WEBVTT 00:01.266 --> 00:02.766 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% - [Favia] When I see rock, I see happiness. 00:02.766 --> 00:06.100 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% I never thought I would have this sort of relationship 00:06.100 --> 00:07.300 align:left position:27.5% line:89% size:62.5% with the outdoors. 00:07.300 --> 00:08.633 align:left position:17.5% line:89% size:72.5% - Rock climbing is a sport 00:08.633 --> 00:11.166 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% that tests your body and your mind. 00:11.166 --> 00:12.333 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% In the last few years, 00:12.333 --> 00:14.166 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% rock climbing has entered the mainstream, 00:14.166 --> 00:17.333 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% and for the first time in 2020, it was an Olympic sport. 00:17.333 --> 00:19.266 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% This explosion in popularity means 00:19.266 --> 00:22.233 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% that more people are trying it than ever before. 00:22.233 --> 00:23.466 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% But that doesn't mean 00:23.466 --> 00:24.766 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% that everyone has access to the sport. 00:24.766 --> 00:27.133 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% - There was a time that I didn't go for a year 00:27.133 --> 00:28.800 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% because I was getting so many threats. 00:28.800 --> 00:30.966 align:left position:15% line:89% size:75% Everyone deserves to be safe 00:30.966 --> 00:32.833 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% and feel safe when they're climbing. 00:32.833 --> 00:34.600 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - [Baratunde] There are folks in the climbing community 00:34.600 --> 00:36.633 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% who are dedicated to making the sport better 00:36.633 --> 00:38.433 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% and more accessible for everyone, 00:38.433 --> 00:39.933 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% and they're doing it around the country, 00:39.933 --> 00:41.833 align:left position:25% line:89% size:65% one climb at a time. 00:41.833 --> 00:44.433 align:left position:32.5% line:89% size:57.5% (gentle music) 00:47.100 --> 00:48.633 align:left position:25% line:89% size:65% This is Favia Dubyk. 00:48.633 --> 00:50.266 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% She's a professional rock climber 00:50.266 --> 00:51.933 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% and has been bouldering for a decade. 00:51.933 --> 00:53.233 align:left position:20% line:89% size:70% When she's not climbing, 00:53.233 --> 00:54.933 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% she's a physician, coach and writer. 00:54.933 --> 00:55.966 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% - This is engaging my lower back. 00:55.966 --> 00:56.966 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% - [Baratunde] But on the rocks 00:56.966 --> 00:58.466 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% is where she most wants to be. 00:58.466 --> 01:02.033 align:left position:17.5% line:83% size:72.5% - [Favia] I found climbing just through luck. 01:02.033 --> 01:04.966 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% I didn't know rock climbing was a thing my entire life. 01:04.966 --> 01:08.533 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% I tried it and I fell in love instantly. 01:08.533 --> 01:10.800 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% - So what part of that first experience rose 01:10.800 --> 01:12.533 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% to the level of instant love for you? 01:12.533 --> 01:17.533 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% - I love the sound of my shoe and my hands hitting the rock, 01:18.700 --> 01:20.633 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% but there's nothing like the puzzle. 01:22.066 --> 01:25.366 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% In climbing, there's lots of pieces to that puzzle. 01:25.366 --> 01:26.700 align:left position:32.5% line:89% size:57.5% One is safety. 01:26.700 --> 01:29.233 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% The climbing part is the best part of the puzzle 01:29.233 --> 01:33.133 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% because there's many ways to do a climb, 01:33.133 --> 01:35.500 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% and you have to figure it out. 01:35.500 --> 01:38.733 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% I love that sense of there's only one thing 01:38.733 --> 01:40.400 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% that's important at that time, 01:40.400 --> 01:42.066 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% and it's making the next move. 01:42.066 --> 01:44.000 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% That's the only thing that counts. 01:44.000 --> 01:46.500 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% And I have to be very confident 01:46.500 --> 01:49.633 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% and sure about every movement I do 01:49.633 --> 01:51.700 align:left position:15% line:89% size:75% because my life is at stake. 01:53.033 --> 01:55.966 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% The fear, the excitement, I love all of it. 01:58.866 --> 02:02.100 align:left position:17.5% line:83% size:72.5% I did have to take a break 'cause I was diagnosed 02:02.100 --> 02:05.466 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% with advanced stage cancer in 2012, 02:05.466 --> 02:08.200 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% and I said, "If you survive this, 02:08.200 --> 02:09.766 align:left position:15% line:89% size:75% that's what you're gonna do. 02:09.766 --> 02:11.066 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% You're gonna get back on the rock." 02:11.066 --> 02:12.366 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% And that's what I've been doing. 02:12.366 --> 02:15.733 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% - What a promise to make and keep with yourself. 02:15.733 --> 02:16.633 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% - [Favia] It's simple. 02:16.633 --> 02:18.866 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% I think joy brings more of the, 02:18.866 --> 02:23.200 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% the deep, deep happiness I feel when I climb. 02:23.200 --> 02:25.266 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - [Baratunde] And for hardcore climbers like Favia, 02:25.266 --> 02:27.100 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% even though she does it as a solo sport, 02:27.100 --> 02:28.600 align:left position:17.5% line:89% size:72.5% it's also about community, 02:28.600 --> 02:29.933 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% bonding with other climbers 02:29.933 --> 02:31.100 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% and being with other people 02:31.100 --> 02:33.533 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% who are also obsessed with rocks. 02:33.533 --> 02:36.400 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% - [Favia] Rock climbing requires trust. 02:36.400 --> 02:40.066 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% I'm here to trust that my spotter will catch me. 02:40.066 --> 02:41.733 align:left position:27.5% line:89% size:62.5% I started noticing 02:41.733 --> 02:45.400 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% that people wouldn't even recognize my presence 02:45.400 --> 02:46.866 align:left position:32.5% line:89% size:57.5% in the group. 02:46.866 --> 02:49.200 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% Well, either you get ignored or sometimes it's been hostile. 02:49.200 --> 02:50.733 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% How can you even trust 02:50.733 --> 02:52.933 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% if you're not even feeling welcomed in your community? 02:52.933 --> 02:55.433 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - [Baratunde] Rock climbing got its start in the 1880s, 02:55.433 --> 02:56.866 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% and as the sport grew, 02:56.866 --> 02:58.966 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% the ways you could participate grew as well. 02:58.966 --> 03:01.000 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% But despite the diversity of types of climbing, 03:01.000 --> 03:03.133 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% there's still a stubborn lack of diversity 03:03.133 --> 03:05.200 align:left position:30% line:83% size:60% when it comes to type of climber. 03:05.200 --> 03:06.666 align:left position:15% line:89% size:75% A recent report found out 03:06.666 --> 03:09.533 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% that of the 7.7 million climbers in the US, 03:09.533 --> 03:12.533 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% less than 15% identify as a person of color. 03:12.533 --> 03:16.333 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% - [Favia] It has definitely been a big source of turmoil 03:16.333 --> 03:17.666 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% in my climbing career. 03:17.666 --> 03:20.433 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% I check the parking lot for the vehicles. 03:20.433 --> 03:23.100 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% And so that way someone can keep track 03:23.100 --> 03:25.300 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% and have a suspect list. (laughs) 03:25.300 --> 03:29.266 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% But this is part of my ritual as a Black female. 03:29.266 --> 03:31.600 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% - Wow. Thank you for sharing that. 03:31.600 --> 03:33.500 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% You're peppering it in with a little laughter, 03:33.500 --> 03:34.766 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% not 'cause it's funny, I assume, 03:34.766 --> 03:36.866 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% 'cause it's absurd and painful. 03:36.866 --> 03:38.033 align:left position:42.5% line:89% size:47.5% - Yes. 03:38.033 --> 03:39.300 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% - Now this is hardly a new problem. 03:39.300 --> 03:41.266 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% For many years, keeping folks of color away 03:41.266 --> 03:43.966 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% from outdoor spaces, that was the law. 03:43.966 --> 03:45.866 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% National parks in the Jim Crow South, 03:45.866 --> 03:47.800 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% including Shenandoah National Park 03:47.800 --> 03:49.666 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% and the Great Smokey Mountains National Park 03:49.666 --> 03:53.666 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% were segregated spaces until the Civil Rights Act of 1964. 03:53.666 --> 03:56.166 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% - For my first few years as a climber, 03:56.166 --> 03:58.966 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% I just didn't know any spaces. 03:58.966 --> 04:00.866 align:left position:15% line:89% size:75% I didn't know any people. 04:00.866 --> 04:03.233 align:left position:15% line:89% size:75% I was the only Black person. 04:03.233 --> 04:05.933 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% Felt like, oh, there's probably one per state or something. 04:05.933 --> 04:07.566 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% - Today, public outdoor spaces 04:07.566 --> 04:09.433 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% are still overwhelmingly white. 04:09.433 --> 04:11.833 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% According to the National Park Service's own data, 04:11.833 --> 04:14.900 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% 77% of all visitors to national parks are white. 04:14.900 --> 04:16.900 align:left position:27.5% line:89% size:62.5% Only 6% are Black. 04:16.900 --> 04:19.500 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% There's also a long tradition of climbing routes 04:19.500 --> 04:22.100 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% being named by the first ascensionist. 04:22.100 --> 04:23.733 align:left position:27.5% line:89% size:62.5% - To name a route, 04:23.733 --> 04:26.333 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% it's named by the first person who climbs it, 04:26.333 --> 04:29.200 align:left position:17.5% line:83% size:72.5% who successfully goes from the bottom to the top. 04:29.200 --> 04:31.666 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - [Baratunde] The names often reflect the rock formation 04:31.666 --> 04:32.566 align:left position:30% line:89% size:60% or the location. 04:32.566 --> 04:34.266 align:left position:20% line:89% size:70% Think of The North Face. 04:34.266 --> 04:36.700 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% Others even reference pop culture. 04:36.700 --> 04:38.366 align:left position:15% line:89% size:75% "Sharknado," for example. 04:38.366 --> 04:40.066 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% And then there are route names 04:40.066 --> 04:43.933 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% I'll generously refer to as unwelcoming. 04:43.933 --> 04:48.033 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% Tar Baby, Panty Wall, The Whipping Post, 04:48.033 --> 04:51.100 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% there are a lot more like these all over the country. 04:51.100 --> 04:53.666 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% Some are so bad I can't really say them here. 04:53.666 --> 04:57.833 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - A lot of places where I climb, there are racist names, 04:57.833 --> 05:00.666 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% but there's really, really more sexist names. 05:02.066 --> 05:04.233 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - Are there any safe-for-work examples you can share? 05:04.233 --> 05:05.500 align:left position:32.5% line:89% size:57.5% - I think so. 05:05.500 --> 05:06.966 align:left position:20% line:89% size:70% - [Baratunde] Go for it. 05:06.966 --> 05:11.800 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - Pumped Full of Semen, Daily Dick Dose. (chuckles) 05:11.800 --> 05:14.133 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% - (sighs) It's so exhausting. 05:14.133 --> 05:18.266 align:left position:20% line:89% size:70% (upbeat rhythmic music) 05:18.266 --> 05:19.733 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% - [Favia] Welcome to "Rock Matters." 05:19.733 --> 05:23.066 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% On today's episode, we're going to discuss the Olympics 05:23.066 --> 05:24.300 align:left position:27.5% line:89% size:62.5% - [Molly] Rooting, 05:24.300 --> 05:25.900 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% which is a really cool training technique. 05:25.900 --> 05:27.233 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% - [Baratunde] Climbers like Favia 05:27.233 --> 05:30.400 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% are making sure everyone has access to the sport. 05:30.400 --> 05:34.300 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - When I first started, I was just trying to survive. 05:34.300 --> 05:37.966 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% I was out there alone trying to learn climbing, 05:37.966 --> 05:39.333 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% learn the outdoors. 05:39.333 --> 05:41.633 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% - Favia, what's your thoughts on the kneebar pad? 05:41.633 --> 05:44.966 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - [Favia] First, let's discuss what a kneebar pad is. 05:44.966 --> 05:49.066 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% And so I help other people climb better in a safe community, 05:49.066 --> 05:51.633 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% and I travel the country teaching those clinics. 05:53.666 --> 05:55.633 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% - Climbers have also been sounding the alarm 05:55.633 --> 05:59.100 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% that routes with names like Aryan Race have to change. 05:59.100 --> 06:01.133 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% - There are online guidebooks 06:01.133 --> 06:03.366 align:left position:30% line:83% size:60% that we now have flagging systems 06:03.366 --> 06:05.900 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% that we can say like, "Hey, that's inappropriate." 06:05.900 --> 06:09.200 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% But even on our own, if you can't change it, 06:09.200 --> 06:11.700 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% you try to abbreviate it so you don't have to say 06:11.700 --> 06:13.966 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% that really inappropriate thing all the time. 06:13.966 --> 06:15.633 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% - It's like saying "the N word" 06:15.633 --> 06:17.033 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% instead of saying the N word. 06:17.033 --> 06:19.833 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% - [Favia] Exactly. So that's what we're doing now 06:19.833 --> 06:22.700 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% until books can be republished. 06:22.700 --> 06:24.233 align:left position:17.5% line:89% size:72.5% - [Baratunde] And in 2021, 06:24.233 --> 06:26.800 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% 50 offensive route names in West Virginia were changed, 06:26.800 --> 06:28.200 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% including Aryan Race. 06:28.200 --> 06:30.133 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% The new names were published in the new addition 06:30.133 --> 06:32.633 align:left position:17.5% line:83% size:72.5% of the climbing guidebook, "New River Rock." 06:32.633 --> 06:35.800 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% The Whipping Post route name in Colorado was also renamed 06:35.800 --> 06:37.033 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% to Black is Beautiful. 06:37.033 --> 06:39.200 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% For the ones that have been changed, 06:39.200 --> 06:43.666 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% I assume the changing the name didn't destroy the rock. 06:43.666 --> 06:45.566 align:left position:22.5% line:89% size:67.5% - Exactly, exactly. 06:45.566 --> 06:49.533 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% When I speak up about racism, I get more back. 06:49.533 --> 06:53.733 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% So I think that's why these names just go unthought of, 06:53.733 --> 06:55.966 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% 'cause people are too afraid, 06:55.966 --> 06:57.466 align:left position:15% line:89% size:75% don't know how to fix it, 06:57.466 --> 07:00.233 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% and then there's the few that really wanna stick with it. 07:00.233 --> 07:01.600 align:left position:20% line:89% size:70% - [Baratunde] Meanwhile, 07:01.600 --> 07:03.400 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% organizations like Brown Girls Climb, 07:03.400 --> 07:07.100 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% Flash Foxy and Melanin Base Camp are raising awareness 07:07.100 --> 07:08.966 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% of the discrimination within climbing, 07:08.966 --> 07:12.100 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% while also creating supportive and safe environments, 07:12.100 --> 07:13.866 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% not just for climbers of color, 07:13.866 --> 07:17.100 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% but for women and the LGBTQ community as well. 07:17.100 --> 07:19.600 align:left position:25% line:83% size:65% - We're all fighting the same fight, 07:19.600 --> 07:22.933 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% and it's for us to come together and to... 07:22.933 --> 07:26.266 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% We can talk about our experiences 07:26.266 --> 07:29.800 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% without having to explain why that's racism. 07:29.800 --> 07:31.966 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% That's the most exhausting part. 07:31.966 --> 07:33.966 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% So, the people of color who are climbing 07:33.966 --> 07:37.266 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% or the Black people who are out there, just showing up, 07:37.266 --> 07:39.233 align:left position:12.5% line:89% size:77.5% it's helping other people see 07:39.233 --> 07:42.266 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% that it's for everyone and everybody. 07:43.766 --> 07:46.133 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% - [Baratunde] In the face of such hostility, 07:46.133 --> 07:49.633 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% what is so worth it for you to keep going back? 07:49.633 --> 07:51.100 align:left position:15% line:89% size:75% - [Favia] I love climbing 07:51.100 --> 07:53.366 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% and I wasn't gonna let them take that joy from me. 07:53.366 --> 07:57.266 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% I definitely wasn't gonna lose the thing that wakes me up, 07:57.266 --> 07:58.533 align:left position:25% line:89% size:65% that keeps me going. 07:58.533 --> 07:59.733 align:left position:25% line:89% size:65% Then they would win, 07:59.733 --> 08:03.100 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% and I'm not gonna allow for that. (chuckles) 08:03.100 --> 08:05.000 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% - [Baratunde] I've been a Black person 08:05.000 --> 08:07.766 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% in very non-black, very white spaces, 08:07.766 --> 08:11.300 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% I've been a poor person in very wealthy spaces, 08:11.300 --> 08:14.033 align:left position:27.5% line:83% size:62.5% and I know that unwelcome feeling. 08:14.033 --> 08:17.333 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% I also have felt the sense of fear 08:17.333 --> 08:20.300 align:left position:12.5% line:83% size:77.5% from those who've historically participated in the space, 08:20.300 --> 08:22.933 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% that I'm there to take something from you. 08:22.933 --> 08:25.200 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% I hope if there's someone out there who's afraid, 08:25.200 --> 08:28.666 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% that it's really not about stopping people 08:28.666 --> 08:31.300 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% from engaging in their joy and in their sport 08:31.300 --> 08:33.033 align:left position:15% line:83% size:75% and in their relationship with the outdoors. 08:33.033 --> 08:35.166 align:left position:22.5% line:83% size:67.5% It's about making that relationship possible 08:35.166 --> 08:36.166 align:left position:30% line:89% size:60% for more people. 08:43.133 --> 08:45.833 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% - [Onlooker] Wow, that's crazy.