
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before the Aztecs (laughs)...
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Nemer- Yeah, before that...
Dave- That's a long time!
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Nemer- And they did a lot of
alliances with the Aztecs,
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and finally they were
subdued by the empire.
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Dave- But did they start their
agricultural practices here?
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Was it similar to what
they are doing now?
04:28.000 --> 04:30.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Nemer- It is pretty much the
same as what they are doing now.
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Dave- For 2000 years?
Nemer- For, uh, 1500...
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Dave- For 1500 years...
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Nemer- Yes, there came a
time where there was no wild
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edibles, especially
animal protein...
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Dave- Uh huh...
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Nemer- And somebody came
with this beautiful,
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beautiful idea
of the chinampa,
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which are the plots we have
on our side and they have a
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tremendous productivity, you
have from 4 to 7 crops a year.
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Nemer- The canal system
right now is 80km long,
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you line all that...
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Dave- One end to another they
would line up that long...
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Nemer- Yes...
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Dave- How much of
that is actively in
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agricultural production?
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Nemer- Little, like 6%,
we have 50,000 chinampas,
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of which 94% is
abandoned right now.
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The policies of modernizing
the agriculture in Mexico City
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had to do a lot with
introducing green houses,
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abandoning the, the
traditional ways because it
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was not appealing to this form
of industrial thinking that we
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have in the twentieth
century, probably
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since the nineteenth century.
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Nemer- You can see Xochimilco
was a cultural landscape,
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its all manufactured
by humans.
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You can see there is an
urban trait of the canal,
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see how each chinampa has
a service canal beneath it.
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All this is constructed.
05:53.133 --> 05:54.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
And it's constructed
to support the
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big city of Tenochtitlan.
05:57.066 --> 06:00.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The archaeological estimates
suggest that Xochimilco helped
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to sustain a population
between 200,000 and 800,000.
06:06.766 --> 06:08.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Nemer- And with Mexico City,
most of the things we have in
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Mexico City to consume
until the 1950's came from
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Xochimilco and the
nearby montanious areas.
06:16.500 --> 06:26.466 align:start position:40% line:84.67% size:22.5%
[Spanish]
06:28.066 --> 06:35.633 align:start position:40% line:84.67% size:22.5%
[Spanish]
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This is part of the almost
eternal recycling of the
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techniques here at Xochimilco.
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The mud or dirt that they have
planted these in comes from
06:48.200 --> 06:52.100 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
the bottom of the canals, they
bring that up and put it in
06:52.266 --> 06:57.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
little hand shaped molds,
make holes with their fingers,
06:57.333 --> 07:00.333 align:start position:25% line:84.67% size:50%
and plant the seeds.
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This happens to be spinach,
this happens to be lettuce,
07:02.133 --> 07:07.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and according to the
number of the plant,
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the number of the
seeds will vary.
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Then they put this
in the ground,
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they will then cover it with
dried leaves as a mulch,
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and it will grow and the cycle
will continue year
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after year after year.
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This is the best example
almost anywhere of
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a sustainable
agricultural system.
07:31.100 --> 07:32.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The chinampa system is
such that it is always in
07:33.000 --> 07:36.466 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
production, and here
with the vegetable crops,
07:36.600 --> 07:41.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
they can get up to seven crops
a year given the temperature
07:41.466 --> 07:45.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and the growing conditions
but the soil itself is always
07:45.433 --> 07:49.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
fertile, the crops they
plant and the way they form,
07:49.466 --> 07:52.466 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:72.5%
the soil never gets depleted.
07:52.666 --> 07:55.666 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
So they don't have to
stop and give it a rest.
07:57.566 --> 08:00.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Xochimilco is not only the
historic breadbasket of Mexico
08:00.300 --> 08:03.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
City, is is also one of the
few remaining habitats of a
08:03.266 --> 08:09.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
strange and endangered
salamander called the Axolotl.
08:09.600 --> 08:11.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
A former source of animal
protein
08:11.533 --> 08:12.500 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:70%
for pre-Columbian residents.
08:12.666 --> 08:15.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
I would call them
Tiger Salamanders.
08:15.933 --> 08:20.000 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
If a salamander cuts
off an arm or finger,
08:20.133 --> 08:25.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
in three months it will
grow back entirely.
08:25.600 --> 08:27.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
They are using this species
for food production in England.
08:28.066 --> 08:30.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
They are doing a lot of
research and they are the only
08:30.800 --> 08:36.600 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
animal that regenerates
body parts in this way.
08:36.766 --> 08:38.466 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
You know, lizards can
regenerate their tales,
08:38.600 --> 08:40.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:55%
but not their fingers.
08:40.366 --> 08:44.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
This one can, and even parts of
their own heart will regenerate.
08:49.033 --> 08:51.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Nemer- Earlier you could
follow this canal all the way
08:51.366 --> 08:54.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
to the historic center and
people would take their
08:55.066 --> 08:57.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
trajineras full of produce and
use the Mercado de la Merced
08:57.833 --> 09:01.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Dave- You would get
all the way to there?
09:01.633 --> 09:02.966 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:70%
Nemer- All the way to there.
09:03.166 --> 09:05.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Dave- And the canals met
at the Mercado Jamaica?
09:05.533 --> 09:07.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Nemer- Yes, they
passed through Jamaica.
09:08.033 --> 09:09.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Dave- They passed
through Jamaica.
09:09.433 --> 09:10.600 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:55%
Where the flowers are.
09:10.666 --> 09:12.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Nemer- Yes, and actually Jamaica
is next to some chinampas.
09:12.566 --> 09:15.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Dave- They extended
that far to the North.
09:15.633 --> 09:18.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Nemer- Yes, it was
125km of chinampas.
09:18.466 --> 09:24.600 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Nemer mentioned
the flower market.
09:24.733 --> 09:28.766 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
That's where my
friend historian
09:28.900 --> 09:29.800 align:start position:17.5% line:84.67% size:67.5%
Bill Beezley is meeting us.
09:29.933 --> 09:31.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
It's a good 25km from
Xochimilco and the
09:31.833 --> 09:35.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
canals are gone, so we drive
there.
09:43.333 --> 09:44.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Dave- You know this huge
building for the Mercado
09:44.166 --> 09:49.166 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:75%
Jamaica was built in the 50's.
09:49.333 --> 09:52.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
But flowers were sold
here well before you were
09:52.800 --> 09:57.533 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
born, maybe several
centuries before.
09:57.700 --> 09:59.166 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Bill- For at least a thousand
years people have bringing
09:59.333 --> 10:02.466 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:75%
flowers to this very location.
10:02.633 --> 10:03.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Dave- Long before the
Aztecs were even here.
10:03.833 --> 10:06.133 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Bill- Long before the Aztecs
they were bringing them by
10:06.300 --> 10:09.633 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
canoe, from Tlatelolco, the
community of Tlatelolco and
10:09.766 --> 10:13.233 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:32.5%
also from the
community of Xochimilco
10:13.366 --> 10:14.466 align:start position:32.5% line:84.67% size:35%
Dave- By canal
10:14.533 --> 10:16.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Bill- By canal, they would
bring them here and this was
10:16.566 --> 10:20.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
where a market was held to
sell flowers to all kinds of
10:20.666 --> 10:26.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
indigenous nobility, but also
to ordinary people who wanted
10:26.966 --> 10:30.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
to have something
to enliven them
10:30.700 --> 10:31.733 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Dave- They liked
flowers as well,
10:31.800 --> 10:33.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
but this was a water
world, they came by canal.
10:33.400 --> 10:36.000 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
This where we're
standing was canal,
10:36.166 --> 10:39.466 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
this whole part of Mexico City
and this area was one huge
10:39.666 --> 10:44.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:57.5%
system of moving water.
10:44.366 --> 10:45.633 align:start position:25% line:84.67% size:52.5%
It's hard to believe.
10:45.833 --> 10:48.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
That's why this
market is here.
10:55.033 --> 10:58.266 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
These are aromatic roses that
we'll concentrate the smell to
10:58.400 --> 11:01.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
make creams, perfumes,
deodorants, powders,
11:01.233 --> 11:07.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
essential oils, shampoos,
and even rose soap.
11:07.200 --> 11:11.900 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
The processed rose
petals are relaxing,
11:12.033 --> 11:18.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
one will sleep better,
it has a calming effect.
11:22.400 --> 11:23.466 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
So I've got two
different kinds of
11:23.600 --> 11:25.533 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:77.5%
vehicles carrying flowers here.
11:25.733 --> 11:26.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
There's probably
only a ton here,
11:26.600 --> 11:30.133 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and another ton
here on dollies,
11:30.266 --> 11:35.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
and then the truck is
chock full of flowers.
11:35.900 --> 11:38.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Dave- Look at the
marigolds, sempasuche
11:38.966 --> 11:41.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Bill- So the marigolds, a lot
of families use them because
11:41.933 --> 11:45.900 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
it is believed the
souls will follow
11:46.033 --> 11:48.066 align:start position:17.5% line:84.67% size:67.5%
the marigolds to the alter.
11:48.233 --> 11:49.666 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
So they'll take
these marigolds,
11:49.866 --> 11:53.233 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
take the petals and distribute
them up to the alter,
11:53.400 --> 11:58.033 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
so the souls will know how to
come up and get to the alter.
11:58.200 --> 11:59.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Dave- I can't believe
there are this many
12:00.133 --> 12:01.800 align:start position:10% line:84.67% size:80%
marigolds in the world (laughs).
12:02.000 --> 12:04.700 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
I mean there are hundreds of
thousands of bunches of them.
12:04.900 --> 12:11.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Dave- There's more than just
the day of the dead flowers
12:12.100 --> 12:18.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
here, the variety
is bewildering.
12:18.466 --> 12:19.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Bill- Birthdays,
other holidays,
12:20.033 --> 12:24.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
sunflowers and it shows why
Mexico has one of the greatest
12:24.666 --> 12:29.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
diversities of
flowers in the world.
12:29.566 --> 12:32.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Dave- So they have to have,
they call them the alleys,
12:32.733 --> 12:36.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
wide enough for the trucks
to drive all the way through,
12:36.466 --> 12:41.133 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
that there's so many coming in
that if they were just trying
12:41.266 --> 12:44.233 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
to unload them by hand
it would be utter chaos.
12:44.366 --> 12:48.000 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:72.5%
Now, it's just partial chaos.
12:51.100 --> 12:52.833 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The Mercado Jamaica
sells flowers,
12:52.966 --> 12:54.200 align:start position:17.5% line:84.67% size:65%
it's a traditional market.
12:54.366 --> 12:56.533 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
There's another market nearby
that sells music, yes, music.
12:56.666 --> 13:01.166 align:start position:32.5% line:84.67% size:37.5%
Mariachi music.
13:10.433 --> 13:14.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
This is the Plaza Garibaldi,
where Mariachis offer their
13:14.700 --> 13:17.600 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
services and families or people
come by to buy those services.
13:17.733 --> 13:21.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
So if you want to have
Mariachis to come to your
13:21.733 --> 13:23.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
home, you come by,
make arrangements,
13:23.800 --> 13:25.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
you pay the price, they
come to your house.
13:26.100 --> 13:30.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Or you can come here
and pay by the song.
13:30.266 --> 13:33.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The quality of the Mariachi
groups varies enormously.
13:33.533 --> 13:35.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
The very best are
quite expensive,
13:35.633 --> 13:37.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
the very worst are
quite inexpensive,
13:37.966 --> 13:40.266 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:72.5%
but you get what you pay for.
13:40.466 --> 13:44.833 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:27.5%
Price often
determines quality.
13:53.566 --> 13:55.433 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
If music has its market,
so does a traditional,
13:55.566 --> 13:59.000 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:75%
pre-Columbian alcoholic drink.
13:59.166 --> 14:01.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
You can still find what
might qualify as a market for
14:01.500 --> 14:04.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
pulque, a place that
is bringing back
14:04.233 --> 14:07.900 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:72.5%
a nearly forgotten tradition.
14:09.633 --> 14:11.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
So it's not easy to
find a pulqueria.
14:11.633 --> 14:14.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Pulque used to be
everywhere in Mexico City,
14:15.066 --> 14:17.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and it was the drink
of the peasants,
14:17.566 --> 14:19.733 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:72.5%
the working people, men only.
14:19.900 --> 14:22.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
From what I see here,
things might have changed.
14:22.833 --> 14:28.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
My first glass of Pulque
was when I was 15 years old,
14:29.066 --> 14:32.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
it used to be just for
the older generation,
14:32.800 --> 14:37.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
the working class, for those
who hang around pulquerias,
14:37.233 --> 14:41.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
unfortunately places like
these began to disappear.
14:41.533 --> 14:45.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
We needed to find a
way to bring them back.
14:45.866 --> 14:48.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
To bring the young people
here, and that's what we did.
14:49.033 --> 14:51.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
So as you can see our
clientele is made
14:51.700 --> 14:54.900 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:57.5%
up of 90% young people.
14:55.100 --> 14:57.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
From outside, you'd never
know this was a happening
14:57.900 --> 15:01.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
pulqueria, it looks
like a hole in the wall.
15:01.633 --> 15:02.966 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
It continues to be
a traditional drink,
15:03.133 --> 15:05.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
the Mexican youth are
looking for their roots,
15:05.733 --> 15:08.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and what better cultural
identity
15:08.233 --> 15:11.433 align:start position:17.5% line:84.67% size:67.5%
is there other than pulque.
15:11.633 --> 15:14.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
So they come, drink, taste,
and here is the answer.
15:14.866 --> 15:24.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Dave, Bill- Saludos, saludos,
pulque, pulque, pulque
15:24.633 --> 15:27.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
This is extremely nutritious,
its right out of the maguey,
15:27.766 --> 15:30.033 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
nothing else in it,
no additives, no
15:30.166 --> 15:33.500 align:start position:10% line:84.67% size:80%
carbonation, nothing, right out.
15:33.566 --> 15:36.033 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
It sits for about four or five
hours at room temperature and
15:36.200 --> 15:41.566 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
the natural yeast fermented. 1%
alcohol.
15:41.700 --> 15:47.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Pulque is delicious, it
is life for us Mexicans.
15:47.500 --> 15:52.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
When it arrives here, it
comes in its natural state.
15:52.466 --> 15:56.866 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
We are responsible for mixing
in the different flavors.
15:57.000 --> 16:02.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
So here in the Duelista we
have all 45 different flavors.
16:02.400 --> 16:06.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The Duelista has been open
for more than 100 years.
16:06.400 --> 16:10.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
It was founded
in October 1912.
16:10.833 --> 16:18.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Not far away is one of the
stranger markets in Mexico City.
16:18.333 --> 16:25.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Not far away is one of the
stranger markets in Mexico City.
16:25.166 --> 16:30.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
One that is not necessarily
approved by city authorities.
16:33.400 --> 16:35.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The Sonoran Market is best
known as being a witch's market.
16:36.100 --> 16:39.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
People throng here in spite
general frowning by the church
16:40.000 --> 16:43.000 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
because they come here seeking
things that in normal life,
16:43.133 --> 16:47.266 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
normal religion
they cannot find.
16:47.433 --> 16:49.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
That includes spiritual
cures, herbs, spells, smoke,
16:49.933 --> 16:55.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
all sorts of things that they
believe will help them get
16:55.333 --> 16:57.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
through life in a way that
they couldn't without that
16:57.833 --> 17:02.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
additional power that
they hope to find here.
17:03.733 --> 17:05.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
These potions help with
cleansing, good luck,
17:06.066 --> 17:09.133 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
money problems,
jealousy, good business,
17:09.300 --> 17:17.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
matters of the heart, and
to create opportunities.
17:17.900 --> 17:23.166 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
These here we use to ask for
money, for material items,
17:23.333 --> 17:29.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
for things we need, that's
what this is used for.
17:29.666 --> 17:31.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Dave- So the Mercado
Sonora, pure and simply,
17:31.633 --> 17:33.466 align:start position:25% line:84.67% size:50%
is a witch's market.
17:33.600 --> 17:35.266 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Religious themes throughout,
but pagan as much or more than
17:35.466 --> 17:40.200 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
catholic, it's
abundant, and the place
17:40.400 --> 17:42.933 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:70%
gets all kinds of attention.
17:43.133 --> 17:44.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
It's gotta cause the clergy
to tear out their hair.
17:45.133 --> 17:48.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Bill- You can come here and
whatever your problem is,
17:48.733 --> 17:51.033 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
resolve it by talking
to the right saint,
17:51.233 --> 17:57.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
or the right African religion,
or the right herb salesman,
17:57.200 --> 18:03.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
to find out what will
deal with your problem.
18:03.733 --> 18:05.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Right across the aisle we see
the
18:05.766 --> 18:08.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
same basic catholic saints
that...
18:08.400 --> 18:10.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.67% size:65%
Dave- On the other side...
18:11.066 --> 18:14.833 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Bill- And the other
side it's home remedies,
18:14.966 --> 18:16.566 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
what will work
in the family...
18:16.700 --> 18:18.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Dave-Things that
can cast spells,
18:18.733 --> 18:20.733 align:start position:20% line:84.67% size:60%
ways to remove spells...
18:20.900 --> 18:24.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Bill- That's right, and here
we have Santo Muerte
18:24.600 --> 18:26.733 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:77.5%
which is an unofficial saint...
18:26.900 --> 18:28.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Dave- Of death.
Bill- Of death.
18:28.600 --> 18:32.133 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Dave- You know, this devotion
to Santo Muerte is spreading
18:32.333 --> 18:35.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
like wildfire, this would not
have been here 20 years ago
18:35.800 --> 18:38.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Bill- No, maybe not
even 15 years ago.
18:38.533 --> 18:40.766 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
People don't know
quite how it started,
18:40.933 --> 18:42.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
but it's erupted and
it's all over Mexico,
18:43.000 --> 18:47.533 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
but especially in Mexico City
and Tepito in some communities.
18:47.700 --> 18:51.266 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
I think it's like any other,
the worship of any other
18:51.433 --> 18:54.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
saint, and in this case it's
one that looks at all the
18:54.766 --> 18:57.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
horrible things one might have
done or that happen in life
18:57.866 --> 19:00.966 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:75%
and the redemption from those.
19:01.066 --> 19:03.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Dave- And death is
the redeeming feature.
19:03.766 --> 19:05.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
So the image here
is the skull,
19:05.666 --> 19:09.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
which means all real
life has been removed,
19:09.433 --> 19:12.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
particularly the eyes, which
are the glimpse into the human
19:12.900 --> 19:14.000 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
soul, so it's just
bereft of human
19:14.166 --> 19:16.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
characteristics, except the bare
bones.
19:17.100 --> 19:24.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
So this place must be well
known because people from all
19:24.000 --> 19:30.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
So this place must be well
known because people from all
19:30.833 --> 19:33.133 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
nationalities, from
Cuba, Colombia, Brazil,
19:33.266 --> 19:35.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
the United States come
specifically here to this
19:35.233 --> 19:38.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
store to get a hold of
objects that pertain
19:39.133 --> 19:42.266 align:start position:17.5% line:84.67% size:65%
to that Santeria religion.
19:42.433 --> 19:44.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
So he specializes, in this
store, in the Santeria,
19:44.800 --> 19:47.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
which is all African
origin, and there
19:48.100 --> 19:51.900 align:start position:20% line:84.67% size:62.5%
is quite a variety of it.
19:52.066 --> 19:54.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
These are soup cradles, but
they cover them with a special
19:54.300 --> 19:56.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
kind of bead depending on
what kind of saint you want.
19:56.366 --> 19:59.766 align:start position:20% line:84.67% size:62.5%
So each one is different.
19:59.933 --> 20:06.766 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
So this is Chios,
one of the saints
20:06.933 --> 20:10.200 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:70%
form the, of African origin.
20:10.366 --> 20:13.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
So we've got here
some Christian saints.
20:13.666 --> 20:18.166 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
There's no fine line between
the formal Catholicism and
20:18.300 --> 20:20.666 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
native Catholicism
and Santeria,
20:20.800 --> 20:24.366 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:57.5%
the primitive religion.
20:24.533 --> 20:28.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
They don't draw the line;
the clergy often does.
20:29.533 --> 20:32.233 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Another way of looking at this
is that it still represents a
20:32.333 --> 20:34.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
sort of native rejection of
everything European because
20:34.866 --> 20:41.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
the individual religion
that people had prior to the
20:41.200 --> 20:43.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
arrival of the Spaniards was
kicked out by the force and
20:43.366 --> 20:47.500 align:start position:12.5% line:84.67% size:75%
the power of the white people.
20:47.600 --> 20:50.400 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
And so the, so this is still
a rebellion 500 years later,
20:50.533 --> 20:53.066 align:start position:22.5% line:84.67% size:57.5%
against that authority.
20:56.266 --> 20:58.200 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Finally, just a
few blocks away,
20:58.366 --> 21:00.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
in one of the seedier
areas of downtown is
21:00.733 --> 21:04.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Mexico City's flea market. It's
well named.
21:04.566 --> 21:14.533 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Dave- This is La
Lagunilla market;
21:14.833 --> 21:18.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
we've been to a flower market,
we've been to a witch's
21:18.866 --> 21:21.100 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
market, this is
unlike anything else.
21:21.300 --> 21:25.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Bill- This is the, one of the
oldest markets in Mexico City,
21:25.733 --> 21:28.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
it's known as the
thieves' market,
21:28.433 --> 21:30.166 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
or it used to be at
least, where if you,
21:30.300 --> 21:32.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
something was stolen
from your house,
21:32.666 --> 21:34.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
you could come on the weekend,
and find it in one of these
21:34.833 --> 21:40.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
shops here, and buy it back
if you really liked it.
21:41.966 --> 21:43.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Bill- We're in
Tepito colonial,
21:43.600 --> 21:45.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and this is one of the famous
popular neighborhoods of
21:45.966 --> 21:48.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Mexico City, where the
residents are all known for
21:48.966 --> 21:51.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
being very tough, tough
business negotiators,
21:51.700 --> 21:55.000 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Mexico's boxers
come from Tepito,
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they resist the city government
and the national government.
21:59.766 --> 22:02.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
These are independent,
tough minded, entrepreneurs.
22:03.033 --> 22:06.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Dave- If you know what
you want you can find it,
22:06.266 --> 22:07.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
but if you don't know what
you want you can also find it.
22:07.733 --> 22:09.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Bill- But as you walk
by, you remember
22:09.966 --> 22:11.466 align:start position:17.5% line:84.67% size:67.5%
things from your childhood.
22:11.600 --> 22:12.866 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:70%
Dave- Yeah, electric trains.
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Bill- Electric trains
are just fantastic.
22:14.566 --> 22:15.733 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Dave- Right next to
the pencil sharpeners.
22:15.900 --> 22:20.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Bill- It's like walking
down memory lane here.
22:21.933 --> 22:23.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Dave- If you look on
the other side, then,
22:23.666 --> 22:25.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
its hard to describe
what we're finding,
22:25.600 --> 22:26.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
but there's a lot
of limbs here.
22:27.100 --> 22:28.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Then the antiques
part just feels,
22:29.100 --> 22:31.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
you'll find new stuff and
next to it something out
22:31.433 --> 22:34.733 align:start position:17.5% line:84.67% size:65%
of the nineteenth century.
22:34.933 --> 22:36.400 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Bill- No matter how
old things are, Dave,
22:36.566 --> 22:38.233 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
that we're looking at,
if we look back here,
22:38.400 --> 22:44.033 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
there are recurrent themes. And
here's Frida.
22:44.200 --> 22:46.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
It doesn't matter that
we're at a flea market.
22:46.333 --> 22:51.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Inside the La Lagunilla
Market is a major supermarket.
22:51.333 --> 22:54.333 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
As I was coming up
a lady passed me on
22:54.466 --> 22:57.066 align:start position:20% line:84.67% size:60%
a bicycle with her pack.
22:57.233 --> 22:59.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Her pack consists of one,
two, three, four, five, six,
23:00.100 --> 23:06.400 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
seven dogs, she said to them
stay, and they have stayed.
23:06.533 --> 23:10.000 align:start position:40% line:84.67% size:20%
Hi guys.
23:10.200 --> 23:15.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
This booth is owned and
operated by the great grandson
23:15.833 --> 23:20.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
of Posada, the immensely
popular, world renowned,
23:20.633 --> 23:28.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
engraver, muralist, painter,
who really made the images of
23:28.366 --> 23:34.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
day of the dead come alive
everywhere around the world.
23:35.266 --> 23:37.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
So you had in your house the
works that your grandfather
23:37.333 --> 23:39.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
created, so now here how
do you feel about all this?
23:39.966 --> 23:42.200 align:start position:32.5% line:84.67% size:35%
How do I feel?
23:42.400 --> 23:45.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Well I am very thankful
and I am amazed at these
23:45.466 --> 23:50.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
extraordinary work during the
presidency of Porfirio Díaz.
23:51.066 --> 23:57.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
An incredible collection
of engravings and leaflets
23:57.800 --> 24:02.033 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
covering different subjects,
all kinds of new items,
24:02.233 --> 24:07.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
murders, cooking items,
children's theatre,
24:07.566 --> 24:15.066 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:70%
things about bulls, ballads.
24:15.233 --> 24:17.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
So you mean things about
everyday life symbolizing
24:17.233 --> 24:20.400 align:start position:17.5% line:84.67% size:67.5%
larger themes in our world.
24:40.933 --> 24:43.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
For many Mexicans the markets
of the capitol city represent
24:43.666 --> 24:46.900 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:47.5%
a novelty, a quaint
relic of the past.
24:47.000 --> 24:50.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
So this is again used only
in the Santeria ceremonies;
24:51.233 --> 24:53.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
but for those who cherish
the ancient history of this
24:53.566 --> 24:55.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
nation, they represent
a remarkable
24:56.100 --> 24:58.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
continuation of a vibrant
tradition.
24:58.900 --> 25:02.066 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Join us next time
In the Americas
25:02.300 --> 25:03.966 align:start position:25% line:84.67% size:52.5%
with me, David Yetman
25:04.133 --> 25:08.633 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
The interior of Brazil's state
of Pernambuco is a semi-arid
25:08.766 --> 25:10.466 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:70%
landscape called the sertao.
25:10.666 --> 25:14.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Far inland from the cities,
its inhabitants struggle to
25:14.833 --> 25:18.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
survive severe and frequent
drought (those tracks are only
25:19.033 --> 25:22.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:62.5%
going to get bigger) they
rebuild against greedy
25:22.800 --> 25:24.533 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:32.5%
landlords and
indifferent governments.
25:24.700 --> 25:29.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
We will travel from one end
of Pernambuco to the other.
25:30.266 --> 25:35.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Dave- Every market seems to
have to have its own patron
25:35.400 --> 25:38.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
saint, and Plaza
Girabaldi is no different.
25:38.666 --> 25:43.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Bill- Well Santa Cecelia
is the saint of music and
25:43.333 --> 25:51.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
musicians, and when musicians
come and make their first
25:51.633 --> 25:53.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:72.5%
sale, the first thing they do
is take the receipts and come
25:53.366 --> 25:57.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and deposit them right
there for Santa Cecelia,
25:57.566 --> 26:05.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and cross themselves
as you would imagine.
26:07.466 --> 26:10.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Funding for In the Americas
with David Yetman was provided
26:10.633 --> 26:20.600 align:start position:30% line:84.67% size:40%
by Agnese Haury.
26:22.066 --> 26:23.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Copies of this and other
episodes of In the Americas
26:24.100 --> 26:26.233 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:77.5%
with David Yetman are available
from the Southwest Center.
26:26.366 --> 26:32.800 align:start position:15% line:84.67% size:72.5%
To order call 1-800-937-8632.
26:32.966 --> 26:34.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Please mention the episode
number and the program title.
26:34.766 --> 26:38.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Please be sure to visit
us at intheamericas.com
26:38.233 --> 26:43.166 align:start position:25% line:84.67% size:50%
or intheamericas.org